Saturn :: Sudden Fluctuation In RPMs / Rough Idle At Stoplight
Jul 27, 2013
We have a 1997 Saturn. For the past few months, whenever we're at a stoplight it suddenly fluctuates in RPMs, giving it a rough idle (going from 1000 down to 500 or so for a second or two, before coming back up to normal). It appears to be temperature sensitive (i.e. the longer the car runs or the hotter the outside temp, the more often this occurs). I sprayed the throttle body connection and vacuum connections to attempt to find a potential vacuum leak, with no effect. We've already had the transmission replaced, and haven't been having any other idle issues besides this. What else might be causing it.
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Replaced the idle air solenoid and the car still vibrates in drive when at the light, etc.. Engine mounts were replaced though I am sure that isn't relevant. Anything I can look for?
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Last week I had the plugs, coils, valve cover gasket and fuel filter done my 2004 Ford Escape when the engine started misfiring and today it started to idle rough at a stoplight and it seemed like it was going to stall but didn't. I had it sit for about an hour and a half and the it did want to turn over like the battery did have enough cold crank to it but it did after a couple of times. It has come and gone for the last couple of hours. No warning lights are one either. It seems pretty close to what it was doing when it was misfiring. What it may be?
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I tried searching and only found rough idle at startup, so here is my issue. At the same point in my AM drive, quite often I'll come to a stoplight and the motor will idle fairly roughly. If I switch to the "car" on the dash, it indicates the motor should be off. It is not charging the battery. Today it did it when I was only one bar from full battery. Also did it at the next light I came to.
This happens at the end of the commute. I've already covered 40+ mostly highway miles.
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I have a 1997 Audi A4 that has been acting a little bit strange lately. When it is started up and left to idle all of a sudden the RPMs drop from around 600-800 to 100-200 sometimes rebounding back up and sometimes the car just dies. This also is happening while I am driving and stopped at a stop light for a short time. It will idle fine then suddenly drop RPMs and if I don't give it any gas then the car usually dies. I have just had some work done on it to try and fix this problem thinking it was the air flow sensor (or something like that) but apparently that is not the case.
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The 2008 Prius I have when it comes to a stoplight all of a sudden the car shakes. And then of course it sounds like a Chets off. Now over the years I have not really paid a whole lot attention to this but in the last year so it seems like a car has shaken more as it turns off at the red light what do you think.
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1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
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I have an '04 Elantra GLS with 274k on it. I've been caring for it myself with basic maintenance; that said, I changed the oil in it about 100 miles ago. Halfway through my drive home it started to idle rough under 1k rpm.
I've noticed a lot of other Hyundai's have the same issue. What would be/is the most COMMON cause of this? Timing belt? Basic tune up? I moved a state away from my local shop and I refuse to go to a Midas/Jiffy/ect.
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I just bought a 1995 Geo Tracker 5spd RWD 8valve 4 banger. Test drove beautifully (probably 10-15 mins driving). On the way home after purchasing it, however, it began having some issues, the most prominent being a fluctuation in rpm's when pressure is applied to the gas pedal. For instance, with the clutch pedal in, and the car between gears, when I push on the gas pedal, the rpm's will spike (guessing above 2000 rpm) and then drop (probably under 1000 rpm). It will only do this when gas is applied and when the vehicle is warmed up (10+ mins of driving). It will also do this in first gear when letting off on the throttle. I have been told a various array of parts that could be the problem, such as the thermo gauge, the IAC, tps........the list goes on and on. I was wondering if there were any way to pin point this to a certain part.
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I have a 2009 Saturn Aura, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission with 50,000 highway miles. Sometimes intermittently and sometimes all day long the engine will miss and has a rough idle. This can happen while waiting for a light, accelerating from a stop or while driving at speed on the highway. Weather does not seem to be a factor. Only once the engine was hard to start and ran very rough.
That is the only time over the past several months while experiencing this issue that a code was recorded in the computer. "misfire cylinder # 1" . The spark plugs were replaced and the #1 fuel injector was replaced. The misfire went away and returned. The number 1 and 4 coils were swapped and the misfire continues but no code appears in the computer to indicate which cylinder has the problem. I'd like to clear up the misfire, but also wonder why when the engine runs as rough as it does at times a code doesn't occur?
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Recently replaced spark plugs and wires on 02 SL1 with 209K miles. Was running rough, rough and high idle, almost died on me driving home one night. After replacing everything, car still wouldn't start. Spent some time on the forums and some suggested a leaking intake manifold gasket, so I changed that out as well as the coolant temperature sensor. Still it won't start. I am getting good spark at the plugs (coil arcs across the posts when plugs wires are off).
Really not sure where to go next with this. I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn on the ignition, and I get a good spray at the fuel rail. Basically I turn the key and it cranks, sputters, and will almost catch, but then not. What next??
