Saab - 9-2x :: 2005 - Misfiring On Cylinders 2 And 4
Aug 7, 2015
My 9-2 is misfiring on cylinders 2 and 4. At first we suspected a timing issue but that doesn't appear to be the case. My mechanic is looking at it but can't seem to locate the problem... so far:
- replaced old spark plugs
- checked the coils (moved them to see if the misfiring followed the coils--it did not)
- checked the timing belt (all good)
- compression is good
- fuel coming in is rich
He's dropping the exhaust today to check things from that end... A faulty mass airflow sensor wouldn't effect specific cylinders would it? and we'd see a degradation in the fuel richness right?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Avalon Limited with 106k miles. Check engine light detected Cylinder misfire in cylinders 3 and 4 at 99K even though I didn't feel the car driving any differently. At the time I was planning to drive the vehicle across the country and so maybe I freaked out, but a friend and I replaced all the spark plugs and coils at the same time (I knew the back 3 were a real pain).
Then at around 104K miles (after letting car sit for 8 weeks) I noticed my car was jumping a bit while idling at lights and the RPMs would dip about 50-100. It felt like I was running out of gas even though the tank was full. For the last 2k miles the idle problem has gotten slightly worse and I think I can even detect a misfire while driving in hilly terrain (although this could just be the oft complained about jerking transmission issues that plague the Avalon). There is NO check engine light illuminated and no codes.
what may be causing my car's idle to dip? It can't be the new plugs and coils already can it? How can I tell if there is a leak somewhere or if the fuel injectors are dirty?
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I am having a problem with my 2006 Saab 9-3 Aero Combi Wagon w/130k miles. When idling, driving up hills, and accelerating to pass, the engine seems to miss multiple cylinders. I've had all spark plugs replaced within the last year, and all the cylinder coils were checked after bringing the car in for this problem (one was replaced). I took the car in yesterday to address this problem and the mechanic stated that he didn't know what to do. The check engine light is on, and the mechanic told me that the readout states that their might have been a problem with the gas cap, but they checked it out and it looked sound. Could this be a fuel pressure problem? spark plug wires?
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According to the OBDII, I have a misfire on #3 & #4 cylinders. Im getting codes PO300, PO303, PO304 and PO171.
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So last night i was driving and i made a turn onto the highway and speed up to pass this slow ass car :thumb down: and as i did i lost acceleration and my car started to rumble like when you use a high gear when u make a turn while moving that slow acceleration. And as that happened my engine light turned on and my EPC so i drove it well barely made it home. i had a friend with his VAGCOM come to see whats wrong it said cylinder 1&3 are miss firing so he took his ignition coils out of his car swapped them in my car and we drove it around and it drove fine and no fault codes. so now my issue since i have GIAC, CAI and APR full exhaust if my warranty will cover to have them put new ignition coils since i did get an extended warranty. I'm just afraid they won't.
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Is it possible that disconnecting battery causes a misaligned throttle body, which in turn causes the EPC light to come on? And does a misaligned throttle body also cause misfiring cylinders (1 & 2 in this case)?
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A couple of months ago I replaced my coils because of misfires. Just yesterday I satarted getting the running in 3 cylinders feeling. So I was woundering why they went out so fast? (Coils were from my brothers 20th gti)
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2000 Excursion V10.
Recently cylinders 1,2,3,4 wend dead on my wife's Excursion. I searched here for a pin out diagram so I can check all the wires from the coils to the PCM. I changed the coils on those 4 cylinders with no change and then swapped them with the coils on the left side of the engine. the problem stays on those 4 cylinders. Any link to pin out the wire harness for the coils to the PCM
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So I have a 2004 jetta GLI (1.8T) with forge splitter valve and short ram intake. I went and got my codes pulled and all 4 cylinders misfiring and random misfires. I replaced both coil packs and spark plugs. check engine light popped up again after about 20 miles and same thing. I just bought the car so I'm not sure how long it has been running with these misfires. I just got the timing belt replaced. I know it could be off a tooth. (Wouldn't a code pop up though for it?) How could I check that. And I also took my MAF sensor off as well and no change. Heard it could be clogged cat, any way to check? I've also cleaned the throttle body. It runs fine when I'm driving, just a rough idle.
