I have a 2005 Saab 97x. It has auto-leveling air suspension. Recently, it seems to have developed a slow leak. When I drive all day, it is fine, but each morning when I go outside, the rear end is eight inches lower than it was when I parked it the night before. If I start up the car, the pump kicks in, and the rear end lifts to its proper level.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2015 sonata SE with the stock 16 inch kumho summer tires. One of the tires just developed a leak, a slow one, after 5 days psi drops from 34 to 28. I am guessing I ran over a nail? or maybe valve leak? I don't recall driving over a pothole or anything that would otherwise damage the tire or rims.
Now suppose it is a nail, is it dangerous to keep it in there? will it deteriorate the rubber even more? Or is it one of those things i can leave in there, and just keep pumping air every few days?
Just wondering is it worth it to bring it to the tire shop and have the check for where the leak is and have them patch it.
I have 3750 miles on my tires, when should i get it rotated and/or replaced? How does one replace tire since there is a TPMS system? is it easy to do without dealership?
Our 98 Saab's A/C seems to have a slow leak. Do-it-yourself, stop-leak, A/C recharges available at stores like Advance and NAPA Auto?
View 1 RepliesI fixed a slow tire leak today and in the process I examined the rear suspension closely. I had one rear corner jacked up and could easily see the difference in position of both rear wheels compared to the frame. The difference was only in the range of 1 inch. Mind you one wheel was in the air, and the other was bearing the doubled weight.
I also examined the substantial torsion bar with it's C-shaped cross-section and closed edges. I don't see how any additional anti-sway bars could benefit this very stiff arrangement.
I know that members that installed rear anti-sway bars raved about performance increase.
I had read that the auto leveling only works when you first turn on the lights. But, I have caught mine doing it in traffic. When I come to a stop behind a car, a second after the front end bounces back, I notice the beams dip down half of an inch, on the car in front of me. I have seen this a few times. Seems the auto level feature is always at work. Is this new for 2012?
View 5 RepliesThe auto leveling warning light has come on a couple of time now on my daughters 04 rx330. The lights do adjust when vehicle is started so the motors are working. I assume this leaves the sensor? I will also note that the lights are operated in the "auto" mode and the warning light has come on when just the daytime running lights are on. If this sounds like a sensor issue, great, probably a fix that I can take care of. 1st question, is there a sensor front and rear? And for question #2, where is it or they located?
View 1 RepliesSo, driving home from the meet & greet in DC yesterday and when I turned on the headlights, the auto-leveling light came on. It randomly came and went for a bit but was on continuously by the time we got home. Headlights work and are at the correct height. Lights cycle up/down when the key is turned. Other than the warning light, it appears to be working normally.
Of note, this was the first time using the lights after the airbag actuator recall last week. Not sure how it could be connected unless it is a dash connection issue. If not,how to isolate if or which sensor is causing the issue?
Just wondered if can use a floor jack to lift a vehicle but jacked directly on the torsion bar? Or let the vehicle rest on the torsion bar on a jackstand?
I have done this a few times with different vehicles and I guess didn't really think hard about it damaging anything, but was curious...
This winter my (air) suspension has developed a major squeak. I did a search and found nothing.....
View 1 Replies06 F350 with diesel and 6000lb springs. Installed bds leveling kit and the truck sat level. Then i bought a plow and mounted it. Well after this year the nose is down a little bit so i decided to buy new springs. I upgraded to the 7000lb springs, icon adj trac bar and dual stabilizer set up. Truck is still nose diving. Is there something that could be binding up?
View 1 RepliesI'm a new Mk4 R32 owner in the Portland area and my driver's front suspension developed a nasty squeak on the long drive home after buying the car. When you hit a pothole or any sort of bump it makes a nasty "clink" sound under compression/rebound. It's only on the driver's side front, and it seems to be a bushing/bearing or upper mount in the car when I got it up on Matrix Integrated's lift.
