Repair - Used :: 1999 Mazda Idle High While Driving
Jul 9, 2014
I have a 99' Mazda B2500 5 speed manual transmission that will idle high sometimes while Im driving, that is in motion coating or in gear. It idles high enough it will cause the truck to speed up or maintain speed when i let off the gas in gear, and when i put it in neutral it will either stay at the rpm it was running at or it will speed up to 2500 - 3000 rpms until i slow to almost a complete stop, then it magically goes away. It will only stop the high idle when i come to a complete stop, even though it will go away just before the truck comes to a stop, if i touch the gas or put it in gear for a California roll it will kick back up to 2500 rpm and keep it up. It does not do this all the time. some times i go months without it happening. Sometimes it goes away in a few minutes and some time it will do it all day on a 18 hour ride. It is totally up to change whether or not its going to act up. Iv had it like this for year and cannot find a pattern to it at all. The amount of gas it gets at high idle speed is not much and is only noticeable on the highway when I go to coast or change gears, in town I notice it every time i come to a stop.
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Parts came from Riffraft Diesel Performance. A set of "o" rings for the injectors. High flow CVD fittings for the fuel lines. Turbo rebuild kit. (its got 210,000+ miles) Anti Surge compressor wheel.(ok its not part of the oil problem)
Photos to come. I will take during the rebuild.
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I recently had $1600+ of work done on my 2005 Mazda 3 (L4 2.0L). R&R Head Gasket and Thermostat and Coolant Temperature sensor replaced. Since then it's been idling roughly. This was NOT occurring prior to the work. Mechanic says it needs a couple of weeks to "sync"? Does this makes sense? I'm wondering if they did something wrong to cause the problem.
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Replaced the idle air solenoid and the car still vibrates in drive when at the light, etc.. Engine mounts were replaced though I am sure that isn't relevant. Anything I can look for?
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The idle speed is higher than normal, about 800-900 RPM. Whenever I stop for the traffic light, the engine will behave as if someone is pressing the gas pedal intermittently. It has new spark plug wires and coil.
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I have a 2000 sc2 saturn DOHC 1.9 engine with just under 200k miles.
My problem is this, I recently purchased this car and was told it is in desperate need of a tune-up, being broke I decided to replace the cheapest parts first. I started with spark plugs, they are all gaped at 0.40 and all are new and the right ones for the car, ever since i changed the spark plugs the car has been idling rough (when i start it rpms go to 2500+ for about 10 seconds and drop to about 800-1100, when i shift into any gear it revs the rpms back up and they drop gradually). My other problems are that my car sounds like it is souped up and sounds like a rice rocket, when i put it in drive it starts to accelerate on its own and has reached around 40 mph at a gradual increase.
My uncle who was a mechanic said it could be the IAC, EGR or throttle position sensor, or cadilityc converter i replaced the IAC and it don't really seem to have worked much.
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The equipment:1995 Buick Regal Custom 3.8
I noticed a year ago that my car would randomly stall out coming into work after a 20-25 minute drive. It then started to idle really high, very rarely. So i cleaned the throtle body, new air filter, new fuel filter, sparks, and wires. This is about where my expertise ends.
Its seemed better, however, it would act up now and again (stall) but I was fine with it.
Recently I have noticed that the car idles really high 1.5 in drive (compared to 900) and 2k in park after I have drove for 20-25 mins. So I put the computer to the car and all I have is transmission error codes which I have had since I owned the car at 80,000 miles and I am now to 160,000 miles. This car has been pretty good to me because it starts, goes forward, and backwards! What else can you really ask for. A better idle maybe?
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I have a 99 Mazda b3000 v6 that has recently started to stall whenever in idle. Check engine light is on and the following codes popped up (P0176, P0135,P0141, and P0155). I'm sure one of these codes has to be related to the problem but I am clueless when it comes to troubleshooting. Also it started stalling after I filled up the tank. Not sure if that has anything to do with it, check engine light was already on before that.
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I have a 95 neon SOHC that drives with a very high Idle. Not all the time, but 85% of the time witch i find strange. This has been going on for the better part of a year and the car is almost undrivable. Its putting a hurting on my breaks for sure.
I had replaced the PCM 5 years ago. Replaced the timing belt 2 months ago. I have searched all around for vacuum leaks but am not able to find anything. I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it very well. I replaced the IAC.
The car continues to idle out of control as if the IAC is wide open. The only way to get the car to idle correctly is to cover the idle hole in the throttle body 90% up with my finger. The guy at Auto Zone said if its not IAC or vacuum hoses, then I should start replacing sensors. How do I diagnose this problem?
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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'97 Taurus GL Wagon 197k: Some of this stuff has been going on for some time now (several months ... maybe even a year).
1.) Driving Itself:
Car seems to drive itself on my way home from work which is a long, flat road in the 45-55 mph speed range. Once I get into this range, I can take my foot off the gas pedal and the car pretty much maintains speed until I get to an upgrade. I've even noticed times when I'm not pressing the pedal but the car is slightly speeding up to the point where I have to keep tapping the brake to keep from getting too close to the car in front of me.
2.) Stalling/High Idle:
Sometimes when I come to a less than smooth stop at a light - say, a yellow light that quickly turns red and I have to stop quicker than I'd want, the car will stall out. This has only happened a couple of times in the last 6 months, but it had never done this at all up to this point, so it's a new phenomena. Otherwise, the idle is usually at 600 rpm (except recently I've been seeing high idles of 2000 rpm every so often, which is really weird!!). Also, it seems like if I park the car on an incline, the engine will turn over many more times trying to "catch" and start - and the whole start-up sequence just feels weak - like it's not getting enough gas.
