Saab - 9-3 :: 2004 - Rusting At Alarming Rate?
Apr 21, 2011
I have an '04 Saab and have been a little concerned about it's corrosive future. In the last year I've noticed many tiny rust specs all over my car. I've always kept up with washing it, especially in Winter but nonetheless the problem seems to be getting worse. What should I do? Is there a shop I should go to to have it coated with a rust treatment or get it painted? Is that sort of thing expensive? Is there a way I could have prevented this?
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My 2004 V8 phaeton has been burning oil at what seems like an alarming rate. between services it uses 5-6 US quarts. at the last service (~45k miles) i mentioned this to the mechanic who took a look around and could not find any signs of leaks. since then i have put in 5-6 quarts of oil, one quart at a time when the check oil warning come on, usually after or during a long road trip and I just took it in for its 60k service ( since i was late on the 40k, and because i was living a stereotype by having my other car still in the shop, and yes its a jaguar, i decide to wait until 60k for its next service.) The service rep told me he had looked up the technical bulletin and it stated that the v8 phaetons can burn up to 0.2quarts/600miles, and this would be considered normal.
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I have a 2007 passat when I drive it constantly to turn the engine off immediately because the oil is low, it even did this right after having the oil changed. I had the oil pumped changed at the dealer per their recommendation and even after that the car still gave me warnings about low oil every time I drive it. it's to the point now that I am afraid to drive the car. I had the car chipped at 1500 miles there is now 77,000 on it so I've basically had it chipped since new.
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So I decided to start the year with fresh oil. Like the hundreds of oil changes before, i changed the filter and added new oil. Only this time, oil started to drip off the bottom of the Oil filter at an alarming rate, only when the engine was running.
I figured the filter didn't seal well, so I repeated the oil change process. nothing changed, still leaking.
It was really cold (-10 C) when I did the oil change, I mention this in case it is a contributing consideration.
My truck is a 2000.
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Today the flow rate of the air out of the vents on my Prius has noticeably dropped.
It makes no different which vents I select (front, feet, or windscreen).
The blower seems fine - it's still making its normal noise.
The air still blows out nice and cold, there just isn't much of it coming out, even on full blast.
I've pulled the cabin air filter and checked it's not clogged, so it seems like there must be a blockage downstream of the blower.
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Have a rusty brake booster? My truck is an 07' with 55k. Brakes work great, but the booster is rusting all over. Should I replace? The lower steering shaft doesn't look so great either.... I'm trying to attach a picture, but I'm having some issues.
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Having issues with rear wheel wells rusting, mine is a 2004 f-250. I wax at least 10 times a yr. Can't believe I have rust there...
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I am seeking an all metal radiator for my 2004 Saab model 93 turbo to protect the automatic transmission from antifreeze contamination. I have looked and only see metal radiator cooling fin cores with plastic tanks? Where can I find an all metal radiator for my Saab model 93?
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So I've noticed this alarming engine rattle when I first start car as if there is no oil? It only lasts a few seconds! Was it diagnosed with Hyundai? Maybe a quirk of the motor, but seems like over time would cause excessive wear on engine?
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Has 118,000 miles and we have replaced speed sensors and changed transmission fluid and updated computer software. It runs perfectly for 30 minutes whether driving in town or highway but then hesitates and jerks when shifting from 1st to 2nd and downshifting also. After it shifts into 3rd, it is fine. Repair shop says it could be gear box or computer problem. No one in town seems to know what it is for sure. 2004 Saab 9.3 2.0T
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So I use my sunroof pretty regularly and a week ago I opened it to an alarming creaking sound. It opened fine but when I closed it it sits. I called the dealer and even though I only have 20k miles the warranty expired 2 weeks ago. How screwed am I here?
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On Friday (outside temperature 2 degrees), my TPMS started alarming the usual (CHECK TYRE PRESSURE). So I looked at the display and all four "tyres" had an exclamation point. So I took out my $1 tire pressure gauge and all four tires were 44 psi. After re-setting the TPMS, all is back to normal.
I wonder what happened there?
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Been searching but can't find a clue. I replaced my steering gear box. Went fine, but after starting back up. My alarm goes off, my cruise or horn doesn't work and my air bag is giving a code 32.
Is there a ground wire or something I could of missed when installing the gear box?
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I have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Currently the Battery Warning Light has come on. It came on while the car was being driven. The car's performance seemed to suffer and it was hard to turn the steering wheel. We were about two miles away from home and we somehow managed to get home but we simply couldn't get the car to turn on to our driveway because of loss of power for steering.
