Saturn :: 1998 SL2 Driver Door Lock Switch Failure / Key Fob Malfunction
Aug 4, 2013
I was having intermittent problems with my key fob. I replaced several times, but still had problems with it not working. (A real joy when the alarm is armed). Recently, the driver's door switch (lock/unlock) failed completely. All of a sudden, the key fob is working perfectly (so far) again. Could the failing switch have been causing the fob malfunction all along? I'd like to use the fob, but I'm not fond of the part where the car is alarmed and it won't disengage.
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I have a 2002 Saturn Vue with a couple of miles on it (228,436 to be exact). I bought the car used in 2009 with 150K miles. Since I bought the vehicle, the electric door locks have stopped working, both with the key fop and with the door lock switches. This all started with the key fob working intermittently, and eventually degraded to the door lock switches not working. When I press the door lock switches on any of the doors you can hear the relay try to engage, however the doors do not lock or unlock. This is particularly interesting since now when I turn the ignition off, instead of unlocking the door, the system locks three of the doors and the hatch (it does nothing with the driver side door). I am not sure where to start looking for the root cause of this problem.
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The power door lock switches, on both driver and passenger doors, only functions to lock the door but will not unlock. When either switch is depressed to lock, both function with no problem. But when depressing either side button to unlock, there is absolutely no activity at all. Like there is no current reaching either one. This happened once about a week ago, but my son came along and just kept pressing the passenger side button and it came back to life after 5 or 6 tries. But now the same problem has recurred and it will not resolve.
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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I have a 1998 ford explorer and I am having a problem with my passenger side door lock actuator, or I think that's what it is. I can lock and unlock all the other doors by using the switch on either my driver side door, passenger side door or the switch in the rear of the vehicle but only the passenger side door does not react when this switch is pushed. I have to unlock the passenger door with the key or open the latch from the inside. I tried to take a look at it myself but I cant figure it out so I will put the door panel back on.
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Strangely today my drivers side rear power door lock stopped working. Very annoying, can't unlock it electronically, and if its unlocked the rest of the car won't lock and the headlights won't go off.
I have to put it in anyways for the airbag seat rail TSB, but I was going to wait until my 40k service was due. This is too annoying to wait on since I put my briefcase and hang up my suit jacket in that seat...
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Simultaneously driver door lock switch does not work but door lock when shifting into drive and when shifting into park. RR passenger door lock is jammed, cannot move electrically or manually. All this at the same time!
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2016 push button start, need to confirm something? It's cold up here in these parts this time of year and I have been letting my car run for a few minutes when it's frosted over in the morning. The issue I'm having is that I start the car and go back into the house. When I come back out to get in, The driver's door is unlocked but the rest of the doors are not. When I press the unlock button on the key fob, nothing happens. Is this how it's supposed to work or do I have an issue?
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my moms 2004 touareg's switch to lock/unlock got pushed through and is in the door now i'm wondering what you have to remove to get where it would've fallen and how to get it off i've tried to snap it out but i don't want to pull it too hard and break anything else. also how do i get it back in position once i get to it
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On my 97, I cannot power LOCK the doors from the driver's door switch. All other functions work okay. Jumping the switch has no effect.
On the wiring diagram the wires from right and left door switches come together at the relay (seems logical). Where the relay is located?
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I have a 20th anniversary gti and the driver side door wont lock and the gas door wont unlock. The passenger door is fine. The drivers side door will not lock from the switch inside the car or the remote. I already replaced the locking module and nothing changed. I also unplugged and cleaned the 3 plugs for the drivers side wiring harness.
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The driver side door lock switch on our 1998 Mercury Mountaineer was no longer working. I replaced the switch with a remanufactured unit and it still doesn't work. The rest of the switches and keyless entry work as intended. Is there another likely reason besides a bad switch that would cause this? Which pins on the back of the switch should have power on them? Also, how do you test the switch?
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I have a 98 Mountaineer V8 AWD... The other day the power door lock on the drivers door quit working, even with the remote it wont lock the doors. If I press the other door lock buttons, the one in the rear and the other on the passenger side door, all the doors will lock. I have tried to chase down the wire ( pink with Yellow stripe, or green stripe, I forget which one it is now ) I don't have a wiring diagram to know where the wire goes.
I have even swapped the door lock buttons from side to side and it still didn't change anything... Is there something that is a common problem with these that I need to know about??? Looking for a wiring diagram of the doors?? There is no power going to the drivers door lock, but there is to passenger door. I am thinking of running a jumper wire from door to door and see if this will fix it...
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Just bought an 06' f-150 about a month ago everything was in working order and now lone behold a problem. Not sure if it is significant or not but a problem is a problem none the less. To start the driver side door will no longer unlock either door, replaced the switch hoping/thinking it was just faulty but still no luck, tried to unlock and lock it from the passenger side to make sure that it isn't the actuators and confirmed that it is not the problem so I am left wondering what could it be? Was thinking maybe a relay? or a fuse? but Where the relay would be and it wouldn't make sense to me being a fuse for unlock and another separate fuse for lock.
Next battery died after a week of sitting, checked the battery and alternator to make sure that it wasn't those to blame for the problem and both were fine. I know that there is a after market security system on the truck and that is the suspect thus far to being the Drain I am Having, still yet to hook up a multi meter to see how big of a drain it is though. third is that the CD player does not turn on nor do the lights turn on once you shut the truck off and open the door, I have to manually turn the CD player off to keep it from draining the battery even more. Feel like I fell for a little trap buying from the dealership. trying to work something out with them but until I hear back I am still trying to make amends.
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I have a '99 Super Duty Club Cab and the driver side door lock switch is not working. Passenger side switch locks and unlocks both doors just fine. Full disclaimer, the driver side actuator is wearing out and doesn't work all the time but I can always hear it engaging when the passenger switch is activated. So I know the driver side actuator is on it's way out and have plans to replace it.
That being said here is what I have done that leads me to believe the driver side lock switch is fine and the problem lies elsewhere....I just don't know where. If I swap the driver and passenger lock switches, the drivers side switch will work when plugged into the passenger side but the passenger switch will no longer work when plugged into the driver side. This tells me the switch is fine and my problem lies somewhere else. Where I should start to track this problem down?
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So all but the driver door window switch stopped working including the lock and unlock buttons. The windows still go up and down but from the other door switches.
My best guess is the master switch is gone bad. And at over 65k I'm sure it's no longer under warranty. I called the local dealer today and quoted me over $500 and would not give me the part number.
After parking the car for 15mins and turned the car back on, decided to try again. Everything works now I haven't taken anything apart yet but now I'm curious what caused it to temporarily fail.
After 30 mins of the car being on I decided to roll the windows up but the switch was dead again.
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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My friend's 2012 Elantra's driver's door lock has started acting up intermittently. Sometimes the door locks, sometimes it doesn't. It won't do it on command so it can't be taken to the dealer to be looked at. Has this problem been cropping up on the 2012 models? He has had it for almost 2 years and has about 22000 miles.
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