So I put one more extra quart or oil in accidently, and my car started being sluggish while trying to accelerate, no backfiring, just some gray smoke, then the smoke went away, and it stopped being sluggish, the boys at work are emptying out the oil right now, is this normal? Like, the car is working perfectly fine now...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2013 GT and my wife a 2011 sedan.
[URL] .....
I've looked it up and didn't find any reports of it happening to the GT. (I admit I didn't look too hard!)
It happened to my wife's 2011 sedan when accelerating onto the highway. Just as described in the "massive smoke" thread. I couldn't see the car following behind me, the smoke was that bad. No exaggerating!
-- no check engine light
-- no change in temp
-- car drove fine immediately afterward (we babied it till we got home)
-- oil level and colour OK
-- coolant OK (overflow between lines)
-- next day car felt fine during full-throttle 80-120 km/h acceleration.
-- mentioned it at dealership, with service adviser, service manager and mechanic all listening to the story. They were stumped but offered to look at it. Adviser suggested a "BG Products fuel induction" treatment, which I'm assuming is bogus. (Haven't had a chance to check into it)
My web searching suggests the car had a "carbon blowout" cuz my wife rarely drives on the highway. I've heard of this but always thought it was just a myth. I mean, seriously, have you ever actually seen a car throw up a James Bond smokescreen just cuz it hadn't been driven hard? I'll betcha five bucks that if I took my mom's babied 1997 Camry onto the highway and floored it, nothing would happen. So what's up with the Elantra?
Got a weird issue with my 2014.5 with 10k on it today, V6/2GRFE. On Wednesday I checked oil, it was at full drove it to Virginia to pick up a car and I followed it back 150 miles home, looked fine. Sat Thursday, let a family member drive it to work Friday, was fine. Saturday I drove it about 40 miles, was fine. Sunday I moved it around the driveway, was fine.
Today I started it and got a huge cloud of gray smoke out the back. Smoke continued while idling. Shut it off, got a family member to look at it (and make a video of it for future record). Basically on startup it lets out of a big puff of smoke (worse than my old V8 truck with leaky stem seals), then smokes lightly as it idles. Revved the engine and another puff came out, and the smoking did not stop. At this point I called up my dealer and wound up having it towed in as after about 3-5 minutes of running it was still smoking, as I'm under the impression burning synthetic oil is very bad for the emissions control system. Before leaving I let it cool back off, checked the oil and found it about halfway to 2/3rds between full and add on level ground. I did not let it warm all the way up to see what would happen over concern for damage.
Car is sitting at the dealer now, the manager said he'd try to see if they could get to it tomorrow (do have an appointment for Thursday); probably feel bad after the paint fiasco with the last one. Engine ran fine, seemed to be getting good fuel economy this tank, no CELS. I get that 1qt/1000 miles from break down/very minor burning is normal, but not this much smoke and nearly half a quart in 300 probably is not.
I'm also preparing for this to be difficult to pin down as first hand experience tells me oil burning can be a pain sometimes to troubleshoot, but my 91 Camry with 225k on it doesn't smoke like this, and typically valve stem seal seepage (which would be unacceptable though not serious) goes away quickly and presents much later in engine life. Not cold at all and had an oil burning smell to it for sure, but anyone have any normal expectations for what it could be? My 2012 2GR had 34k on it with zero oil use, burning or issues. If they say nothing my plan is to show them a video, and see what they say.
Pretty frustrated as I was liking this car more than my 2012; felt like it ran a little better, got a little better gas mileage, and road/drove a bit nicer too (probably the newer tires). Also had run into zero issues, whereas in the same span of ownership my 2012 already had one paint repair, a recall, and a brake light switch. Just had an oil change in June too at the dealer, verified the level was fine when I got it back, no leaks either.
My Elantra is at 14k miles and it has happened twice now that the pipe has released white/grayish smoke when accelerating abruptly (pretty much forcing the engine) on the highway above 60mph. I can see in my mirror that it leaves a pretty big smoke screen behind me.
