Saab - 9-5 :: 1999 - Tire Worn Out Again Only At 20,000 Miles?
Mar 26, 2012
I have a 1999 Saab 9-5 that eats tires.I bought it in 2007 with 20,000 miles. It now has 110,000 miles. My first set of tires, Toyos, got only 35.000 miles before they were worn out. The tire guy told me to expect around 60,000 when I bought them. Replaced them with GY Eagles which showed significant wear with only 20,000 on them. Tires rotated/bal every 6000 miles or so. The alignment was checked as was suspension, joints, fittings, etc. All checked out fine. Both sets of tires show even wear over all four tires each time. The local mechanic, the tire guy and the regional Saab guru all said, "some cars eat tires, yours is one of them".?
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I just notice that two of my tires, all of them Michelin Energy™ Saver A/S tires, seems to be worn out after 10K mile usage. However, when I look these tires at the Michelin web site, it states that these tires have a 64K mile warranty. Also if I decided that two of my tires, all Michelin Energy™ Saver A/S tires, need replacement, could I just replace the two worn out tires or all 4 tires?
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In late fall, I got a recall notice from VW for my 04 V6 Touareg and just got around to bringing it in to Leith VW (dealer I purchased from "new" with about 900 miles on it in May 2005 as one of the last '04s on the lot) in Cary today. Since it's at 18,900 miles, I had them do the scheduled 20k service, plus my state inspection was due so added that as well.
They just called to let me know that although they did pass the inspection for me, the car really needs 4 new tires because the tread depth is below marginal. Also, they said that they are not a dealer for that brand of tire so they cannot give me any kind of treadlife warranty prorating on the replacements; if I want to claim it, I need to go find a tire dealer somewhere.
What kind of BS is this? How could a dealer sell a new car with a tire on it that they aren't actually a dealer for? Did somebody pull a fast one on me by swapping out the tires for an old set laying around before I bought it?
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I just dropped my 2014 Prius off at the dealer for regular service and they tell me the brake pads are rusted and 'locked up' into the calipers. They want to replace the front brakes. I told them that this sounds like premature wear - especially given the Prius' reputation for brake longevity - my dad had a Camry Hybrid that went 170,000km before he sold it - never having changed the damn brakes. Of course, they are claiming that this is normal wear and tear. Is this normal wear and tear, or is there something wrong with the car? - or worse, is the dealer trying to milk some cash out of me?
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Basically got myself into a big pickle with tickets.... as related to keeping my job. I got two serious traffic violations (15+ mph over the limit) that'll count against my CDL.
My question basically comes down to having brand new tires vs. tires that are worn to the bars indicating tread depth is too shallow. Yes, that difference can be enough to determine whether or not I'm under or over 15mph over the limit.
Okay I guess that really wasn't a question .... Is the speedometer calibrated to "new" tire or a "worn" tire?
I drive a '98 Saturn SC1 with the stock steal rims... R14 if I remember right. I basically have two new tires on the front end... One about 1000 miles off the other one.
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I am lowered on KW V3's, running Figs lower control arm bushings with toe set to 0 for alignment just to be safe. Before upgrading to the Figs CAB's, I had the usual inner tire wear on both fronts. I then set the alignment to the safer toe=0 and it got better but still not perfect, so we installed the Figs bushings which made things great.
In the last 20k miles, something is off. My LF tire (Michelin Pilot Super Sport) easily lasted the 20K miles with very even wear. But I've gone through 2 RF tires, with the same outcome. After about 8-10K miles, the inner edge of the sidewall is so worn that the tire has physically separated. If you see the pic below, there is significant tire failure. Same issue, 2 tires on the same side.
Now, if this was happening on both sides, I would assume it's the normal ISF inner tire wear issue. But since we upgraded the CAB's, still have toe set to 0 and the LF is wearing perfectly, something else must be off. A check of all the main suspension points shows all bushings to be ok. The car has never been in a wreck and you can see the alignment specs below appear ok. Tire appears choppy, like a toe issue but the Figs bushing appears fine.
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I have a 2014 Patriot. I swapped my all-season tires for my snow tires and discovered the front tires (both) are wearing badly on the inner half. The right tire has worn way more than the left, and it is bald on that edge. I had an alignment done in May 2015 at 25,000 km after I had put on my all-season tires (that was done in April). Since then, I forgot to get a rotation done (and perhaps they would have seen the issue sooner). I brought the car in today to get looked at (Dec 17) but they found nothing wrong. They even did an alignment check and everything is within specs. What's wrong with it. I'm afraid my snow tires are going to wear the same way. The service manager tried to tell me that my tires were wearing on the inner edge of the tire naturally due to turning my steering wheel.
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I just bought my first car, a 2000 saab 9-3 convertible (base model) a month or so ago. The car had been neglected for the last year or so and I have been spending the last few weeks fixing all its issues. This last weekend I replaced the rear shocks, font struts and the rotors and brake pads on all four wheels. After driving about 20 miles or so I started to notice a squeak coming from the front right wheel well and since has become more and more noticeable/pronounced.
