Saab - 9-3 :: Rough Idle And Loss Of Power - Stalling On Start Up
Mar 14, 2016
SAAB 2007 9-3 - Recently my car has been having a rough idle and stalling on start up. It has been getting worse and I need it fixed ASAP for a long trip coming up. I cannot have this thing die on me while I'm 300 miles from home....
At stop lights the car will have a rough idle while in park and reverse. While in neutral, nothing. As soon as I accelerate, it goes away but does have a lack of power if I really push the pedal. Once I am in 3rd/4th gear, the car feels normal with no issues. If I am on the highway and slow down then need to accelerate, it goes back to losing power BUT if I change over to manual and downshift, car gains power and goes back to normal.
Here's what I have done so far:
1. Changed the spark plugs twice. Once with cheap ones, the second time with expensive ones. I also swapped out the boots.
2. Cleaned the MAP sensor
3. Cleaned intake sensor
4. Replaced air filter
5. Changed oil
6 New battery
The engines gives no codes whatsoever and I have taken it to a couple places and their readers don't see any codes. My SAAB has a built in fuel filter and this cannot be replaced unless you replaced the whole pump (to my understanding). I plan on buying some Seafoam today and see if that works. Also, I have been told to clean my air intake valve but I cannot get the damn tube off! I feel that if I yank and pull on it, it's going to damage the tube. I am not seeing any obvious leaks anywhere. One thing that is weird about my car, since I have bought it used a few years ago, my headlights/tail lights/blinkers go bad QUICKLY!
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
Here is this wonderful 5.4 's issue now, sometimes it will idle rough, sometimes it wont. sometimes it feels like it wants to stall, other times not. if im driving about 30mph up a hill around 1700 rpm, the engine feels like a bucking horse, it will kinda want to produce the power, but cant seem to find it till the trans drops to a lower gear. With this engine power loss is unacceptable because it came out of the factory with no power, i cant afford to loose more.
there is no check engine light. its been doing this on and off for a week. i dont drive it much, may 15 miles a day. i thought maybe it was bad gas , i had it sitting for a month, but since then ran almost 2 tanks of gas through it. Seems to act the worst when driving it, then letting it idle for 5 mins, then drive it again, that's when its very noticeable. no smoke from exhaust, no mixing of oil and anti freeze, plugs are a year old, filter is new.
View 10 Replies
What would cause my truck to have a long turnover start, a really rough idle, and a loss of power after idling at a stop light for about a minute?
This problem gets worse as the truck warms up. It feels as if I'm not getting power from all 6 cylinders but this goes away after about 20 feet of acceleration. The truck has never not started. It just has to turn over for about 5 to 10 seconds before it fires up. I changed the spark plugs and wires thinking it was that and then i tried the fuel filter and it wasn't that either.
View 8 Replies
I got a problem with my 03 elantra, recently the car had a problem of stalling. I replaced the crank shaft sensor and that fix the problem, but the car always when idle and then press the gas to go feels like it has no power at all then all the sudden all power kicks in it only does that for a second when i press the gas. What I did was to replace the fuel filter that actually was extremely dirty,but no change i guess it could be the fuel pressure regulator.
View 10 Replies
My coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
View 10 Replies
[URL] I even pulled the same P0170 code. And what I need to do before I spend a boatload of money and wind up sleeping in my car instead of driving it to work or lack therof is to start a troubleshooting list starting from where Sabot's update left off, i dont even know where the vacuum line is that he mentions and if i sprayed carb cleaner on it would i get a jump in engine RPM or a stall as a test?
What I have done: Cleaned MAF sensor, changed fuel filter.
What I have not done: Checked all vacuum lines, Tested fuel pressure, Tested for compression issues due to blown head gasket.
there is also a puffing noise coming from the exhaust side of the engine, im gonna grab a bottle of baby powder this afternoon and test for air leaks, i dont believe it is a misfire...
View 3 Replies
I'm a diesel mechanic and know my way around Powerstrokes, this 4.0 is not what I would usually work on, but I have a friend who has 2006 explorer 4.0L SOHC, someone told him he needed a motor with out explanation why, so I didn't want to see him get ripped off. The problem is it idles very rough, hard to start, and stalls. There's no DTCs , if you hold the accelerator slightly it will stay running, but once you let off it will either idle really bad and misfire or cut off, once pushing the accelerator the rpms raise very smoothly up til 3500 which is what I assume the rev limit is in nuetral.