I took it for an inspection after the first time it happened and the mechanic said it might have just been steam and that I should not worry about it. Since my 15k maintenance check is coming up, I will ask that they actually check on it.
I'm also curious to know if this could cause me to get a ticket? I'm thinking I could get pulled over for "imparing the vision of drivers behind me and making it dangerous for them", or something like that.
2 days ago, and again twice today, I have had an issue when I need to change lanes and speed up, but when I hit the gas pedal (not flooring it, but significant pressure) I have had the car jerk 3 times while the rpm needle goes up to 6. Then the rpm drops to 2, the acceleration finally kicks in, and a huge puff of grey smoke makes the cars behind me completely disappear.
I've read threads about the smoke with the acceleration, but no one mentioned the jerking and not wanting to actually accelerate at first.
There are 33,000 miles on my car.
I called the dealership and they said it only sounds like it's an issue that something in the engine needs to be cleaned out, and they want to charge me $200 if that's the case.
Should something need to be cleaned out at only 33,000 miles? (mind you I also just had the dealership tell me I didn't need my 30,000 mile tune up yet after doing an inspection).
I have a 04 6.0l and all of a sudden it started dumping white/grey smoke at idle and when I drive it it goes to black then let off throttle and back to grey/white I had an up pipe leak at the y pipe I thought it might be an issue with that but I just got done fixing it and the problem still there so iam guessing it's either a sticky injector or the ficm but it starts up nice and does not knock around egr delete is don with all the goodies arp studs ect also the injectors have only 30k so it's hard to believe but iam just stumped haven't tested ficm yet and my tuner doesn't pick up any codes
View 14 Replies A little background. I bought the 2008 F250 XL, 5.4L with 145,000 miles in December. It had a bad engine (dropped valve). I had the engine replaced with a remanufactured one (Performance Products) and started driving it this month. To date, I have put about 700 miles on it with an oil/filter change at 500.
So, here is the newest problem. Yesterday I finished changing my body mount bushings (with Daystar polyurethane ones) and went for a test drive. When I started the engine, a smoke cloud caught my eye. I took a closer look and noticed it was a gray smoke. I jumped out and ran around to smell the smoke - it had a gas smell. I did not test for smoke after my test drive.
So here is my question. It is obviously burning excess fuel on startup. That would mean that one or more injectors are leaking down after shutdown, correct? Testing this would be done by performing a leakdown test? How do I go about doing this WITHOUT any special equipment?
I bought a 03 6.0 dually a couple months ago. Got a good price on it. I use it very little, around town sometimes and used to pull a 7000 lb camper sometimes. My issue is, the other day I took off with the camper. Drove for maybe 5 miles then stopped and waited for traffic. When I took off again it was blowing gray smoke when I was accelerating and had little power. I was going about 30 mph for about a mile at about 3000 rpm up a very gradual hill. I was in the tow setting. When I got to the top of the hill it seemed to recover. I pulled over and shut it off then took off again without any issues.
The next day when leaving camping it was the same thing. Took off and saw gray smoke and had little power. After about 1-2 miles all was well again. Truck has 202k miles. Recently replaced oil cooler, egr cooler has been welded shut at both ends, turbo has been cleaned and all the filters and fluids are new. I have a Scan Guage 2 and monitored the ficm voltage and it maintained 47 to 47.5 volts. I know 2 injectors had been replaced when I purchased it as well and the egr valve by a dealer(they said it showed the cooler was clogging but like I said it was welded shut). What I should look for?
I have a 1997 Nissan pickup with 269000 mile on it when you first crank it up after sitting all night a puff of blue or white or gray smoke come out of the tail pipe.
View 11 RepliesI have an early 03 f350 with a 7.3 liter 298,000 miles on it
Replaced fuel filter
New oil change and filter replacement, New icp sensor .
Deleted the baffle and installed a cone air filter with the air sensor installed in the neck .
I Was driving home one day and the truck just slumped into this huge power loss . Couldn't get over 2200 rpms and barely made it over 30-40 mph.
