Repair :: 2004 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SE - Check Engine Light Keep Coming On
Dec 16, 2015
I keep failing my emissions because my check engine light keeps coming on. I was told that the problem was the catalytic converter rear and needed to buy one for both sides. The problem I am having that I don;t know which Catalytic Converter I should buy. I know without it is causing my car to stutter. Which I should get?
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I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
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1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
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I have a Honda Accord 2004 Hybrid with 85,000 miles on it. My IMA and check engine light went on less than 2 months ago, and the dealer replaced the starter battery and it was "fixed". Less than 2 months later the same thing happened and the dealer claims that the hybrid battery is failing, need to replace it, and they can't do this anyhow because the part is backordered "indefinitely". Honda extended the hybrid battery to 80,000 miles but you are over the limit. So here's my question:
1. Can the car be driven without the hybrid battery, just using gas engine, without risk of getting stuck somewhere?
2. Is there any other remedy that would be less costly?
3. Was this a known problem that I should have been warned about when I bought the car.
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My 2002 Nissan Sentra's check engine light keeps coming on. It came on about three weeks ago, and our mechanic replaced an oxygen sensor. Two or three days later, it came back on. He figured the first sensor was faulty, and replaced it with another. The light came on as I was driving away from the place. The mechanic replaced some of the wires. And now, a week after that, the light came on again.
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My wife has a problem with the check engine light coming on and staying on. The dealer has replaced the fuel pump twice (which they say is the problem) but it keeps happening.
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i have a 2008 maxima with 30000+ miles. its service engine soon light came on recently. i disconnected the battery the light would go off, but would come back on again after a few days. it happened several times now. once i got a code P0011 from autozone while the light was on. the last time the light was on was a week ago and this time the light finally went off by itself yesterday. i took my car to a dealer today. a service advisor told me the reading on his code-reader is NO CODE and the car is fine!. so what have happened and what is wrong with it? could it be serious?
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I just purchased a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE with 219,000 miles. I've had it less than two weeks, and the Service Engine Soon light just came on. I live somewhere that requires emissions testing in order to register the vehicle. My temporary plate will expire soon, so I need to get the car to pass emissions.
This is my first Japanese car and first non-American vehicle. I didn't know until after I had given the check to the guy selling the car that he used premium gas. He said that Nissan recommends it. I've never driven a car that required premium gas before and wasn't keen on the idea since here, it is 40¢ a gallon more expensive than regular unleaded.
I spoke with my landlord about it, as he is a certified Honda mechanic. He told me to first try getting half a tank of regular unleaded and putting it in with some fuel injector cleaner. He said if I didn't notice any decrease in performance or knocks, to then just add a bottle of of fuel injector cleaner to every other tank of gas.
I got a half tank of regular unleaded with a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and didn't have any issues. I then filled the tank with regular without any fuel injector cleaner. I used about ¾ of that tank when the service engine soon light came on. I took the car to Valvoline to get the codes read, and while they couldn't give me any code numbers, they said it was something to do with emissions.
Here are my questions:
Is it possible the light came on because I switched from premium to regular unleaded or perhaps because I would need to add fuel injector cleaner to every tank of gas I get and not every other tank as my landlord said he does with his car?
Should I try either adding fuel injector cleaner to every tank of gas or just switch back to premium? If I try either of those, and one of those was the problem, how long would it take for the Service Engine Soon light to turn off?
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I have a 1998 Maxima with 57K miles on it. I just bought it about a month ago. Anyway, a week ago I noticed It felt very "choppy" when I shifted into Drive or Reverse. It felt like it was going to stall but it never did. The Service Engine Soon light has been on for about 3 weeks but now, when I go up hills especially, that light blinks. I can still drive it but I shift into Neutral at stoplights to avoid hearing the rough idle while in Drive. Went to Pep Boys yesterday - they had the car for about an hour and then informed me that they would need to keep the car for a full day because of the "complex issues involved" - especially concerning the codes. The codes they read were:
p0300 random misfire
p0325 knock sensor
p0440 evap emission
My car passed smog test abut 3 months ago. I can drive it OK it just is very choppy and so there's not a lot of power, especially going up hills.
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When the car is cold it runs fine. After driving for 10-15 minutes the transmission slips, while driving the engine revs and then engages again.I have only noticed the disengaging/engaging as speeds less than 40 MPH. When the car is in neutral and placed into drive it may take several seconds to engage which happens about 60% of the time. Could this be a sensor failure or time for a new transmission?
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I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier pickup that I bought used in 2012. Shortly after I purchased it the the check engine light came on, would go off and back on. Last year (before inspection) I hooked it to the diagnostic auto scanner and it read the error as four oxygen sensors. The truck was running fine but in order to get it inspected I ended up changing all four sensors. The light came back on within the week (as soon as it rained) then would go off a few days later. Rain--on, then off. I managed to get it in for inspection on one of the days the light was off. So, now it is again inspection time. Light is on, still error on the scanner as oxygen sensors. Light has not gone off in a long time.
