My Saturn Aura XR shakes when i get up to about 60 - 65 mph. even worse when i go faster. any suggestions on what to do. i am going to get the alingment checked. but i think it is something else.
View 12 RepliesI just bought this car and if I am on a incline and take my foot off the gas it rolls backward as if it a Manual transmission and it is not. I am being told this is normal because of low rpms.
View 1 RepliesAll the sudden last night I looked outside and saw several lights on my car turning on for no reason. My head and tail lights, my interior lights. I tried turning them off with the key in and out but that did not stop them from going off. they stayed on until the battery drained. Another on going problem is neither of the remotes with new battery's will work rarely. To unlock truck, or doors and when they do work not all the doors will lock or unlock with the remotes when they occasionally work.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Saturn Aura, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission with 50,000 highway miles. Sometimes intermittently and sometimes all day long the engine will miss and has a rough idle. This can happen while waiting for a light, accelerating from a stop or while driving at speed on the highway. Weather does not seem to be a factor. Only once the engine was hard to start and ran very rough.
That is the only time over the past several months while experiencing this issue that a code was recorded in the computer. "misfire cylinder # 1" . The spark plugs were replaced and the #1 fuel injector was replaced. The misfire went away and returned. The number 1 and 4 coils were swapped and the misfire continues but no code appears in the computer to indicate which cylinder has the problem. I'd like to clear up the misfire, but also wonder why when the engine runs as rough as it does at times a code doesn't occur?
I took my 2007 Saturn Aura for a scheduled oil change. They did the change and than called me into the shop to show me an oil leak. I was told that the oil pan gasket is leaking oil onto the exhaust and I could have a fire if I didn't get it replaced. The thing is that my car has been parked in the same place on my driveway every day for 5 years and has never dripped a drop of oil on the concrete. The car has only 30,000 miles and has been well maintained. How likely is it that there is a real problem with the oil pan gasket?
View 15 RepliesHaving problems with their radio buttons sometimes working, sometimes not? I'm wondering if I need to "pop off" the buttons and clean contacts or if I'm going to have to replace the radio. This is in a 2008 Saturn Aura, but I'm sure this radio is in other GM cars.
View 3 RepliesWhen I went to go shopping this afternoon, I discovered my car wouldn't start. It wouldn't even crank, which was strange since it seemed to be running fine just two days ago. At this point I assume either the battery is bad or something else is. It's a bit hard for me to tell since the engine wouldn't even try to turn over.
Initial Observations: When I first tried to turn the the car on it wouldn't even turn over, in fact, all I could hear was the a fairly loud buzzing from behind the dash board. On further attempts I noticed that the info display (or whatever it's called) wasn't displaying the tire pressure readings. I did later notice some "reluctance" from the automatic door mechanism, and earlier this week I observed my car was a bit more reluctant than usual to start, but I assumed it was just the cold weather. After the initial attempt to get my car started, I tried jumping it, but no luck. It still wouldn't start or even turn over. If it's the battery, said battery must have a dead cell, however, wouldn't the engine still try to "turn"?
Later observations: I tried again this evening after it had gotten dark, since it would let me observe the headlights and such. Same behavior as before. I couldn't really tell if lights had dimmed. HOWEVER, when I tried yet again a little later I accidentally set off the alarm. Now I observed the lights were dim and the horn weak.
Additionally, when I turned the alarm off I heard that buzz behind the dash again. Most of what I've seen makes me lean toward the battery, but this noise bothers me and makes me wonder whether there may be some kind of electrical fault.
Other information: My car is a 2008 Saturn Aura, that I got used in Jan of 2010. I assume the battery is at least that old, since I haven't gotten it replaced while I've owned it.
This afternoon, I was trying to get a sticker off of my wife's rear window (2009 Saturn). I put some goo goneon a paper towel and put it over the sticker and went inside. The car was in the garage, and I closed the doorand went into the house.
About an hour later, I went to check on the progress. What I found was the entire rear window was shattered. Could it have possibly gotten too hot in such a short time frame to cause that? I will add that about a monthago, the car was in an accident and hit just behind the passenger side rear tire (it pulled the whole rear bumperoff.
I have a 2008 Saturn Aura. Last spring I had an incident where I was driving on a highway (60mph or >) and the car started to decelerate and the gas pedal didn't respond. I pulled off the road, and the car wouldn't start, but the radio worked. By the time AAA came, the car started and I didn't have another problem for 10 months. I did take it to the dealer after the first episode, and they couldn't find anything. Recently I had 2 similar episodes on the same day, one hour apart. I was again driving on a highway. After 5-10 mins, the car was able to be started again. I feel like it's a waste of money to take the car in to the dealer again, since they didn't find anything the first time. What might cause this to happen?
View 10 RepliesI recently had my check engine light come on (again) and it's registering a P1175 error (again). This is apparently indicates a problem with the "fuel trim cylinder balance" in bank 2. And according to what I've read can be caused by a number of things, such as a faulty oxygen sensor, ignition problem, fuel injection problem, or some other condition.
