Saab - 900 :: 1993 - Unusual Vibration When Stopped In Gear
Jun 13, 2012
I have problem that I've noticed since I bought my Saab 900 equipped with the automatic transmission and am finally deciding to try to address it. Just to clarify, I've cleaned the filter, changed the fluid multiple times to freshen the ATF in the torque converter and it shifts really nicely, actually. The motor is smooth as silk, too. Here's my problem: with the shifter in "D" at a stop sign or cross walk, and my foot on the brake pedal, the car vibrates strongly. In fact, it's even popped my hood open on a couple occasions. However, if it's idling in "P" there's no vibrations that are out of the ordinary and it holds nicely to 900 RPM either way (I have recently cleaned the IAC valve).
Suspecting my brakes weren't grabbing well, I recently replaced the accumulator on my ABS system and had the fluid flushed and refilled at a trusted independent import shop. It brakes great, so I don't suspect it's the brakes. Since the transmission, motor and brakes are great, I can only suspect the motor or transmission mounts, but that doesn't explain to me why the problem would occur at specific times only.
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Replaced both MC & slave. Replaced fluid and and hose. Everything worked fine foe a few days and then back to square one. Clutch lost pressure and cannot get car in gear.
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I am having with our 2010 Santa Fe GLS (2.4L). Whenever I am stopped and in gear, I have an excessive about of engine vibration IMHO, my wife thinks not, but it just doesn't feel right to me. I can feel it in the seat and people sitting in the passenger side and in the back can also feel it. If I bump into neutral or am accelerating, the vibration goes away. I have no issues with hesitation or loss of power and no other issues/check engine light, etc. This has been happening since we purchased the vehicle, and I mentioned it to the dealer and was given the response that the engine needed sufficient time to be broken in...... I now have 15,000 miles and it still is an issue.
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I have this howling sound in the back that is like heavy tread tires. But thats not what it is. Had to have some work done at a shop (no choice) and they noted on the receipt a "horrible noise".
This is any speed, accelerating and decelerating and coasting in neutral. I checked the fluid in the diff, it is filled to the hole, has good color, smells ok, and no metal on plug. The carrier bearing appears bulged out in one area but the shaft is tight. There is no unusual vibration. The shop did say that I need rotors in the rear.
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My F-150 has developed a rattle and vibration at idle that only occurs with the truck in gear and stopped (with the brake depressed.) The noise appears to be coming from the front of the truck, perhaps from the driver's side (though it's difficult to tell while sitting in the cab).
Before I go crawling around underneath with my son holding the brake while the truck is in drive--I would sure like to know where it might be best to point the flashlight.
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I have a 98 saab 900 se turbo.90000 miles on it. Just had a new clutch kit/throwout bearing and master cylinder clutch installed, as the clutch was going bad.
When I shift the car (while driving) from 2nd into 3rd/4th/5th gear,and accelerate I suddenly notice what sounds like a "grinding"/raspy noise that stays with the car while in those gears. It does not occur in 1st or 2nd , although it seems that in first gear the rpms go up real fast now (could the gears be slipping again?? this is a brand new clutch..).
The second I shift to 3rd gear and give it gas, the noise shows up instantly. Now when I let my foot off the gas, the noise goes away 100%. The second I give it gas again, it comes back. Also I don't believe the noise increases or decreases in relation to the speed of the vehicle. It seems to stay constant no matter what speed I'm at, as long as I'm actively giving it gas.
It occurs every time I drive..not sure what to do and what causes this..maybe I just need to check the transmission fluid?
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I recently bought a manual 92 saab, and in the past few days I have been having trouble with the 5th gear. The fluids are all fine and I have not put any real strain on the trans since I've had the car. It worked fine when I bought it but now when I try to put it in 5th there is a loud grinding noise as I let the clutch out. The shifter then pops back into neutral. I tried holding the shifter in 5th to see if that would work, and as I release the clutch the grinding noise gets louder and the gear does not engage at all. I am really hoping it is just a worn down part, and doesn't need a complete transmission overhaul.
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Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
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I have a 1993 Chrysler Lebaron and the power steering on it just stopped working today. It was low on power steering fluid and I replaced the fluid but it still doesn't work. I can't find anything related on the Internet.
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My tail lights have recently stopped working. When I use blinkers, they are slow, and don't blink if brakes are pressed. The brakes show as a very faint light that cannot be seen in day time. I turned on the hazards to look myself, and they started beeping. I called GMC support and it's too old for them to still know anything about it. I checked the fuses for the rear end and they are both working.
