how can you tell if your vapor recovery system is faulty? I cannot fill my gas tank unless I very slowly put gas in. It takes forever to even put in a few gallons. I think the vent is plugged or I overfilled the tank and got gas in the canister.
View 3 RepliesI keep getting this code even after fixing hoses with leaks. I am guilty of over filling my gas tank all the time can this have damaged the vapor canister on my 2001 dodge caravan....
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 VW Golf with 140,000 miles. Last week took it to the shop to have a wheel bearing replaced. Mechanic also replaced the wheel hub. When I left the shop I discovered a new problem that had not previously been there. Now the Anti-lock brakes are kicking in at the very end of a soft stop on smooth, dry roads and even in my garage. This happens about 20% of the time, but never during a hard stop. I took it back to the shop on Monday and mechanic could not find anything and was perplexed. The question is whether the ABS sensor could have been damaged during repairs and is the car safe to drive?
View 14 RepliesSo my dog was riding in the back seat of my 2011 SD with covers when he suddenly went nuts over seeing a bunch of Prong Horn running along the road and jumping a fence. It was pretty cool to see, but he scratched the heck out of the arm rests.
How the scratched dark grey color can be repaired? Everything about the truck has remained pretty pristine inside and out, but this is really bothering me and I can find no information.
I'd even consider recovering all 4 with some sort of kit, if available like they have for some dashes and interiors.
Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
View 13 Replies2014 TDI Passat with 66k miles. No unusual problems until this point. Three days ago I began to notice a strong ammonia odor coming through the ac vents. Its become significantly worse over the last 24 hours. The vaporized ammonia is sufficiently concentrated to cause eye and nasal irritation. It occurs rapidly, within 30 seconds of turning on the recirc mode. Turning off the recirc mode can clear the cabin quite fast as well. There is no odor or leak perceptible in the engine compartment, under the car, or in the trunk space.
No check engine warning or alarm that there is a problem with the DEF system. DEF fluid container was last topped off about 5k miles ago. Clearly, this is a significant failure of the emission system. I've done a cursory search but have not seen this exact problem written up before. Wondering why a car would be designed with the HVAC close to the to the exhaust/emissions system that it could capture gasses intended for the exhaust system? Its not so much the ammonia I/m worried about as the odorless and toxic Nox gasses the emission system should be reducing. getting dropped off at the dealer tomorrow.
I am done with this swap (I hope) changed out the 302 in my 81 van for a 351. The only smog spaghetti I am keeping is the fuel vapor canister but I am unsure what the #1 line in the photo is for I have the manual but doesn't state what it does my research suggests its a fuel vapor return line from the carb bowl back to the canister ...... I now have an edlebrock carb obviously w/o this port so my question is
#1 where would you reconnect this "whatever it is" line on carb or manifold
#2 I am going to install that #3 fitting in photo on the edlebrock manifold at the same location & extend #2 hose to it. I am thinking that's ok...
My husband just bought a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4. On the way home from work the recovery tank cap kept popping off. When he got home the radiator was cool to the touch, hoses were warm. He removed the radiator cap and no coolant was showing but the over flow tank was full. I looked in the recovery tank and it looked brown which to me indicates a head or head gasket problem. I checked the oil and it was clean and seemed to be slightly overfilled.
View 10 RepliesThe engine oil is being sucked into the cooling system and filling up the coolant recovery tank. It's a peanut butter mess. The radiator is loaded also and I can't what the passages in the block look like. Some say its a head gasket but why would crank case be empty. I would think there would be coolant mixed with oil in the crankcase. I think its a engine porous issue. The vehicle was bought used with 133k miles and a 3 month warranty.
View 11 RepliesMy friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
I'd like to understand the rate of braking that results in the maximum recovery of energy into the battery. I try to brake so that the needle goes down almost to the bottom of the 'charge' region, but not so strongly that the needle completely bottoms out. I figure that if the needle bottoms out completely, I am using the friction brakes. Is that the correct way to use the brakes? What technique to achieve 40mpg use?
View 14 RepliesAfter sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
View 4 RepliesUnknowingly bought a salvaged 2007 Honda Fit about a year ago that has run fine but recently begun to emit a vapor smell of what my mechanic ids as benzene. His cleaning did not work and a reputable detail outfit passed on the problem, saying if a cleaning didn't do it their methods won't either. The scent is not strong - being a geezer I can't even register it. But it's my son's car and he has a 1-year old who I don't think needs to be inhaling it. Cleaner spray by rebuilders? A fuel system problem?
