Q45 - Infiniti :: 1998 - Shakes At Stop Lights And Tries To Cut Off
Jan 7, 2015
1998 Infiniti Q45 ... Car shakes at stop lights and tries to cut off, unless I put into neutral and keep my foot on gas peddle, What is causing this? Mechanic does not know what problem is.
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I have recently had my motor mounts and transmission mount replaced.
Before the replacement, the car would shake quite noticeably when the engine was being started (maybe even shake 'violently'). I thought this was normal until I had my motor mounts and transmission mount replaced. Now when I start the engine the SC430 doesn't shake at all. The difference is profound.
Just a head's up. I'm not sure what the implications are of running with bad motor mounts for a long time, but I decided to get it done because my car would shake when idle and at stop lights.
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Put in two starters in two years. This winter started having trouble when driving car - occasionally when I hit a bump in the road the radio and wipers cut off and if I pull over and restart the car they will come back on. My mechanic thought it was due to a loose battery cable and he tightened it up but, it is still happening. Also noted - when starting occasionally I hear a e-e-e-rk sound (I think the ignition) and if I turn key to off and try again it usually starts - sometimes it takes 2-3 tries. Infinity 1998 I30 Touring...
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can getting a new battery put in my 98' Monte Carlo mess with the dash lights to stop working?I really dont know if they were working prior , I just got it on Monday
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My car has been stalling out while at stop lights and while driving as well as spuddering and hesitating . i brought it in to the shop twice and both times they said it ran fine . they ran the code and gave me a new oxygen sensor and it still stalled. i brought it to autozone today and they ran the code and camshaft position sensor came up. so i put a new one in and it still is stalling and hesitating to drive. also smells really bad when it kick in. What could be wrong . short circuit or wiring trouble maybe? fuel pump ? crankshaft? electrical problem? spark plugs? cant get a straight answer.
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My 2000 Infiniti QX4 has 145,000 miles. It starts fine but when i press the gas when going from a stop position it has little power.There is an hesitation and then it moves very slowly even if the gas pedal is depress all the way. Once it gets to 20 or 30 miles it moves okay. The problem is only present when going from stop. Due to the lack of acceleration, I am reluctant to drive it on the highway because of the risk of a slow merger...
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I took my 1998 Infiniti I30 to my mechanic for routine maintenance, and I noticed the engine was working a tiny bit harder to startup and to accelerate on highway in the last 2 weeks. They discovered the air filter and housing were completely burnt out! We're scratching our heads. Internet search and check with other mechanics- no clues. It's been a dream for years with routine maintenance, has only 125k, last service May 2013 since I only drove it 5K since then. I'm the only driver and it sleeps in my garage (secure, no rodents). What the heck?
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Recently my Infiniti G20's turn signals and hazard lights stopped working. I replaced the flasher relay and turn signal switch but it did not solve the problem. Here is the kicker or clue. The lights flash when locking or unlocking the car with the remote FOB.
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3 weeks ago my father (who died 2 weeks ago) gave me his 1991 Infiniti G20 which he has kept in great condition over the years with the last few being the exception. He's the original owner and I have paperwork from every repair and service it's had. Unfortunately the issue it has now started happening after he passed so I'm not going to get info about how it's been running the last couple years. Now to the good stuff.
When I got the car it was outside under a carport like always (lives near Seattle). I drove the car about 200 miles and then a couple days later I noticed the turn signal stopped working, but not only that there were several things not working. The turn signals (yet hazard lights work), the seat belt motor will not let it roll back across my chest, the blower won't work but the AC and heat still works, the rear defogger stopped, the ABS stopped, and the warning lights and sounds for doors open and seat belts were undone don't work.
Then while driving everything just "clicked" back on for about 5 minutes, then "clicked back off the rest of the drive. The next day I started the car, everything was fine but after waiting a couple minutes for the windows to get defogged everything shut off again. Driving around with foggy windows, no turn signals, and no seat belt across my chest is starting to scare me. Oh, and the problem can turn on and off without the engine on. If I just put the key into the "on" position it will sometime switch between working and not working.
I have unplugged and replugged the fuses and relays on the left side under the steering wheel, I've checked the voltage of the battery (2 years old with 7 year warranty and alternator was replaced 18 months ago) and it was about 12.4. I've tried reading the wiring diagram in the service manual without any luck figuring it out. When I took it to the Nissan dealership they did their scans and couldn't recreate the issue and charged me $100 just for doing the electrical tests.