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I got the clutch replaced on my 1993 Toyota Corolla (~160,000mi.) by a shop and immediately afterward started having really bad front end vibration problems. I took it back to the shop & they said that changing the clutch may have caused already worn out motor mount(s) to be stressed and that was causing the vibration. They want time with the car to figure out which motor mount it might be. My question is, is it reasonable that a properly performed clutch change caused the motor mount problems? Or is this the result of sloppy work? I realize the car is old, but I have always maintained it well since I bought it in 2004.
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My 1993 Mustang GT 5.0 will not go in to 2nd gear. It's the AOD and it goes into 1st, 3rd and OD just fine. I've heard there a pressure bolt that set the pressure in the trans and that it may be why I can't go into 2nd. And I've also heard that my TV cable may be stretched.
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A friend has a 1993 4x4 Z71 automatic that has lost 2nd gear. He has drained the fluid and it does not smell burnt and color is fine. He does notice what seems like dust in it but it has no texture when try to feel the dust. The fluid did seem to have some sludge like gunk in bottom of container He drained it into.
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I have a 1993 4WD Toyota extended cab pickup with 200,000 miles on it that is getting hard to shift into first gear. I have to double/triple clutch run through the gears to get it to shift into first. It is not hard to shift all the time but the issue is getting more and more frequent.
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I have a 93 explorer it ran fine then when I drove it today it stalled put it in park it started but wont go into gear when shifted?
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I drive a '93 Toyota T100 with a manual transmission. Up until recently things were going great but I've noticed it is damn near impossible to shift from reverse back into first gear when I'm pulling out of my driveway. I've also found that shifting from first gear to second has become more difficult as well though not impossible. However if I'm shifting to third, fourth, or fifth gears I don't have any problem whatsoever. I had the transmission redone about a year ago after the clutch gave out so I'm hoping its not that.
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I was recently driving my 1993 Volvo 240 wagon over the Bourne Bridge in bumper to bumper traffic (surprise!). Traffic was moving at 3-5 mph as I navigated the rotary and ascended the bridge. Needless to say, I was developing leg cramps as traffic crawled up the steep bridge incline. Once I crested the hill, I shifted to neutral (still 3-5mph to coast down the decline and give my leg a rest. After coasting for a few minutes I attempted to shift into second gear to re-engage the transmission.
I was unable to slip the gear shift stick into any gear! I continued to make sure that I was depressing the clutch all the way to the floor, but still could not muscle the stick into a single gear (by the way, I never smelled that "burning clutch smell"). After about a minute or more of mental disaster planning, I finally coerced the shift into third gear. A minute or so later, I was able to shift into second gear which got me around the accident causing the delay and onto the highway. From that point on, I was able to shift normally for the remainder of the 2 hour trip. What happened and what could I have done to solve the problem? (The car is now at the repair shop where they are equally perplexed).
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I went to put the van in park, and the gear shifter just went all floppy in my hand. I was able to wiggle/jostle it around and get it into neutral or drive, but nothing else. Tow truck driver crawled under the van, and put it into drive for me, and told me it was probably just going to need a new cable or link shaft (tube shaped thing)... My hubby usually fixes these things, but is now living 1700 miles away.
Anyway, the shop called me and said I needed a new steering column, and said something about the 'lower' cap or half??? He quoted me $340 for the job. I am not getting the connection between the gear shifter being loose/floppy and the steering column needing to be replaced? Is this right?
It is a 1993 Aerostar, 3.0 by the way...
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A friend of mine at work has a 93 4wd explorer. A4ld transmission. Reverse quit working, and no matter what gear you put it in, reverse, neutral, or park, it will stay in drive. Park holds itself, but if you give it gas, it tries to pull. He says when it's in reverse, it's almost like it's stuck in reverse and forward, it wants to rock. He pulled the pan, no metal shavings, and pulled the valve body. He said the screws holding the valve body were finger tight. The gasket underneath had a small tear in it, he doesn't know if he did this pulling it out or not. He replaced those gaskets and retorqued the valve body. When he put it in reverse and topped off fluid, reverse worked. He put it in drive and it worked, but when he put it back in reverse, it stayed in drive and is staying in drive in all gear selections again. He bought this explorer new, and the transmission had never been into before.
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Not only will it not go into gear, truck will not start unless clutch is to the floor, and in neutral (it's only possible place) if you pick the pedal up 1/4 inch off the floor the odometer starts spinning around 1 mile in 5 seconds.... if you lift it any more it kills the engine like you shut it off with the key.... odometer reads 99,004 miles now (the last 2 are mine) I bought this truck like this ....
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I have a 93 taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. After I start my car up with my foot on the brake it won't shift into gear from park. But if I pump the brakes a few times it will then go into gear. What is wrong with my car?
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