Also - the driver's front spring is squeaking since the powder coating flaked off after all the miles.
Thinking of buying a cheap set of coil overs to remedy this and refresh some of the more worn suspension items. Car drives just fine too.
I bought 02 convertible in 2012 with 100,0000 on it, now 122,000, love it other than it turns over very slow almost like its not going to start but it always does, we recently had it tuned up new fuel filter , battery and car still turns over very slow.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Saab 9-3. Whenever I come to a stop and press the accelerator it is slow to accelerate. The check engine light is on, too. The rpm's do not rev up and the car slowly creeps by then eventually will start to get going. I took it in to the mechanic and they told me I need a new throttle body which they just put in. The car worked when I drove it home. Then after a couple of days it is doing the same thing.
View 6 RepliesThe car started fine...upon pulling out of the parking lot, the check engine light came on. After a couple seconds, the engine slow cut out and then wouldn't restart. After 20 minutes, I tried again and it started. When I pressed the gas it would only creep. I then had to floor the engine to get it to move. I'm not sure but I don't think I felt or heard the car shift, it's an automatic.
View 1 RepliesI just started getting this thumping sound, at very slow speeds from the bottom front end. What this could be. It sounds like it might be coming from the suspension or steering.
View 2 RepliesToday, I took my 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0T with 67,000 miles on it to a local mechanic to check the right front suspension that has been making a clunking sound when hitting potholes, etc. I was told that the right front coil spring is broken. This afternoon, I looked on line on some of the Saab discussion boards and saw that for cars up 2006 that there was an extended warranty offered for 10 years and 120,000 miles due to multiple cars with this problem caused by an, allegedly, faulty design that allowed the springs to corrode and fail prematurely in snow belt states that salt the roads.
View 3 RepliesI went on vacation, my 2.0T B6 developed a coolant leak at 35k miles. It's still in the shop but the problem has been identified as a leaky o-ring located toward the rear of the engine at the block. The SA told me that they've see quite a few of these in both Audi and VW products using the 2.0T.
I'm also getting a reflash for one of the recalls. I think it's the 03 recall but I'm not sure until I get the paperwork. So off I go in my loaner PT cruiser until I get the B6 back today....
I bought a 01.5 Passat a few months ago and it had developed an exhaust leak. So when I went to check under the car I found it was missing the catalytic converter.
View 4 RepliesI did a coolant flush following the instructions posted on this site. In fact I did a little more than just a flush - replaced degas bottle cap, replaced thermostat and installed a coolant filtration system.
There were no leaks before I started and the only reason I did the flush was that there was green antifreeze in it.
I noticed that there was half a gallon of coolant under it in the parking lot this afternoon - the degas bottle still has coolant in it, so I drove it home and inspected the thermostat housing and top radiator hose, as well as all fittings and hoses installed as part of the coolant filter. Everything was dry.
I tracked the leak to the lower radiator hose - the one thing I did not touch as I drained from the petcock. Coolant is running down the lower radiator hose.
Could the new radiator cap have increased the pressure in the system to a point where it identified a weak point that was not leaking before?
My temps are great, ECT is stable about 188F - 190F and EOT is stable around 192F - 194F. I ran it hard and got temps up to around 200F and they both came back down to 192F range very quickly when I backed off. They were actually running about 5F higher before the flush.
I will try running the old cap to see if there is a difference, but if the lower hose is the weak point I'd prefer to replace that and run the new OEM cap.
I have an 07 with a 4r75e transmission that has developed a leak. The truck has 60,000 miles on it. I looked under the truck and it is not leaking from the pan. I plan to put on stands and get under it tomorrow to see if I can find the leak. Where I might check for the leak?
View 6 RepliesAfter 150,000 miles, the radiator has developed a small leak. Question- do I have to remove the fan or can I just unbolt the shroud and push it back to slide the radiator out? I don't have that special wrench to spin off the clutch fan. 1997 Explorer 4.0 ....
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