I've owned a 2001 Chevy Prizm LSi for about 12 years and it's been burning oil at a rate of about 1 quart every 200 miles or so. No tail pipe emissions or noticeable smoke and no OBDC codes.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevy Prizm - a Toyota Corolla clone. It has about 50K miles and uses oil at the rate of about 1 quart every couple hundred miles. You'd think if the oil was being burned, it would leave a trail of smoke behind the car - or at least, the rear of the car would be covered with oil. Or if there was a leak, the underside of the car would be covered with it.
Nope, neither of those cases. No drips in the driveway, the underside is clean, no smoke. The only trace is that around the exhaust is a small amount of oily dirt - but it seems only slightly excessive - certainly not in proportion to the amount I am using. Where the oil is going?
My 2008 Honda Accord started burning oil at the rate of 1 quart per 2000 miles. It currently has 48,000 miles on it. The dealer told me that this is within Honda's specifications. Honda won't do any warranty work unless it is burning oil at the rate of 1 quart every 1,000 miles. The dealer service person told me that if I use their oil and filters - get my oil changes there at the dealership - it will burn much less oil. Question - if they are using some sort of high mileage oil, and it does indeed burn less oil, is this problem considered fixed? Should I hold out for some engine work before the warranty runs out? How should I approach this?
View 19 RepliesMy 2006 GS300 has oil burning issue after 80k miles now my odo is at 110k miles. I have changed my oil every 5000 miles, keep burning about 1 quart every 1k miles average. Literally burnt about 20 quarts of an oil with premium fuel. At 105k miles, I had replaced my bank 2 sensor 2 after the check engine light and vsc light came on, reset the code those lights came right back on.
Check the code again, found out bad cat converter between passenger side sensors. The recalls has been done at 65k miles at dealer. My questions are :
-What would be the cause of burning that much of an oil? No leaking on floor or bad smell.
-Is burnt oil causing the failure of cat converter?
-If I replace the cat, will it go bad again?
I have a brand new 2012 BMW 650, production date Nov 2011, and took delivery in December 2011. The low oil light indicator came on at 3300 miles 4 months later. Took it to the dealership and I reported to the service advisor that the car had a clanky (like a fan was hitting it's surrounding metallic covering) noise for 1-2 seconds on cold start and then disappears. I also told them that there was excessive soot noted on the passenger side exhaust tip. I was told by the dealership that this was normal oil consumption.
The dealership put in one quart of oil and told to monitor the oil consumption. At near 6600 miles and 3 months later the low oil light indicator came on again. Took it back to the dealership and the service advisor told me everything was normal and again added another quart of oil. The odometer is now at 8500 miles and the oil level indicator shows half full at 1900 miles later. I keep my cars for a long time and the first oil change is at 15,000 miles. I am sure I don't want to mess with adding a quart of motor oil every 3-4 months. I would not have bought this car if I was told or made aware that this was normal oil consumption.
I have a 2004 VR6 GTI and it's burning around a quart every 1000 miles. I understand that it could be the notorious piston ring issue, but I am running heavyweight oil and it still seems to be burning. I'm currently running 20w-50 (That is what the previous owner was running and I figured I shouldn't switch it up). There doesn't seem to be a leak either... Are any additives worth a shot?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1997 Toyota RAV4 with 137,500. I got it in 2004 with 93,000 miles. Since I've had it, it burns about 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles or so. I don't think it's been getting worse since I've had it. I had the compression in the cylinders checked last year, and the compression's good in all four of them. What the problem might be? It the problem worth repairing, or should I just keep adding a quart of oil every 1,000 miles? Also, does burning oil damage other parts of the car?
View 5 RepliesMy 2013 Subaru outback four-cylinder is burning 2/3 of a quart of oil per 1000 miles. It is not leaking anywhere so I know it is burning the oil. The dealership says I need to replace the engine, I'm just wondering is it bad on anything else in the car if I keep driving it for a little while before replacing it? how much longer I could go?
FYI: The power train warranty is void because of rear end damage and a rebuilt title.
OK, updating my test with my 2006 127k mile engine burning oil. After 2 OCI with MMO added to the oil, it has not improved the oil burning. I was using 3 quarts 5w30 oil and added 1/2 quart of MMO. Oil burning seems to be about 1 quart 1500 miles or so. I believe before this MMO test, the car was burning around 1 quart every 2000 miles or so.
This may be because the oil has been thinned out by MMO but not really sure. Next OCI, I will be using Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w30, because I heard that oil has exceptional cleaning power.
So I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra which was given to me by my family and it's main issue is how much oil it is burning constantly. I find the car to be a lot more safer and reliable than my previous vehicle a 98' ford taurus. I have my 1 year old son with me daily so his safety is my #1 concern especially when we are in the car so whatever I must do to fix this issue, I am ready though I am hoping to not have to replace the engine. The car is currently at 176,653 miles as of right now. I have done a lot of research on this issue in these past months and this is what 'lve come up with.