I want this car to keep going since it has 174,000 miles and runs great (manual trans) so need to figure out whats going on. It doesn't seem like it's a loose wire because the car doesn't have to move for it to go back and forth between working and failing. It sometimes works more often if the car is kept in a garage but even then I'm not sure. At one point in the last year a couple mice got into the trunk but they have since left and I don't see anything in the manual that says they could have effected anything all the way back there.
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My car shakes a lot on high speeds and the other day i noticed that my passenger back tire is kind of tilted its not sitting on straight i tried to take it off and put it on again but it just doesn't sit on straight for some reason so i was wondering i have a 98 passat wagon 1.8t FWD... Do these cars need alignment in the back tires too or just the front ? Because someone had told me that the alignment could cause the back wheel to tilt is this true? Will alignment fix my problem ?
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My wife's 1998 Nissan Altima , 100 K miles, starts to shake and stall in the summer when the A/C is on and she stops for a light.
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My son's 1998 shook and cut off at a red light today. I am taking it to be fixed and do not want to be taken for a ride financially. What it could be, so I can show up at the repair shop professing some knowledge?
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I have a 98 Ranger SuperCab XLT 4WD 4.0 Auto. Occasionally, especially when it has been sitting for more than 3 days, it shakes for maybe 30 seconds on startup. It smooths out gradually after that, maybe 15 sec. to normal smoothness. It seems like it is firing on all cylinders and is more like something out of balance.
Never does it when sits less than 2 days. When it happens, the longer it sits the worse it shakes.
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1998 Passat 1.8t B5 sedan. OEM fog lights up front. No rear fog lights.
I recently upgraded to a "Euro" light switch to get more flexibility with my lights. Put tape on the TFL pin to disable DRLs in OFF Mode. Put tape on the 56d pin to disable DRLs in CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode. Completely successful -- no DRLs, just as taping the TFL pin on the original light switch accomplished long ago.
BEFORE I did any taping this time, I installed the Euro switch AS IS and tested all of its modes and physical positions:
(1) OFF: No fog light position available (switch knob will not pull out). As expected and okay.
(2) FULL ON Fog lights come on (but who the hell can see them?!?) when switch knob is pulled out one stop into the fog light position -- and the little front fog symbol on the switch lights up. Again, expected and just fine.
(3) CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights): The fog lights position is physically available by pulling the switch knob out one stop... BUT THE PARKING LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON (regardless of ignition switch position, emergency hand brake position, etc., etc.) And the little fog light symbol on the switch does not light up. (Not surprisingly, pulling the knob further out to the REAR fog light position does nothing either.)
THIS IS NOT GOOD - since with a Euroswitch one ought to be able to manually select and de-select the fog lights while in CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode!
How to make my FRONT FOG LIGHTS available in Euroswitch CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode...?
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with roughly 150k miles. When the weather is cold outside the steering wheel will shake until the car warms up. I have taken the car into the shop and they checked the engine mounts, tie rods, etc and they told me that the car is fine. The tires are not unbalanced nor are they packed with dirt or debris. The vibration only occurs when the car is cold and it goes away once the car warms up. Also, the vibration will stop when I simply place a small amount of pressure on the steering wheel with my hand or knee. The vibration does not occur when I am driving at low or high speeds and it usually only occurs when I am stopped at stop signs or lights.
I have done the regular maintenance on the vehicle and I have replaced the timing belt, spark plugs/ wires, belt(s), etc, if that make a difference.
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My Yukon, with 140,000 miles, will sometimes start/fire up right away but other times it sluggish to start and then when it finally does it will shake for a while. Also, sometimes when idling at a stop light it will shake. It will also shake sometimes when I get around 60-70 mph. The rpm's are fine.
I replaced the fuel pump last spring and had a tuneup last summer. What could be causing this? I've had my mechanic look at it and he's hooked up his handheld diagnostic tool to it and it never shows any codes.
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I have changed the rotor, inner and outer bearings, and the brake shoes look pretty good. My truck still shakes when I stop, it acts like bad rotors, but they are new.
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My 2002 passat engine shakes when in idle or stop at light. When running on highway, it is smooth. what could it be?
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have a 1992 nissan 240sx; it shakes when i started the engine or when it idles or @ a complete stop. runs well on freeway & was able to drive home. mechanic thinks it's probably cylinders not firing well over phone prognosis. it also sounds like there may be a leak. it stalled a few times & had to restart the car. no problems restarting. have not brought it in for diagnosis.
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and when i am going down hill and coming to a stop sign the whole car shakes , the whole front end was redone and yet the problem still persists, It also stalls out when coming to a stop sometimes what could this be ?
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I have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
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