I've done checks with focom and forscan, I was thinking possibly a bad fuel pump, while monitoring fuel pressure I see a range of 289 - 326 kpa with 26% fuel pump I guess duty cycle would be the correct term(once again I'm a diesel guy, and use to dealing with IPRs and Hpops) not sure if the desired fuel pressure is relevant on these but it always stays at 269kpa. I believe that equals out to 40-48psi while I believe this system is supposed to have somewhere in the range of 60 - 70, but I wouldn't expect to get a rough idle with no load with almost 50 psi of fuel pressure.
So with no DTCs Im baffled, and don't want to start wasting money just throwing parts at it. I've thought everything from fuel pressure sensor, to coil pack(replaced 4 months ago) to crank and cam sensors.
I did end up getting a code p106, but I believe this is because I didnt tighten the intake hose after checking the throttle bottle, I just slid it back on. out of the 4 days of testing first time I seen a code pop up besides unplugging some sensors here and there to make sure the pcm would actually register a dtc.
View 3 Replies
1995 Honda EX with 150,000 miles. Its been running rough ie rough idle, stalling at low rpms etc Additionally for awhile now when humidy reached north of 85% the car wont start. It cranks but rarely runs.
Took it to a mechanic last week for a tuneup. They replaced the Distributor cap, spark plug and wires and fuel filter. Car ran great for a day. Then progressively got worse. Was undriveable the other day stalling misfiring while at speed. Took it back today. They determined that it was still not getting spark and replaced the distributor. They did so, test drove it, declared it good and I came to pick it up. Paid the bill, walked out to the car and the damn thing would not start. Humidity was high.
Mechanic pulled a spark plug and put a tester in and didn't get a spark when cranking. He is assuming the distributor he just put in is bad. So they are keeping the car overnight to be fixed in the morning with a new distributor.
However I'm not convinced the dizzy is bad, I believe, as I've read that the Honda's ECU is probably bad and shorting out in the high humidity. Can a bad ECU would prevent spark?
View 2 Replies
Dad has a 01 one ton with the 7.3 and isn't real tech savvy so I'm posting for him. He is the original owner and has been complaining recently about the lack of power. Particularly the upper end. He is having to downshift way more often and where he used to not have to. And we've both noticed a very noticeable shake at idle. Not a vibration but a true shake. He changes the oil every 5000 on the dot and I've gone and changed the air and fuel filter and ran hose and see foam and royal purple injector cleaner through it with no results. Truck is all stock with 225000 on it.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2002 F-250 7.3, 159k on it. I bought it in March, ran AWESOME up till now. I was driving to work last week, check engine light came on, truck lost power and started idling rough. I have a buddy who works for a Ford dealer as a diesel mechanic, he came over with his scanner and laptop. #2,#4,#8 cylinders kept coming up saying possible problems are injectors, harness, rings.. He also did an electrical check, that all checked out. He told me to get injectors, so I got 4 injectors (yes I got the correct #8 injector), valve cover gasket, injector harness and 4 glow plugs.
The parts came last Friday, we did the job and it ran great. Drove it Friday night, Saturday, Sunday morning, no issues. Sunday afternoon we were on our way to a birthday party, truck started doing the exact same thing... Check engine light, rough idle, loss of power. After I got home from the party, my buddy came back over, put it on the scanner again, getting the same codes again. Deleted the codes, ran the tests again, same codes, deleted the codes, rant the tests again, same codes.
He said he is going to come by tomorrow with the box to check each individual cylinder.
View 14 Replies
I was driving my 2011 the other day home from work and experienced a rough idle. Normally the truck idles pretty smooth. I noticed when I was driving at highway speeds the truck seems to shake a lot. I pulled over and turned the truck off. I did a walk around and could find anything out of the ordinary. I started it back up and no more rough idle. However while i was driving at freeway speeds I could feel a momentary lack of power, then the truck would regain its speed. This would only last a sec or two.
I figured I'd give it a few days.... well now its gotten worse. Its doing the same thing but a noticeable difference in the lack of power. I still have boost pressure and the turbo seems to working fine. Im trying to figure out what it might be. I'll be taking my truck into ford again...
