Rough - Engines - Storm :: 2008 BMW X3 Hesitant On Acceleration After Driving In Dusty Weather Condition
Sep 6, 2011
I was caught up in the middle of the haboob (major dust storm) in Phoenix this summer. I drove through it in my 2008 BMW X3 (40K miles) for about 45 minutes. Ever since, the engine has been idling rough and hesitant on acceleration. I had replaced the air filter which was full of fine dust particles and thoroughly cleaned and vacuumed the internal of the filter housing. I also used Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner on a couple of tanks. The condition has improved a bit but it is still not back to how it was before.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
So I was washing my car today..... first wash since I got it.
Any ways so as I was drying it and finishing up ready to clean windows, i noticed my rear window is like half smooth (normal/perfect) and the other half is like kinda dusty/rough feeling look. I don't know how to explain it, i tried windex, rainx cleaner, bug and tar remover. nothing works....
What it is? and how to get rid of it?
View 1 Replies
I got a VW Certified R32 back in August and I'm loving every minute of it! I just have two little issues. When I floor it from a standstill, the acceleration seems hesitant almost as if something is holding back the power until I hit about 3500 RPM there's a slight break (as if it were shifting but its in 1st the whole time) and then there's a lot more power available.
Also, when ever I'm shifting there is a slight delay between when I press the paddle or push the shifter. I push the '+' paddle wait half a second or so, and then it starts the shift sequence. Only seems to happen when I try to shift between 2k and 4.5k RPM (4.5k+, the second I hit the paddle it starts shifting). Is this normal? Is this because of the AWD(never had an AWD car before)? Should I complain to the dealer?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2007 Explorer with around 79,000 miles on it and it has been in for assorted repairs over the last 6 months. Cooling issues, Losing all Coolant, Rough sounding engine, Stalling while driving, The mechanic has said they replaced much of everything each time I take it in. But now it was in for a fuel pump and while they were test driving it he said the Internal balance Shaft exploded and shrapnel is in the engine. His solution replace the engine with a 2008 has 38k on it for $2K. Does this sound right?
Do these Explorers have issues like this?
View 7 Replies
I just recently purchased an 05 Touareg V6 and I am a little concerned regarding the acceleration I am getting like after stopping at a light or trying to get on the highway. It seems that it takes this vehicle about 5-10 seconds to realize that it needs to get moving. However, after it does realize what it needs to do, the acceleration is fine. I was told different things such as it could be the turbo system and one thing I find very hard to believe that this is a characteristic of all VW's. I like my VW and don't want to get rid of it but would prefer better acceleration
View 2 Replies
The car had been idling a little rough lately and I'd noticed a drop in MPG. After trying a few easy fixes I finally replaced the O2 sensor a few weeks ago. The idle has leveled out but ever since then I've been getting periodic hesitant-to-non-existent acceleration. Sometimes it works just fine (better than it's been in years, actually) but then sometime it will take forever to accelerate from a stop.
I'll give it some gas and it will just roll forward at barely more than an idle for half-a-block until something kicks in and it levels out around 30mph. This doesn't happen consistently though and I can't see much of a pattern in when it happens or why. It seems to work a little if I ease into the gas very gently, and it is worse when I try to gun it. I was worried it might be the fuel injectors or the ignition coils.
View 2 Replies
When the outside air temp reaches above 70 degrees, my Blazer will die going down the road. It will not start for about five minutes, then starts up again. Also, I have took the overflow cap off, poured water in it, and it would start up fine. I don't know what is causing the problem, it runs great in fall/winter, but when it warms up, it starts doing this?
View 2 Replies
I drive a 2008 nissan sentra (98xxxmiles). I commute 100 miles daily and have an issue that occurs only when it is snowing. Regardless of how much snow is on the ground, every time there is decent snow fall my car will randomly buck. feels almost as though my transmission slips for just an instant and then regains control. for a while, i had to study this issue before i could fully wrap my head around it. I took the car to my shop and they could detect nothing wrong with the car, which is definitely not the case. I suspect that there is an issue with a sensor or an actuator involved with the overdrive that is having the issue. But I could be wrong.
View 11 Replies
While driving into town during a recent snowstorm, my truck started to misfire quite badly. The check engine light started to flash and then remained on as I went to the auto parts store. The code indicated cylinder two misfire. I don't a few things of dry gas in the tank and let it run for a few minutes which seem to solve the problem.
Since then, however,every time the engine gets even a little bit wet it starts to bark again. It usually lasts a few minutes then goes back to normal. Typically, I would have replace the plug wires. When I lifted the hood of my truck I realize I knew nothing about it.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2008 Accent SE and I'm having some issues... The car was driving fine the other day all the sudden check engine light came on started flashing then and just stayed on. This happen before and the car was under warranty so the dealership fixed it but now it ran out and it's happening again. Anyway the car is running very rough at idle like the car shakes and acts like it doesn't want to run. Also when driving it honestly feels like the car has no power or acceleration what so ever. I replaced the air filter with a brand new K&N filter, I also changed the spark plugs today. I put NGK's in and the problem is still the same. I had it hooked to a code reader and it said I had a misfire in cylinder 2. I thought the plugs would have fixed it but I guess not.