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My friend has 2000 12v vr6 auto and recently he experienced his car bogging under acceleration. He had the plugs and wires recently done to solve the problem and the problem went away for a day and has since returned. I scanned it and here are the codes that its threw. After doing some research i'm thinking its the coil pack, since it was pretty foggy/damp today (when the problem started again).
17626.p1218 - fuel injector for cylinder 6 (N84): short to b+
16690.p0306 - Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
16684.p0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
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So as I was heading out the other day, the car had low acceleration and engine shaking. The check engine light started flashing.
Checked the codes at the parts store: P0300, P0301, P0303.
I just dropped it off at the auto repair shop.
Could it be a I'm just wondering if I shouldn't have taken it to the dealer as the printout says it could be a CPU issue?
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So my 2008 accent is my daily driver. I'm nearing the 300,000 mile mark but the last 100,000 miles have been plagued with random multiple misfires. I have changed the cables, crankshaft sensor, plugs, and I've been through numerous costly coils (I keep 4 with me). All listed parts were most recently changed at the same time. Why do I misfire on nearly every commute and get stuck operating on 3 cylinders?
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97 F150 4x4 XLT 5.4L... I had two cylinders misfiring, removed COP, injectors and plugs. Reinstalled all parts and reconnected all sensors. Now I am not getting fuel to the injectors. Double checked for disconnected wires and hoses, checked all fuses and relays, also the inertia switch. Fuel pump does not hum when key turned on. Tried hitting bottom of gas tank. My question is, before I pull the tank again, is there something under the hood I may be missing. It does get quite crowded at the rear of the motor.
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2014 F350 6.7... The truck has only 30000 miles on it. I was driving uphill and the engine just quit, but fired up right away after with engine check. On idling run at 500-700 rpm , no power, clicking noise , sometimes shaking. Took to the closest dealer right away, they don't know what is it, but they want to rake of the engine . This truck is not under any warranty. This is my first diesel truck, didn't expect anything like this....
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I just bought a 99 F250 Super Duty with the V10. When I bought it, I knew it had 2 misfiring cylinders (4 and 10) because it was throwing P0304 and P0310 (only 2 codes), but wasn't concerned as I've had to take care of my wife's Escape with it's misfiring cylinders. I replaced the 2 coils and replaced the plugs with Motorcraft plugs from O'Reilly's, cleared the codes and she ran fine for a couple of days. Now I'm getting an intermittent misfire, it's only occasionally throwing a pending code of P0300 which is "Multiple Random Misfire".
I'm fairly certain it's an issue on the electrical side because if it were an issue with the injector or injectors it would be constant regardless of RPM... right? As it is now, it basically does it between 55-65 while in overdrive trying to pull a hill or slightly accelerate. Once it's shifted out and the RPMs go up to 2k+ it runs like a champ... and it kills my fuel economy. The way it's behaving is just like when a coil is bad, but it's saying it's not identifying a specific cylinder (saying it's multiple) and it doesn't always do it (about 60% of the time).
I checked the MAF and it's very clean (looks almost new), checked the vacuum lines (those I found without a manual) and couldn't find any leaks and when I changed the plugs all the plug wells were dry.
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SO this truck came into the shop yesterday with a really bad misfire. pulled the codes and got a misfire codes for cylinders 1-6 and also p1450 (unable to bleed fuel tank vacuum) and p068a (pcm/ecm power relay de-energized too early) i found a TSB related to the issue, TSB 10-25-7 i did as the tsb told me to do and pulled valve covers to check out the rocker shaft rollers and inspect for any signs of surface deformation or fatigue. they were fine on both sides.: ive got spark in all cylinders. fuel pressure was right around 55-60 the gauge was fluctuating pretty good. checked for bad fuel or water in fuel ect. fuel seems to be good. pulled O2s incase of plugged cats still ran like crap.
