Prizm - Chevrolet :: AC Making Metallic-sounding Grinding Noise When Off
Nov 26, 2011
About 5 years ago, my air conditioner started making a metallic-sounding grinding noise, when it is turned OFF. This noise goes away if the A/C is on. My mechanic said some part was slightly bent, bent it back, and this fixed it for a while. Eventually the noise came back but was intermittent. I drove the car for years hoping it would go away, leaving the A/C on most of the time. The noise is no longer intermittent, and my new mechanic says that it seems louder than before and if I don't get it fixed, it might cause the car to stall out. He offered to bypass it with a belt or replace the unit. What this could be? I drive with the A/C on now. 1998 geo prizm
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I drive a 2001 Chevy Prizm with 90,000 miles on it. Lately, when I'm accelerating over about 30 to 40 mph, my engine starts to make a grinding noise, that gets worse the faster I go, or the more pressure I apply. The noise also happens when I'm going up hill. What's causing this noise, so I don't look like an idiot when I take it in to my mechanic?
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I have a 2001 Chevy Prizm that I just had the front pipe replaced on. It was not accelerating well and making noise. New front pipe and it feels like a new car. The check engine light came on. i cleared the code, drove it for a day or so, and the light is back on. My exhaust mechanic says we don't really need to worry about the cat con hurting our engine unless we see a decrease in performance. Are there any mechanics out there who would say that is true. The car has 160,000 miles and we want to see it go another 100,000 or so, and not do anything to damage the engine.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and it's making a loud grinding metallic noise on the front left side. It does it while I drive the faster I go the louder it gets. When I turn to the left it makes it louder, when I turn right the noise decreases. PG&E have been breaking the roads by where I live and there's a lot of little rocks I drive thru. I'm wondering if that's the problem?? What do I do?
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I have a 1987 Camaro with a 305 TPI V-8, with a 5-speed manual transmission. I rebuilt the transmission, and installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and had the fly wheel ground (which the machine shop said that it took very little material off to get clean-up). When we first got the car running when the car is moving in any gear (even in neutral) with the clutch peddle down, I get a rotary grinding noise (but only about 30% of the time). If I let the clutch pedal up the noise stops immedately. The transmission shift smooly, in all gear selection. I thought that I had gotten a bad throw out bearing, so we installed an other new throw out bearing, but I get the same noise. Is there something that could cause this noise inside the transmission?
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My Prizm is making a noise that seems to be related to the blower but sounds like it is coming from behind the control panel/radio. Even changes volume and stops with bumps. I am going to check the blower motor motor, but sound doesn't appear to be coming from the dash area where I believe the blower motor is. What else it may be?
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I have 2005 Chevy Malibu that has been making slightly metallic thud noises while turning. The car does not need to be in motion, but will make the noise in both forward or reverse in both directions. The noise is gradually increasing in loudness. I have inspected the CV boots and verified that this car has electric power steering assist. The dealer would not look at it, stating that the "Malibu's do this". Additionally the service rep stated that "if he had it checked out they would not find anything anyway." This noise does not sound like anything that should be ignored and sounds like major failure / safety issue pending. I can find no consensus on what might be wrong?
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My 2008 FSI makes a dry noise when i turn the steering wheels in either direction. I've been looking for a solution and so far I've found none. What can it be?
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I have a 1999 Chevy Geo Prizm a.k.a. Toyota Corolla. I am new to car ownership and don't know much about maintenance yet.
Recently, the back right wheel has started making a soft "wumm wumm wumm" noise when the car is in motion. The faster I drive, the more the noise speeds up, so it seems like something is coming loose or out of alignment. I've driven over a fair number of potholes in the last couple of months, and while I don't remember any particularly gnarly ones, I imagine that's what has caused the problem.
Any guesses as to what might be going wrong, how dire it is, and what I should expect to hear from the mechanic when I take it in?
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When my vent is on the face setting, a grating/whistling noise emanates when the fan is on.This does not happen on the floor or defrost positions. The noise diminishes when it is in the face and partial floor or defrost setting. What may be causing the noise and how I could fix it.
