Saab - 9-3 :: 2006 - Slow To Accelerate Whenever Come To A Stop
Dec 31, 2011
I have a 2006 Saab 9-3. Whenever I come to a stop and press the accelerator it is slow to accelerate. The check engine light is on, too. The rpm's do not rev up and the car slowly creeps by then eventually will start to get going. I took it in to the mechanic and they told me I need a new throttle body which they just put in. The car worked when I drove it home. Then after a couple of days it is doing the same thing.
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I have a question, regarding the 5.0 v10. When i accelerate from stop, it has a delay, and a slow start, something like it would start in 2nd gear, but it doesn't (it's in 1st). Is the torque somehow limited whet accelerating from a complete stop? Because while driving, the acceleration is instant, and drives normally.
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Our 98 Saab's A/C seems to have a slow leak. Do-it-yourself, stop-leak, A/C recharges available at stores like Advance and NAPA Auto?
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I bought 02 convertible in 2012 with 100,0000 on it, now 122,000, love it other than it turns over very slow almost like its not going to start but it always does, we recently had it tuned up new fuel filter , battery and car still turns over very slow.
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The car started fine...upon pulling out of the parking lot, the check engine light came on. After a couple seconds, the engine slow cut out and then wouldn't restart. After 20 minutes, I tried again and it started. When I pressed the gas it would only creep. I then had to floor the engine to get it to move. I'm not sure but I don't think I felt or heard the car shift, it's an automatic.
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I just started getting this thumping sound, at very slow speeds from the bottom front end. What this could be. It sounds like it might be coming from the suspension or steering.
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I have a 2005 Saab 97x. It has auto-leveling air suspension. Recently, it seems to have developed a slow leak. When I drive all day, it is fine, but each morning when I go outside, the rear end is eight inches lower than it was when I parked it the night before. If I start up the car, the pump kicks in, and the rear end lifts to its proper level.
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When I slow down to come to a stop, my 2006 Pontiac Solstice lurches. Sometimes this is very scary as it is a hard lurch, sometimes it is just a slight lurch. The engine light is on. I have taken it in for this problem previously and the problem goes away but it has been acting up for the last few months.
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2008 Sonata Limited.
When I accelerate from a stop there is a metallic rattling in the engine compartment. My best guess is that it is near the middle and near the firewall. Can't see much under the hood in this area.
The rattling stops after about 60km/h or so and does not happen at all during cruising otherwise.
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Dropped my car off at the shop due to the transmission lag from stop to slow speeds. Sometimes it feels like I was dragging sandbags. Then all of a sudden the car wakes up and goes.
The shop said the fluid "looks" fine but seems to think there might be too much fluid in it. So here we go with a transmission service. I hope this fixes it.
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So of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose this since "the car's not supposed to be driven that way" - but I get a nasty rumbling noise when I accelerate from a dead stop with wide open throttle. It only lasts for the first few thousand RPMs in first gear, and after that it is gone.
I was guessing that it might be the transfer case or something like that, but it's really hard to tell. I do have AWD. I did not have any such problem in my previous GS, which was a 2007 (current is a 2010). It's worse when I accelerate around a corner, and it also makes a small noise when I'm going above 80ish mph, which of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose either.
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My wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
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Door speakers work for a few seconds when the stereo is turned on, but the door volume is just a bit lower than the front speakers. Then the door speakers stop sounding while the other car speakers continue. How can the intermittent door speaker function be corrected?
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Every time I come to a stop or accelerate from a stop theres this weird squeaking sound coming from I am guess in the suspension?? Whats causing this.
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I have a 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero that I bought back in August. Two weeks ago, I brought car into the dealership for a 90k road service. It had some idling issues (sometimes, upon starting it up (cold or not), the car would idle and sputter, but never actually die. During the tune up, they said there was a frayed cable, which they replaced.
Fast forward 1.5 weeks later. The check engine light has come on. And the car is now sometimes idling funny just as it was before, only now it actually sputters and actually dies sometimes upon start up. After it initially dies, if I start it up again, it runs fine up on the second start.
Took into the dealership this morning and after 2 hours of diagnosis, they say the check engine read-out is indicating the fuel pump pressure sensor is going out, and that's what's causing it to idle and stall. Is this diagnosis legit?
