Repair :: Sudden White Exhaust With Sickening Smell?
Jul 15, 2014
Bought a used vehicle, 2 and 1/2 weeks later it is suddenly putting out white exhaust for a few minutes after starting up. The exhaust now smells sickening (to me) at all times, and must keep the windows up; I've noticed sneering from others in line at the drive through. I read online that this could be a gasket leak. I checked the oil and it looked clean, so I drove it back to the dealership to have them look at it. They called today to say that "checked the fluid levels" and that there is no evidence of a "consumption issue" at the moment, and suggested I drive it for a while longer and then have them check it again. It came with a 3 month / 4000 mile warranty, and I drive so little 3 months will pass by sooner.
What should I be considering?
Take it to a trusted mechanic and get their separate diagnostic?
I read that antifreeze mixing in the combustion produces white / sweet smelling exhaust... I suppose the exhaust has a sweet component to it.
I purchase my gasoline from the same name brand station in my family's other two cars and neither have problems.
Assuming worst case all around, and it is leaking antifreeze into the combustion chamber... could the dealership be using any sort of laced antifreeze to prevent some drastic breakdown within the 3 month warranty period?
Suppose it runs as is for a year, and then breaks down, if it is leaking antifreeze into the combustion chamber... need a new engine?
I saw a reference somewhere that, if the seal is leaking, a compression test could be done to see how bad... can any shop do this? or is this a specialty work?
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I was passed the other day by a newer (square mirrors) nice-looking Super Duty that was slightly spewing white exhaust smoke. As a life long truck driver, I know a few diesel smells (and I kinda like some ). But, this was so pungent that it was irritating my eyes inside my own cab.
It was so irritating and nasty smelling, that I had to slow down (to let him gain some ground) and open my windows to clear out my truck. So that I may be better informed, what could've caused this?
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2000 Nissan Sentra with 105,000 miles. Runs great. All scheduled maintenance from the beginning. Grandma owned until I got a hold of it 2 years ago.
The beginning...
The car has had a slight exhaust-type smell for about a month. I thought it was either an exhaust leak or a small oil leak. I overlooked this as it was running great and I only drive to and from work at a total of 5 miles/day. I was going to be driving it about 20 miles so I figured I should just double check the oil.
Before my drive, I checked the oil and the dipstick said I had absolutely no oil. Backstory: I got my oil changed about 2 months ago and they broke the dipstick. They replaced it with a new one. I drove a few blocks to get oil. I purchased 2 quarts filled it up. I drove off and about a half a block later it started smoking bad. White smoke canvassing the whole street.
I turned around and went back to the auto parts store. I had a guy come out and look at it and he was baffled. The only thing he though was that it had run completely dry and it need more oil. We put 2 more quarts of oil in it (4 now) and it did not register at all on the dip-stick. A small oil leak was discovered coming from the head gasket (that was the smell). Also, there was no milkiness under the oil cap indicating
I decided to drive it back to work to leave it overnight. It smoked like hell and I made it about 4 blocks before it died. I pushed it the rest of the way and it stayed overnight.
The next day, I spoke to a mechanic friend. The only thing he could think of was that the dipstick was not the right size and it wasn’t reading any oil. The oil I put in was extra and the car was burning it off. He suggested I drain out all the oil and put 4 quarts in.
I drained all the oil but only 4 quarts came out. I added 3 quarts of oil and checked it again. Not it was reading about 10 times more oil than what I was supposed to have.
My mechanic friend said to start it up and the oil level should go down. I did start it up and the oil level did go down but it was reading about 5 times more oil than it should have. That is where I am at at this point. Hopefully it isn't a blown head gasket or piston.
