Replaced both MC & slave. Replaced fluid and and hose. Everything worked fine foe a few days and then back to square one. Clutch lost pressure and cannot get car in gear.
View 3 RepliesI have problem that I've noticed since I bought my Saab 900 equipped with the automatic transmission and am finally deciding to try to address it. Just to clarify, I've cleaned the filter, changed the fluid multiple times to freshen the ATF in the torque converter and it shifts really nicely, actually. The motor is smooth as silk, too. Here's my problem: with the shifter in "D" at a stop sign or cross walk, and my foot on the brake pedal, the car vibrates strongly. In fact, it's even popped my hood open on a couple occasions. However, if it's idling in "P" there's no vibrations that are out of the ordinary and it holds nicely to 900 RPM either way (I have recently cleaned the IAC valve).
Suspecting my brakes weren't grabbing well, I recently replaced the accumulator on my ABS system and had the fluid flushed and refilled at a trusted independent import shop. It brakes great, so I don't suspect it's the brakes. Since the transmission, motor and brakes are great, I can only suspect the motor or transmission mounts, but that doesn't explain to me why the problem would occur at specific times only.
A friend has a 1993 4x4 Z71 automatic that has lost 2nd gear. He has drained the fluid and it does not smell burnt and color is fine. He does notice what seems like dust in it but it has no texture when try to feel the dust. The fluid did seem to have some sludge like gunk in bottom of container He drained it into.
View 1 RepliesI have my suspicion about what is the culprit, and well, the likelihood of it contuing to work.
Occasionally when I am at a stop and try to shift into gear with the clutch depressed to the floor, it does not want to go into gear. So far, I have been able to wiggle the shifter around, try a few different gears then go back to first and it works. Also at a stoplight today, with the clutch depressed to the floor for a few minutes with the car in 1st, after about 3-5 minutes the car started to slowly creep forward.
What are your suspects on this one?
My clutch pedal has started squeaking every time I step on it (seems to work fine otherwise). If I hit it with WD-40, is there any risk of lubricating something that shouldn't be lubricated?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1993 Chevy Silverado rwd automatic 350 5.7. It died on me on the way to work this morning. It slowly lost power and acceleration. The lights and radio all worked. When I tried to restart, it tried to start but then just cranked like it had no fuel or spark.
I had it towed home and checked the following things. I removed the fuel filter, it is clear. I verified that the fuel pump was working by turn the key to the on position while the filter was off. Good stream of fuel. I verified that there was fuel to the TBI. Good spray while cranking. I verified that there was spark by pulling a plug out, connecting to the wire and cranking the engine. Spark seemed weak but there was spark. The front plugs were dry, but the rear plugs, especially #8 was very wet. I verified the timing by pulling the #1 plug, removing the distributor cap and checked the rotor position. I bumped the engine to get the #1 piston to the top of the cylinder and the rotor was point directly at the #1 plug wire. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires are only 1 month old.
I also tried to check the ignition coil by disconnecting the coil wire from coil, and slid the boot back to expose the contact. I held it just of the coil while the engine was cranked, but did not actually see a spark at the coil. I did not hear any arcing. I pulled another plug and checked for spark. Again i had spark. Just seems weak to me. I am on my way to the auto parts store to get a new coil.
I have a 4l60e transmission that was rebuilt less than 500 miles ago, I was driving on the highway when all gears were lost. There is clicking in the front part of transmission. Can I just replace pump? Fluid is clean no pieces in pan, are cluthes still good?
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 saab 900 se turbo.90000 miles on it. Just had a new clutch kit/throwout bearing and master cylinder clutch installed, as the clutch was going bad.
When I shift the car (while driving) from 2nd into 3rd/4th/5th gear,and accelerate I suddenly notice what sounds like a "grinding"/raspy noise that stays with the car while in those gears. It does not occur in 1st or 2nd , although it seems that in first gear the rpms go up real fast now (could the gears be slipping again?? this is a brand new clutch..).
The second I shift to 3rd gear and give it gas, the noise shows up instantly. Now when I let my foot off the gas, the noise goes away 100%. The second I give it gas again, it comes back. Also I don't believe the noise increases or decreases in relation to the speed of the vehicle. It seems to stay constant no matter what speed I'm at, as long as I'm actively giving it gas.
It occurs every time I drive..not sure what to do and what causes this..maybe I just need to check the transmission fluid?
I recently bought a manual 92 saab, and in the past few days I have been having trouble with the 5th gear. The fluids are all fine and I have not put any real strain on the trans since I've had the car. It worked fine when I bought it but now when I try to put it in 5th there is a loud grinding noise as I let the clutch out. The shifter then pops back into neutral. I tried holding the shifter in 5th to see if that would work, and as I release the clutch the grinding noise gets louder and the gear does not engage at all. I am really hoping it is just a worn down part, and doesn't need a complete transmission overhaul.
View 6 RepliesMy left brake caliper locks up on me. I have replace it, the brakes , and the wheel bearings. when im driving down the highway and go between 45 -55 my front end shakes really bad and i start to lose power.
