My sons 1998 SL1 Saturn 163,000 miles on it runs extremely rough when you start it seems like it is running on 3 cylinders. However after 10 seconds of reving the engine up runs fine. Once it warms up runs and idles fine all day but after you shut it off it exhibits the same hard starting. It has new plugs and ignition wires on it. I'm thinking a cracked coil that as it warms up starts to work properly.
View 6 Replies1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
I have a 98 ranger with 2.5 and 225k mostly trouble free miles. This engine has never used a drop of oil and ran good. In Dec 3 miles from work started running poorly and sounded to knock the more I asked for power. The CEL started flashing I made it to work and it idled rough but more rpms smoothed out. Took it to mechanic says he did a compression check with little or no compression on #1 & #2. #3 & #4 fine must have broke rings. Doesn't seem right to lose 2 cylinders at the same time out of the blue. Could anything else be causing these symptoms or time for a heart transplant? He hasn't opened anything up yet.
View 6 RepliesA couple months ago my car (2001 Cavalier 2.4L) started running bad, it just happened one morning when I started it up. Its extremely rough idle at around 500 rpm for about 5 seconds and then it stalls out, if I rev it up with the pedal it'll stay going and you can smell gas coming out the exhaust. the car still drives but has almost no power. I changed the plugs and gaped them to spec of .050 as one of them was corroded really bad, that didn't work, so I replaced one of the ignition coil on the side of the corroded plug,I need to replace both ignition coils or the ignition control module isn't working right.
View 4 RepliesThe last few days I've noticed an extremely rough ride when in Normal Mode. In sport + mode I noticed a bit of a smoother ride where the bumps weren't as harsh. Which is the complete opposite of what's supposed to happen. My tire pressure is 36 and reaches 39-40 when hot. No clue why this is happening, should I be worried ? Should I lower the tire pressure a little maybe to much air is causing the harsh ride? Or should I reset the battery because my car is stuck in sport + mode when it should be normal.
View 5 RepliesMy brother-in-law brought me his 2004 Trailblazer that had an extremely rough idle and would die if ya thought about the air conditioner and all! So he had replaced the cam sensor, didn't work. He replaced the spark plugs didn't work. He replaced the fuel filter didn't work. So he asked me about it and ran across a fella talking about the CAM ACTUATOR SOLENOID and explained all about what to look for and such and low and behold new solenoid later purrs like a new one!!! It is look right above the power steering pump there is a plug in the side of the engine there with electric wires running to it.
One of the signs of being bad is oil inside that 2 wire plug just pull it off and look in it. Now to remove it you will have to take the power steering pump loose so it will move back out of the way so you can pull the solenoid out of the engine if ya get it out look on the end there are grooves running around it with little screens on them see if any are gone or coming apart, this usually sets a P0016 code which is stuff interfering with the sensors inside. If there is any oil in the plug or any screens missing then it will have to be replaced.
I replaced the thermostat and coolant now the car acts like it's running on 4 cylinders. It's a 1992 3.1. The car ran fine before I just can't figure out what I did. Its real hard starting ,runs extremely rough. And the cooling fans are coming on when cold. Disconnected the battery to to reset the computer. pulled the codes got 45 (rich).
View 6 RepliesRecently I brought my car for an oil change. They put the recommended full synthetic oil in and when I left the cel starting blinking and the car idling extremely rough. I brought the car immediately back (only drove ~1/4 mi.). They discovered that they put too much oil in the car. Despite their efforts of removing oil and changing filter x2, they could not get the cel to stop blinking or the car running correctly. I brought the car to the closest repair facility with diagnostic capability and they noted the car was still 1qt overfull and multiple misfire, and cam shaft actuator codes were happening. Car was towed to dealership where they diagnosed fouled plugs attributed to too much oil. Oil change facility paid towing, repair and diagnostic bills for their mistake. In the subsequent 2 weeks my car was towed two more times to dealership. Once for going into limp mode after misfires and once for fuel pump dying. Is this all a coincidence or could this be repercussions from botched oil change? Dealership says it is just coincidental.
Car is a 2007 Mercedes clk350 cabriolet.
This morning when I started my car the RPMs were all over the place. The engine would rev to just below 2k and then drop, as it it were gonna die and right before it did, it would rev back up. Then, when I tried to move it, it would not accelerate and would hardly move and while coasting it dies if the clutch is depressed. The car does not die when idling (albeit a very rough idle) but it does when it is moving.
It flashed a check engine for a few seconds at one point but went away and has not come back on. I am running APR Stg 1 and a Carbonio intake. I switched from 93 octane mode to stock and nothing changed.
When driving in Sport Mode I have a violent down shift as the car slows and heads into second gear from third. It doesn't seem to matter if I am going 40 miles an hour around town or 70 miles an hour coming off the freeway. There has been a few times where the jerk is so hard that seatbelt tensioner tightens. Is this a normal aggressive function of the sport setting, or is this something else? Perhaps related to the transmission valve/hard second gear shift issue?