View 9 Replies
My 07 F150 has no power. I changed the timing chain, cam phasers, spark plugs and all 8 coils and still no power. Rough idle and bogs on acceleration.
View 3 Replies
I have a 04 FX4 scab with a 5.4L and am having issues with it idling rough, and low power and stumbling upon acceleration and cruising speed. I did a scan and the codes show lean run condition, misfire on cyl 4, etc. I changed injector and coil on #4 and it seems worse. Scared to change the plugs, until I can leave the truck down a day or two in the event that I break one or more.
View 10 Replies
I have a 1999 F250 SD V10 4x4. I recently had a transmission installed and the truck is running erratic. I have an engine miss (sometimes when idling, more so when in drive and foot on the brake). I say sometimes because there are times it will not miss and the engine runs smooth. The transmission shifts a little strange and sometimes hard.
I am getting a code reading that says my TPS is faulty, but I installed a new one a few months back.
The engine is running rough (jerky on acceleration) especially when driving. I was wondering if I should take it to a shop and have them flash the computer to reset it?
I also remove the AC compressor a while back (bad clutch). I installed an aftermarket pulley.
View 2 Replies
After scouring through hundreds of threads on this forum (which is Awesome, BTW), it seems as if this misfire / rough idle thing is fairly common (which is scary!!). CEL is on steady. Had the codes pulled; P0301, P0302, P0303. At the recommendation of the mechanic, I had the plugs replaced...no improvement. He then replaced the ignition coils...no improvement. Just finished replacing the MAP sensor. This actually had a VERY temporary positive effect. However, after about 5 miles of driving, the misfiring returned. Took the car to the Hyundai dealership, and they acted as if they didn't want to fool with it. They referred me to a couple of local repair shops...????
View 8 Replies
2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
View 14 Replies
In the 30,000 miles I have driven my Gen III, it has gone through three different sets of tires. Driving conditions during this entire time have been identical, and temperatures have been fairly constant. Therefore, I think my fuel economy data can be a good example of the impact that tire selection can have on your fuel economy.
I currently have 2400 miles on the Michelin Energy Saver A/S. These are the MPG stats, manually calculated.
Highest: 53.4
Average: 48.2
Lowest: 45.0
Standard Deviation: 2.4
In the 14,000 miles I had the Michelin Primacy MXV4, these were the mpg stats:
Highest: 50.1
Average: 42.7
Lowest: 37.0
Standard Deviation: 2.6
(I may be missing 2-3 tanks, so this is probably 90% of the fill-ups during the time in which I had the Primacy MXV4.)
Lastly, in the 14,000 miles that I had the OE Yokohama Avid S33d Tires, these were the MPG stats.
View 19 Replies
I have a 1999 mercury cougar and recently my acceleration has gone down huge, when i try to go onto a highway my car starts to chug, i have to push the pedal to the floor for it to actually start picking up speed a little faster, and once in a while i smell a sulfur smell!
Another symptom I have is my engine heat goes up 3/4 of the way when this happens! Also once in a while after driving while its hot the car starts to shake lightly then shakes a lot until i get off the highway and bring my speed from 110km/h to about 60k?
Engine codes: p1744
View 6 Replies
We have a 2008 Rav4 whose warranty expires tomorrow, 8/9/11. My wife thinks that on hot days, the air conditioning, when set on the highest level 4, will go into a "super-blow" state about 15 to 30 seconds after the knob is turned, and remain at the increased flow until the car cools. Then it quiets back to "normal". She told me a few days ago that she's not hearing the increased flow anymore at level 4 and thinks there's now something wrong with the car. She always has it on recirculate, so I know it's not caused by shifting to recirc. Does the Rav4 is even supposed to have this feature. It may be hard to get it into the shop tomorrow.
View 2 Replies
I have a new to me 2005 F150 with 86,000 miles. When I am driving through town at a low acceleration or a constant speed at between 40 - 50 mph the truck starts to sputter and kick a bit. When I give it some gas the problem goes away. This gets worse when I pull my bass boat, and starts at around 30 mph. When I hook it up to a reader I get a P0316 code. Only code I get.
Also when I am driving through my neighborhood between 20 - 30 mph I get a noise that sounds like there is a plastic bag stuck under the truck. I have checked under the truck to see if the firewall is loose anywhere, but could not find anything. Other than those two issues the truck runs great. What these problems could be?
View 2 Replies
How important is acceleration in defensive driving? If someone were extremely concerned with safety (because there’s a baby in the car, for instance) would it be worth sacrificing fuel efficiency for the extra power of a V6 engine?
View 19 Replies
2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!
View 2 Replies
