Saab - 9-2x :: 2003 - No Smoke / Check Engine Light / Leak But Smells Like Burning
Nov 8, 2012
I have a 2006 SAAB 9-2X, that I just bough used with 116k. The car rides great and I am really enjoying it. The one problem is that there is an intermittent smell of burning. Some days its strong, some days there is no smell at all. It is really weird. I took it to my mechanic for its inspection and he passed it and said that the care looked great. I havent seen a leak, the check engine light is not on and there is no smoke.
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Only had happened a few times in the last month. I start the car and it idles okay. drive down the road and then come to s stop and there's some blue smoke. It smells like burning oil. it only has happens 2 times in the last 2 months. only when its really cold it has happend. If I rev it when its happening I can see a big plume of bluish smoke and it smells like burning oil. after i drive after that no more smoke.
car has 95k on it
never been chipped
car has full turbo back and intake
car does not burn any oil between oil changes. oil stays at the same level.
did break an oil pan about 4 months ago. when I replaced it no signs on sludge.
turbo boosts fine
Car has had a rough idle for a long time. only when its a cold start and only last about 20 seconds. When I boost it or redline the car which is very rare no smoke at all. I have always kept the oil more on the high side of full. I usually fill it right to the high mark on the dip stick.
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I've had my 2001 Ford Ranger for almost a year now 240,000 miles, almost no problems until now. It doesn't overheat, but smoke is coming from the hood and smells like burning oil EVERYTIME I start it up & drive it. I don't think its a head gasket problem, but I could be wrong.
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I am not sure what is going on with my car. I have a 1998 saturn sc2 and this morning it started smoking from the tailpipe. The oil is black but the smoke smells like something is burning......
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So I run a custom sct tune as my daily driver. Every 6 months or so my turbo starts acting funny. I get a weird turbo bark on wot. The shift pattern gets thrown off. It feels like something is about to break in a bad way.
But then it fixes itself. I return my truck to stock and run a couple laps down the highway. It blows smoke, stinks, and smells like something is burning for about 15 minutes then it is fine. I change it back to the custom tune and it runs fine for 6 months again.
What this is? Is this an egr valve or ebp sensor?
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Last night I was driving in my 2003 jetta on the intersate at 65mph with the cruise control on. As I came into a turn I had to tap the brakes. As soon as I did the check engine light came on. The car was doing fine so I drove home from school. Today I drove the car to work which is a five minute drive, and back with no problem. I later went to grab lunch and bring it home and then I noticed the check engine light started flashing. I then felt the engine start to stutter, as if it was misfiring. We had the windshield defrost when we started to smell a rotten egg smell. Luckily we were pulling into our drive when we smelled the odor. I immediately turned off the car and got out. I couldn't smell the rotten egg smell, but I did smell burning plastic. I didn't see any smoke and could not pinpoint the cause of the smell.
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I have been having some engine/electrical issues with my 2003 saab 9-3 convertible. It started with the check engine light coming on I had it diagnosed as a map 2 sensor and transmission output sensor. The light went off and the car ran fine. Now the light is back on and the engine stalls out at random times (while accelerating, at idol, and now loses power during full throttle. It bucks on the highway).
Today while losing power blue smoke comes out of the tail pipe, but only during the power loss bucking. I also notice when there is a power loss or skip/bucking the turbo needle goes into the yellow/high mark. I am going to take it to a repair shop soon but what this might be? Also sometimes while driving when the bucking/skipping/power loss happens the gear indicator light on the dash goes from drive to neutral to reverse and park intermittently.
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Ok I just bought a used 2003 Ford Focus from a dealership which I am financing and after the second day driving the check engine light came on. Once I saw that I took it back to the dealer and he told me the sensor was very sensitive and because I didn't close the gas tank tightly the light came on. I didn't feel satisfied with this answer so I took the car for a diagnostic. They informed me that the car had a gasket leak. I then took the car back to the dealership and told them what I had been informed and the mechanic told me that it wasn't a big deal, nothing for me to worry about. Now I don't know much about cars and I have been doing a little research of my own and a gasket leak seems to be a big problem.
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I have a 2003 rav4 with about 100000 miles on it. Over the last 4 months I have noticed that, whenever I drive half hour or longer on the highway the car starts to smell like burning rubber or burning antifreeze or something like that. I live close to work, play, and groceries, so I don't drive it that long very often. I have not noticed decreased levels of any of my fluids. No change in performance either. I've had the oil changed regularly and no problems there. I am about to drive it a thousand plus miles and would love to get this figured out before I go.
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We bought a new 2012 Volvo XC 70 wagon. It only has 6,000 miles on it and the Check oil light has gone on three times. Each time it has required approximately one quart (which the dealer claims is "within specs" for this engine). I believe it satisfies the lemon law criteria in PA since it has been back to the shop three times in less than a year. Should I insist on a replacement or is this "normal" wear for this car.
