Saturn - Astra :: 2008 - Strange Intermittent Knocking / Tapping
Oct 18, 2012
I have a problem with my 2008 Saturn Astra hatchback with about 75,000 miles. So far this has stumped every mechanic I've taken it to. They all want to have the car for a few hours to drive it around and diagnose the problem.... which I don't want to do just yet.
Sometimes when I'm slowing down, I hear a quiet tapping/knocking coming from somewhere. The back right maybe? It's very quick, almost like a card stuck in the spokes of a bike wheel.
The strange part, though, is that the frequency doesn't change as I slow down. Whether I'm going 10 mph or 20, the frequency is exactly the same. Even stranger, sometimes it's not even there.
Some other things that might be useful: I have a manual. Pushing in the clutch doesn't change the sound when it's there. Neither does hitting the brakes. I did have a blowout on the highway about six months ago (the back right tire....which is why I first thought that's where the sound was coming from), but the sound has only appeared in the last few weeks.
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My fiance's 2008 Saturn Astra no longer has AC. The compressor does nothing when AC is enabled. You can hear the engine bog slightly when the button is pressed so /SOMETHING/ is happening, but the compressor never budges. My first instinct was to check the freon so I picked up a kit to recharge the system. Pressure was 60psi on the upper and lower ports. I saw some people commenting about blower relay's and resistors. The HAV system and blower work...fine minus AC.
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The car in question is a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback. Just had the heads resurfaced and new gaskets, and timing belt. Runs great. Acceleration is good, stays cool. However, it has developed an intermittent knock/tapping. it sounds like its coming from the top end of motor. I added Marvel Mystery and the noise left for about a week but came back. Is this the beginning of the end? Or could it be a small problem involving the lifters/followers/valves?
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I have a 2008 Saturn Astra and there is a high pitched squeeling sound when i accelerate from a stop. It has been happening since last year but seems to have gotten worse. It only happens in the summer time. It squeels only when accelerating at low speeds. if I accelerate quickly the sound goes away. but will come back if i come to a stop and accelerate normally again. It doesnt start from 0 RPMs but only at low rpm. It only happens when I first turn on the car and accelerate. If I have been driving for a few minutes and then accelerate from a stop it doesn't make any unusual sound. It happens in reverse as well as drive.
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Just got my 2013 CPO GS350 and love it. I did notice this morning a tapping or ticking noise, like a diesel engine would make, as the car warmed up. Anything to be concerned about or can that be normal for a GS? Also, are there any recalls or TSBs I should check into for this car?
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I have a Manual 2003 Mitsubishi OZ Rally Lancer. She was sitting for awhile due to the main cylinder causing issues for the clutch, which is now fixed. But I noticed the other day that whenever I press the gas there's a tap noise for a second and goes away, it happens every time I put my foot on the gas. The sound is like someone tapping there foot on tile floor. I can also feel the tap noise.
I'm not sure what it could be. I know the passenger front tire is tinking when I drive around, which I'm getting fixed this afternoon, but what could be causing this noise when I accelerate and how urgent would it need to be fixed?
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I am getting a loud knocking noise from the engine on my Santa Fe. The car is very low mileage of around 51K and has regular service and oil change.
Not sure what has caused this but there is a loud tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine. Have got it locally checked with the garage and Hyundai Workshop also but both have suggested that Oil levels are appropriate and they need to open engine to investigate more.
At a higher RPM the sound becomes more loud and recognizable.
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I own a 2001 Accent 1.6, auto. 150,000 well-taken-care-of miles. New plugs/wires/timing belt/coolant flush 10,000 miles ago. Most recent oil change was with Shell Rotella T5 (I believe 10w-30 blend) and Purolator PureOne filter, 4-5,000 miles ago. It does not burn any oil, and runs very well. It has never been low on oil, revved high, or abused in the 10,000 miles I've owned it (except an ebrake u-turn on a dirt road to scare the wife )
The engine has always had a mild tick when cold, that goes away within about 30 seconds. Normal, from what I could tell. Also, it has always had a tick from roughly 1500-idle when releasing the gas, in neutral. Again, seems fairly normal for a little engine, I figured just some valve noise.
