Saab - 9-5 :: Faint Click Noise / Engine Does Not Crank At All When Trying To Restart


Jan 19, 2013

My 2001 Saab 9-5 has 156,000 miles and is generally in fine working condition. An irregularity in starting began about two months ago which will happen say once every twenty times the car is driven for more than twenty minutes or so.

The car always starts when the engine is cold, first time each day. After driving for awhile then stopping for a quick errand, more than 90% of the time the car will restart, less then 10 % of the time it does not. The engine does not crank at all, only a faint click noise. I can try starting again a number of times with the same noise and result.

However, after 20-25 minutes have passed the car will start as it normally should. Seems to me somehow the problem relates to the cooling off period. Does this make sense?

Is it a switch, a loose wire on the starter, internal wear on the starter motor? Is it a clue that it takes about the same amount of time before it will restart?

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Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: No Crank / Won't Turn Over Or Even Make A Click Noise

I have a 99 f150 2wd v6 4.2 liter engine. Im going to sum up what happened and what I've done so far. One morning truck wouldnt start. Wouldn't crank, turn over, or even make a click click noise. I tried jumping it just to be sure but it didnt do anything. Battery is fine, interior lamps, displays, and radio all work fine.

I took the starter off, had it tested, it was bad so i got a new one. Still had the same problem. Finally, i got underneath the trunk and bridged the positive and negative on the starter solenoid and it fired right up. So the starter is not the problem.

Next I looked into the starter relay, if I bridged the positive and negative on the starter relay it fires right up just like the starter. But since that is only bypassing the starter relay, it didnt tell me whether the starter relay was good or bad. So I got a new starter relay and it worked! It started with the key with no problem 3 times! I thought the problem was fixed but when i tried to start it an hour later, nothing... Same problem as before.

I checked all my fuses, none were blown.

I'm under the assumption that either something leading to the starter relay is making the starter relay go bad OR there isn't enough power going to the starter relay. Maybe something in the ignition, even though my accessories are all still working.

It is the only vehicle I have to and from work. For now I am getting by with bridging positive and negative on the starter relay to start it but that is only a temporary fix.

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The customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.

I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.

I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.

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Had some interesting things go wrong the day before which may be related to it. First, I was tracking my MPG and fuel trim on a highway trip and the trim and fuel consumption data just stopped coming in. Speedo and RPM data was still coming down the OBDII but I just assumed that my reader took a ****. Later that night I noticed that the lights on my climate control (the manual kind) went out. Tapped on it and it came back on, but only briefly. The bulb looks shot.

No engine strangeness on the drive over or earlier in the day. I drive it most every day. Has 215,000 miles on it.

I'm guessing either a short or bad starter. FWIW, I've also been experiencing the typical starter whine after starting. Was meaning to take it off and grease it. Not sure that has anything to do with it. I also tried rotating the crankshaft to make sure the engine wasn't locked up and it does turn, albeit not incredibly easily. It does have oil on the dipstick.

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I drive to a pool almost every morning, swim for about an hour, and then drive back. It always starts fine first thing in the morning, but once in a while it won't start after swimming. When it fails to start, if I wait about 30 minutes, it then starts fine, as if there never was a problem.

It happens maybe once every few weeks. The dealer has never been able to get it to reproduce, nor to find any fault. If I replace the battery anyway, the problem doesn't happen again for 6-12 month. There's never any indication that the battery is at fault (it always tests fine), but replacing it seems to work for a while.

I have a radar detector plugged in to the cigarette lighter, and it displays the voltage. When the car fails to start, the display is generally just below 12v (maybe 11.8 or 11.9). Once it starts, it's well above 12.

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Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.

Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.

Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?

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Out to dinner last night, when I go back to the car, I turn the ignition key and get nothing.

So the car doesn't crank at all. No clicking either. There's a faint hum. All lights, radio, power windows, seat work. I tested the battery and it came in at 12.48v.

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I am concerned with an engine noise.

5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.

I have listed some observations:

The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.

No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.

The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.

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I had my wife sit in the car with me, and she couldn't hear anything, but I can, so I'm afraid when I go to the dealer he will say the same "I can't replicate the noise". What it can be?

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Car would not crank or even click the solenoid. Changed out both positive and negative cables. No start. Checked solenoid terminal, 0 volts. Replaced starter relay in fusebox. Still so volts at starter solenoid terminal. What else should I check other than the ignition switch? Not familiar with the wiring, how should I check?

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