Repair :: 2001 Ford Escort Stalling At Stops
May 27, 2011
I have a 2001 Ford Escort with 92,000 miles that recently has started stalling when coming to stops. It's especially bad on stop and go traffic. It starts up easily every time, and once I'm actually driving with steady speeds, it has no problems. I've had plans to go out of town this Memorial weekend and visiting friends about 200 miles away (400 round trip). The earliest that I can get the car into the mechanic is Tuesday. This trip would be mostly highways and very few stops, but I don't know if it's safe to do so. Would I potentially be causing damage to the engine?
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I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
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In the summer I have a habit of switching off the air conditioner every time I pull away from a stop, then turn it back on after I get up to speed again. Because the engine needs the most power when pulling away from stops, I have the impression that this saves fuel. Is this necessary?
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i have a 1998 escort se when i park the car on a slant it leaks gas it has been leaking for about 2 weeks now. The other day i parked it on driveway it is up hill the car would not start so i push it down to a straight surface it started now i see the car is stalling now. Could it be fuel pump, gas tank or something else...
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My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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I have a 2003 f150 2WD crew cab with a 4.6 V8 engine it has 178,000 miles on it. The other day after I started it to leave work it died on me without hesitation almost like the ignition switch was turned off I tried to restart and it would turn over but wouldn't start so I switched the ignition all the way off and it started right up, going down the road it did it again.
If I try to restart without turning the ignition all the way off it won't start but if I turn it all the way off it will start up first try, it has done it a couple times since and its the same way every time, where to start. My check engine light has been on for some time for something else so I don't know if it picked up a code or not I don't have a code reader to see if it has a new code...
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My 2003 ranger xlt 4.0 has a stalling problem. The engine light came on in aug and I had it coded at AutoZ and there was a code for the oxy sensor, changed that and didn't work so I took it back. In oct I had it coded and it said the air int temp sensor which i was informed was part of the mas airflow sensor, changed that the beginning of nov, got the computer to reset and it still didn't fix it.
Took that part back and had it coded again a few days later and several codes came up AutoZ code 1732 and the the OEM number to cross for them were: P2195 , P0300 , P0316 , P0174 , P0171 , P2197 . Reset the comp yesterday and as soon as the light came on had them code it again and it came up AutoZ code 1732 OEM # to cross P2195. I guess my next step will be to take it to the dealers to get diagnosed..
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I have a 1995 ford ranger v6 4.0 and for this week Ive been having a problem, stalling... It only happens when I do quick "stop and go" driving. Even sometimes at stop lights it wants to stall, the only way to keep it going is to keep my foot on the gas.
Now for a while when its cold or my truck has been sitting for a day or two the truck doesn't start on the first click.
I've had the fuel pressure checked, changed fuel pump, and starter. I have no check engine light on at the moment. Tomorrow I am gonna check with my scan tool just to make sure. But, it could be fuel pressure regulator, idle air control actuator, egr valve? How I should go along doing this?
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My speedometer was intermittent for a while, stalling, then moving, but never above the actual speed. Now I turn it on, but as soon as I move, it travels up to 38mph then stays there until I turn off the engine, then it hangs for 4/5 seconds, then drops to zero.
I replaced the VSS in the rear diff, and the one on the tranny. I checked all fuses. There are no other dummy lights or indications. Bad ground? I'm hoping I don't need a new gauge cluster.
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Bought this truck a few months back. Nothing but problems. I always thought it has felt a little underpowered and hesitant. I chalked it up to being a 5.4l in a f250. Well now im thinking it has been a symptom all along.
Lately, the truck has been stalling at stops. Randomly, but not often. The truck idles at 750rpm when I start it, but after driving and then coming to a stop while in overdrive it idles at 400rpm. This seems too low to me.
It hesitates occasionally when giving it throttle. Just today it got really bad and was almost unresponsive. I would hit the throttle and it would just idle while randomly kind of shooting up in RPS and shuddering. It finally produced some error codes, it looks like, but I am afraid to drive it all the way to the autozone.
