Saab - 9-5 :: Faint Click Noise / Engine Does Not Crank At All When Trying To Restart
Jan 19, 2013
My 2001 Saab 9-5 has 156,000 miles and is generally in fine working condition. An irregularity in starting began about two months ago which will happen say once every twenty times the car is driven for more than twenty minutes or so.
The car always starts when the engine is cold, first time each day. After driving for awhile then stopping for a quick errand, more than 90% of the time the car will restart, less then 10 % of the time it does not. The engine does not crank at all, only a faint click noise. I can try starting again a number of times with the same noise and result.
However, after 20-25 minutes have passed the car will start as it normally should. Seems to me somehow the problem relates to the cooling off period. Does this make sense?
Is it a switch, a loose wire on the starter, internal wear on the starter motor? Is it a clue that it takes about the same amount of time before it will restart?
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The car started fine...upon pulling out of the parking lot, the check engine light came on. After a couple seconds, the engine slow cut out and then wouldn't restart. After 20 minutes, I tried again and it started. When I pressed the gas it would only creep. I then had to floor the engine to get it to move. I'm not sure but I don't think I felt or heard the car shift, it's an automatic.
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I am having problems with starting my 06 sonata. When I put the key in the ignition there is power, but when I turn the key the engine does not start. There is a faint click. This seems intermittent as most times the car starts normally. The battery shouldn't be the problem as I replaced it not long ago.
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I have been experiencing a slight issue with my 07 Sonata V6 lately. When I am accelerating, most commonly when already at speed around 80 to 90 km/h, I would hear this 2-3 ticks / clicks when I press lightly or moderately on the accelerator pedal. The car would accelerate fine without any further noises. When I release the pedal, the car slows down a bit, and I press on the pedal again, then the same sound re-appears.
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I have a 99 f150 2wd v6 4.2 liter engine. Im going to sum up what happened and what I've done so far. One morning truck wouldnt start. Wouldn't crank, turn over, or even make a click click noise. I tried jumping it just to be sure but it didnt do anything. Battery is fine, interior lamps, displays, and radio all work fine.
I took the starter off, had it tested, it was bad so i got a new one. Still had the same problem. Finally, i got underneath the trunk and bridged the positive and negative on the starter solenoid and it fired right up. So the starter is not the problem.
Next I looked into the starter relay, if I bridged the positive and negative on the starter relay it fires right up just like the starter. But since that is only bypassing the starter relay, it didnt tell me whether the starter relay was good or bad. So I got a new starter relay and it worked! It started with the key with no problem 3 times! I thought the problem was fixed but when i tried to start it an hour later, nothing... Same problem as before.
I checked all my fuses, none were blown.
I'm under the assumption that either something leading to the starter relay is making the starter relay go bad OR there isn't enough power going to the starter relay. Maybe something in the ignition, even though my accessories are all still working.
It is the only vehicle I have to and from work. For now I am getting by with bridging positive and negative on the starter relay to start it but that is only a temporary fix.
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The customer brought in her 130,000 mile 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis complaining that the starter would click several times as she turned the key again and again, before it would make the the engine crank like crazy. I saw that the positive battery cable was badly corroded, and replaced the aftermarket end with a new aftermarket end. Everything was nice and clean. No difference. I tested the battery for load voltage with my good old Sun VAT-60. It tested good, sufficient voltage after 15 seconds under a 100 amp load. I removed the fuel pump relay so that the car would not stay running for long, and then would not start when the starter did engage. It drew 120 amps while cranking. That's within spec for a fully warm engine.
I think what she has is a bad solenoid atop the starter, or perhaps a bad spot on the commutator that moves slightly with each click until the brushes are in another position. Then it will turn OK.
I think a new starter is needed. Am I on the right track? I don't want to crawl under it unless I have to, and she doesn't have money for me to make a mistake.
