Saturn - Aura :: 2009 - Door Locks Start Locking And Unlocking Rapidly
May 23, 2016
Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
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My drivers door won't unlock and lock sometimes. It goes off and on. And it's starting to do it more often. Sometimes the beep won't make a sound too when I lock it. Only locks with manually putting the key in. I've tried to use my other key but it didn't work.
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I'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
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My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
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The issue began around July/August of this year. It sounds as if the car locks are attempting to lock and unlock while I am driving. It is a clicking sound. The doors will automatically lock when the car is going at 10 mph - this is normal. The locking/unlocking sound sometimes will start within 5 minutes and other times within 30 minutes - it is totally random. This does not happen every day but it is definitely monthly and has lasted anywhere from 3 days to 10 days. The other noise associated with it comes from the console on the passenger side. It is a clicking sound. This sound happens during the locking/unlocking sound but on intermittent cycles. The doors never become unlocked while I am driving. I purchased the car new.
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My car has been running great and last week when I turned it off it would not start back up. I checked the battery, starter, alternator, and all the fuses and still nothing. It cranks over fine but I have no power to the radio or door locks. What can be the problem?
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All the sudden last night I looked outside and saw several lights on my car turning on for no reason. My head and tail lights, my interior lights. I tried turning them off with the key in and out but that did not stop them from going off. they stayed on until the battery drained. Another on going problem is neither of the remotes with new battery's will work rarely. To unlock truck, or doors and when they do work not all the doors will lock or unlock with the remotes when they occasionally work.
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This afternoon, I was trying to get a sticker off of my wife's rear window (2009 Saturn). I put some goo goneon a paper towel and put it over the sticker and went inside. The car was in the garage, and I closed the doorand went into the house.
About an hour later, I went to check on the progress. What I found was the entire rear window was shattered. Could it have possibly gotten too hot in such a short time frame to cause that? I will add that about a monthago, the car was in an accident and hit just behind the passenger side rear tire (it pulled the whole rear bumperoff.
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I have a 2009 Saturn aura and what's goin on is when I apply my brakes the car hesitates a sec then slightly jerks before moving on. It doesn't do it any other time and it will happen no matter what gear or speed I am in/going. Only when the brakes are applied......?? I just don't get it. It smooth as ever just as long as I don't touch the bake
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My FOB is only unlocking my door. It's not locking doors. Thought it might be the FOB battery. I changed it and still no locking, just unlocking.
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My rear right door wont unlock with the key-fob. When you click unlock you will see the lock "twitch" but not open. In order to unlock it you must manually re lock the doors and unlock via the buttons on the driver or passenger side.
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I have a strange problem with my front left (driver door) doorlock. I've changed the speaker, so i hade to remove the door panel. When I try to reassemble the door panel and the door lock I have some problems. I get everything in place, but the problem is that the door lock gets jammed. When I only close the door (not locking the door) I can open the door. But when I lock the door, then unlock it, I don't manage to open the door. I then have to fast pull the outside two times real hard, and then the door opens. I have discovered the problem. The door seems fine when I remove this cable: But if I remove the cable, I can't open the door from the outside.
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I have a 2005 GLI which seems to have an issue with intermittent door locks. Sometimes when I press the unlock/lock button they will unlock/lock, other times they won't. It also seems to be random as to which doors will unlock/lock. Opening them from inside works just fine.
The dealer said that the door lock control modules probably need to be replaced. I remember seeing a while back that there was a way to fix these as the problem really was some solder within the control module.
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I'm slowly reading through the ES-350 manual, picking and choosing parts to read. There are several 'Personalized Preferences' that I've noted down and will have addressed at my 1st month service.
I noticed on pg. 21 of the manual that there are settings to set and cancel the door-locking/unlocking functions. These functions are also mentioned in the 'Personalized Preferences' section, so there is overlap here (on paper anyways).
Anyways I tried a couple of times to follow the instructions on pg. 21 to disable the door locking and unlocking when the car is placed in Park and Neutral.
It didn't work for me. The instructions aren't all that clear to me, nor of what they are supposed to accomplish. I'd like to not have the doors lock when I place the shift out of Park and not have the doors unlock when I place the shift into Park.
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2001 ford explorer sport trac. Power door locks lock from both sides but will not unlock from either side, have tried new switches and lookd for broken wires in all four door jams.
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Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
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My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
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I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
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I have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
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Had the two batteries disconnected on the 2002 Excursion (7.3). Once reconnected, the door actuators all repeatedly lock. They all click every 5 - 10 seconds. Sometimes they click every second for about 5 seconds.
I can't actuate ANY of the door locks on the truck, the switches seem dead. Also, the "door open" LED in the dash is lit. The "THEFT" light is blinking fast as well.
I've disconnected the batteries again several times to see if I can reset whatever is going on. I am keeping a spare key in my pocket because I will get locked out otherwise.
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I drive a 2009 Elantra SE. We have not been using our key fobs for years. We just prefer to open the car with a key and lock it using the auto door lock button in inside of vehicle when we exit. When we shut the door after locking it in this way, the hazards blink once.
We just moved to an area with more petty property crime. Does the above procedure enable the anti-theft alarm, or do you have to use the fob? If I recall, locking the car with the fob causes the hazards to also blink, but the horn also sounds if you press the fob twice.
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