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Ok my R is all stock 59k miles. This morning I was getting on the freeway and some AMG hold was on my ass so I floored it and accidentally hit the rev limiter. After that It smelt almost like burnt rubber in the car. I rolled the windows down and the smell went away in about ten min. I didn't lose any power and no check engine light came on. When I got to work I got out and looked under, no fluids leaking. But the smell was still there. I'm gonna look at it more after I get home from work.
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At 202,000 miles, my 2002 Saab 95 engine went out -- the motor clanks and spews clouds of smoke. I want to replace the motor with a CarFax verified low mileage engine because I plan to keep the car for a few more years and give it to my son. My mechanic will charge around $900. But the engine prices vary on miles, of course. The lower mileage has higher prices, etc.
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So I have 69,500 miles on my car. I leave it parked on a small hill for 3 days and when I turn it on after 3 days of sitting it sounds like it is going to stall and the check engine light blinks. I roll it to the bottom of the hill and turn it on and the light doesn't blink but just stays on. On top of this, randomly but always after stopping when driving i smell a really strong burning oil smell. The smell is so bad i have to open the windows.
I don't think it has anything to do with the CEL but it has been happening for some time. It only smells after you have been driving (mostly Highway) and then stop. It wont happened if your in traffic or driving around town, you have to be on the highway then get off and stop and you smell it. It can happen once a month or twice a week, it is completely random.
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I have a 2008 Mazda CX-7, I take it in routinely for oil changes. somewhere between oil changes, there was an oil leak that had developed. no warning lights came on - no check engine light or oil light but the levels were low. I don't know how long it was leaking for, there was never any oil in the driveway or garage.
Any way, I took it to my dealer when diagnosed it with a dye test and told me that I needed to replace the oil filter, gasket and the entire oil cooler to properly fix the leak.
My question is for an opinion as to how urgent this repair is or if I should try and take it to a local mechanic, not my dealer. I have to say my dealer's service is less than desirable anyway. I have been checking the oil levels since I had it in on the 20th of January and it has not gone done. there are small spots on occasion on the driveway but nothing too major and I have not had to add oil to it since I had it looked at.
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Naturally, the dealer service close to me and my regular repair shop are both closed today, so my mind is racing. My check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and I have been waiting for my guy to get back for it's full 80+K workup/service. That was to be right away.
This morning on my 5 mile trip to work after my car sitting for a day, the check engine light came on as usual (with no seeming weird behavior) - but as I was going through some S-curves, the EPC light came on and it felt as if the engine was throttling down, not knowing how to shift, something.
I wasn't far from my parking lot so I drove on here, parked nose out and popped the hood. Nothing visible (not that there would be necessarily) but weird exhaust smell.
I just went back out after lunch and it cranked for a good 20+ seconds over three start attempts before it finally did. Tach went all low and jiggly before kicking in and revving steadily at 1K. However, white puffs of smoke began coming out the exhaust - weird smell (e.g., unburnt fuel perhaps...)
I'm only in a mild panic as I'll likely have to have this towed in and I don't have a clue what I'm facing. I get conflicting tales online as to what it might be but I'd love to impose on your brains if you have some insight to share. I've read about coil packs, throttle bodies, and more.
The only mechanical issue I've had with this engine was that I had the intake manifold assembly replaced right after my warranty went out. Had the throttle body cleaned then, too. Nothing since other than regular services according to vw standards.
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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I bought a 2003 Vw Gti 1.8t ... What to do or look for when something goes wrong . About a two months after driving it, it won't idle and it shuts off while in Neutral . I've done my research and i believe he didn't install the BOV in right, only bc it is not recirculates the air. Make sense? Is there ANYTHING i can do so it will run better and idle?
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I recently replaced my brake calipers on BOTH sides because they had seized up and were dragging on the rotors and pads. T This is a bit of enlightenement for me because I think I know what killed my poor brake pistons!
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Took about a 200 mile trip this weekend, stopped at a rest area about halfway through and smelled burnt carbon, smelled like a burnt clutch almost. It was very strong and there was smoke coming from the engine. It wasn't a lot but it was cause for concern. I checked the oil, last oil change about 1500 miles ago but no problems there, temp gauge was in the middle. Let the car sit for a 10 mins or so and then headed of again. When I got home that night, couldn't smell it and there was no smoke. Car has 42K ... Also, I got an airbag fault light about 30 mins from my house.
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I have a 2000 B5 . It has minor damage front and rear (cosmetic only). Also, the check engine light stays on due to a vacuum leak somewhere between the MAF and the intake manifold. It would need a full paint job at some point after the body work was completed.
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I've had a check engine light on in my 3.5 Pontiac G6 for awhile now. It's an emission code (can't remember what code but evap leak). The solenoid by canister was also tripping a code that disappeared after I changed it. However, the evap code still persists. Last night while changing my oil I noticed the intake air hose to the crankcase had broke at the case and wasn't connected. It's the hose that runs from the engine intake to the crankcase for the PCV system.
I am replacing the hose regardless, but my question is; would the intake hose for the PCV system being loose cause an evap leak code? I am thinking no but it'd be nice if it was that simple.
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