Saturn :: Battery Light Coming On And Staying On
Jan 21, 2014
I started having an issue with my battery light coming on and staying on so everyone told me change the alternator. So i did. 4 days later the battery light came back on and now i have it in the shop, alternator check came out good, battery check came out good and starter check came out good.
I haven't had any issues with the car before now, i have made several long trips, bought it brand new and have 69,000 miles on it. I love my car, but I am scared to find out what it's going to cost to fix it.
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The alternator on my wifes '07 Santa Fe (2.2 CRDI) broke down when one of the internal diodes gave up last week. The battery warning light came on when she was driving to work. Since then the Alternator has been rebuilt and refitted, and the battery fully charged. The car now runs fine and the Alternator is putting out around 14.6v so charging the battery OK. The only problem is the warning light is still on. How to get it to turn off ?
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I have a 1999 F-150 4.6L V-8, and the battery light is staying on. Something is draining the battery. I have taken it to Auto Zone, and they tested the battery (brand new), starter, and alternator - all show good. The only error they can register is "C1226 brake light lamp short." What could be causing this? I had to get jump started at a gas station 2 nights ago. I have checked the alternator fuse, and it is ok. Could the wiring be bad somewhere?
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Over the past few days the battery light has been flickering and at times staying on. In using the gauge cluster diagnostics, I am getting 12.4 engine off and 13.8 - 14.0 with the engine running.
Even when I'm driving with the battery warning light on I still get a consistent 13.8 - 14.0 (and I do have the headlights on, the A/C running, radio, etc).
Kind of scratching my head on this issue since it appears the alternator and battery are working correctly.
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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Issues with check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer says it is either a gas cap problem or the type of gas being put in the car. Dealer recommends only using Shell fuel. The car drives fine and am wondering if this might be sensitive fuel detection.
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My wife has a problem with the check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer has replaced the fuel pump twice (which they say is the problem) but it keeps happening.
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A week ago I noticed that the Truck ( 2003 Saturn Vue AWD) doesn't go up hill easily anymore, then one night when I was driving the horn started going off and on for sometimes. Also the radio turned off. This morning I have the heater on and light on I drove for about 20 mns; I stopped at the ATM machine, turned the engine off. When I restarted the car the battery light came on and the dashboard light was dimmed. I was about 5 mns from home so I made home.
I don't want to get stock on I95 during rush hour.
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I have a 2012 f250 been in the shop 4 times for the traction control light just coming on randomly and staying on. they have flashed it changed something in the steering column forgot name of that and changed some sensors out. still does it. I think its a bad connection or bare wire is what I keep saying to them cause it only does it on rough roads and when its wet.
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Just recently, my Brake light started coming on, on my dashboard for several seconds or more then going back out. I checked the fluid and it was fine. The next time the brake light came on, I noticed that the needles for Both my Speedometer and RPM gages dropped to zero for as long as the Brake light was illuminated. Once the brake light went off, the needles once again showed my speed and RPM (were functional). This occurs while I'm simply driving down the road.
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94 ford ranger, 4.0L OHC, 4x4 5 speed manual 146,000 ....
So the other day I was driving home and i noticed my battery light was coming on each time i stopped at a red light. Soon after it remained on regardless and the voltage gauge started to drop till it hovered right at the "N" in normal but thinking if my alternator had gone i was best to keep driving rather than having to stop and restart the car again. I shut the radio off and made it home. The next day i grabbed my haynes manual and started going through all the tests of the charging system and everything checked out.
The battery had a full 12.8v at rest and when idling showed 14.3, whats going on? The car didn't have a problem starting the next day and the battery, even now another day later, has a solid 12.8 on it so I don't suspect a drain anywhere. The only thing that i notice is when i tested the resistance on the voltage regulator the manual calls for at least 2.4ohms and mine read 4.0ohms, is that normal? Could it just be that my actual gauge is bad and i am getting a false reading? My only other thought here is maybe the drive belt is a little loose and its slipping when the alternator is under load, but I don't hear a squeal and when i measure the deflection between the alternator and powers steering pump i get a little less than a 1/2".
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Short version is that my battery is not staying charged. I drive the car daily and am not having any serious issues except for having to put a charger on overnight about once a month or so since this past winter. The current battery (Optima red top) has never gone dead and has been more reliable than the original, it just cranks progressively slower each time I start the car until the day comes that I decide to put the charger on again.
All the lights flicker and dim when driving at night, and have been like that for a few years. When it began, I had the charging system checked three separate times. Once at the dealership who told me everything was fine, once at an Advance Auto who said all was well except for there being an above normal load on the battery with the engine/all accessories off , and once at an alternator/electric motor specialist who said all was well except that the alternator was not capable of generating enough to keep the battery charged long term. They said if I ever got stuck in traffic and sat at idle with the ac/stereo on for an extended period that I shouldn't shut it off since I may not have enough power to crank it again . At first I thought they were going to suggest that I have them repair/rebuild/upgrade it somehow, but they really had no interest in doing so.
