Saab - 9-5 :: 2001 Wagon Blowing Hot And Cold At The Same Time
Sep 16, 2013
I'm having trouble with my saab wagon blowing hot and cold at the same time. It generally occurs when the outside temp is within 10 degrees of the temp setting on the car. Now during the summer the drivers side will blow cold and the passenger side hot. I'm thinking it may be the solar sensor on the dash. Driving in this condition is not only uncomfortable but also highly embarrassing when I have a passenger.
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It seems my A/C isn't blowing cold air all the time. It's as if the compressor isn't kicking on or is intermittent. It eventually does, but it takes a long time to cool the vehicle. I've had it about 6 years and it has definitely changed. Vehicle is an '04 with 106K now.
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I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
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I have this weird problem where my cars blows air at all speeds but the AC and heater doesn't work, what it could be? Maybe blower motor relay?
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'01 Jetta IV GLS AC not blowing cold air:
1. Blower works on all 1,2,3,4 settings
2. Cabin Air Filter Clean
3. When AC button pressed, I see the Compressor turns and noted the clutch also engaged.
4. AC Fan near Radiator comes on
5. Blend Door seems to be working fine - fixed the problem of spitting foam without opening up the heater box.
6. Since the above electrical parts seem to be working, I suppose it could not be a relay issue.
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I currently own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 135,000K miles on it, and have had continual problems with the A/C not blowing cold over the last year or so.
A year ago, took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic (not a dealer) who diagnosed the problem as a "bad" master circuit board. Thing ran fine for about 6 months, then started to intermittently blow warm air, until it finally quit blowing cold.
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer hoping they would be able to fix the problem. They charged me $110 and told me the refrigerant was low so they topped it off. 6 weeks later, once again not blowing cold, took it back. They said this time they found a "leak" in the refrigerant hose, replaced the hose, topped off the refrigerant, and sent me on my way (free of charge, of course, since they should have fixed it the first time).
Well...6 weeks later and once again, not blowing cold, so back to the dealer I go. Once again, they said the hose was "leaking" and they did the dye test (shouldn't they have done this the first time?) and replaced the hose, and the refrigerant. Good for another 6 weeks, then once again, not blowing cold.
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04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus I bourg a month ago. The dealer I bought it from replaced the air compressor on June 29. Today I had been in my car for a couple of minutes and was stopped at a stop light when my car idle increased and all of a sudden I heard a high pitched screeching sound. The a/c immediately quit blowing cold air. I turned the a/c immediately to vent and continued to drive home. After raising the good once I got home, I could see a bunch of what looked like rubber and oil shavings down under the compressor. What may have happened?
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My clutch pedal has started squeaking every time I step on it (seems to work fine otherwise). If I hit it with WD-40, is there any risk of lubricating something that shouldn't be lubricated?
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It sounds like a huge, happy cat in a tunnel when turning right and accelerating at the same time. It's an echoing whirring/purring sort of sound. What it could be? It also clunks in the rear with slight vibration. Could this be caused by an issue with the rear suspension or the engine mounts or something else?
Also, the locks seem to be possessed. When I try to unlock all the doors by pulling up on the driver's lock, the rest of the doors either unlock perfectly or lock harder, i.e.,all the passenger locks slam down and cannot be retracted. Sometimes the locks will either lock and unlock or lock and lock harder on their own while I'm driving.
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2001 Ford Windstar rear auxiliary unit will not blow hot or cold air. The front system works fine with very cold or very hot air as needed.The system has been in this state for the past four years.Last month I had a local shop evacuate the refrigerant and then I replaced the following A/C components (compressor, front orifice tube, rear expansion valve, receiver dryer, and condenser). The shop then recharged the system and the front blows ice cold air...amazing! Unfortunately the rear system just doesn't want to blow any air, hot or cold. To date I have completed the following checks:
Relays
- Front cabin relays #3 and #6 were swapped with no change to front system.
- Rear unit relays make a clicking sound when either front or rear control panels set blower motor speed.
-- I swapped out with front and rear cabin blower motor relays with no change to front blower motor.
Engine Compartment - Both 40A fuses were checked (117 & 120).They are supposed to be 40A fuses but my box had 50A in both places.It had been like this for years with both systems working fine up until the rear unit ceased working.(NOTE: maybe this is coincidence but when I changed these from 50A to 40A my son noticed that some of the rear tail lights stopped working. in fact all of them associated with fuse #7 located in the passenger cabin.)