I am thinking TPS. Is the TPS attached to the pedal or is the TPS attached to throttle body under the hood? I've read some conflicting stuff about this. The good news is that if it is the TPS then it should act like a whole new truck after I replace it.
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So my car just started randomly dying everytime i came to a stop. Just shudders and off and then when i go to restart it cranks no problem but will not start. If i just wait for about 5 minutes it will start right up again but then die on the next few stops. A few hours later i go try again and i get it home no problem but still kept the rpms up when i wasnt moving. Filled up with 93 and put some gas treatment and it seems to be fine. What can it be? just bad gas or water in it? or could it be battery, alternator or clutch?
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I have a 2000 Saab 9-3, the 'Viggen' model, and it almost always runs just fine. But once in a while, maybe every couple of thousand miles, the engine just stops, in the middle of cruising along. The power steering goes dead immediately. So far, it has only happened in city driving, not going fast or accelerating hard. I can restart immediately by just depressing the clutch and running the starter. From other reading, I wonder whether it's the Direct Ignition Casset? The engine is the 2.3 L turbo.
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My brakes are working fine, and the car starts up okay. However, when I press on the gas and go anywhere over 20 mph or so, my car will start, then stop, then start, then stop... Until I step off the gas. There's also a semi-frequent squealing noise whenever I press the gas. The Service Engine Soon Light is on. What it is?
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I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
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My 2001 Escort has two intermittent issues which I think are related. At times the car does not start when turning the key to start position there no clicking and engine does not turn over. but all other electric work. Battery and starter have been tested and both passed. Second issue is some times when it starts the shift lever will not move out of the park position. Does this car needs to have the break depressed before it will start and come out of park and could a safety switch be the cause?
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I've had a CEL for awhile so I final had it checked. It is the P0605 pcm memory error. He cleared it to see if it will come back. There isn't any chip or never has been a chip in it as far as I know. If it does end up being the pcm, what are my options? can it be repaired? Do I need a new one? Can I get a used one and if so what are the criteria I need to look for, for it to be compatible?
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I have a 2001 Ford ZX2 with 170,000 miles on it. The clutch pedal doesn't engage the clutch until it is almost touching the floorboard. I thought it had a hydraulic clutch being a 2001 but I can't find a reservoir for the fluid so now I must assume now that it is a mechanical clutch.
1. Does they hide the reservoir on these ZX2's?
2. What could cause the clutch issue?
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I recently had my Subaru Impreza (2011) brought in for repairs to replace the brake pads and rotors. Upon driving home from the repair shop, I noticed that it was a lot harder to pull up on my parking brake than before when I parked.
My question is: is this a sign of something I should go back to the mechanic about? Is there such thing as the parking brakes being on TOO tight? I just wanted to be sure.
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2001 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3 L engine and a leaking head gasket that was getting worse (at 217,000 miles). Car has rusted body (upstate NY), so not going to spend too much for repairs. Decided to try one of those "magic elixors" in a bottle. Went for the Bars Leaks head gasket repair stuff - Followed directions, etc (put it into the top radiator tube, NOT the overflow bottle). The stuff had little strings of copper-looking stuff floating in it. It worked. After a little more loss of coolant, the coolant loss has finally stopped. Amazing that something like this really worked.
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I start the car - a 2001 Ford Focus 4 cyl DOHC. It runs fine for 30 seconds then stops, as if it is no longer getting fuel. I can't start it again for a couple days then the same thing happens over again. FWIW, I parked the car for 8 months before this happened and only started it once in that time. But it ran fine then and before I parked it. What can this be?
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On my 01' the bottoms of the bump stops are completely gone. Rusted out to the point to where the rubber stop on the front lower control arm (if the truck bottomed-out) would go right thought it. The rubber stops are fine.
This pic was taken from below the control arm looking up. You see the rubber bumper and just above it is the stop (some what triangular shaped). the bottom is rotted away... Are these replaceable or repairable? They seem like they are welded to the frame.
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