Riviera - Buick - Transmissions :: 1995 - Overdrive Go Off With Cruise And Will Not Go Back In
Mar 25, 2011
My car has been have overdrive problems for a long time while driving on the highway it will stay in overdrive as long as i keep my foot on gas pedal or brake or in cruise control as soon as i get on the highway. As soon as i go off cruise so does the overdrive and will not go back in till i shut the car off and start it right back up. It makes for a long trip. I had trany oil changed does not effect it at all.
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I have a 95 Buick Riviera. When you put the key in, the car won't start. Then, you take the key out, and it starts. Then the next time you go to start the car, it won't start.
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95 Buick Riviera Supercharger .... when turn blinker on, car dies....or won't start at all. Have to try several times and wait for indicator lights on dash to come on and for the door/key alarm to sound before can turn over car. Sometimes have to turn steering wheel til wheels are straight. Son started hitting/shaking steering to get it to start. Ignition Control Module?
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1992 buick riviera 3.8L
So working on the steering column I had to remove the lock plate. Everything went well with my repair, I have the turn signal switch installed but I can not for the life of me get the lock plate spring pushed down far enough to slip in that little ring. I believe the part I am having trouble with is the top bearing inner race. Here is a link to how this looks exactly on my car.
[URL] ......
AS soon as i took off the spring that pushes the lock plate I noticed this race was just loosely sitting and the steering column just wobbles around. What am I doing wrong?
I did this in this order. I just moved the top bearing inner race as far back as it will go (it still just wobbles around with the steering column). then I put the spring in so that it touches the race. finally I place in the lock plate and compress it with the lock plate tool. However it simply will not compress enough for me to slip in the ring and lock it in place. Am i doing something wrong ? Is there some part of the bearing that should go in before this race?
The picture with the red background is how I am inserting these parts. The spring sits on this race but I cant compress it enough. Like i cant get it aligned properly or something.
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Buick Riviera 1998 Supercharger
Oil LEVEL light comes on and car shuts off. Take note...NOT oil pressure light- which is the one that looks like a genie lamp. It says OIL LEVEL. This trips up every mechanic I have spoken to.
Doesn't stall (like sputter and die) just shuts off like a safety switch has been tripped or something. But it is an older car 1998 Buick Riviera Supercharger. You wouldn't think it would have that safety feature but maybe. You can start car but if I put it in reverse or even when I am driving the car oil LEVEL light will come on and car will shut off. Only happens when we get to normal operating temp.
So here is what I did. First, changed oil and filter just to be sure there was no odd clog and it was due anyway. Still had the same symptoms.
Next, I discovered that we have a separate supercharger oil reservoir. No mechanic that I spoke to knew this. I changed the oil in the reservoir because the level was low and I am sure that it has never been changed. Didn't work.
Next, I changed the oil PRESSURE sensor because even though I know it says oil level I figure it has to do with a misread on pressure. Didn't work.
Next I disconnected the wires going to the oil level sensor to test and see if it is a funky level sensor. Plus I didn't feel like changing the oil again in order to change the sensor. Didn't work.
Next. I changed the oil level sensor. Still...a no go. Drive for a bit and get up to normal operating temp and oil LEVEL light comes on and car shuts off.
Note: there is no sound. No sputtering or clanking or anything.
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We have a lovely 1998 Buick Riviera with less than 140,000 miles. Normally, it runs great but in the last year, it has developed a neurosis. When we try to start it, 98% of the time, it starts immediately. Once in awhile, you can place the key in the ignition, "click" and nothing. It's as if the car were dead. Trying over and over is a waste of time. You have to wait about 5 minutes or so and WHAM! ... it starts right away. Then it will continue to start fine for days and have a relapse. I can usually tell that it is about to happen because there will be a tiny (fraction of a second) gap between the moment we turn the key and the response. It will do this 4-5 times and then "play dead". Wait 5 minutes and no problem. Then it will continue to run fine for days - even weeks.
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I recently worked with a friend get a '95 regal custom 3.1 with 178k miles and the only issue I cant figure out on my own is that the back up lights never come on when either shifting into reverse or through it. I've checked all of the fuses and replaced the bulbs and still not even a flicker.
I have researched online a bit and my only idea is it could be the back-up light switch/neutral position switch.. Would that be an accurate guess? And if so where at on the vehicle would that switch be located?
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My 1996 Buick Park Avenue had problems finding reverse. You would have to move the shifter in and out of reverse and get it in just the right spot to go into reverse. once it is going in reverse you can hear a slight ticking sound like the park gear isn't totally disengaged. now it is nearly impossible to find reverse and when you put it in neutral its like it is in park.
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I have a 2000 Buick Century with 212k miles on it. I would like to sell it. The problem is the transmission overdrive solenoid keeps getting stuck open. It's not a big deal once I get going 55mph or so. It's just that it's kinda "jerky" before getting up to that speed. Is this something that can be fixed by having the transmission system flushed or is it a problem of having to replace the transmission? How do I sell this car (even for dirt cheap) if I have to tell the interested persons that the transmission is going out???? Can I get a thousand bucks for it simply for the fact that it does run? I have been driving it until yesterday, fairly regularly.
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, My 1997 Buick Lesabre transmission slips at random when I shift into overdrive. I have my mechanics look at the transmission and have them drive the car to recreate the problem and what do you know the car doesn't do it. I made a post about this problem a while back and it wasn't the A/C that was the problem. I do not drive fast in the car and I checked the Transmission dipstick and the fluid is still red and at the full mark. I brought my car to Auto zone to check the codes but all i get is a loose gas cap.