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My car was running rough, with white smoke and strong gas smell coming from exhaust. It died out on me a few times as if it was not getting enough acceleration. Well, I coded it and said misfire cylinder 3 and 4. I also tried to shut down 3 and 4, but did not shut down. I switched 3 and 4 with 1 and 2, still did not shut down cylinders 3 and 4. Engine coils are good, engine module was tested and passed twice. Ok, fuel injectors 3 and 4 were leaky and I changed them out. New spark plugs and boots. New oil and filter..(There was gas in my oil and oil in my air filter.) With the new parts....my car sounds soooo much better!!! still a little rough, does not bog down, but it still has the strong gas smell and white smoke from exhaust..(gas smell soo bad I had to open all doors to the garage!!) What else could be wrong?!?! I'm getting frustrated!! It also has NOT ever over heated, does not run high.
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I have a 2009 lexus es 350. Its my baby since new. I have around 75,000 miles on it. Recently when I start the vehicle I noticed a heavier than usual exhaust smell, with some very very light white exhaust. The car seems to drive fine in every way.
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I have a 2003 F150 with a 4.6. Exhaust is pouring out white smoke with a sweet smell. I have replaced upper and lower intake gaskets. Compression test on all cylinders are at 145. Confused and don't know where to go from here.
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My 2003 F150, 5.4L has been having some rough idle/misfires issues both at idle and under load.
I have fixed one big vacuum leak, replaced the PCV valve, new sparkplugs, seafoam and heet in the gas, replaced fuel filter, tested the fuel injector resistance. Coolant levels have not changed. The truck burns about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so. The white exhaust is heavier than condensation, but it comes and goes. The rough idling comes and goes as well, and it usually happens under load and the CEL flashes.
The codes I get are random cylinders, po303, po308, po171, po174 were the most recent but there have been other cylinders as well. I clear the codes after each attempt to fix it and they come back different.
I notice that there is a small exhaust leak that drips water just behind the engine, and when I shut down the truck a lot of water will pour out of an area just behind the cab on the passenger side as well as out of the bottom of the muffler (small hole, looks drilled).
Usually the rough idle occurs after filling up the tank, but from different stations so I do not think it would be watery gas. I use Heet every fill up as well. Also, there is a sulfur smell after the rough idling occurs (catalytic converter?).
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Today I drove to dinner in my 2012 6.7 with no problems then on the way home my brother said he noticed my truck was white smoking quite a bit and he said there was a very strong exhaust smell coming from my truck ( he was in his car behind me) I ran a diagnostic test and what came up was code P0401 (I believe that's right). Need to figure out what is going on with my truck before I take it to the mechanics and get charged up. The truck still has DPFs in it just has a DPF back exhaust and has a AFE cold air intake running on a stock tune. However I do have the DPF deletes and EGR delete sitting in my garage just haven't gotten them on the truck yet.
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So I went 30k over the recommended 3 k oil change. Anyway I got a synthetic change, and while I was leaving I noticed white smoke coming out of the tail pipe, it quickly subsided so I didn't go back to the shop. Anyway throughout the week it had been coming out when i start it up, then stopping short after,now today a week later it is really bad pouring out of the exhaust and even coming through my vents this most recent drive! what could of caused this??? They filled my windshield wiper container up, and i know that either had a leak or is broken because it stopped working a few months ago, could that be causing it?? I don't want to drive it if it is not safe and could damage the engine.
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Last time I took my car for service at 26K miles, I picked it up asked if all is well. "Yes all is well", and I am glad I can continue my weekend. I get in it, drive it out and upon reaching 40mph a clunking noise comes from the front tire. I mean to bring it back but eventually the noise is less. I assume something was wrong. Before I know it, it is 31K miles and i need to bring it back to service. I mention the front left tire. Turns out all 4 tires are cupped. They recomend changing the tires. I what to see if i can afford it and to see the tires myself. There is some shape alteration.
I take it easy because i think...if the tires are not great, i should be careful. Both the husband and I go to a shop, drink coffee, I think i can change the tires in a few days. On my way home, as I am trying to merge into traffic and get up to speed one huge puff of white smoke comes out, lights pop up (OBD blinking and solid slip light). My husband was right behind me with his Tundra. We are only a couple of miles away from the dealership and decide to bring it back...slowly nothing above 30mph. Service dept is closed and I have left it overnight.
