95 Buick Riviera Supercharger .... when turn blinker on, car dies....or won't start at all. Have to try several times and wait for indicator lights on dash to come on and for the door/key alarm to sound before can turn over car. Sometimes have to turn steering wheel til wheels are straight. Son started hitting/shaking steering to get it to start. Ignition Control Module?
View 2 RepliesI have a 95 Buick Riviera. When you put the key in, the car won't start. Then, you take the key out, and it starts. Then the next time you go to start the car, it won't start.
View 2 RepliesMy car has been have overdrive problems for a long time while driving on the highway it will stay in overdrive as long as i keep my foot on gas pedal or brake or in cruise control as soon as i get on the highway. As soon as i go off cruise so does the overdrive and will not go back in till i shut the car off and start it right back up. It makes for a long trip. I had trany oil changed does not effect it at all.
View 5 RepliesWe have a lovely 1998 Buick Riviera with less than 140,000 miles. Normally, it runs great but in the last year, it has developed a neurosis. When we try to start it, 98% of the time, it starts immediately. Once in awhile, you can place the key in the ignition, "click" and nothing. It's as if the car were dead. Trying over and over is a waste of time. You have to wait about 5 minutes or so and WHAM! ... it starts right away. Then it will continue to start fine for days and have a relapse. I can usually tell that it is about to happen because there will be a tiny (fraction of a second) gap between the moment we turn the key and the response. It will do this 4-5 times and then "play dead". Wait 5 minutes and no problem. Then it will continue to run fine for days - even weeks.
View 3 RepliesMy car developed a problem where it would lose power intermittently while running. The power would come and go before the car eventually dies. Sometimes it starts momentarily and sometimes it takes much, much longer. I've replaced the fuel pump and the camshaft sensor but the problem persists. My last options may be the crank sensor or the ignition module. 95 Buick P.A. Ultra
View 2 RepliesI'm driving a 95 buick lesabre, good condition, clean, 130k miles on it. 2 months ago the car started stalling and then it died. Took it to a shop, replaced all original fuel pump and fuel lines. Repeat this about 3 more times, all in all, the fuel pump, fuel lines, map sensor, mass airflow sensor have been replaced. Yesterday, the same thing happened. Took it to a different mechanic, he says he drove it for two days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Is there anything specific in a 95 lesabre that could be causing this? It drives fine for a while, and then out of nowhere it starts to stall, then the car dies and check engine light comes on. Gas is kept above half a tank due to winter conditions and the fact that it's an old car.
View 8 Replies1992 buick riviera 3.8L
So working on the steering column I had to remove the lock plate. Everything went well with my repair, I have the turn signal switch installed but I can not for the life of me get the lock plate spring pushed down far enough to slip in that little ring. I believe the part I am having trouble with is the top bearing inner race. Here is a link to how this looks exactly on my car.
[URL] ......
AS soon as i took off the spring that pushes the lock plate I noticed this race was just loosely sitting and the steering column just wobbles around. What am I doing wrong?
I did this in this order. I just moved the top bearing inner race as far back as it will go (it still just wobbles around with the steering column). then I put the spring in so that it touches the race. finally I place in the lock plate and compress it with the lock plate tool. However it simply will not compress enough for me to slip in the ring and lock it in place. Am i doing something wrong ? Is there some part of the bearing that should go in before this race?
The picture with the red background is how I am inserting these parts. The spring sits on this race but I cant compress it enough. Like i cant get it aligned properly or something.
Buick Riviera 1998 Supercharger
Oil LEVEL light comes on and car shuts off. Take note...NOT oil pressure light- which is the one that looks like a genie lamp. It says OIL LEVEL. This trips up every mechanic I have spoken to.
Doesn't stall (like sputter and die) just shuts off like a safety switch has been tripped or something. But it is an older car 1998 Buick Riviera Supercharger. You wouldn't think it would have that safety feature but maybe. You can start car but if I put it in reverse or even when I am driving the car oil LEVEL light will come on and car will shut off. Only happens when we get to normal operating temp.
So here is what I did. First, changed oil and filter just to be sure there was no odd clog and it was due anyway. Still had the same symptoms.
Next, I discovered that we have a separate supercharger oil reservoir. No mechanic that I spoke to knew this. I changed the oil in the reservoir because the level was low and I am sure that it has never been changed. Didn't work.
Next, I changed the oil PRESSURE sensor because even though I know it says oil level I figure it has to do with a misread on pressure. Didn't work.
Next I disconnected the wires going to the oil level sensor to test and see if it is a funky level sensor. Plus I didn't feel like changing the oil again in order to change the sensor. Didn't work.
Next. I changed the oil level sensor. Still...a no go. Drive for a bit and get up to normal operating temp and oil LEVEL light comes on and car shuts off.
Note: there is no sound. No sputtering or clanking or anything.
This 97 Buick will turn over and the engine will catch but then dies. It doesn't do this all the time. Also, the anti theft light comes on during this starting problem.
View 3 RepliesTurn signal lights not working on a 1995 Buick Regal. I have replaced fuse & flasher but still didn't solve problem.
View 4 Replies1995 Buick Regal, 128k miles, 3.8L V-6.Problem: When running errands around town, car will temporarily not start after 3rd or 4th stop. Vehicle cranks, has spark, has fuel pressure at fuel manifold. No codes on computer (Wish it was a '96). Car will start normally after cooling off (generally takes at least 45 minutes). No problem driving to work, parking all day, driving home. Have not tried long distance driving since problem arose, due to concern about being stuck for awhile far from home. Have determined at EGR valve is NOT a part of problem.