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I bought this van (1995 chevy van 20) last year and the rear end made some sounds but not as bad as its now.
So, after buying it I decided to open up the rear end and inspect for any damage to suggest it needs repairs. No signs of metal chips, nicks, or any wear on the bearings and gears. After a while of driving it I decided to remove the carriage and pinion from the rear end to give it a close inspection. After doing this and finding no clear sign of war or damage, i decided to replace the carriage barrings to see if that made a difference. After placing the new bearings back on the carriage, pinion back into the rear differential, and trying to do it all by myself, i lost the marks i had placed on the carriage bolts and clamps since I had little time to get it back together.
After that I had no other choice but to place the clamps bolts where i could estimate they belong. I was done, then drove it and some of the noise went away but a grinding sound on decelerating emerged. Well, now that sound is gotten worst and its more like a grinding sound. I can assume that not placing back the bolts and carriage clamps back changed the position of the carriage relative to where it was, but am not 100% sure. how can I correct the positioning of the carriage? if that is not the issue what test can i perform to find the culprit?
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My car is taking a long time shifting from reverse to drive in the morning. Do you know what may be causing it and how to fix it. It's a 1995 automatic ford explorer.
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I have a 95 f150 5.0 with a 4r70w Trans. What to check now no overdrive Trans shifts and drives great but no od the od off light on shifter is lit up and just never goes into overdrive solenoids have been replaced and new shift lever and button where do I go from here is not throwing any codes...
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My 01 tundra can bog down under load - going up a long hill or towing a trailer - with the speed and RPMs steadily dropping until it finally downshifts, and the RPMS shoot up to 4k or so, but I don't regain much speed. This is without cruise control. If I have the cruise control on the problem does not occur. The truck slows, but in a normal way expected under the circumstances. The CEL is not on. No codes are being recorded. The Tranny fluid is full and smells fine.
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I have a `95 explorer with the 4.0 motor. The electronic overdrive off indicator light (O/D Off) on dash started flashing today. The transmission seems to be shifting into overdrive. Owner's manual says to have it checked as damage can be caused. What I should be checking?
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My 95 ford Aerostar 3.0 automatic trans wont shift into overdrive, here's what happened. a small hose on the side of the transmission came off, this must have popped off when I was stepping on the gas with the brake on in drive and reverse. It took 2 months to find the hose off, during those 2 months I had to shift the van manually, you had to get high RPMS before it would shift.
About 2 weeks before I found the problem I notice the van would not kick into overdrive. When I finally found the issue and reconnected the hose the trans shifted fine but still would not kick into overdrive though. Is there another vacuum hose that goes to the main vacuum housing? or an adjustment on the linkage area? This has been like this for about 6 months now and I can go on a highway..
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I have a 1995 Explorer 4x4, and starting last month i have been having an intermittent problem with bang shifting, the only time the bang shifting occurs is when the overdrive off light flashes, the only time the O/D Off light flashes is after driving the interstate or driving around town on hot days, after a few days or a few weeks the light turns off and its shift normal and no bang shifting, but i have a new problem now, the O/D Light off started flashing last night after driving the interstate and I noticed on my way home that it wont shift, it hit 4000rpm and i had to tap the break and accelerate again to make it shift, I went to AAMCO and they wont give me the codes the only thing they said is they want to do a soft parts rebuild, and something about hte gear ratio being off, i dont have the money to spend for a new trans or have one rebuilt, i would like to fix this myself.
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I just bought an older 1995 Ranger XLT 4.0 I was told that the truck is stuck in overdrive. The overdrive light is not working and the button does not respond. It shifts smooth but run away with it's self. It is not shifting a lot going up hill and curves.
I got a diagnostic and it did not show codes. I was told the trani has had an oil change and filter with no metal parts in the oil. Since the overdrive switch is know for a short in the steering column maybe when they looked at it they did not know what they were doing.
I am driving it only once or so a week. But don't want to hurt it. A friend did the first work and had it diagnostic done yesterday.
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About the Car: It has 101,00 miles on it. I haven't own this car for long (less than a month). I bought it pretty cheap to do some grocery shopping with. I have no plans to drive it more than 10 miles in a trip. I have a bicycle with a trailer, but there are days in the winter when the weather says, "No" to bicycling. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced at a shop when it wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. They said the fuel pressure was low, and it needed to be replaced. It was fine for a little while, but then it wouldn't start for the past three days now. No cranking at all. I can turn on the radio and roll windows up and down, though. I do remember seeing a Check Engine, Battery symbol sign, and a couple other lights off-hand. I'm at work right now.. so I'll have to go home to see if the Security light also was there, too.
Also! I did find an electrical line that did not go anywhere... not sure if that has anything to do with the fact that there is no window washer fluid tank (wipers do work).
After reading a little about other Buicks in the forum not cranking, I will definitely try the Security Light issue after I get home from work.
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My 1995 Buick Regal seems to loose gas pressure. Have had several repairs done, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and nothing seems to work. It seems that the repair shops are guessing at the problem. Sometimes it even stalls out completely but usually starts back up.
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I have a 1995 buick Lasbre and my engine light is on my car would cut off every once and a while. but when it does it cranks right back up like its a sortage in the wires people say it is an electrical problem i thought it was my crank sensor but my car has never had a problem cranking up it sounds wonderful when it cranks up so whats my problem....
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