Both of us agree...this should not be happening...specially when I have always serviced it regularly at the dealership and have always requested the recommended service.
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I have a 87 F250 with a 302. Every time I drive it I smell like exhaust. Doesn't matter how short or long the trip, but the longer the trip the stronger the smell when you get out. I found 1 loose manifold bolt and tightend it, but no difference.
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The truck in question is a 93 F-150 X/cab 4x4, has 5.0 5spd. So yesterday i replaced my exhaust with pre made magnaflow "y" pipe/cat with a flow master 44 then new pipe all the way out. When i start the truck up this morning to let it warm up a little it started to give off a funny smell almost like brakes/electric burning smell. I was wondering if this is common for new pipes to burn off any oils that may have collected on them from the factory. I look under the truck and nothing is touching the exhaust, but the shiny new pipe is starting to change colors. So do you think it will go away in a short time? I have to an appointment about 30 miles away on the freeway think this will burn off?. BTW there was no smell prior to the exhaust change.
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2000 excursion, 4X4, V10
A few days after the job was completed I noticed that the top stud on the driver's side closest to the firewall has signs of oil leaking from inside the hole. This is a hole that I had to drill and insert an 8mm Heli-coil. I was very careful on the depth of the hole I drilled. I tried removing the bolt and placing JB Weld high temperature epoxy into the hole and reinstalled the bolt. I waited over 24 hours for the epoxy to cure and then I checked for leaks. The leak re-appeared but has slowed down quite a bit. I have a USB endoscope that I will be using to inspect the inside of the hole to see if I can see where the leak is actually coming from. I am in no position to replace the head but I will do whatever it takes to get the truck back into service.
After 7 days in my garage, I finally removed/replaced all 20 manifold studs. I had to cut off all of the nuts to remove the manifolds. I was able to remove 17 out of 20 studs by using a 6 inch pipe wrench and a lot of coaxing. 3 of the studs were already snapped off inside the head. I drilled out two and was able to get them tapped for a Heli-coil. The third stud I broke a 1/8" cobalt drill bit inside and it took 4 days to get enough of the hole drilled out to get a Heli-coil inserted.
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The exhaust leak is not too horrible, but, enough that I need to address it soon. Only on the driver's side; (today).
I'm planning on having a lot of PB blaster on hand, torch, broken stud removers, screw/stud extractors (easy outs), ...a hammer. Maybe a few cold Budweisers
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My 1998 Ford Expedition XLT with V8 5.4L engine has been having issues for about six months. It first started off with a strong gasoline and burnt rubber smell coming from the front of the car within a few minutes of starting the engine. Later, the whole car began vibrating and would intensely shudder every once in a while when idling. The car doesn't accelerate well from a standstill. The RPM will climb up to 3000-4000 while going from 0 MPH to 10 MPH, then it will lurch forward a bit and it pick up a little more speed. It struggles again around 15 MPH until it hit 20 MPH when it will lurch again and pick up normal acceleration. Once I try to go 40 MPH or more, the whole will start shuddering loudly and still struggles with maintaining speed. I have not attempted to drive over 50 MPH.
The best acceleration I can get is when I take 30-45 seconds to slowly press the gas pedal and work my way up to the speed I want.I was also following my father in another car while he drove the Expedition and on the highway, I saw sparks come out from the back of the Expedition's undercarriage when it climbed up an overpass. When driving over roads that aren't smooth, or when I accelerate, there is a sound from the back of the car like jangling chains or metal rods. It still makes the sound while the gas pedal isn't pressed or the gear is in neutral, so I think there is something, but have not seen anything underneath that could jangle around. While looking underneath, I saw that that some areas looked rusty, but not cracked. There is also a black piece under the engine that looked like it was made of plastic. It looked wet and oily and had a 2-3 inch opening in the center. I feel that there was supposed to be some sort of cover there.I now only drive it when it's unavoidable, usually once a week or less, and usually distances of 5 miles or less.I think the problem is with the use of fuel in the engine (fuel gauge fluctuates all the time, especially while driving on hills).