Truck in park - idles like crap and still won't go over 2200 rpms when holding the pedal to the floor . And it has what sounds like a miss at a struggling "full throttle" (22-2500) rpms - thought it could be my icp sensor - replaced it -- no change
Checked driver side wiring harness -- no damage chafing found -- did a fuel can to pump test no difference - and today after I reinstalled the fuel line right after I ran my can to pump test I let the system prime . Started the truck and it ran for about 40 seconds and died and wound not fire back up and would just miss and spit and sputter -- lots of gray smoke though- but it fired up a few hours later after I let the batteries sit on charger .
Now before all this happened - I noticed the truck had a bit of a gutlessness to it as I would be piddling around around town and it would have this hesitation in power kind of like a slight jerking feeling , now this truck was so gutless since the day I got it ,I couldn't even burn out on a gravel road without the throttle going limp and the check engine.
Light kicking in so I figured I'd give it a bit of hotshots secret and see if It would maybe flush the injectors but it really made no difference...
7.3 auto, starts and idles OKAY, drives fine if you have a light foot but trying to go faster than 50mph or more than 2000 rpm and the whole thing has an anxiety attack. Starts sputtering and popping, lots of grey smoke when it runs rough rough, let off the throttle and it MIGHT behave nicely again.
New lift pump, cleaned the pickup tube, fuel bowl fills nice and fast, just had my edge attitude juice tuner removed since it was causing similar issues that went away for the last 2 months, changed my IPR and CPS (had a mechanic test everything when the tuner was taken out, all injectors buzzed good, sensors good)
When this first happened after the initial problem with the tuner was resolved, it did throw the CEL, but I have since been able to get it to come back on, and my buddies OBD2 scanner wasn't even registering my truck when I hooked up... Dare I say PCM is to blame?
Having trouble with motor, driving home one day heard a noise under the hood. Then a lot of grey smoke started coming out of exhaust. Got the truck hauled home notice fuel was coming out at the number 7 cylinder at exhaust port. Thought it might be the injector just put rebuilt ones in, thought I might have received a bad one. I switch the number 7 injector with the number 3 injector. Did not make a difference still have fuel leaking out of exhaust manifold at the number 7 cylinder and a lot of grey smoke coming out of exhaust. Not sure where to start looking next? Could it be the injector cup is the problem?
View 14 RepliesWell my problem went from bad to worse. My 05 started running rough at idle, then smoothed out a bit but started smoking on acceleration a little. At this point it felt like it had more power than ever before and even ran smoother running up to 3k RPM before shifting (manual transmission). But now it's smoking so bad, I can't really drive it. It's smoking white or gray at idle but blowing black smoke on acceleration. I had a cylinder 5 contribution code but with the amount of smoke it's hard to believe only one injector is a problem. I pulled the EGR valve and it doesn't look stuck open but I'm going to replace it anyway.
View 3 RepliesSo I went 30k over the recommended 3 k oil change. Anyway I got a synthetic change, and while I was leaving I noticed white smoke coming out of the tail pipe, it quickly subsided so I didn't go back to the shop. Anyway throughout the week it had been coming out when i start it up, then stopping short after,now today a week later it is really bad pouring out of the exhaust and even coming through my vents this most recent drive! what could of caused this??? They filled my windshield wiper container up, and i know that either had a leak or is broken because it stopped working a few months ago, could that be causing it?? I don't want to drive it if it is not safe and could damage the engine.
View 19 Replies93 Mercury Cougar 3.8L V6 with just over 83,000 miles
l've been trying to figure out this issue for ages, but can't seem to find the root of the issue. When driving and accelerating to 40mph, the rpms drop and GET STUCK at exactly 1000rpm. Forcing the accelerator down makes the engine bog and sputter and not go any faster. No check engine lights whatsoever.
The idle is very rough and low in park (700rpm compared to the regular 900) and very low in drive (500 compared to 650-750). When stopped in traffic for a while, it begins to shudder and shake like it wants to stall right there. Now let me run down the extensive list of parts l've thrown at it, bringing only temporary results:
Replaced catalytic converter
Replaced IAC valve
Replaced O2 sensors
Rebuilt transmission (runs great, so l've ruled that out)
Replaced 1fuel injector
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced motor mounts
Cleaned throttle body extensively
I asked a guy at a Firestone and he said that l needed a valve job. Asked another guy at another place, he said l needed a fuel system cleaning. Asked another guy under a tree, said l needed a new speed sensor. What could be the root issue? l was thinking carbon build up over 22 years maybe? Almost all 83k of those miles have been city miles...