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So I drove my car about a mile to a friend's house and when I went to start it back up 10 minutes later, I got no start and no crank. Just a single loud relay click from the engine compartment. Tow truck tried jumping it and then thwacking the starter solenoid to try and get it going. No dice. Battery seems all good.
Had some interesting things go wrong the day before which may be related to it. First, I was tracking my MPG and fuel trim on a highway trip and the trim and fuel consumption data just stopped coming in. Speedo and RPM data was still coming down the OBDII but I just assumed that my reader took a ****. Later that night I noticed that the lights on my climate control (the manual kind) went out. Tapped on it and it came back on, but only briefly. The bulb looks shot.
No engine strangeness on the drive over or earlier in the day. I drive it most every day. Has 215,000 miles on it.
I'm guessing either a short or bad starter. FWIW, I've also been experiencing the typical starter whine after starting. Was meaning to take it off and grease it. Not sure that has anything to do with it. I also tried rotating the crankshaft to make sure the engine wasn't locked up and it does turn, albeit not incredibly easily. It does have oil on the dipstick.
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If I'm driving straight, the car feels silky smooth, but if I make a turn, even a highway sweeper I get this faint thumping coming from the front end (Very subtle, but you can feel it in the steering wheel and through your feet). I was thinking it could be the cv joints, but to be honest I am not really sure since it only occurs while turning. I just read a thread where the person had a similar condition and it turned out that it was just that the subframe bolts had loosened up....
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I own a 2002 Saab 9-3 with 248,000. When I start the engine there is a rattling sound as if something is loose and quiet down when the engine warms up. Sometime when I stop and accelerate there is rattling and then a lot of smoke from the exhaust. I am looking for a mechanic that specialize in Saab to get a honest assessment. How to keep this vehicle running.
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I have a 2001 9-5 that has exhibited a problem for maybe two or three years now: It sometimes fails to start (won't even crank) after a short drive and sitting for about an hour.
I drive to a pool almost every morning, swim for about an hour, and then drive back. It always starts fine first thing in the morning, but once in a while it won't start after swimming. When it fails to start, if I wait about 30 minutes, it then starts fine, as if there never was a problem.
It happens maybe once every few weeks. The dealer has never been able to get it to reproduce, nor to find any fault. If I replace the battery anyway, the problem doesn't happen again for 6-12 month. There's never any indication that the battery is at fault (it always tests fine), but replacing it seems to work for a while.
I have a radar detector plugged in to the cigarette lighter, and it displays the voltage. When the car fails to start, the display is generally just below 12v (maybe 11.8 or 11.9). Once it starts, it's well above 12.
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I had my Prius for almost 4 years and I'm used to all the hybrid noises: brake pump after opening the door, emission control pump hours after driving, high pitched inverter noise in EV, etc. This is different. Very faint and I only noticed it because I opened the hood right after driving. The car was completely off, but there was some small electric motor activated somewhere inside the engine. Is this electric coolant pump?
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This is my first dual-bat vehicle. 2011 F250 with ~60K. Dual alternators. Bought in August of 2010. One battery(passenger side) was leaking pretty badly in ~2012 and was replaced under warranty along with the harness as it was corroded.
Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.
Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.
Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?
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Ok so I have a 09 tiguan S that stalled yesterday while driving only a few short min. My wife had been driving home about 4 miles when she got home I could hear a faint squealing noise as she pulled up. I left right after and assumed it was the the ac belts it that exist, so to verify that I turned off the ac and the sound did fade. I drove with it off for a few min then turned it on again the car acted normal and cooled just fine then about 5 min later I pulled into a lot and while waiting for others to move the engine stalled and I had the engine light, epc and battery lights showing. Now it was something like 110 outside and I thought overheated but the temp gauge showed normal and I received no warnings. I smelled a burned rubber smell and I recall seeing a small puff of smoke. I could not locate anything that could have burned out. The only thing I could see that was unusual was what looked like buildup on the air intake tubes.
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I have a 2005 RX330, 90k miles on it. It's been running fine until last night.
Out to dinner last night, when I go back to the car, I turn the ignition key and get nothing.