Squeak description:-cyclically increases and decreases in volume with each rotation of the wheel
-the squeak is constant: squeak that gets louder at a certain point in each wheel rotation but is always a certain baseline volume as long as the wheel is turning
-the volume of the squeak is NOT AT ALL effected by braking (EXACT same noise driving as while braking) which leads me to think its has nothing to do with the pads or rotors
-HERE IS THE WEIRD ONE: the squeak disappears completely when driving in reverse!
-the squeak is about the pitch and sound of a cricket, only constant and Ii guess louder.
-the noise is unaffected by turning sharply to the right and left.
Additional details:- I had to use a gear puller to press the axle out of the wheel bearing (was stuck from rust). I hooked to the back of the wheel bearing ( what the lug nuts screw into ) and pressed on the center of the axle. Maybe this could have damaged it or the cv joint?-while I was switching that wheel's strut insert out, the carrier bearing leaked 1 (maybe 1 and a half) teaspoons of grey oil from the larger end of its boot and stretched out an inch or so from the weight of the hanging axle.
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I just got a call from my VW Dealer. He stated that while performing my 10k service, he noticed that there was a crack on my lower engine cover (splash guard) on my front passenger side and that the tire was worn on the inside almost to the metal. He stated that a driver must of hit a curb or a pot hole at a high speed to cause this type of damage... My wife and myself are the only ones who drive it and we are sure we have not hit any curbs or gone over any pot holes at HIGH speeds... some pot holes but nothing my old jeep couldn't handle...
My complaint is that I was hoping that the TReg would turn out to be the off road beast that VW has advertised it to be, but am disappointed that only after 10k miles I need an alignment and a tire change and have not even been off road... what should I expect in the years to come.. I am hoping to not have to treat this Truck like a car...
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Is it normal ? Yesterday mechanics at the service center told me that i need a tire change. I have only 27720 miles on my stock car tire. I thought tire last like upto 40000 miles !!
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I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
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My new 2015 Subaru Forester calls for tire rotation every 6000 miles, which seems excessive to me.
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Well so far I have had this truck for 5 years and I'm going for the third set of tires. So far I have run Nitto terra grapplers, and currently BFG at ko's. Both sets wore out around the 20,000-mile mark, they both wore very evenly, rotated every 6,000 miles, properly inflated, check the lineup at 2 different reputable shops.is it something about the 275-65-20s that make them wear faster? I really don't need an at tire as I don't go off road that much so I'm thinking of a good all season radial.
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So my rear driver side tire blew at 24k miles. Dropped with Tein H techs when I first bought and had it aligned via lexus. 14 months later and tire blew. The thread on the tire was very worn on the inner side of the tire so I had to exchanged them both. I order the Michelin ps2 and now it's rubbing ?
Why is the Michelin rubbing when the tires are the exact same specs as factory? Didn't know I had to get camber kits for just H Techs.
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I have a 1999 Saab 9-5. For the past 4 years I have only used the key to lock/unlock the doors. (I never liked using the fob.)
Lately, once a week I am unable to turn the key in the lock. It does not budge. Sprayed some lubricant, but no effect. It stays stuck -either locked or unlocked a few days, and then goes back to normal.
When it sticks locked, I've unlocked the hatch and crawled inside. I can unlock the doors then from the center console, but once I exit the car, I can't get the key to turn to lock it again.
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Well I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
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I have a 2013 F250 6.7 Crew Cab Single Wheel. Stock 20" Michelin tires and stock suspension. I have almost 20K miles on it. I just rotated the tires again and noticed that the rears are worn down on the inside. The fronts look perfect.
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But on my 2000 SD V10 the hubs are worn I just cant find which way to turn them to auto ?
I'm getting popping and such so I think I'm locked while turning.
Also.... IS there a way to check the COPS with a multimeter? I think I got a bad one.
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My 1999 Saab 93 started making a clicking sound that speeds up and slows down as the car speeds up and slows down BUT goes away when I give it gas. The sound is still there when the clutch is depressed and seems to be coming from the front right of the car. I can feel the clicking in the clutch and the stick shift.
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1999 Saab 9-3 2.0/turbo, manual, 159K miles. Barely replaced turbo (with new turbo) at 154K miles. Had sluggish power after new turbo installment. I had informed saab mechanic that the car felt sluggish upon receipt, to which he replied I could pay extra for a "performance" tune up. But, now months later the loss of power problem has worsened. Since I paid dearly for a complete new turbo installation I'd expect the same level performance as prior to the old turbo going out.
To be clear: no turbo power upon acceleration, slight whirring noise heard when stepping on gas, turbo pressure gauge stays near end of white zone, barely top of white, but needle doesn't leave white into yellow zone as it's suppose to when full gas is given or when revving up rpms to 4800 while switching gears.... absolutely no power, nothing. I'm relying on down-gearing for some engine power when going uphill - tis' that bad. Also, no black smoke or indicator lights. In researching people mention both vacuum hoses or waste gate come up as possible culprits to turbo-related power loss.
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1999 saab 9 3 loss of power going up hill and when accelerating, have had the catalytic converter replaced, the turbo thingy checked and blown out, the muffler checked and found no problem, It has been put on the machine at 2 different dealers and no problem found...
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