We checked the Saab manual and it reads : Warning Charging - This light comes on together with 'triangle/exclamation' light if the battery is not charging. If it comes on while you are driving, stop the car as soon as possible and switch off the engine.Check the alternator drive belt. If the belt has broken, the engine may overheat (cooling system will not function properly), the battery will not be charged, the A/C compressor will not run and power assistance for steering will be lost.
Our observation:- We experienced the a/c not working too well- We had problem with steering - It was almost as if the steering wheel was locked. It was extremely hard to turn. Is this an alternator belt or a battery issue? If so, how do we figure out?
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Van has 144k miles on it. It's been well maintained (see my other posts). I have had it since new (7 miles). The LIM was done preventively at about 75k miles (5 years ago).
Two to three years ago it started using/leaking etc coolant at a very slow rate. I would estimate somewhere in the 8-10 fl oz per 3-4 month range. As time has gone on it has been progressively using more. Now it is about 12-14 fl oz in about a month or 6 weeks. My "low coolant" indicator came on the other night. It had been a while since I added any coolant mix. 3-4 months anyway. It took about 1/2 gallon (US). There has been no "real" visible leak,up to now. I noticed yesterday when I was under it doing an oil change, that there was a "film" on the bottom of the trans pan. I followed the trail as best I could and it led me to the rear of the engine near the drivers front wheel. It was a small drop of coolant. (I tasted it). Don't try this at home... From the top of the engine looking in, I followed the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing "pipe". It is very difficult to see in there. I took a few pix. [URL] ....
It looks like there is a little pool of coolant sitting near or under the thermostat housing that pools on top of where the transaxle bell housing meets the engine block. It's very hard to to see in the pix. Some of what looks to be damp, is actually shadow. This pool I believe runs down the back of the engine/trans, and then is blown on top the trans pan and undercarriage.
The van runs great, I want to keep it for the next 9 years. There is no coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. Unless the fix is fairly easy, the leak is still small enough that I am not going to bother with it until it becomes a large leak. The car runs cool even in the hot summer pulling a load. The only issue is the leak and that I have to add coolant every once in a while.
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it's got these spots and they are rusting. It's only on one side of the window and no where else on the car. Will post pictures shortly. I have never heard of a window rusting. But it looks like some sort of coating on the window that is rusting but when I removed the rust it goes below the surface of the glass.
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While getting my oill changed, the pit guy reported my oil pan was rusting. I happened to be at the non local friendly FORD Dealer and mentioned it to the Service Manger who told me it was "the lousy steel FORD uses and your Differential covers are probably rusting out, too". And they are - from the inside out.
Seems strange to me oil bathed steel could rust, but the Dealer said the engine had to come out to replace the oil pan with an OEM. He would install a SS aftermarket, but he wouldn't warrent the pan.
So, where can I get a Stainless Oil Pan and Diff covers for a 2003 7.3L X?
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I have a 2001 Golf with a 2.0L motor. I've had this issue for a while now; the motor burns oil at an unreasonable rate - around a quart every 1200 miles. If I'm at a long traffic light and idling, a lot of white smoke will come out the back when I start moving. I don't notice smoke any other time. Also, the gas mileage is reduced by about 75 miles per tank when it's cold outside.
I have recently replaced:
temperature sensor
thermostat
plugs & wires
cleaned mass airflow sensor
The last mechanic I went to, who I will no longer be using, as he is incompetent, thought the cause for the lost cold weather mileage and burning oil is the PCV valve. A friend thought it would be a worn head gasket. I'm having trouble finding any info on PCV valves for this motor.
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My hitch is rusting so bad that I can pull it off in pieces. Surprisingly it seems to be the only major rust on my EX. I crawled under it the other day to check out how it is removed and I only saw half of 4 bolts. Those bolts look like they are under the fuel tank and I can't get my socket onto them.
My question is, do I need to drop the fuel tank to remove the hitch, and also is there anything else I should do while the fuel tank is down.(Besides replacing the hitch with a new one.)
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Looking for any creative solution for roof rusting that does not involve a major body shop repair and paint job. I was wondering if it could be chemically neutralized and then covered (sealed) with something like Line X?
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I am throwing a code for long term fuel trim being out of whack (code 17560) and I am trying to determine whether the MAF is causing it.
I pulled several redline runs while logging flow rate in vagcom. According to Ross tech's site they suggest that your flow rate should be around 80% of the engines rated horsepower. So approximately 200 g/s. I did several runs and never broke 100 g/s so what I should be seeing or has run into this code before.
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