Fuses - all related fuses were checked and are fine.As noted above the distribution box fuses were changed from 50A to 40A with no detrimental effect on the front system working.
Front Control Panel
- Heat and air work fine (blower and temp controls)
- Front control panel appears to change rear unit temperature setting but only one of blend door actuators adjust when changing temperature setting
-- The one closest to the blower motor does not function.The one that directs air to floor or ceiling functions properly.
-- Shouldn't they move together based on the temp setting?
- Front control panel blower motor settings only result in hearing a clicking noise for each setting.
- Setting front control panel to REAR CTRL allows rear control panel to function.
Rear Control Panel
- Temperature settings - same result as front control panel with blend door actuators.
- Blower motor settings - same result as front control panel.
Rear Auxiliary Unit
- Expansion valve makes a hissing sound on A/C or Defrost settings.
- Blower motor was removed and benched tested for operation.
-- Electrical connection looks fine and seats snug.
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It's my 2005, 2.7l. auto trans, FWD.
AC stops blowing cold when the engine temp get hot. As long as the car is moving, it blows nice and cold. Also, when sitting the engine temp rises quickly and will over heat if you don't get moving.
Cooler fan on the inside of the radiator never kicks over to high mode as the temp goes up. I checked the fuses and the relay and both are good.
That leaves me with a bad fan? Correct? Also, what is the part number of the fan?
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It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
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My ac stopped blowing cold. The compressor turns on when I turn the ac on. When I pressure tested the low line port, it showed it was too high to add any recharge. 2001 jetta wolfsburg 1.8t....
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
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I think the truck needs a recharge, it's not blowing any cold air. The question is - which port do I use? There's one on the top of the accumulator and another in the line just off the passenger side of the radiator, near the coolant tank.
My only recharge experience was after I replaced a leaking accumulator in my 2007 Crown Vic police interceptor, and this obviously doesn't look quite the same.
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I own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
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Last week, my Mazda 6 wagon would not start ... Jumped by auto club, and told the right battery cable was not tightly connected to battery. Car was ok for 2 days... Then same thing, it would not start, jumped again, battery was ok per auto club. Car ran for one day, then jumped again and brought to mechanic. Mechanic has had 24 hours, replaced new battery and cable connection... still not starting consistently with cold weather???
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I have an automatic '95 Toyota Corolla wagon that over the past year has had intermittent problems dying after turning on the ignition. It happens mostly when starting for the first time in the morning in our carport (which is generally flat) [are there enough red herrings yet?]. However, we can go for weeks without problems. Our battery is relatively new (1yr) and the car starts-- however, sometimes the car dies unless the gas pedal is depressed for long periods of time in neutral or park. If I can pull out of the carport without having the car die, we've never had any problems on the road.
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I've had my '96 Saab 900S for almost 6 years and it has 119K miles. Last weekend w/ the below freezing temperatures, she decided not to start on me again. I'll reiterate the word "again" as this non-starting problem happens once or twice every winter, when the temperatures are very cold, usually 20 degrees or colder. I've taken it to the mechanic who doesn't know why it continues to do this to me every winter during a really cold spell. As soon as the weather warms up 30 degrees or higher, the car starts up fine w/in a couple tries. During the non-starting fiscal the car will turn over, but then just dies, as if it is "starving for fuel".
On a few occasions I've tried the "cold start", or pushing the gas pedal while turning the engine on for 5-10 seconds, and then trying to start the car normally right after. This has worked on occasion in the past, but isn't a sure bet, this last weekend it didn't work. Recent work includes new battery, distributer cap and rotors, spark plugs, fuel line checked out "ok", and fluid changes are regularly maintained. Does it sound electrical or mechanical? No check engine light comes on so it makes it hard to diagnose. As this car was built in Sweden, it shouldn't be so temperamental in the below freezing weather every winter.
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My daughter has complained about periods of no heat- fan blows but cold air. Next time the heater works fine. She is keeping coolant level up but does need to add a bit (pint or so) say every other month. Last week during the Chicago snow storm she called and told me the heater (which had been working) blew a bunch of "smoke" into the car and onto the windshield and windows which then froze solid. I assume the smoke meant steam and she did say it had a sweet smell when I asked her.
Car was towed to a SAAB dealer who ran the car for a couple hours and found no issue and then drove the car for a period with no issue. I had my local mechanic also check it in the past for no heat and it also worked fine then. Only thing I can think of is that there might be a small/intermittent leak in the head gasket with an exhaust bubble forced into the cooling system? That does not explain the steam in the passenger compartment though. Could it?
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