View 12 Replies
I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
View 4 Replies
A couple weeks ago my 01 7.3 with 265,xxx started ideling rough and stalling. I had driven in all day Sunday and the next day it started out of the blue! It would barely start idle rough and stall out no CEL. I have singed changed the icp, fuel filter and I have checked oil level. Also used fuel cleaner. Still had no luck. When I changed the icp sensor the check engine light came on and was no change I then got a ford oem camshaft sensor and my truck fired right up but still sounded like it had a little miss here and there drove it for a few weeks fine now back to the same thing it will start up and idle fine for 10 seconds then start the rough idle but won't stall out anymore just idle rough. I am stumped I can't get any codes to pull up and if oriellys uses there scan tool while the truck was running it would shut the truck off! I can't find any answers.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2001 VW Passat Wagon 1.8t AUG. A couple of months ago, I took it into my shop for a check engine light. The did the following work on the vehicle:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced broken oil level sensor
Replaced outer CV boots
Resealed my transmission pan (it was leaking)
Replaced bad vacuum hoses
When I got the car back, it was idling really rough, and one time it even stalled. Just after starting it, when I hit the gas it wouldn't respond immediately and sputtered for a little while. Once I got going it was usually OK, unless I was going uphill...where it wouldn't perform as well and the engine noise kinda wavered. I also noticed that my gas mileage wasn't nearly as good as it used to be. (I never experienced any problems like this before they did this work) So I took it back to the shop and they replaced both the front and rear 02 sensors. I still had the same problem, so I took it back, and they replaced the fuel filter. Still has the same problem.
The light came on after a month, so I took it back and it was the random cylinder misfire code...and they said that didn't really know what to do about it. So I decided to take matters into my own hands. I cleaned the MAF sensor they installed (took it out and sprayed it with cleaner) nothing. I replaced the spark plugs and while doing so found that one of my ignition coils was bad, and I replaced that as well. Turns out the AutoLite plugs that a local parts store sold me are crap for this engine (actually caused misfires) so I went and got Denso double platinum plugs the next day and put those in. And finally I changed my air filter. Still having problems.
View 5 Replies
I have a 00 Accent with 132k miles, I replaced the motor a year ago with a correct 2000 Hyundai 1.5 with 50k miles. I replaced everything that I could at the time, timing belt , starter, water pump, and clutch. It has been running fantastic getting 40 miles per gallon with zero problems , However in the last week I have noticed a rough idle that seems to miss with a vibration that it didn't have before. I have a noticeable loss of power and torque. My miles per gallon has also dropped to about 25 mpg. My check engine light is not on. I will check the plugs and change the air filter today but I would like to know what else could be causing the problem as I am not really sure what to check.
View 9 Replies
my f150 running right so i can enjoy it like everyone else does. I have a 2005 Ford f150 with a 5.4 auto.
It has a rough idle(shakes the truck), very little power, and poor gas mileage. Randomly It will throw a code for misfire on 1 and/or 3 on start up only. It does seem to perform better within the first few of starting but dies right off after that. In fact i got stuck in the snow the other day and it could barely break the tires loose to try and get it out (almost put in 4low cause i didn't want to hurt the trans). I have replaced:
Cats
Fuel pump
Plugs (motorcraft)
Random Coils
Did the timing chains and phasers
MAF
All new injectors
Intake gasket
Was at my mechanics and had a scanner on it and at idle the 1-4 cylinders are all show a negative cylinder contribution. But when you rev it up they all go to 0 across the board. Was kind of thinking about the Variable Timing solenoid.
View 1 Replies
Explorer with 4.0 has a rough idle, just put new plugs & wires, air filter looks good. i did get a new fuel filter as well but haven't gotten to that yet. It has 102k. I have read some info about motor mounts could come lose casing the motor move a little more, not sure about that one. its the wife's haven't driven or looked into it yet, its on the to do list weekend. She also informed that it seems to lose power a little while driving sometimes, thinking possible fuel pump now?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2005 F-150XLT with the Triton 5.4L. The other day while driving on side roads (Paved, not back roads) I noticed my CEL on and it was blinking. There was a very rough idle as well as a big loss of power. When I pressed the gas pedal it was sluggish to say the least. I have yet to get a computer on it, since I had to order one. There is also a light gas smell, only smells near the rear of the truck. From what I am guessing, I think it is either a spark plur or a coil over pack, Truck has about 56K on it.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2006 Saab 97x. While the car is not very common, the GM 5.3L V8 in it, is. It runs perfectly fine under normal driving conditions but for the past several months it has been running like a Slaab instead of a Saab. It has been backfiring, sputtering and has had loss of power issues but only during hard acceleration.When my check engine light came on at 50k, the dealership changed all 8 iridium plugs and when it happened again at 75k, only one was replaced. Aren't these supposed to be 100k plugs? One of the exhaust manifolds has been replaced due to a leak and the other one has a leak now. Fortunately, all of the previous repairs have been covered by my warranty. Unfortunately, my warranty has run out and the other manifold is no longer covered and seemingly neither is this problem. Most recently, my new mechanic used some fuel injector cleaner something or other to no avail. I tow a 5000# camper and can't have these issues when summer comes. Is it the plugs, manifold, engine, something else?
View 1 Replies
2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
View 14 Replies
I have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
View 10 Replies