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I have a 2001 Volvo S60 T5 Turbo with 145K on it, lately when at a stop, in Drive, my idle fluctuates, dipping below 1K RPM where it normally is, fluctuating between 500-1K RPM. Note the spark plugs have nearly 100K on them, but otherwise, car runs great (besides lots of oddball suspension noises)
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1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
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Not sure if this is normal so I've found that my car is idling very low in rpm's and feels like the car is shivering along with me! (hint: its really cold here) I took a very short video [URL] ....
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My golf 2.0 vw isn't doing so good right now. It has 227000 miles on it. It has been driving great, and then last week it started to idle rough. It idles between 600-800 rpms. it fluctuates between 600-800 rpms. It had the check engine light on before this happened i was told by my brother that it was an 02 sensor. I had it checked for what is causing the engine light to come on today at o Rileys, and it came up with 11 codes. Some of the codes where 02 sensors, it was running to rich, needed a new computer, evaps system, fuel pump, fuses, coil pack, spark plugs, It shakes when you sit in it when it is idling like not a bad shake but a small one you cal feel, l'm including a video of it running.
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I just bought a 2009 Chevy Silverado , have only had for a week and have noticed an irregular fluctuation in idle, also the transmission has lack of a better term jarred a few times and seems to downshift rough sometimes. The irregular idle seems to be worse when the ac is on, I can hear the compressor kick on and off alot. And just once I was driving and tried to accelerate and it didn't want to very much. Factory warranty is out and dealer didn't give option for extended warranty. They have agreed to look at it but aren't willing to do much other than clean injectors and throttle body.
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2007 Camry LE. This morning while driving, she noticed a shuddering that scared her. She called me and parked the car as soon as she could. I went to drive it around and, as she had said, it was shuddering.
I drove it for a bit, neighborhood and highways, and took note of everything. The RPMs were low - About 500. I'm not sure where it usually idles, I rarely drive this car, but my Jetta idles around 900 so this seems strange to me. RPM gauge occasionally bounces around at idle. Once the car gets moving there are no issues. Only at complete stop. It feels like the car is about to stall.
I drive a manual and if I keep it in gear while approaching a stop it makes the same shuddering because the RPMs are too low for the selected gear. This is what it reminds me of.
Here is a video of what's going on under the hood. As you can see, the airbox is vibrating heavily. That's the most obvious place. The engine and intake manifold are also bouncing around, but it's hard to see in the iPhone video.
Video ... ... ...
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As of late, my 06 Camry (I4) idle's real rough @ 600 rpms when in park. It stays the same in drive with the A/C on. However, when I switch the A/C off, for about 2 secs, the idle will be smooth before dropping down in rpms. Some folks have said this is normal, but I've had this happened to my car before. I've got 135K on it so I'm guess a tune up is in order.
I'm new in the game of working on my car myself since a past issue with the dealer on my '06. So if all is needed is a tune up, I can do that myself with the parts of my choice.
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The problems seems to be getting progressively worse, it has a rough idle and when it smooths out is only at about 600 rpms and still sounds strange. Also, I am running extremely rich, blows flames quite often and in OCMD I went 100 miles on a half tank. Car is stage 1 unitonic with sai and evap deleted. I changed the maf and that didn't change anything. I was searching for vacuum leaks yesterday and noticed that one of the vacuum caps I have on the bottom of the intake manifold was dried out so I took it off so i could put my finger over it and see if it ran better, when the cap was off it ran great but when I put my finger over it it would go back to an awful idle Now when I come to a stop it will sometimes drop the rpm so low that it shuts off, when I am driving you can't tell a difference.
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I've made posts about a rough idle before now I noticed something new about it. I noticed when I approach a red light the vibrations don't start immediately. They start as soon as the RPMS would drop a little. They stay above 500 but it seems like it's below 750. As if the engine is slightly starved from power? Now i'm wondering if it could be related to another problem I have.
Whenever I start the car, the battery light flickers until the car is started all the way. This is on a 2007 Camry 4 cylinder. So far everything iv'e done is: New NGK Spark Plugs, NEW OEM mounts (all 4) Seafoamed the engine, Seafoamed the throttle body, cleaned the MAF sensor, New air filter, and cleaned the air filter box, replaced the PCV Vlave, new belt, new alternator (duralast), and a new battery (from autozone).
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After the engine is warmed, my normal idle in drive, park, neutral, or reverse is around 650-700 RPMs.
I have recently noticed that when a combination of conditions occur, my idle hovers around 450-500 RPMs and is pretty rough. This low, rough idle occurs when:
1) The car is in drive;
2) The car is at a full stop (foot on the brake or auto-brake hold);
3) All accessories are off (heated seats are off, radio is off, headlights are off); and
4) HVAC is Off.
I went to the dealer and they ran diagnostics. No error codes were recorded. The dealer looked at other ls460s and said they all do that. By the way, I noticed this after my VSR was done.
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