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Yesterday my 1995 Toyota Corolla (which runs well otherwise) started making the loudest rumbling exhaust sound I've ever heard whenever I stepped on the gas pedal. It also felt like it had trouble accelerating when I would try to get going after a stop. I took it to a mechanic right away, who says it needs a new catalytic converter and resonator pipe.
My boyfriend says this is a repair he could do. He has done some car repair and worked with a mechanic before, so I am considering trusting him on that, but I don't know what types of repairs he's done before and I know he has never worked on this model. What would you take into consideration whether or not it would be safe to attempt this repair at home?
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I felt a sudden heavy vibration in steering wheel on my gen 7 Celica. At first, I thought it was wheel balancing or uneven road surface (which is very bad in my area); but discovered later, burning smell from nearside (left) front wheel, all 5 lug nuts loose, whole wheel very hot, break binding. I had driven about 15 miles on 2 occasions when I experienced the vibration. But the vibration wasn't there all the time - only at certain speeds and road surface, which made me think it was just wheel balancing; (checked other wheels everything ok). Don’t know how long brake was binding for.
It seems the piston is not retracting under normal operation so causing the binding. As to the nuts coming loose; I think it is because of the heat from the wheel; as if you apply heat to tight nuts and bolts they would normally come loose - that is what mechanics seems to do when they find nuts and bolts are difficult to undo.
Piston hard to push back into cylinder when bleed nut is locked, but easy to go back (all the way) without any resistance when bleed nut is released. But when applied brake again and again pads stays on; but when I tap caliper with a piece of wood the pads releases. I’m puzzled...as caliper is free and slides as it should when checked against opposite wheel. The opposite wheel is ok - pads on that still 6mm thick; while pads on problem brake are only 3mm thick. I noticed there’s a block under the bonnet where brake pipes are connected to. What is it, and its purpose? Could it be that something is wrong with that hence the problem? The disc/rotor is not warped.
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Our family recently purchased a used BMW 528i (40K miles). Perhaps this is nothing, but I just wanted to make sure anyway.
Today, at around 2AM (maybe 50 degrees C), within minutes of starting the car, we drove into a McDonald's Drive Thru. While I was ordering and pressing on the brakes, I noticed continuous discharge of white smoke/vapor from the exhaust. For maybe a minute this continued. When I moved the car a little bit to get closer to the window, the smoke stopped. But when I stopped again to receive my order, I saw the white smoke/vapor again. My friends who were with me told me that it might just be water vapor, but the hypochondriac in me wants to make sure this isn't a blown head gasket or anything else I've read about in the internet. BTW When I drove away from the Drive Thru and continued driving, I stopped seeing the white smoke/vapor.
I'm as clueless you can get with cars. Do I need to be worried?
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I just purchased an '06 V10 a couple weeks ago. Today, I was about 11miles into my 15mile commute when I noticed A LOT of white smoke coming out of the back. The only time I'd seen smoke like that before was just before my old Ford Explorer caught fire. I immediately pulled over and took a look. White smoke (maybe steam?) was billowing out of the exhaust.
I say steam, because it didn't have the strong diesel smell I would've expected. I decided I couldn't sit there parked by the highway, so I got back in the car, checked warning lights and pulled out. Within 1/2 mile, it was gone. Nothing. No more problems the rest of the way. What this might have been? I have 1100 miles on the vehicle and this is the first time it's happened.
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I have white smoke pouring out of my exhaust in my 2001 Jetta1.8t , it happens at idle and then a lot at acceleration. The smoke is white and everyone and a while it has a hint of blue. I don't know what is wrong but what do yall think could be happeneing?
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I have a ton of white smoke coming from my exhaust pipe only after it ran a long time then is started back up ????
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