This morning I started the car (sat overnight) and it idled a bit rough for about 20 seconds, and I noticed that the ticking from before was now closer to a knocking/tapping, nowhere NEAR the horribleness of a spun rod on my WRX . But it was still a bit alarming. It never really quieted down, but as I rev, the sound goes away completely above 2k, and the flutter when I release the throttle is louder than before.
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I posted about this back when I bought it back in Feb. and I thought the problem worked itself out but its back. When the temperature drops below 55 degrees or so, coming from the passenger side of the engine there is a chugging or knocking sound, more so when RPMs are high.
I had no issues with it all summer, but now that the temperature is dropping I noticed its back. Is this something I should worry about? What could be causing this? I had the same engine in my 07 and it never did this.
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It is a 2002 or 2003 Chevy truck with a diesel engine. He was going down the road the other day under normal driving conditions when the motor made a racket and then white smoke started coming out of the back like a chimney. The truck will still crank and run (and smoke), and now there is a knocking or tapping noise that is coming from the engine. The engine is running kind of rough, and has the tapping or knocking sound, but it will calm down for 1/2 a second at which time the rough idle and noise stop, but quickly return. There is no engine code showing, so my code reader is useless. I once had a Chevy 350 with a spun main bearing that sounds similar, but the motor didn't idle rough or smoke. I don't know enough about diesel engines. I was told there was a possibility of a bad injector pump or bad injector itself. Is there any way of testing this yourself, or does it require a shop trip?
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About 3 months ago, I bought a 2012 F-150 XLT 5.0 4x4. I bought it from a private party, a.k.a. without a warranty. It's a Ford, right? What could possibly go wrong??
Shortly after I bought it, I started noticing that it was knocking and tapping when it got up to operating temperature. Also, the idle isn't very smooth.
I have read through several threads here regarding Coyote engines with similar symptoms, and I have come to the realization that my wallet may be about to go on a diet.
Here is a video I made today, moving my phone to various places in the engine compartment, behind the drivers front wheel, and under the truck.
2012 Ford F-150 5.0 Coyote Noises 80k Miles - YouTube....
I realize that it could run a long time like this, but I sometimes take long trips and I really don't want to end up with engine trouble in the middle of nowhere.
Considering I don't have a warranty, and assuming the problem is out-of-round cylinders and/or worn valve train parts, what is my best course of action?
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My 2003 Ranger 2.3L When I purchased it in 2005 I never noticed this tapping noise until in 2007 when Tennessee forced 10% Ethanol added to fuel. That is when the noise started.
What this could be. I have since moved to Texas and found a station that sells Ethanol Free gas, but that does not remove the noise.
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The car is a 1997 pontiac sunfire 4 cyl 2.4L.When the car is turned on it makes a sound like the one in the mp3 file that I've attached. Some other symptoms I've noticed is a very slight loss of power while accelerating, and whenever I pull up to a stop and the engine gets into the idle rpm range (800-1000) the oil light comes on and the rpm dips to about 400 and sometimes the engine dies. The engine is also running very very hot, although I haven't driven the car in about 2 months and it's 100 degrees outside, not sure if that's related.
What I have tried so far is replacing the oil and filter, and adding 2/5 a pint of seafoam engine additive for 4 quarts of oil as per the instructions on the bottle. I did this because I suspected it was a stuck lifter, but after driving it for 30 miles with no improvement I'm starting to think otherwise.
As some of you may know I'm not entirely mechanically inclined and that's why I'm here, sometimes I get posts from people who insist I shouldn't be anywhere near an engine but let's try to keep those negative posts off my thread.
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My girlfriends 2010 Golf 2.5 is worrying me. We went on a weekend vacation to Boston so the car sat for 3 days. I go to turn it on tonight and it just immediately stalls. I was like okay thats weird so I turn it back on and instead of stalling, the RMP gauge keeps dipping and then going back up and theres a strange knocking noise, so I turn it off and then decide to try again. Same thing happens so I go to open the hood and the noise is pretty loud. I noticed a strange smell outside the car while the motor was running, but I can't really explain it. So I turn it off for about 2 minutes and then start it again and its just back to normal, I'm so confused. I drove it about 5 miles and it seems fine, aside from idling slightly rougher than normal. What this could be?
