1995 Saab 900 Turbo. Bought new. Lifetime history of complete battery discharge if not driven at least every 2 weeks. New alternator, multiple batteries of no benefit. Have left on flowmeter for up to 1 week at dealer service center without unusual demand on battery.
View 1 RepliesMy F250 is acting like the battery is almost dead but its not. I've checked all the grounds I can think of, used jumper cables and clamped right to the body and still nothing. I put my battery charger in place of the battery and my charger almost caught fire! Where are all the ground points at and points to check? It was doing fine then this. I only found 3 ground points on the block and I bypassed all of them and nothing. There are 2 large on the front of the block, I was able to get one loose and "clean" it but not the other. The block to firewall is currently off so I can clean it in the morning.
But it didn't do anything. I can clamp anywhere are get the same results. There are a few threads about this truck and trying to get it back into shape. When it worked, when I turned the key on, gauges worked, RABS, Engine, and Battery light came on, GPs kicked on, etc... now, I get a very faint Batt light, Erie dinging, and not even the stereo now. This truck has been an electrical nightmare since day one. Spent 4 days on just under hood electronics alone. Haven't even moved towards the back. Also, Instead of using a 2/0 AWG wire to the starter, Can I use two 1/0 AWG wires to it instead since they used two separate grounds? It also still has a 2G alt.
2005 Camry a/c will not stay charged. Charge it up works about a week then loses Freon. A/C machine finds no problem when pulling vacuum or charging. Is there one place where most 2005's leak their Freon? Can't find any threads listing a major problem other than the blinking A/C light, which mine is fine.
View 4 RepliesRecently replaced alternator on Volvo 240 dl (covered under warranty). Battery checked numerous times and comes back as working perfectly fine. For some reason the battery is not taking a charge from the alternator or something is draining the battery too fast for the alternator to charge the battery. Regardless, after driving the car to and from the car either will not start (but jump starts instantly).
Upon the car breaking down yet again today and attempting to drive it home the car lost all power and shut down while driving down the road. The first noticeable thing was the gas gauge dropping slowly from 3/4 to empty and then all power loss. Upon hooking jumper cables up and 'charging' by another vehicle the Volvo would again drive for a short period of time before the same thing happened.
I charged the battery and now it wont stay idling? Plus I have step on the gas to start it. What it could be? Its got a full tank of gas .
View 1 RepliesMy car began to not start almost every other time i tried to start without being jumped and now will not start at all without being jumped. the battery won't stay charged and I bought the battery brand new 6 months ago.
1987 chevy cavalier, over 100,000 miles....
My battery want stay charged in my Mercury. I want to know if the light control module could cause it to drain....
View 2 Replies1999 Saab 9-3 2.0/turbo, manual, 159K miles. Barely replaced turbo (with new turbo) at 154K miles. Had sluggish power after new turbo installment. I had informed saab mechanic that the car felt sluggish upon receipt, to which he replied I could pay extra for a "performance" tune up. But, now months later the loss of power problem has worsened. Since I paid dearly for a complete new turbo installation I'd expect the same level performance as prior to the old turbo going out.
To be clear: no turbo power upon acceleration, slight whirring noise heard when stepping on gas, turbo pressure gauge stays near end of white zone, barely top of white, but needle doesn't leave white into yellow zone as it's suppose to when full gas is given or when revving up rpms to 4800 while switching gears.... absolutely no power, nothing. I'm relying on down-gearing for some engine power when going uphill - tis' that bad. Also, no black smoke or indicator lights. In researching people mention both vacuum hoses or waste gate come up as possible culprits to turbo-related power loss.
My son has a Saab 9-3 that we have spent several thousand dollars on repairing since we bought it for $3200 less than a year ago.The car has a little less than 100,000 miles on it. Now have about $7300 in it. Had motor rebuilt, water pump replaced and several other more minor repairs. Was driving it this weekend when he heard a loud whining sound then a puff of black smoke boiled out of the exhaust. It still turns over and runs but we had it towed to a shop. My husband things the turbo is shot. Could it be something other than the whole turbo having to be replaced? If it does, is this going to cost a fortune? Should we even put any more into this car? We have so much in it now that we hate to throw it away, but afraid of other major repairs adding to what we have already put in it.
View 1 RepliesAm wrestling with the ever-present value/worth question. My '95 Saab 9000 Aero developed a leaky head gasket at 155,000 miles. I had it replaced (after driving it several hundred miles over a week or so). The engine then became and continues to be hard to start. It idles roughly, and even stalls out when decelerating for intersections. The shop says that two cylinders have low compression. (no details on why) They suggested adding injector cleaner to the fuel, which did not solve the problem, or installing a new (used) motor.