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I have a 2003 ford ranger edge with the 3.0l engine. It started acting up today so i brought it to get checked because the check engine light came on. Three codes where pulled p0300, p0306, and p0313. They were multiple/random cylinders misfiring, cylinder 6 misfire, and first misfire at 1000 rpm. I have replaced the plugs and coil and still have the trouble.
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I have a 2009 f250 with 5.4l 3v. have had the truck only about 6 months. it started missing about a month after I got it. I replaced all 8 cops and all 8 sp. The truck ran excellent until 11/29, then I got a cel and the truck started running really bad. Found 3 misfiring cylinders. Changed all 3 cops again and that did nothing. Pulled the injectors and found 2 of them were clogged, replaced those also. Still no change was told by someone that the ecm/cpu may need to be reset, did that also. Still no change. There are no codes present but still has the multiple misfires.
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My truck is skipping but if I give it more throttle it will stop but then will start back when I let off the throttle. It seems like it is only running on half the cylinders. This problem is intermittent which makes it very hard to troubleshoot even for the dealership and other places I have taken it. Also, the problem is temperature sensitive. It only does it below 40 deg. F. Truck runs fine any other time of the year. Truck has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, egr valve, O2 sensor. Also, the IAC has been cleaned. The check engine light does not come on.
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Started this winter as a misfire on random cylinders. I replaced all apart plugs and verified the gap. Replaced all the coils. Still occurred during the cold months. Once it warmed up it went away for a short while. The only codes present at the time were random misfire codes. Took it to a shop and they told me the injector was bad on cyl 1. Today I replaced the injectors with a matched set of 4 matched flow Denzo remand. Ran it on the TIS tech tool and was given a barrage of codes. I can unplug #1 coil and it will smooth out and stall within 90 seconds. Engine runs rough. Intake was just done as well. From Toyota TIS
P3191 – engine didnt start
P3000 - Battery Control System
P3101 – engine system malfunction
P3190 – poor engine power
P1300 - ignition circuit malfunction #1
P0303
P0302
P0301
P0300
c1259 - ABS error code meaning problem with regenerative braking. Probably caused by me forcing the car to recharge the HV while misfiring. HV battery was getting dangerously low from sitting for the last 6 months.
b0116 – LH airbag circut
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I have a 2012 F250, 6.2L, Crew Cab, FX4 with a little over 77,000 miles on it. I bought it used from a Ford dealership last summer. Prior to now, I've only had one issue with it and that was squirrel/rodent induced. Something chewed through the wiring harness right before the connection to the #7 cylinder. There was enough left over wire to solder it back together and put heat shrink around each wire.
It ran fine up until last weekend. The wife and I went to a store, she was driving and parked like a total jerk right in the front area of the parking lot. When we got back in the truck, she started it up and it was just running rough with hardly any power. My first thought was someone dumped something into the gas due to her amazing parking, but there were no smells or residue of anything near the gas cap when we got home only a couple miles away.
When I got home I ran my code scanner and found 300, 301, 305, 307, and 308. I dumped a bottle of ISO-Heet in it, let it sit for a bit then cranked her up and ran it for a few miles to the gas station and filled up...about 25/26 gallons, I don't remember...I was a little above 1/4 tank when this all started. No change in performance and the codes were all still the same. I pulled the MAF, it looked clean, but I wiped it down anyways and threw it back in. No change. I then changed all the plugs. This took care of 301 and 305 but 300, 307, and 308 were still coming up. I then picked up two new coil packs for cylinders 7 and 8, threw them on and still no change.
I sat with it running on a flat surface for a little while revving the engine randomly for about 15 minutes, during this I noticed a fast tapping noise at about 3400 RPM, it went away quickly with no changes in the gauges on the dash. I cant really tell where it's coming from, but kinda sounds like its under the middle of the truck. While sitting there I ran the codes again, and now its back to 300, 301, 307, and 308. I'm now at a loss of what to even look at...
I've also checked the voltage coming off the harness at the connector to the coil packs...just under 11 volts. I've searched all over for what that voltage is supposed to be, but have failed miserably in my searches.
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