Saab - 9-5 :: Maintenance And Repair - Fuel Pump Is Going Out
Jul 15, 2007
I have a 1999 Saab 95, auto, 4 cylinder. I believe the fuel pump is going out. The car will sometimes stall at a stop light and when I stepped on the gas hard it sound/feels like it's stalling but gets going again!! I already checked the fuse, what else can it be? The car has of 100k on it and it's the original fuel pump.
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Do I need to do anything other than disconnect the battery to disable the airbags on this car so I can replace the ignition lock?
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Is there some common issue with this? Purchased the vehicle new in 2008, and in 2011 we have had to have the car in for this issue at least once a year. They replace one, then the other, then back to the first one, and now it appears the second is not working again. Each winter we run into this. The dealer will only warranty for a year, so I am paying each time.
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I recently went to a local chain to have my oil changed and tires rotated. Later that evening when I went to turn on my headlights for the first time since the oil change neither one was working. When I brought back the car the next day to see if they could look at this to see if anything reset accidentally I was told that both lights were burned out and it was a coincidence. It seems unlikely that both headlights would go out at once (high beams were OK) and that it would have happened right after the oil change. I couldn't say what would have caused this but wanted other opinions on if it was likely related to the oil change.
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We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating.
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I have a beautiful 1996 Saab, 900s. Recently the check engine light came on and at Autozone they said the code was for the secondary air injection pump. I took it to a new mechanic, he checked it out and called me to say the pump itself was broken and would cost 1,000 to fix. I said that was a lot, and would think about it, and picked up my car.
Strangest thing- the check engine light is now off! Is this normal? And I just took the car in for the state inspection, it passed! I was under the impression a car without a working secondary air injection pump can't pass emissions. What is going on here??
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I just read in Reader's Digest that some can improve gas mileage by 25% by not putting their car in reverse. This seems like an exaggeration, how can putting a car in reverse be that bad.... like 25% bad? Source: [URL] .....
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One of the fuel lines on our 2007 Subaru Outback needed to be replaced (rodent damage). Now the car reeks of gasoline. The dealer said it will take time to dissipate. How we can speed up the process?
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ok, i just became the proud owner of a 71 dodge dart.. fuel pump was not working, and am converting to an electric (airtex e8016s) and am told i need a relay. airtex doesn't seem to have one, is there another i can use? fairly new at this sort of thing, but have fixed a 72 honda motorbike, so not afraid of engines or whatnot.
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I have 2600 miles on my 2012 mdl II. A month old. I have been averaging 47.5mpg since day one based on miles driven and gas put back in tank at each fill up. I have used only Mobil bottom 87 oct gas.Last fill up got me 48.2, very nice, then I filled up with mid grade 89 oct as it was all I could get then. The next day I was in the dealer for my 1000 mile checkup. when I got out my battery was down to 25%, okay no biggie. Then from there on out I notice my mpg changed alot. The comps used to read 49.1-50.1. Now it reads 42.2-44.1. I drive the same way and my 85 mile round trip to work hasn't changed. My first fill up since the dealer, got me 45.0 mpg. wow a big drop off.
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I have a 2002 Elantra GT, is consuming 22 miles per gallon, one of these days the car was alarmed with a check engine, the mechanic checks to see if he had a loose wire, then removed the battery, put it on again and check engine disappeared. Following this, the car is doing 30 miles per gallon. After 5 hours the alarm appeared again, we scan the car and gave the code P0420. These days the car has been decreasing again the miles per gallon.
I bought the car with 186.000 miles but the person who sold me the car said he had 68.000 miles, the board was stolen and damaged something, then had to buy a Yonker the board and that board came with the mileage, is this possible?
What is suggested to improve the fuel consumption?
It is possible to know how much mileage the car has traveled in reality?
With so many miles traveled, which recommended preventive maintenance?
This error code says that the catalyst has to be replaced but can also be a leak or may be some of the oxygen sensors.
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Took my 2005 Prius for an oil change. Dealer called and recommended fuel injection service because of carbon buildup and mileage (50,000). On my way home on a mild day with heat and AC off it didn't shut off at stop lights all the way home. Battery was charged. Never had this happen before and it's demoralizing because I really love my car!
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I have my aux fuel tank pump hooked to upfitter 3. It has worked perfectly until this week. I started to transfer fuel and the aux fuel gauge and fuel pump both quit. The led on upfitter switch 3 still illuminates, but no fuel pump. I found fuse 9 on passengers kick panel is for upfitter 3. The fuse was good. Is there another fuse somewhere for the circuit I've missed? I can trouble shoot the wiring if necessary, but it's tough to do all behind the left side underbed box and not easy to get to. I've missed something simple before I go further????
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This van has had a couple of fuel pumps, no surprise there, and i need to look through my paperwork and find out how many miles the current one has on it, but it has the STRANGEST habit I've ever had on any vehicle. Starts fine, runs fine, no fuel pump noise when van is running, and when you turn it off, the fuel pump creeks on and off for several minutes.
I mean a strange creaking noise almost like a shorted electrical device or a vehicle's brakes when you park it on a hill and the breaks creak as it settles into place. I'm probably doing a lousy job of describing this but i don't know how else to describe it!
ALSO, if you lay under the van and wait til it stops creaking, you can tap the bottom of the tank and it will creak for a few more seconds. You can tap repeatedly and make it creak more. Is it about to explode? Can i trust it on a road trip?
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I just bought another 1991 Ford. This one is a 1/2 ton XLT Lariet with the 302 and for the first time I own a short bed. I also have a 1991 F-250 XLT with a 460 and a 8' bed.
Here is the problem, ( I think) it will not run or at least not for long. The fuel pump, which I am guessing is in the rear tank will not stop running. On the F-250 the pump stops running after a few seconds after I turn on the key.
Where should I start to find out my problem with the fuel system?
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I've had a fuel leak near the pump of my 79 F150 with a 400 for some time. I didn't know exactly where it was coiming from, but fuel was being sprayed on to the oil filter from something near the pump. I assumed it was the steel line, and that it had rusted through or cracked, and was going to replace it when I had a chance. I was poking around today though, and realized that the fuel was not leaking from the line, but from a hole in the side of the mechanical pump.
For someone who knows what these pumps look like, there is a horizontal cylindrical bump out near the top of the pump, on the side of the pump that is away from the engine. The fuel is spraying in a mist out of one side of that. To me, it always seemed to be a screw channel, but I didn't think the pump was 2 halves put together? Need to know more about my pump, what that bumped out section is, or why/how fuel could be spraying out of it.
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R's at the dealer today for a faulty fuel float sensor, and they just called to let me know my vehicle has the wrong fuel pump in it. Seems mine has the pump for the Golf/Rabbit with the 4 cylinder engine and they need to keep the car until the part is in.
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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Why the frame mounted fuel pump might run after the key is turned off? Then when you turn the key on it may or not run. If it does run it keeps running. shouldn't this shut off after pressurizing the line? is their a pressure switch in the pump that's failing? This has the 3 pump system...
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I have an 87 F150 4x4 4.9L EFI with a single tank. Fuel pumps keep running even when the key is off. I tried swapping relays but the problem still exists. The engine will start and run OK for about 15 secs. then die. I installed a new low pressure pump, high pressure pump seems to be OK. I also installed new fuel filters. I dont want to just throw parts at this truck, where do I go from here?
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I have a 1994 Ford 460 motorhome with a intank fuel pump that quits when it gets hot. so I was thing of butting a heavy duty in line pump on and just pull it through the old pump can this be done safely. Or is it best to drop the tank and just put a new fuel pump in.
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