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My Car has been making a noise that comes and goes. It seems to be dependent on the speed of the engine and coming from under the hood. It can come for an hour and then disappear for a week, then come back etc.
Toyota Yaris 2008105K4 cylinder, 1.5L engineNo turbo. Attached is an MP3 of the noise, you may have to turn up the volume to hear as it isn't super loud.
Seems to happen more often in colder weather. It sometimes happens right from startup, but other times it doesn't start until after half an hour on the road.
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I have a 2012 L100 Saturn with just over 189K miles (yes, it's been an awesome car). In October 2012 I both sets of breaks replaced plus rotors. About 2 months after the service, I started hearing a knocking and grinding sound coming from the bottom of the car, about 80% of the time when I apply the breaks. The car does not make the sound if idle or while accelerating. The knocking seems to be loud at times and less present other times. The grinding sounds like a large wire cable is being pulled right underneath the car.
I took it back to the break place and they replaced the Master Cylinder under the warranty. The sound went away for about a month and then came back with about the same frequency. Took it back to the same place and this time they replaced the Wheel cylinder. Sound again went away, but this time came back 2 days later. I'm puzzled because for some reason the sound seems to go away and come back when the car is serviced. It;s also not consistent, but it's there. Not sure what it could be related to if not the break job. I'm bracing myself for some really bad news as this car has been a life saver since I bought it.
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I am driving an `99 Saturn wagon with manual transmission. The car has held up pretty well, but lately it has developed a bit of a problem with starting and stopping the engine. When I start the car it struggles to not stall for a minute or two, an if I do not apply a bit of gas it stalls out pretty quickly (the is unable to restart for several minutes). If I keep the accelerator down a little for a minute or so I can ease off and it will no longer stall. It will then run just fine till it is time to shut off the engine, at which point it it behaves as if it was stalling, I get a knocking from the back and then it sputters to a stop.
The behavior is very consistent. I have learned to live with it, but it is annoying and I worry it is a sign of a more serious problem. I should also note that before the last time I brought it into the shop the behavior was around but not frequent, now it is 'all the time', which is part of why I want a better understanding rather then just taking their word for everything.
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Having an intermittent strange sound coming from the fuel pump from its normal whine at start up to a gurgling sound almost like you are blowing back through the fuel line back into the tank. Going on a 300 mile trip, should I hold off?
Btw: it's a 1996 Aerostar 3.0L
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Not sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
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We have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
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Info: 2003 Ion-1 165k+ miles
I'm hearing a clunking/knocking noise in my Ion that sounds like the front driver side. It's most audible starting about 30 mph. It grows louder as I drive faster and the rate of clunking/knocking is relative to the speed I am driving. It doesn't change when I push in the clutch or when I'm in a different gear. It does not happen when I rev my engine in neutral. I even shut off my car while moving in a parking lot and no change. The sound changes when I turn (sounds like a more muffled/dull sound but still loud if that makes sense), and in my mind it seems to sound worse when I'm turning right than left.
I noticed the noise on Thursday of last week. It was at the point where I had to have my radio off to notice the noise. Since then it has grown louder and as of yesterday is now overpowering my radio when at reasonable volume.
I just replaced both the driver and passenger wheel bearing in the last 18 months, and I just got new Tier-3 Cooper tires 3 months ago. (I wouldn't think the bearing would knock, but just as history fyi.) I was convinced by the troubleshooting guide in my Haynes manual that it was either the inner or outer CV joint so I replaced the whole Driver side CV Axle and topped off the Tranny Fluid with Dexron-III. No dice. I thought there's a chance it could be my new tires, so I Rotated the tires on the left side F->B/B->F as well and the noise did not seem to change. Spinning the tires by hand while up on my jack stands does not seem to tell me anything (I'm guessing I'd have to have them spinning at about 20/30mph to hear anything).
My next idea at this point is to put the front end up on jack stands and have someone put my car in gear and give it a little gas while I stand nearby and try to pinpoint where the sound is coming from. I'm a little leery about this one, and I'm not even sure if it's going to make the noise when not under load anyway.
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