Sample situation: Drove 5 miles to town. Shopped for 15 minutes. Drove 2 miles further with 5 minute stop. Drove another 2 miles with 5 minute stop. Drove 1 more mile and stopped for 30-40 minutes. Car would not start. Cranks strongly, has spark and fuel pressure (don't know if fuel getting to injectors). Still would not start 30 minutes later. Left car for several hours. Started promptly and ran normally on return. Weather conditions - 90 F, low humidity. Problem has been occurring for several months. No computer codes to dive guidance.
I have a 1997 LeSabre with 180000 miles. I can drive the car for 4-5 miles before it stalls and then dies. the car will start to idle fast, then bottom out a couple of times before it dies. It also makes a horrible noise under the hood and sounds like the rods are all clanging together. Once it dies, it will not restart until it has sat there for 30-40 minutes. After sitting for some time, it will crank right up and then repeat the process again. My oil pressure is off the chart high and it stays there all the time. Does this have something to do with the problem of is that another problem all together? What is causing my car to die like this and how do i fix it?
View 5 RepliesCurrently I have a 1998 Buick Century Custom having turn signal issues.
The front left blinker is not blinking. Understandably, with this malfunction, the rear left blinker blinks rapidly when the turn signal switch is in the left turn signal position. However, when I put the hazard lights on, BOTH rear blinkers blink normally as does the front right blinker.
When the headlights are on, the amber-colored blinker bulb remains lit (left front). The right side front and rear blinkers work great.
I have checked the fuses, replaced the bulb and cleaned the socket of the front left blinker and still have no results. While my next guess would be that the flasher unit is the problem, I don't believe the rear, or front right blinkers would blink if that was the problem.
The car (97 Buick Le Sabre with 3800) ran fine and started fine until one day last week it did not turn over. After about 10 minutes it was tried again and this time it did start. It was used regularly with no issues for the next few days. Then one morning it didn't start (or turn over) and hasn't really been successfully started since. The battery is good and cable connections too. So my mechanic figured it was probably the starter. Since I had this weekend free, me and my friend replaced the starter. But it still did not start. We then turned the ignition to run and crossed the solenoid terminals with a metal tool and then the engine turned over and ran for a brief period (around 5 to 10 seconds) but then killed.
This procedure was duplicated a few times. So we figure it wasn't the starter, the battery, or most of the larger cable connections. The tension wheel had failed on it in the recent past so we wonder if when the belt blew out if it had hit and weakened a wire somewhere that has now failed but difficult to locate. We also wonder if the car's security system maybe failed and it thinks the car has been stolen. This might explain why it won't start or stay running when ignition is circumvented. Note: the panic button on the key fob works properly. All of the fuses were checked and none were found to be blown out. What the root cause of this problem might be and how to repair it?
2001 Buick regal started and ran left town for 10 days came back cranks but wont start I don't here fuel pump engage when I turn on ignition...
View 1 RepliesMy (mom's) Hundai will not start. It tries to turn over but never makes it. We don't smell gas, not flooded, might be the fuel pump. The code sensor device will not give a code to indicate a specific problem.
In the past, the car will give a static shock every time you get out and push door closed. Very difficult to start and gas must be pumped to start after gassing up. Also, a bell (ding sound) rings at random even if the car is driving. What to look at next?
Car had been running fine and all the sudden turn the key and get nothing. Dash lights come on and there's a click in glove box but nothing from starter. I have 0V at ignition post on solenoid with key in start position. I can short the 12V post and ignition post with screwdriver on solenoid and starter and engine crank as normal but car won't start. Further checking I have 0V key off at ignition module, 12V with key on. A connector outside firewall between ignition switch and transmission neutral safety switch. I took this apart, it was a 7 pin with 2 of 7 blank. The red wire I had 0V key off, 12V key on.
Then I dug into the steering column area. 12" or so down from the key there is a connector with a rod coming from the key area down into it. I assume this to be the ignition switch. The rod is supposed to move and is attached to a plunger that pushes into the connector. I assume this rod is attached to the key. When I turn the key the rod never moves. So I thought ok clamp some pliers on the rod and push it into the connector manually, it should make connection and start the car. When this had no results I am now at a loss as to where to go next. Further thought, how did I get the 12V readings in several locations with key on if ignition switch appears to be faulty. I'm not sure if it's faulty or not, things don't add up. I didn't dig into the steering column where the key is yet because I will have to remove airbag and steering wheel to do so.
my 1995 tbird just sat for a year i replaced the battery but when trying it it clicked it actually clunked i replaced the starter put a jump on it still clunked when trying to turn it the surpentine belt did move inches at a time what else can i try?
View 7 RepliesI have cleaned the fuel injectors, put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires. What else I can do. The only time it starts easily is when it's very hot. If I leave it off for just 5 minutes, it will start up quickly. And a few times, when it is dead cold it will start on the first turn. All other times I have to crank it for what seems like minutes. I'm killing batteries and starters on a regular basis.
View 2 RepliesI also have a problem with my left blinker and my break lights. My right blinker works just fine, but my left blinker and break lights will not come on unless I pull the blinker switch forward a bit- as if I'm going to turn my brights on.
View 14 RepliesNow i want to know how to change the intensity of DRL when turn on the blinkers. Because when you are using the DRL and turn on the blinker the intensity of DRL drops down , and i want to control that intensity.
I already know how to change the intensity in the DRL , but i don't when turn on the blinker.