I say again, because I had it come on about two months ago with the same error and when I took it in they flushed the fuel injectors, which was apparently recommended by bulletin 03-06-04-030H.
Unfortunately the light has come on again, and stayed on. This happened after I stopped to get gas on my 6 hour drive from visiting family in Michigan. Another interesting data point is that this code has been in the warning state in my engine for over a year from what I can tell. I've only used my OBD2 reader a couple of times. First was 9/2011, and no problem was detected. Six months later in March 2012, I checked it again and P1175 was a "pending code". I hadn't used the reader until this problem. But now, over a year later, the issue has apparently moved from a pending problem to a more serious one.
What this all boils down to, is that I'm asking opinions as to what the problem may actually be. I'm curious at to what could have been so long in developing. I intend to take the car in to get looked at shortly, but in the mean time I figured I'd ask around.
For reference, my car is a 2008 Saturn Aura XE, with about 71K in mileage (over 13k since I got that reading in 2012).
I have a 2009 Saturn aura and what's goin on is when I apply my brakes the car hesitates a sec then slightly jerks before moving on. It doesn't do it any other time and it will happen no matter what gear or speed I am in/going. Only when the brakes are applied......?? I just don't get it. It smooth as ever just as long as I don't touch the bake
View 1 RepliesI have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
Has experienced transmission seem to jump back in gear after coasting at low speeds in traffic. When I push on the pedal after coasting it jumps back in gear and is very frustrating. I have had it checked out at dealer and they told me they re-programmed the Transmission which scared me. But that didn't fix the problem. Will be taking it in one more time before I decide what to do.
View 30 RepliesWell, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
View 4 RepliesI hear a consistent tick tick tick when driving coming from what sounds like the passenger side wheel . It's is consistent with the rate of speed I'm traveling so if I'm going slow the tick is slow and if I speed up the tick speeds up. If I stop the tick stops.
View 1 RepliesI did some quick searching and didn't find much. After a snow and two days of resting in my driveway, I fired up the car. It began shaking (quite violently) in a rhythmic manner, I couldn't pinpoint where it was coming from. About 20 seconds in the check engine light popped on. I shut the car off, waited about a minute and turned it on again. When i turned the car back on, there was no shake and everything seems normal. The car has around 63,000 miles on it and still has the CPO full warranty. My plan is to give the service center a quick call in the morning, but I was wondering what this could be.
View 5 RepliesMy 97 Camry shakes when accelerating.
First thing i did was check the trans fluid (automatic). The drip stick showed itself to be very well high above the max fill line for running hot. So i drained the pan, and replaced the fluid with 2.6 QTs as recommended by Haynes auto manual. The dip stick still shows itself to be high and at the same spot as previously. The problem still persist.
I recently have changed the front rotors and brakes how ever i do not feel that would be the cause to the below symptoms.
-Shakes on and off when accelerating while O/D is on.
-When O/D is off occasionally shakes.
-Rarely shakes when manually shifting.
-Shakes often when driving up hills.
-With O/D on, acceleration beyond 60 km is near impossible as it constantly shakes.
Every time I step on the gas in my 97 ford mustang, it starts to shake. it shakes few a few seconds and then stops. im not really sure why or what is making it do that.
View 2 Replieswhen Im going down a hill or when I hit a certain speed my steering wheel shakes and I don't mean a small shake I mean my arms are grabbing the steering wheel to keep control and they are violently shaking with the wheel. Now in the begining I heard that if alot of snow got packed into your tires the wheels would shake but theres no snow I check everyday before I leave and if there is I get it out. So then I think maybe it could be my tires aren't balance right but no less then 2 and 1/2 months I got new snow tires put on in a shop so they SHOULD'VE balanced them right? so that can't be the problem so then I thought alingnment! but the thing with that is if I let go of the wheel when I'm going under 50-60 miles an hour and it stays pretty damn straight then it can't be that either..
View 14 RepliesSo I just recently bough a Celica GTS off an old friend, and the test drive went smoothly. Bought of course, as soon as I got it home, things started going bad.
Sitting in the driveway for a moment, I started to feel the car shake when the engine was idling. I ran the engine up to 1.5K RPMS and it smoothed out, but you could still feel it, just barely. As soon as you let it drop down to the 1K, its horrible again.
Temperatures were fine, no trouble codes. I've Isolated it to the 2nd cylinder from the right, and I've already checked plugs/wires and done compression tests on all 4 cylinders. Fuel injectors are also working fine.
I'm owner of Lexus ls 460 from 2008. Today I noticed that when I turned A/C and lights off rpm's are dropping to 500. With P mode is all ok, but when I shift to D and I depress the brake pedal steering wheel and the car shakes. Battery is ok and charging from alternator is 14.20. When I turn on the air conditioning, vibration disappear and RPM's rising to 600/700. The engine is warm (has normal temperature"). Tt is strange to me that when I shift to R I do not feel no vibration.
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