3.) Tach Bouncing:
This one's got me the most concerned because I think it's the most serious (and potentially the most costly to fix). I completely transfused the tranny fluid a few months ago as a possible solution, by the way, so the fluid (Dexron Mercon IV) is fresh. At about 1500 rpm on the tach, the tach sometimes starts bouncing up and down on the scale and I can feel a metallic engagement/disengagement cycle. If I get above or below this area on the tach, however, no problem. Also, taking off from a standstill -even though I accelerate very slowly and smoothly because I KNOW the tranny is "soft" and will 'slip and slap' if I don't - I'm recently starting to feel a very very brief grinding-like slippage feeling that does not hinder acceleration much at all, but feels very unsettling. This is a new feeling and it only happens every now and then (so far).
You're gonna say the tranny's on its way out, right?
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I've got a 2006 F150 FX4 with a 5.4L 3V
A couple of months ago, I got a random "amber wrench light" on the dash. After I shut the vehicle off, it would go away. Over the last month, it's been coming back on more frequently....pretty near every time I drive the truck. I'm also noticing a bit of a dead spot in the pedal at times....though it's never failed me completely.
After a quick Google search, I was led to believe it could be a throttle body issue. Before replacing the throttle body, it was suggested to remove and clean the throttle body itself....which I did.
I'm still getting the amber wrench light, but now I'm also getting a random high idle after driving. If I throw it in park, it will idle up to 2,000RPM. I initially assumed I may have created a vacuum leak of some sort, but when I shut the engine off and restart it (or even blip the key off and on again quick before the engine dies, it comes back to life and idles fine? This tells me that it isn't a vacuum issue.
The strangest part, is that it's not tripping any codes what so ever?
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2000 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.4l - The problem that I currently have is that the car will not idle smoothly, it bounces between 600 and 800 rpm. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and thought I checked the hoses. Just got done changing the upper and lover manifold seals, during which I replaced or cleaned what ever was suggested by the place I purchased my parts through. I am at a loss, I have begun to notice that there are small fluctuations on the highway when I am using the cruise control and am on flat land.
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Unless you manually hold throttle when cold jeep will stall. Once engine is warm all is fine. So what controls the high idle?
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I have a '99 Dakota 4 cylinder. Starts fine but as it warms up or if you gas it the idle stays high. The more you run it the higher it goes. Have replaced MAP senser, throttle position and air bypass with no effect.( map and high tps voltage only codes shown ) Vacuum problem?
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I have a 99 Ranger w/3.0. It idles about 1500 rpm cold,and 1200 warm. Here are the things that I have tried.
1.Checked ALL vacumn hoses/lines
2.Changed Air idle control sensor
3.Throttle position sensor
4.removed and completely cleaned throttle plate in throttle body.
5. removed top of intake manifold and checked for cracks and/or leaky gasket.
Nothing seems to change. Could it be a faulty ecm?
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I have a 99 tacoma with a 3.4 L automatic with 160,000 miles. For the past year my truck will idle rough and quit after revving high. After driving around for a few min its fine until I accelerate hard and get it up to about 4 to 5 thousand rpms. I recently changed the timing belt and accidentally got it about two teeth off. While it was like that, it didnt have much power and it was very loud, but it didnt have the problem. Once I fixed it and got it timed right it started having the problem again.
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So as I was parking my car and I accidentally stalled it. So anyway I return to the car 20 minutes later to leave and when I start it up I notice the engine is idling at 2000 rpm and is making a loud hissing noise from the drivers side on the engine (I think). When I rev the engine it is slow to come back down to the 2000 rpm idle. When I put the car in gear and drive it, it likes to stay at 2000 rpm.
The car will accelerate without me pushing the gas pedal until it reaches 2000 rpm. Also when I shut the engine off, it sputters and coughs, almost like a backfiring motorcycle but rhythmically slowing down until it finally stops (around 3 seconds or so from when I turn the key off). The check engine light is OFF and the car is still "driveable" (I got it home) and typically idles around 900 rpm I think..
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The transmission feels like its slipping while in drive. Oddly though, it shifts great using 1st to 2nd to Drive, then using an on / off switch to control 3rd to Overdrive/4th. Its automatic and I am just using the shifter to control shifting, because the car doesn't seem to downshift on its own either. It will stay in Overdrive/4th even at 35mph with the pedal to the floor, only sometimes downshifting after awhile. The car also hesitates slightly while driving at above 65mph on highway. It stops doing so on hills, and it has no issues at lower speeds, even at 5k rpms. Not sure what that is related to. I just bought it, and the transmission fluid is black, not sure if its from lack of maintenance. I assume the transmission needs a rebuild, but the more I know the better I won't be ripped off at a shop.
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I have a 99 f350 and I can't get my truck to kick up the idle when it's cold out. There have been mornings in the negatives and still nothing. I replaced my egr tube and cleaned the exhaust pressure sensor. My exhaust back pressure valve opens and shuts while driving at slow speeds but not while at idle, but I don't know if that's related. I replaced the oil temp sensor with a ford motorcraft one. And I plugged my intake air temperature sensor into a buddy's truck with the same motor and his truck still idled up no problem.
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1999 B3000 with a 3.0. The truck idles at 850rpms. When it starts it idles at around 1000 and runs very rough. When I disconnect the IAC the engine dies. The AC also has problems it blows cold at idle but at highway speeds after 7-8 minutes running the compressor kicks out. One can turn it off and it blows cold again after a few minutes.
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