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I had my brakes done almost two weeks ago and last week I noticed a metallic sounding clunk front right (I think) when I went over a bump. It's hard to replicate but I've heard it a few times. On the weekend I reversed and heard that same clunk. When I went forward slowly, I could hear a sound that can only be described as a few screws in a rotating soda can. When I sped up, all sounds disappeared.
I took it to my tech yesterday on the way home. He found a bit of a loose fit between the new caliper and what it attaches to, which he fixed. However, the sound persists. Tech said all suspension components seem tight and normal.
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I own a 2003 Honda Accord with approximately 90,000 miles. I've noticed a metallic-sounding clank coming from what sounds like the front wheels when I go over all potholes and road imperfections (which are frequent in NY). Additionally, if I travel over the same potholes or road imperfections while on the brakes, there's no noise. More recently, I've noticed an additional noise. If I am traveling at a slow speed, such as parking or driving in a fast food drive thru, I'll hear a loud clicking coming from the front wheels as they turn, when I have the wheel turned.
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I have fairly new brakes on my 97 Chevy Tahoe with 202,000+ miles. For the last several months when I come to a stop, sometimes the brakes make a grinding sound (or 'boy-yoi-yong' sound- it's hard to tell) and the brake pedal feels like it 'slips' although the brakes do always stop the car. The brake don't always do this but it happens at least once or twice a day. Sometimes the problems is very mild, other times it's very noticeable. have it checked by two mechanics and they can't get the brakes to misbehave so they can't find the problem. All they did was flush the brake fluid twice and tell me it MIGHT be the master cylinder or the ABS system. My husband got laid off from his job and I am disabled. We can't afford to start fixing everything the mechanics THINK might be wrong with the brakes.
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I'm at my place in Florida 1,000 miles from home, and when I started the car in a mall parking lot, there was some grinding metallic noise for a few seconds and I couldn't get it into first or reverse and the clutch pedal was way down. I was able to get going in 2nd and eventually the clutch was back to normal and I could get 1st and R. What happened? Broke some fingers in the pressure plate? Seems to run fine now but have a 1,000 mile ride ahead in the morning.
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My car has developed some intermittent noise but I can't pinpoint the exact source, though it seems to be coming from the front. I hear it in 1st gear when accelerating, and it's more audible if I have my windows down. A faint metallic grinding/friction/rotating noise is how I think I could most accurately describe it. I do have an oil change coming up in the next few weeks and will mention it then.
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My car has been doing this more. When I turn into a parking spot or my works' parking garage my car front end makes a Metal Grinding noise But it does not make this noise when I am driving - turning corners. Car is a 2007 Toyota Corolla LE (I miss my Beetle). The Toyota service says brakes are fine and they see nothing. I am not the only one that hears it... My son has hard it and I have startled some pedestrians.
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I have owned a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4L for the past two years, and she has served me well. However, I have been having issues lately. She has hit 179,400-ish miles and with age things have started to fail. I want to know how much it will cost to fix these things and if I can do it myself.
There is a metallic popping noise coming from the right front side of the vehicle every time I make a turn (I haven't particularly noticed if it's a left- or right-hand turn when it happens.) I have been advised by my father that it's probably a CV (constant velocity) joint. Is that what's causing the noise?
My right front headlight has gone out, and I've replaced the bulb as well as the fuse, but it's still out. Could it be faulty wiring? The left front blinker has stopped blinking, I hope that's as simple as changing out the bulb.
The shift is automatic, but in the mornings (I've noticed it's mostly when it's cold outside) I attempt to move the shifter out of park and it won't budge for several minutes. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off, and then turn it back on for the shifter to move.
One last question- how often should I change and/or flush my transmission fluid and the filter, and can I do that myself or should I take it to the dealership? (Which I am reluctant to do.)
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I've been hearing a rhythmic, metallic ringy grinding noise coming from the driver side front end of the car that seems to be in time with wheel rotation. It happens between 5 and 40mph, worsens while the steering wheel is turned even the slightest to the right, goes away completely during left turns, reduces and becomes intermittent above 45mph, and between 0 and 5mph, as I turn the wheel to the right from any position, I hear squeaking. I recently had the front control arm, ball joints and struts replaced. It has 140k miles. What could it be?
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away.
My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away. My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
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I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
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