Also noting here that I have checked this error on several different scanners. The truck is running fine. Before I take it to the dealership is there anything else this could be?
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my 2004 Nissan Murano has suddenly encountered a slight problem, and when i mean slight, I mean I am pretty concerned about it. Two days ago, I was driving in a school zone on the way to work when my car stopped working! All of the dash lights came on and the gas did not work. So, I stopped the car, parked, turned it off, then turned it back on. It was slow to start, but started, and got me to work. Since then, the check engine light is always on, and it sounds like it wont start when i turn it on, but does. We thought it might be a battery problem, so we got the battery changed, but that didn't work. I am afraid to drive it a lot because i don't want to make anything worse.
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Our 2008 Prius has about 111,000 miles on it and the check engine light has been coming on and off for a day or two at a time in the past few weeks. I've seen some things online about this possibly being (1) an electrical connection issue or (2) a inverter coolant pump issue. I've been thinking about taking the car in to a local Toyota specialist to check things out, but I thought I'd check with y'all first.
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On my 1996 Maxima (175k miles, maintained well, good shape, no CEL), whenever I brake beyond a "normal" stop but short of a panic stop, I then put my foot on the gas and it revs as though it's in neutral. It then catches first gear, and the car drives normally. As for the stopping conditions, I don't mean a normal "here comes a stop sign" comfortable stop, and I'm not stopping so hard that I activate the ABS. More like, I look up, see a stop sign 1 second too late, and have to stop slightly shorter than a comfortable stop. The ATF is fine, by the way. Any clue what this could be?
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I have a 2004 standard Elantra GT. I had to get an emissions test and the CEL light will not stay off. My garage replaced two valves in the fuel tank and the neck to the tank and have done numerous "smoke tests" but can't find the leak. Now they are saying there is something wrong with the computer. They got it to stay off long enough to pass the test, but the light's on again. I see that there was a recall issued because of the cracked exhaust manifold, I think I had the catalytic converter replaced up at the cottage.
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I have a 2004 Accent GS. It is an automatic. I have had it for almost a year.
In early November, the check engine light came on when the temperature dropped drastically and it went off when it warmed up a bit about 3 days later. Since then it seems to come on randomly and stay on for a few days then go off (usually around once-twice a month). Then in late December I noticed that the car had trouble starting after I refueled it, the first two times I though it was because I had let the fuel get down too much. Now every time I fuel up it does this. But just the first time turning on the car and no other time after that.
The check engine light had not come on again for almost a month, and then about a week ago it came on again. I double checked all the fluids and the gas cap but that's about as far as my knowledge of cars goes. When the light has come on I have not really noticed any handling differences. However since I need to put the car through an inspection very soon it is now concerning me a bit more. What could be causing the check engine light to go on and off?
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2004 Audi A6 2.7 T quattro ... Check engine light comes on and three mechanics all say i need new torque converter even tho i have no symptoms as yet. Will I get symptoms eventually, or could this be an electrical issue. When they turn off the warning light, it takes a day or so to come back on. There has been no reduction of mileage, no gear slipping, no problem accelerating.
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My wife was complaining of white smoke coming from the back of the car and that she smelled gasoline. So I took her 1999 Nissan Maxima to the shop and they put it on the machine and told me that the ignition rod was stuck open and that gasoline was leaking into the engine. They also said that it was not safet to drive. What an ignition rod is and why the car is not safe to drive? The car's value is questionable at this point.
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Okay so I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima 150k and the problem that I'm experiencing is that when the vehicle is in drive my foot on the brake for example at a red light and I have the AC on the engine will begin to stumble similar to a misfire however no check engine light will be displayed if I were to turn the AC off and sit at a red light in here with my foot on the brake the car idles fine and smooth the car currentl drives fine accelerates fine idles fine it's only when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake and the car and in drive with the AC on that the engine stumbles accelerating or cruising any speed above idle with a/c the runs smooth its only at idle and the simple is not predictable it happens often but at random intervals
What I've done so far 1.5 years ago I put in iridium spark plugs Recently cleaned the throttle body its a electronic throttle body Fuel pump and filter were replace in March 2016I tested the alternator put a load on it to see if the engine would stumble but it didn't
My a/C blows cold air and everything in the car works.
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My car's an 04 Mitsubishi Lancer ES, 4-cyl, 2.0L. So long story short, my check-engine light has been coming up every now and again for the last couple months with the code P0421, which a shop has confirmed I need a new manifold catalytic converter for (they ruled out any problems with O2 sensors).
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1990 Maxima. Last night the car started shaking after pulling up to stop sign, it kept shaking the whole way home. Acceleration was slow and difficult. Car started up fine this morning, started to shake again at first stop sign...then it was OK for rest of the day.
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