View 19 RepliesMy 95 civic lossed all power slowly while doin 70mph on the freeway in 5th gear and wouldn't accelerate no matter how much gas i gave it. My battery lihht came on at the same time. I just put a new engine, transmission, distributor, engine mounts. Where I should start looking for a problem first.
View 16 Replies6.7 Boost ... Under full acceleration does the turbo go to 40 PSI or stay in the middle at 20?
View 4 RepliesI have my 1995 Volvo 940 Turbo that stalls in reverse and hesitates on take off. The following is a breakdown of what has been done so far:
1. Initial Issue from March to October is hard starts; it would take 15 minutes or more to start car; it would be longer sometimes in cold weather.
2. Car would have erratic idle after startup; car reaches operating temperature before movement; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow;
car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; car bogs down on braking with idle lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
3. Issue of hard start would be intermittent; it would be less prominent in hot weather and more prominent in cold weather.
4. Sometimes in rain or wet weather, car would stall and sometimes backfire; Distributor Cap is normally changed.
5. By October, a no-start condition occurs.
6. Car starts now, idle is not erratic; car would bog down in idle and die only in reverse; you barely tap gas to keep from dying in reverse; initial acceleration from takeoff is slow; car
putts a little; car runs fine once out of first gear from takeoff; exhaust flows strongly; takeoff slightly improves incrementally with continued operation; car bogs down on braking with idle
lowering; sometimes car stalls at braking; gas is sometimes tapped slightly to stop stalling.
7. During idle or operation, sometimes coolant will boil in reservoir; toggle fan brings temp down to normal in between fan cycles; toggle fan keeps coolant temp normal in really hot weather.
The following parts have been changed and are still prominently new:
-Ignition Coil
-Spark Plug Wires
-Spark Plugs
-Distributor Cap (Initially Sealed With Sealant, Condensation Issue When Raining Causes Stalling)
-Rotor Button
-Condensation Cap For Distributor Cap (No Need For Sealant Now)
-K&N Air Filter
-Turbo Intake Hose (Original Had Disentegration In Spots)
-Exhaust Manifold Gasket (With New Locking Nuts and Sealant On Manifold Side, Not Block Side)
-Power Stage (Ignition Module or Ignition Stage Amplifier)
-Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
-Gauge Temperature Sensor
-Knock Sensor
-All Vacuum Hoses
-All Coolant Hoses (Including Oil Cooler Hoses)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Oxygen Sensor
-Catalytic Converter (Honeycomb In Original Rattles, Discovered Gone When Removed)
-Exhaust Resonator/Central Muffler (Original Damaged By Honeycomb, Sounded Like Broken Glass, Baffles More Than Likely Clogged)
-Idle Air Control Valve
-Starter Solenoid (Starter Tested Good)
-Power Brake Booster (Original Replaced, Failed 2 Out Of Three Brake Pedal/Vacuum Tests)
-Battery
-Radio Suppression Relay
-Throttle Position Sensor
-Fuel Filter
-Timing Belt and Tensioner
-Crankshaft Position Sensor (Last In Chain, Resolved No-Start For Now)
The following are checkpoints, mods, and maintenance:
1. Modded Airbox for more airflow, no codes present from OBD before or after
2. Cleaned MAF Sensor with MAF Sensor Cleaner, no codes present from OBD before or after
3. Checked EGR Valve - Diaphram not broken, free movement, appears functioning
4. Had EGR Pipe Rewelded - Pipe broke from connection to throttle body, completely sealed and functional, Minimal Carbon Removed
5. No codes from EGR temp sensor before or after
6. Checked EGR Vacuum Controller through OBD - appears functional
7. Checked Fuel Pump - Repaired frayed hot wire, sealed, pump fully functioning
8. Checked Fuel Pump Relay - Functioning
9. Properly adjusted Idle Air Speed - Steady Between 700-800 RPM
10. Checked EGR Pipe to Exhaust Manifold - Minimal Carbon Removed
11. Cleaned Throttle Body with Throttle Body Cleaner - No Soot/Carbon exiting system
12. Created Toggle with Fuse in between connection, connected to slot in fuse box, cuts off with car, slight battery drain issue before and after installation
13. Checked oil in case - oil change still new, no milky appearance suggested head issues
14. Removed and cleaned breather box - no oil deposits clogging operation
15. Checked charcoal canister - stalling in reverse happens with and without it connected
16. Checked muffler during disassembly of exhaust system - no honeycomb/debris present during testing
17. Car is at Top Dead Center - Timing
18. Fuel Injectors tested fine with OBD and Pressure present at rail
The following parts have not been changed yet:
-Charcoal Box
-MAF Sensor (No Codes)
-EGR (No Codes)
-EGR Vac Controller (No Codes)
-Compressor (No A/C, issue with stalling is unrelated)
-Power Steering Pump (Slight squeaking on rotation, PB Blaster in bearing area confirms, issue with stalling unrelated)
Other Issues : Slight battery drain coming from somewhere in the car, have to remove negative from battery for now
I am new to my car. It is an '95 turbo wagon with a 5 speed conversion and a ARP orange ECU. The issue is the car is holding shift rpm for 4-5 seconds after I take my foot off the gas. Since I am taking the load off the motor when I clutch in, it actually climbs higher before it drops off. Needless to say it is not really drivable in traffic that way! The idle rpm is ok and the car pulls really well when accelerating. I have checked for vacuum leaks and I am heading for the Idle Air Control valve. I don't think the engine has any other mods and it is pretty high milage (188k).