View 19 RepliesThe fuel filler vent line rotted off so I had the gas tank and fuel pump replaced in September. Drove the car for 2 months without a problem until last week.The car lost power then stalled. I smelled gas and found that there was a large amount of gas pouring out of the bottom of the vapor canister.I bought a new one (very expensive for a plastic can) and put it on. Drove the car a couple days and then it happened again. Someone told me not to over fill the tank but I never did. In fact, this doesn't happen right after I get gas. Its a couple days after I get gas that it happens. I had two different auto mechanics look at it and neither one of them could figure it out.
View 3 RepliesI recently went on a road trip and at one point white steam started coming out of my AC vents. i pulled over on the side of the road to take a look under the hood and everything was fine. no burnt smell or anything. i was driving through some high temps (around 100) and it was a bit humid. i figured it might have been because of humidity, but I've never seen that before. now a few days later I'm back in arizona and this morning i saw the steam coming out again, but very faintly. Its also very humid right now. The AC works fine, blows cold air like it should.
View 7 RepliesMy Suburu Forester(2002) needs registering in DE and all lights must be off. I gave up trying to get the ignition light off 2 years ago, when it went off in time for registration and came back on as I drove home.
The AutoZone gave me a diagnosis of P1443, P0442, P0139, and P0483.
Suggested parts says : Vapor Canister.
I have a 1998 Honda Accord, automatic with 179,000 miles. The malfunction indicator light came on so I had the car smoked and found that it needed a purge valve. I replaced the purge valve and smoked the car again which indicated the car still has a vapor leak and the malfunction light stayed on. The only place visible smoke is coming from is from the fuel filler neck (place where fuel or gas is put into the car) when the gas cap is off. Where the leak may be? My car is also getting horrible gas mileage. I was going to replace the fuel filter but I heard it was in the gas tank, is this right and is it replaceable? Would replacing the gas cap work for either the vapor leak or gas mileage?
View 8 Replies Son was unable to fill his car's gas tank, 2002 Elantra (but happens to all cars sometimes).
The vapor lock on the pump kept shutting the gas flow off.
This was caused by the tanks vapor exhaust being unable to exit while filling, so the only place to go was back up through the gas fill hole.
The charcoal filter had sprung a leak so the zillions of tiny little charcoal pellets pour from the filter into the rubber hose clogging it.
The Filter is $150 at Hyundai. Not available at AutoZone or OReilys.
Very simple to replace a couple bolts a few hose clamps.
Strange problem, thats no one at work had encoutnered before. A few Hyundai mechanics had heard of it and worked it before.
Also could be Purge Valve or Vent Valve solenoids...search EAP system too if your having this issue of not being able to fill your tank with gas, without 500000 vapor locks shutting the pump off!
Recently, my 1988 Isuzu Trooper began dying at high elevations (above 7,500 feet). I have had the car for ~7years and have never had this problem. That is, in the past, i've been able to drive it up to 9,300 feet with no problem. Could this be vapor lock? If so, why would vapor lock all of sudden start happening? If not vapor lock, what could it be?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Excursion 6.8L V10. It runs like a champ, gets really good mileage for what it is, but there a strong fuel vapor smell coming from the charcoal vapor canister under the hood. You can smell it outside the truck and the smell gets pulled in through the vents - have to use Max AC recirc.
After checking and testing, I can confirm that the fuel vapor smell is coming from the charcoal canister and not anywhere else on the engine. The smell gets worse as the tank drains: Full Tank - Almost No Smell; Half Tank - Strong Smell; 1/4 Tank - Very Strong Smell.
Here is all that we have tried.-Replaced Fuel Cap (Genuine Ford)-Visually inspected the Evap Lines - Look Good-Visually inspected Fuel Line and Fuel Filter - Look Good-Checked the Fuel System for Leaks - None-Pressure Tested the Fuel System - No Leaks-Ran Multiple Smoke Tests on Evap System - No Leaks-Checked the Computer for Codes - No Codes-Replaced the Charcoal Vapor Canister (Genuine Ford)
We are totally stumped. I searched all the forums and can find issues with plugs, fuel injector o-rings, and leaks, but this has all be checked.
I have a 1996 Suzuki Swift. My defroster stopped working several weeks ago.
If I have the defroster and heater on at the same time, white vapor smoke comes from my vents. My heater works fine when I choose the vent option for it to blow directly on me but I can see and smell light blue smoke if I change the vent option to blow on my feet.
In addition a thin white film covers my windows while I'm driving whether I have the heater on or not (and there's a slight oil smell in the car if the heater is on - I do have an oil leak). The thin white film can be wiped from the windows easily at first but becomes more difficult to wipe after 30 minutes or so of driving. Once I turn the car off, the film disappears within 6-8 hours.