This car is my baby, all l want is for it to be able to handle highway speeds without a hiccup. l'm keeping it and plan to see 100k hit the odometer and many more miles!
My 1998 Ford Expedition XLT with V8 5.4L engine has been having issues for about six months. It first started off with a strong gasoline and burnt rubber smell coming from the front of the car within a few minutes of starting the engine. Later, the whole car began vibrating and would intensely shudder every once in a while when idling. The car doesn't accelerate well from a standstill. The RPM will climb up to 3000-4000 while going from 0 MPH to 10 MPH, then it will lurch forward a bit and it pick up a little more speed. It struggles again around 15 MPH until it hit 20 MPH when it will lurch again and pick up normal acceleration. Once I try to go 40 MPH or more, the whole will start shuddering loudly and still struggles with maintaining speed. I have not attempted to drive over 50 MPH.
The best acceleration I can get is when I take 30-45 seconds to slowly press the gas pedal and work my way up to the speed I want.I was also following my father in another car while he drove the Expedition and on the highway, I saw sparks come out from the back of the Expedition's undercarriage when it climbed up an overpass. When driving over roads that aren't smooth, or when I accelerate, there is a sound from the back of the car like jangling chains or metal rods. It still makes the sound while the gas pedal isn't pressed or the gear is in neutral, so I think there is something, but have not seen anything underneath that could jangle around. While looking underneath, I saw that that some areas looked rusty, but not cracked. There is also a black piece under the engine that looked like it was made of plastic. It looked wet and oily and had a 2-3 inch opening in the center. I feel that there was supposed to be some sort of cover there.I now only drive it when it's unavoidable, usually once a week or less, and usually distances of 5 miles or less.I think the problem is with the use of fuel in the engine (fuel gauge fluctuates all the time, especially while driving on hills).
93, 3.1 Left work the other day, started to back out of the spot when I noticed the car was a little louder than normal. Acted like it didn't have as much power. Luckily I don't live far so I went ahead and drove on home. Car was shaky and sluggish, not wanting to accelerate. My first instinct was the cat. was clogged, but I let someone else look at it and they determined that it was not the cat. A little later, looked under the hood to find that the water pump was spitting coolant up on the underside of the hood.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4 wheel drive. It has a 5.7 liter engine and has 360,000 miles. I recently had a fuel pump put in last year. It is now running sluggish when I accelerate it will not go. This happens after it seems to warm up about 15 minutes of driving. I just replaced the fuel filter thinking that it may have been plugged up but it is still running poorly. When I put the fuel pressure gauge on it, it read 61-62 during start up and then dropped down to 57-59 (pulsates rapidly) after I started it.
View 2 RepliesMy 2004 Touareg V10 TDI drives like something's not just quite right, although hard for me to put my finger on. Essentially it feels sluggish, like it doesn't downshift to accelerate as quickly as it should, and like the automatic shifting is slightly jerky. This stuff is all even more noticeable at slower speeds and going up hill, but I think it's true even on city streets.
It's happened a few times, going up a fairly steep hill, that it seems to lose power and I can't get it over 20 or 25 mph even flooring it. Then when I turn the vehicle off and then back on, it can go more or less like normal again. Still, "normal" feels to me like something less than it used to be. I've recently changed the oil and all the filters (air, oil, fuel).
The dealer's service department says they can't find anything and the computer is not giving any error codes, but I know that it's not driving right.
Well I just set the timing on my rebuilt chevy 5.7 1999 suburban. It still runs sluggish when I accelerate and idles nice when it'd parked. I rebuilt the whole part part of engine. This is what I did notice when I cleaned under the lower intake manifold where the fuel injectors plug in. Here is a attached picture.
View 1 RepliesI just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.