View 1 RepliesWill a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo engine wear out / break down / fail sooner than a 2011 Chevy Cruze 1.8L engine ( w/o the turbo ) ? Both being automatic transmissions. Driven by the same person. What is the gas mileage difference between the same two ?
View 17 RepliesI've watched the DVD, I've browsed through the manual and I still don't understand this car. After 2 weeks, I have 150 miles on the car and the battery display has never shown it to be more than half charged - mostly under half, like only highlighting/reading 3 bars. I'm averaging 28 mpg. I've driven in power mode and EV mode and neither seems to make a difference to the mpg. I've been on the Hwy with it, but due to construction zones haven't had it up past 60 mph. Most of the miles have been racked up on roads with speed limits of 35/40 mph. I guess what I'm asking, primarily, is should I be concerned about the battery not fully charging? And, is there a break-in period with this car like there was/is with American made autos?
View 19 RepliesPIP does not charge the plug in battery while driving....
View 19 RepliesI just got my Prius v for few days. I noticed that I only saw the battery bar fully charged once and for a very short time. Also, when I idle my car for a period, the battery would drop to three to two bars. Is it normal or there is a problem to my battery? I got 49500 miles on it,
View 14 RepliesToday I was driving up to the highlands, and there is a hill I have to climb called 2 mile hill, it's an 8% grade, I started the climb with 7 green bars on the display, and the engine revved to what sounded like full pace (5000rpm) but I paid attention to the battery and it was actually being charged despite the situation. I got to the top of the hill and the battery was showing all 8 green bars. I'm shocked because I was going uphill at 65-70 MPH and it fully charged the traction battery.
I thought I heard a couple years ago that every couple months, the Prius will do this thing where it will fully charge the battery or something like that because of memory effect of the cells? Why it did this?
I have a 2006 Pontiac Vibe. Yesterday my Check Engine light came on while driving. It's done this before and randomly gone away. My car has been in the shop twice in the past month for routine maintenance.
The light annoys me, so I disconnected the battery and reconnected it a few minutes later. The car wouldn't start. I jumped it. It started, I let it idle, turned it off, and it's dead again. I did the same once more. Still dead.
So, my family "mechanic" says I probably didn't connect the terminals well enough, and that it might just need to be adjusted (in all fairness, I'm playing the stupid girl card here). He said worst case scenario is that I randomly need a new alternator (I doubt this based on the circumstances), and it's possible I might need a new battery (I think I replaced it three years ago, but maybe I didn't).
Short version is that my battery is not staying charged. I drive the car daily and am not having any serious issues except for having to put a charger on overnight about once a month or so since this past winter. The current battery (Optima red top) has never gone dead and has been more reliable than the original, it just cranks progressively slower each time I start the car until the day comes that I decide to put the charger on again.
All the lights flicker and dim when driving at night, and have been like that for a few years. When it began, I had the charging system checked three separate times. Once at the dealership who told me everything was fine, once at an Advance Auto who said all was well except for there being an above normal load on the battery with the engine/all accessories off , and once at an alternator/electric motor specialist who said all was well except that the alternator was not capable of generating enough to keep the battery charged long term. They said if I ever got stuck in traffic and sat at idle with the ac/stereo on for an extended period that I shouldn't shut it off since I may not have enough power to crank it again . At first I thought they were going to suggest that I have them repair/rebuild/upgrade it somehow, but they really had no interest in doing so.