So the car doesn't crank at all. No clicking either. There's a faint hum. All lights, radio, power windows, seat work. I tested the battery and it came in at 12.48v.
I'm thinking maybe the starter. But since it's a pia to get to it, i wanted to see if I should be checking something else first before i invest the time getting to it.
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Lexus 3.3L RX-330 Engine Noise - Part 3 - YouTube
I am concerned with an engine noise.
5 months ago we bought a 2005 Lexus RX-330. It had 109k miles on it (now has 113k). There is a faint but noticeable engine tap/ knock/ tick coming from the engine. I think it has the 3.3l, 3gr-fe engine.
I have listed some observations:
The sound does not occur on startup, when the car is completely cold.
The sound starts after 5-10 minutes of driving or idling.
The sound diminishes and is almost imperceptible after another 10 minutes of driving.
The sound is only noticeable at idle.
The sound/tap seems to occur about 5 times a second at 600 rpm (idle)
The sound increases frequency with rising of rpm.
At approximately 2k rpm the sound cannot be heard.
If the vehicle is stopped after driving, allowed to sit for 5-10 minutes and then restarted, the sound will be loudest even though the engine is still hot.
The engine is quiet overall with exception of this sound. The fuel injector sound is the next loudest sound.
The sound doesn't seem to have gotten louder in the last 5 months but it may have gotten just slightly louder by my estimation.
I can hear the sound inside the vehicle and outside as well.
No other symptoms are present. I had the timing belt, water pump, idler and tensioner replaced as maintenance and as a possible solution to this problem right after buying the vehicle.
The mechanic heard the sound but told me he wasn't sure of the cause. He and I agree that it sounds like an internal engine noise. It is not a pulley, idler or exhaust sound. The mechanic told me not to worry about it and it was a normal sound. He also said to start troubleshooting would get expensive. I am still concerned.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8 with 18,000 miles on it. My wife mainly drives it, today after getting it washed, I was driving and noticed a very faint noise from the engine compartment. Seems to be coming from the passenger front. The sound is something like grr grr grr.... I made sure it's not the wheels by putting the car in neutral and giving it gas which made the sound audible (I can also hear it while idling).
I had my wife sit in the car with me, and she couldn't hear anything, but I can, so I'm afraid when I go to the dealer he will say the same "I can't replicate the noise". What it can be?
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I'm hearing a sort of faint rotating squeaking noise coming from the front of the engine; I can only assume that it's something with the belts. Nothing too pronounce cause I just notice it yesterday, anyway I was hoping I get another take on what this might be before I take it to the mechanic tomorrow.
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I have a 1995 Chevy S10 with a ghost. The vehicle shuts off unexpectedly and will crank but not restart. It has been in the shop now for over 2 weeks with no sign of getting fixed. The Crankshaft sensor has been replaced, but this did not fix the problem.
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I am mostly a domestic car guy, but recently been working on some Toyotas for friends. The situation:
'95 Celica ST, 2.2 5 speed, 200K miles. Died when coming to a light. The car was towed to my friend's house. Battery was completely dead. Replaced battery and checked alternator and starter at Advanced Auto. Both checked good.
Car would not crank or even click the solenoid. Changed out both positive and negative cables. No start. Checked solenoid terminal, 0 volts. Replaced starter relay in fusebox. Still so volts at starter solenoid terminal. What else should I check other than the ignition switch? Not familiar with the wiring, how should I check?
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Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
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I have a 2006 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited w/ 33k miles on it...4.0 engine. Have had it a little over a year. Last Fall, it started having issues whenever we had a lot of rain. Would not crank at all. Replaced the battery and clutch switch, which seems to worked, but is now doing it again. I turn the key and all of the lights come on, but there is not even a click. If I coast it off and pop the clutch, it starts right up. Once it dries out, will start w/ the key without an issue. Have an appt w/ the dealer, but they cannot get to it until Thursday, but I have to drive to work until then.
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