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The malfunction indicator lamp has been on in my '03 Honda Civic LX for some time now. The car shakes and has trouble accelerating, but not all the time. This usually occurs when the car is stopped, perhaps at a stoplight, in drive. The malfunction indicator lamp blinks when this happens. I brought it to have the codes read, and these came up; P0303 (this happened twice in one reading), P0420, and P0135.
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I have a Mazda 6i Touring 2009 (2.5L, 4Cyl.) with an engine failure. I don’t have any power. When I press on the gas, the revs go up but the car is slow to accelerate, hesitates and I get a CEL. So, I connected the car to an OBDII reader and got these two codes; P0403 and P2188.
I then went to my mechanic and had the vehicle tuned-up. I did an oil change, spark plugs change (The 2 in the middle were black, burned. The other 2 were OK) and a radiator flush. The car was still having the same problem so we decided to clean the MAF sensor, the throttle body and the EGR valve. Also, the air filter is OK.
After putting everything back in place, he also checked for a vacuum leak but didn’t find any.
We went for a ride and at first, it seemed a little bit better but after the car got warmer, same problem… I connected the car again and we got 3 more codes; P061B, P0300 and P2187. He deleted the EGR valve and we went for a ride to see if it was the problem but it felt the same.
He then decided to go for the injectors. After listening to the injectors, he found that the two in the middle are pulsating a lot faster than the other two on each side. So, this is probably why the system is too rich...
My mechanic connected a system to clean the injectors, took the rail out and tested them and said they were working fine, they are not clogged and have no leaks. He then switched the injectors to make sure. He put the 2 in the middle at the extremities and vice-versa. Same thing, the two in the middle were pulsating a lot faster than the other two even after being changed. So, this proved that the problem is not the injectors.
He took the new spark plugs out to check and the two in the middle were black burned while the other two were perfect. He also switched the coils just to see and the problem remains.
He doesn’t know what else to try… Even bought another PCM and programmed it to see if that was the problem but no, it does the same with the other PCM connected.
And same codes come out. Here with a freeze frame:
Confirmed Trouble Codes
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected (Powertrain, Generic)
P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation "A" Control Circuit (Powertrain, Generic)
P2188: System Too Rich at Idle (Bank 1) (Powertrain, Generic)
[Code] ....
And just found out that the oil smells like gas .... Why are only those 2 middle injectors receiving a signal to squirt more gas than the other two? What is going on? What could be the problem???
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I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with ~140,000 miles on it. Recently, it's started having a problem, where when I make a right hand turn, it fails to accelerate until the wheel is straight...as if it's revving but not catching/accelerating until I've straightened the wheel and am headed straight onto whatever road I've just turned onto...does that make sense?
It tends to happen more at 1st start up in the morning...and then, once its warmed up it's not as bad, but still present. Left hand turns I don't notice it...maybe because they aren't as sharp? Also, fyi, the check engine light has been on for a while, but I know this is due to the catalytic converter..and am saving up to get that replaced.
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2004 Mazda M3 . My auto is making grinding sounds at first-slow speed until it accelerates. It has 70,000+ miles.What could this be? What should-could be done for this concern.
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My '02 Elantra would have a hard time starting up in the winter right after I filled the gas to full. Usually I would have to give it some gas to startup. After that, it didn't have problems starting up until I filled it again. This was only in the winter.
About a month and a half ago, it became really slow to accelerate. Since the O2 sensor light had been on constantly for a long time I never bothered to check it. Soon the car became really slow to accelerate and would lunge forward in spurts. The error codes I got were P0133 and the O2 sensor. I replaced the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, and this seemed to do the trick. The check engine light went away, the car sped up nice and quick. Also at that time, I put in some fuel injector cleaner.
The a couple weeks ago, P0133 and P0420 came back. It seems like the car is using up more gas than it should. There is a very minimal sluggish response when I push the gas. I have a spare ignition coil, but trying to find what it could be more specifically before I swap out more parts willy nilly.
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Whenever I slow down for a car to turn or accelerate after a stop sign the ice cold air goes away and is replaced by warmer air but then it never turns back cold. Only when I kill the engine and start back up does it return. I just had the Freon refilled and there are no leaks.
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