View 24 RepliesA week and a half ago I went out to my truck to go somewhere and I got about 2 blocks away and the truck started running really rough and had a big lack of power, so I turned around and scanned it with my code reader and the codes I got were p2271, p2196, p0303, p0012, p2197, and p2272. since then I've changed all the spark plugs, boots, swapped all the coils and injectors from a great running truck, fuel filter, and the bank 1 upstream O2 sensor.
the other thing that came to mind that could of caused the problem is that a few days before the problem started. I jump started a co-workers car and he hooked the cables up backwards on his car. Could this be the cause of the problems I'm having.
The truck is an 05 F150 FX4 5.4 with 180,000 miles on it.
My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
I own a Trailblazer 02' LS and its at 152,000 miles at this point. I am currently debating on whether its a better strategy to fix this current issue (explained further below) or start saving for another vehicle.
The problem I am having is the truck will sound extremely rough at random periods when im off the gas pedal. Sometimes it will try and shut off but comes back to me when jam on the gas pedal. Also sometimes during all of this, The oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and go back up once I hit the gas pedal.
Random things: AC buttons 1-4 don't work but 5 does sometimes. It also Idles at 500 RPM's instead of 1000 like I've seen on other newer cars.
I have a 87 ford ranger pickup, it is running extremely ruff. You can smell the exhaust and it smells super rich and is even spitting fuel out of he exhaust. when I bought the truck the wires were cut on he oxygen sensor, so I put a new oxygen sensor in it hoping that it would lean out the fuel. The truck has duel tanks on it, but the back one is off and it is draining fuel out of the line when it is running. I don't know if the catalytic converters are plugged too, the truck only has 65,000 miles in it. or maybe its a vacuum line leak?
View 4 RepliesTried starting the truck, fired ran good for a couple seconds, then ran extremely rough for a couple seconds then died.
I did some research and changed the ICP because there was oil in the connector so even if it wasnt causing my issue i wanted to replace it.
Now I have the same issue but it will actually run a little longer and not stall. I thought it was fixed so i took it for a drive, after about 3 miles it bogged down and i was able to make it home with half throttle going about 30mph. Sounds almost like its running on half the cylinders. i unplugged the ICP and it continued to run that way.
I had done the 50cent mod a few years back with the peices from ford but i know the harnesses themselves can wear through so i checked the resistance between the center pin and the two pins to the right and left for both the injector harness and they had about 3ohms.
I am leaning towards an IPR but from the reading i have done it seams like most trucks will not restart after they die. I have AE so i am going to hook it up later today, just wanted some reccomendations on what to look at.
I also remember when i shut it off the unplug the ICP to see if it would clear up the needles on the gauges did a full sweep as if i disconnected the battery which i though was weird.
I have a 1998 Saturn SL1. My problem that I am having is I can start the car maybe once a day if I am lucky. About 2 minutes later it just dies.
The car has full electrical power and I can turn the starter over and fuel pump sounds like its working. I am pretty sure its not sparking.
I have a '98 Saturn SL2(?) and it's loud. My dad bought it for me at an auction 2 years ago and I haven't had any major problems with the car minus the loudness. The only thing that's been replaced is the radiator but the car was loud before that. And by "loud" I mean that the engine runs pretty loud. One of my older brothers told me before that my car sounds like a tank. It does get quieter as I drive the car more but still overall pretty loud. Also, my car vibrates sometimes- varying from a small vibrating noise to vibrations strong enough to vibrate my rear view mirror.
Now I haven't had any major problems with the car (as I mentioned before) and I'm wondering if I'm just used to my parents having quiet cars and the loudness is no big deal. I might need this car for a fairly long drive soon and hope that maybe my car is just meant to be louder than most.
I got into my 1998 Saturn SL2 (Gold) and the stick shift was entirely loose. It is like the stick is no longer connected to anything. What the problem is and how much it might cost to fix? Keep in mind, the car has almost 230K miles on it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 95 Saturn s-series with trouble starting when cold. Sometimes it take 5-10 minutes to get it started. When it does start it is all you can do to keep it running. I have had it to 2 different repair shops spending way too much to not have the problem fixed.
View 30 RepliesI have a 2000 Saturn SL 1 and it takes about 20 minutes to get started and it started after the radiator was changed and I am losing coolant and I noticed a leak around the flex on the exhaust pipe could this be the starting problem?
View 2 RepliesI recently left my lights on on my 2001 Saturn S series. (I also recently had a car stereo installed, don't know if it's relevant). I jumpstarted the car and now I get an odd chiming at startup. When I arm the alarm the arming honk is as loud as the alarm itself. It used to be a more modest honk. Any thoughts on what might have happened during the jumpstart or how I can correct these issues?
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