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So my radiator fans were staying on until my battery died and my car was completely cooled down and off. I was told it was a sticking relay so I replaced it and the fans still won't come on. I unplugged the coolant temp sensor and the fans came on so I know its not the motors or anything.
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I HAVE A 2005 f-150 LARIET 5.4 lt. I have been having a problem with my battery being drained. My stereo has been staying on once the truck has been turned off. It has also been coming on when the truck is parked all by itself and draining the battery. Sometimes when i am driving in the truck and turn the stereo on it wont come on, ten minutes down the road the stereo will all of a sudden come on. I have tried removing the relay for the stereo, no difference. I have also removed all fuses for the stereo and entertainment system, yet the draining of the battery is still occurring. What the problem could be?
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Any setting that would cause it. Light switch in auto position. Parked Tig at night. Coming home lights were on. When I came out an hour later they were still on. Tried a number of things to turn them off but no luck. Next day in daylight, after I boosted my battery, the coming home lights were off. This was on a 2009 Tig that I was test driving and am thinking of purchasing. It is currently back at the car dealer to be checked out, along with a few other issues that need to be addressed. Hoping it is not a sign of bigger problems.
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2005 Camry LE 4 cylinder, 141K miles.
For 6 months the battery light has been coming on intermittently, sometimes not coming on for two to three days and then does it again every so often during the fourth day and so on. Until recently, it's gone a record 6 days without coming on.
However, today it's stayed on all day. Usually, when it does come on, it will go back in in a minute or two. I'd gotten used to it, since the car has always started like nothing is wrong. However, tonight the ABS light came on with the battery light, then the Safety Bag light came on. Then, the radio died, clicking, static, then just dim light, The clock dimmed when the headlights were on, and the headlights weren't as bright as they should be. Stopped the car in a parking lot. Wouldn't not start again, but the dash would come on.
Got a jump and the car started up fine, but there wasn't enough power getting to anything to make the car do much of anything. The car didn't seem to have enough power to send to the transmission to shift, pressing the brake pedal made the dash go black.
Sat a while, got the car to start again, with a fight. Enough power to shift getting to the transmission, but quickly all the lights started coming on one by one again, and none of the lights were bright as they should be. Back to square one.
Just the battery? Replaced the alternator a year ago, when it killed the last battery. The current battery is a year to 13 months old.
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I have a 2002 Toyota camry and for the last few or so, the check battery light has been coming on and off. it stays on for a day and then goes off for a day or so. I have had my mechanic check the battery, the alternator and he couldn't find anything wrong with either of them. the alternator is working good, the battery tested at 730cca and 13.5volts. what is wrong and is it safe to keep driving this car?
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2007 Prius
I just replaced the 12V battery with an Optimus yellow top. The car still will not start. All dash lights come on, READY light does not. Car will only shift into Park and Neutral.
Battery reads 12.6 volts when not hooked up and 12.3 when cables attached to terminals.
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Few weeks ago my battery light coming on when I am on the highway (1999 Chevy Cavalier). It wasn't coming on until I hit around 70-75 mph. It comes on and goes off. Then, several seconds later, it comes back on and goes back off. I replaced the belt and the first day driving, it didn't come back on. The next day though, it started again.
I also replaced the valve cover gasket because it was leaking oil and I thought maybe the belt was getting some oil on it. That does not appear to be the case, unless the oil is coming from somewhere else.
I have an old style voltmeter, nothing digital, and when I place the meter on the battery, it seems to have an adequate charge, but noticed something odd when I placed it on the battery while the car was idling. The thing was showing a greater voltage while running, somewhere around 14+ volts (can't remember exact reading).
But, occasionally, the needle on the voltmeter would just drop off to 0 and then suddenly come back up to around 14 volts, maybe a bit more. I don't know if it was the voltmeter not reading it right because it does not have clamps, it is just two pin shaped ends on the red and black wires. I was holding the pins onto the battery as tight and still as possible, so if it was correct, why would the voltage drop off like that?
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My battery light has been coming on and then going off, just back and forth, for a few days now. The light stays on about 80% of the time. I have new batteries and the alternator is about three years old. I've checked the voltage from the alternator to the batteries while the light is on and I'm getting 13.85 volts on the multimeter. I've checked and cleaned terminals just to be sure they are corrosion free and right, I've checked the ground to make sure it's right.
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As I'm driving along, I get the battery light coming for a few minutes then going out. Is this a sign my alternator is on the fritz?
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