First it was the gas pedal then the distributer cap and then what I thought was the starter so when there's no spark going to it it wants to start up just fine the starter hits the flywheel without it slipping then when it does get spark the starter is constantly slipping and doesn't want to hit the flywheel right.
View 19 RepliesI put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
View 15 RepliesMy gas pedal wont work at all on my 1975 chevy malibu it feels like something slipped off when I stepped on it this morning....
View 2 Replies. My "piece of junk" (as my husband refers to it) 2002 Chevy Venture broke down on me last year. It felt and sounded like a tire blew. There were no warning signs. It was very sudden. I had it towed to where I was buying it and they told me the motor was blown because I had let it run out of oil. I knew this wasn't the case (letting it run out of oil) and so I brought it home. My husband discovered the oil pump was not working but before I could afford to put one on to see if this fixed it, it was repo-ed as I had lost my job for no transportation. For about a month, the car lot intended to take the vehicle to auction and then sue me for the rest.
I was finally able to work out an arrangement with them where they held the car until I got my student loan money and paid for it. When I got it back, I expected it to start and to be able to try the oil pump. However, now it will only start when you short out the starter, runs for a second and dies. During these brief seconds, we discovered that the oil pump is pumping oil. I have a theory that while they intended to sell the vehicle, they started to fix it. But why will it only start if the starter is shorted out and then not continue to run? Will a new starter solve this? And could the motor completely blow up in a matter of minutes from the oil pump going out?
I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1956 Chevy Bel-Air that has been in my family since purchased new. It stalls when I put it in gear (reverse, to be precise). Any thoughts as to why? And, what can I do to repair it?
View 13 Replies2001 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3 L engine and a leaking head gasket that was getting worse (at 217,000 miles). Car has rusted body (upstate NY), so not going to spend too much for repairs. Decided to try one of those "magic elixors" in a bottle. Went for the Bars Leaks head gasket repair stuff - Followed directions, etc (put it into the top radiator tube, NOT the overflow bottle). The stuff had little strings of copper-looking stuff floating in it. It worked. After a little more loss of coolant, the coolant loss has finally stopped. Amazing that something like this really worked.
View 7 RepliesShop Manual says you need to remove the oil pan as part of the front cover gasket repair. Is that really true? Removing the oil pan on this car is a very complicated procedure. Want to make sure it's abosolutely necessary before continuing.
View 19 RepliesMy engine repair soon light came on. Went to repair shop and was told i had error code number 1870. I was told i had a problem in my transmission with my transmission going into overdrive. I had not seen any problems in that area.the car seems to run fine.repair was made replacing the tcc regulator valve assembly at a cost of 424 dollars.three days later the light came back on with the same code.went back and he checked the fluid level and reset the light. It came back on before the day was over. He told me he would call me back with further action.have not heard from him yet.your thoughts on this.i feel like i have been taken for a ride.i have a 1996 chevrolet s10 blazer with 217,000 miles on it. The transmission was rebuilt at 170,000 miles.the car has been well maintained and runs and looks great.
View 4 Replies2000 Chevy Monte Carlo 3.4l - The problem that I currently have is that the car will not idle smoothly, it bounces between 600 and 800 rpm. I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and thought I checked the hoses. Just got done changing the upper and lover manifold seals, during which I replaced or cleaned what ever was suggested by the place I purchased my parts through. I am at a loss, I have begun to notice that there are small fluctuations on the highway when I am using the cruise control and am on flat land.
View 16 RepliesI just bought a chevy cavalier z24 2.4 liter engine. Yesterday my coolant light kept going on and off at different times so I added coolant to the overflow reservoir as shown in the car's manual. Today the coolant light is on constantly and it was smoking under the hood. I stopped and there was a big puddle of coolant was under the car. The car is not overheating. Did I put too much coolant in it or could it be a problem with the radiator?
View 14 RepliesMy mini van after driving it say 20 miles, starts shifting kinda like its slipping every know and then, and check engine light comes on. Its ok until about that first 20 miles, before that its ok.
View 1 RepliesMy daughter drives my old 2000 Chevy Blazer with a reconditioned transmission I paid for in Aug 2010. The new (rebuilt) transmission is now slipping. Could this be as simple as a fuse (electrical signal issue) or not having enough transmission fluid?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 z28 Camaro, and I'm having problems with it slipping at high speed. and I noticed today that fluid is leaking and the car loses power as it warms up. it runs great starts right up, just having problems with the tranny. What may be going on, I do check the fluid and fill it when it needs it. and it runs great until I need to get up to around 50mph.
View 1 RepliesI finally reinstalled my engine and transmission with a new clutch in my 1975 fiat spider. I've managed to get it started and idling nicely, but when I put it in gear, as soon as I begin to let the clutch out, it stalls. It's as though it triggers a kill switch.
Not sure if it has something to do with the clutch safety switch...? I tried jumping it in case the switch is bad, but that wasn't it. Maybe a vacuum leak/Though I would think a vac leak wouldn't let it idle and rev nicely which it does.
On my newly purchased 2003 chevy impala i believe my starter is going out. Outside of turning the key and nothing happens how does a mechanic test or verify its the starter?
View 10 Replies2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
We own a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer, 8 cyl, 150K miles. Since July 11, the transmission has been slipping into neutral, usually when slowing down. This happens anywhere, and usually in slow (so far) traffic. My husband has been able to get the car to drive either in D3, or has been able to get it back into Drive, and the car just drives off like nothing happened. This usually takes a few minutes of turning it off and on, and shifting gears. Today he drove it in AWD, and it was fine (so far). He normally drives it in 4WD. They have been unable to duplicate this problem and, because there aren't any codes, cannot tell us what's going on. Needless to say, I've had it.
View 11 RepliesMy 75 Corolla wagon (2T-C 4 speed, rear wheel drive) has developed a terrible shimmy that can be felt in the steering wheel and shifter, as well as the whole car. It only does this when I am in 3rd or 4th gear doing between 35-45 mph. Over the past few months this has gotten worse, and instead of being an intermittent thing (once a week or so) it happens every time I am in the 35-45 mph range.
View 8 RepliesStarter clicks wont crank...
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