View 8 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 1993 corolla, with a little over 200,000 miles on it, manual transmission. It has been running great until a couple days ago. Driving back from Seattle, we noticed the car hesitating while driving. With the gas applied, it seemed as if the car was hesitating forward and backward, it seemed as if the engine wasn't getting enough gas. This happens in all gears, but less so in 5th I think. The next morning, while stopped with the clutch in, the car seemed to be always on the verge of dying out, with the RPMs dropping, and then revving back up constantly, right before it seemed the engine would die. The engine hasn't actually cut out yet, but it seemed very close. We shifted into neutral and the same problem was happening, so I don't think it's a clutch problem.
View 8 RepliesI just had the front seals replaced in my 93 accord standard shift wagon. After about 4 days the clutch started feeling "soft" and now it's almost down to the floor in order to engage it. I wonder if this has anything to do with the seal replacement?
View 14 RepliesI need to replace the fan clutch on my 1993 Ford E150 Club Wagon 4.9L Chateau. The original part, YB466 has been replaced. The new ones are all too long and the fan will hit the radiator. The original is 2-3/8" long front to back, including the nut. The replacement ones available are 2-5/8" or longer. I have talked to our local machinist, and he says the new parts cannot be made shorter. The water pump shaft is not long enough to allow shortening. He says look for a shorter water pump.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1993 Grand Caravan 3.3L V6. When I leave the van set for a couple a of days (or even overnight) and then start it, I have no oil pressure for a minute or so. After the engine has been running for about a minute or so the oil pressure finally comes up but not to normal. Once the engine has warmed up the oil pressure returns to what could be considered "normal". After the cold start, no oil pressure problem, the engine and the oil pressure is fine for the rest of the day. Let it even set overnight though and I have a repeat no oil pressure with start up.
I am thinking that there is a problem with the pick up tube not sealing properly and allowing the oil to bleed down while the engine is off for an extended period of time. So, in effect, I have to basically prime the oil pump at each start up. I haven't noticed any leaks of engine oil anywhere, so I am thinking that this is an internal problem. Is there a check valve or O-Ring associated with the pick up tube or oil pump that may cause this problem? Is it a fairly easy problem to correct? On this engine the oil pump is located in the front of the engine block behind the timing chain cover. (As best as I could determine from the Haynes Manual).
I'm not very mechanical when it comes to cars. I have never had any clutch issue with my car. I arrived to work yesterday fine. When I started to leave it was incredibly hard to get into reverse and I had to force shifting after I left and the clutch had also lost all resistance and I could easily push it all the way to the ground. What could be a cause of the clutch always working perfect including the last time you drove it, and then 8 hours later you start up and it has done a 180. The fluid level is fine. I would presume if my clutch had went I have have slowly noticed it going.
View 1 RepliesI have lost fuel pressure within 10 minutes of a fill up. I have an APR Stage2+ set up. I have added octane booster . Fault codes are showing loss of pressure. Is it possible my HPFP rebuild has taken after like 15K miles?:bang head: Also could be clogged fuel filter or injector I am aware.
View 9 RepliesThe oil pressure gauge is dancing on my 4.2L '99 Ford E-150 (V-6) and at times the oil light comes on but there's no rattling or other signs of oil deficiency in the engine. I'm pretty sure it's a problem with the sending unit and did an oil change today but for the life of me couldn't find where it's located. I looked all around the filter when I replaced it but to no avail. The Haynes manual and internet pics I find are not recognizable parts in them to reference. I can't tell if they're looking under the car, on top, driver's side etc.
View 11 RepliesI have a 1993 protege that was previously not having any issues. I recently had a mobile mechanic replace my axle after it broke. Since then I have had issues with the rpm's increasing but the speed staying the same or decreasing. This happens mostly uphill and especially when the vehicle is cold. Is there another reason this can occur besides a bad clutch?
View 17 Replies93 Ranger, 4.0 liter, 4WD.....
Putting in a new clutch and clutch release bearing, and am wondering if I need to put the retaining ring in that came with the new clutch release bearing? When I took off the old release bearing, a ring did come off from somewhere, but I did not see where it was because it was so dirty.
The reason I ask is because my Haynes manual did not even mention a ring, so I was surprised to see one come off. And my manual does not say to reinstall the ring when installing the release bearing. I did get a newer Haynes manual at the library and looked through a bunch of Chilton, etc manuals.
The newer Haynes manual says to remove the retaining ring on 97 and newer models, but says nothing about putting it back in when reinstalling. So, I am not certain if I need to put a new retaining ring in with the new release bearing.
I have a 1993 Chevy C1500, and about 3 weeks ago I started noticing that whenever it gets to temp I start hearing a knocking coming from the valves, and I lose almost all oil pressure. I also lose a lot of power. What could be causing this? Am I looking at a full on engine rebuild?
View 3 Replies1993 TransSport 3.8: Where the heck is the oil pressure sending unit, and what is the best way to access it? What size of OPSU socket does it take; 1", 1 & 1/16", or 1 & 3/16". Do I need the 3/8" or 1/2" drive; extra deep or other wise? The van has a gauge on the dash.
View 6 Replies