I have seen a lot of blogs regarding similar issues that their nissan sentra was burning massive amounts of oil due to the manufacturer's precat. It has been said to relieve the vehicle from its oil burning issue to change the precat to a header so one of my questions is would you find that to be the most reasonable answer, to change the precat to a header?? I was told the precat in my car had been changed previously so I inspected the car myself due to finding the mechanic had replaced the precat with another precat thus making no change to the issue at hand. I am getting really tired of feeding my engine oil when it just guzzles it down in a day or two. Here are some questions i have:
Would changing the precat to a header be the most reasonable solution to ridding this oil burning problem?? (if thats the case this would really relieve me over the stress i endure from this car)
I currently use SAE 10W 40 High Mileage engine oil; the owner manual says to use A) SAE 5W-30 viscosity oil for all temperatures & B) SAE 10W-30 or SAE 10W-40 if the ambient temperature is above 0*F so after using choice B, would changing now to SAE 5W-30 be a good idea?
I have a 1997 f 150 4.6l, 145k miles, it seems that very slowly it is loosing coolant but i haven't noticed any leaks, it also burn about a quart of oil every 3000 miles but i was told that was normal?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 Toyota Matrix that has 127,000 miles on it. It has had several sources of oil loss in the past year and now it just seems to be burning it. I am very skeptical that a toyota engine is burning oil at 127,000miles. I replaced a part called a pcv valve as well as a seal that was causing leakage. Now I am losing about a quart every 1000 miles and no leaks can be found. Any other things that would cause oil loss besides burning?
View 9 RepliesI have a Chevy Prizm 1998 and I drive about 250 miles a week. Recently I started going through a quart of oil in 2 weeks. My engine sounds good. I am religious about changing my oil and filter every 3,000 miles and I check my oil every time I fill up my gas tank. There is no blue smoke and no oil spots on the garage. Could it possibly be a small leak that only occurs while I am driving or a am I dreaming?
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2001 Chevy Prizm with 90,000 miles on it. Lately, when I'm accelerating over about 30 to 40 mph, my engine starts to make a grinding noise, that gets worse the faster I go, or the more pressure I apply. The noise also happens when I'm going up hill. What's causing this noise, so I don't look like an idiot when I take it in to my mechanic?
View 1 RepliesHave a 2001 Prizm with 120k miles on it. Just had the recommended 120k service done a month or two ago (local shop that has been reliable to me) and they commented on how mechanically solid my car was.
Thursday drove to work like normal. When it was time to leave, car wouldn't start. No dash lights, nothing at all when I turned the key. Got a ride, came back later that night and jumped it and it started right up (didn't wait at all, but I also didn't check it before hooking up the cables - it might have started without a jump). Radio had reset and so forth, but it was running.
Drove Friday, it was fine. Car sat all weekend. Monday morning, dead as could be again. No dash lights when I put the key in, nothing when I turned it. Maybe a single click, but nothing more (can't remember for sure).
Drove wife's car to work. Came home Monday afternoon and the car started right up with no problem. Was curious if the battery voltage was low or anything, so I turned the car off, hooked up my bluetooth OBD reader (generic ELM 327 off ebay), and tried to start. Car was dead. Unplugged the reader, still nothing.
Took the battery out and ran to the store, assuming a bad or weak battery. They tested and said it's completely fine. Went back home, hooked it back up, car started right up. So now I'm suspecting something's up with the ELM327... I just got it last week, a few days before this all started. Had it hooked up all week long and didn't unplug it till the first time the car wouldn't start. Didn't plug it back in till Monday afternoon's issues.
Could a flaky OBD reader cause these kinds of issues? Anything else I should be checking, or do you think I'm ok as long as I toss out that reader? When I was using the reader last week, it seemed to be reading everything fine and sending the data over to my phone. When the car was dead each time, it acted like the battery was completely disconnected - radio reset, NO lights, etc. Could something with the OBD reader mess up the computer and make it act like that, and then a little time lets the computer reset or something?
I've got a 2001 Chevy Prizm (160,000 miles) Starts right up-after I drive for awhile and turn the engine off. It won't restart at times - I have to wait anywhere between 5 and 20 minutes till the engine will start again. The engine cranks - so it's not the starter or the battery.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with check engine light showing PO420 and PO446 codes, what could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 V8 phaeton has been burning oil at what seems like an alarming rate. between services it uses 5-6 US quarts. at the last service (~45k miles) i mentioned this to the mechanic who took a look around and could not find any signs of leaks. since then i have put in 5-6 quarts of oil, one quart at a time when the check oil warning come on, usually after or during a long road trip and I just took it in for its 60k service ( since i was late on the 40k, and because i was living a stereotype by having my other car still in the shop, and yes its a jaguar, i decide to wait until 60k for its next service.) The service rep told me he had looked up the technical bulletin and it stated that the v8 phaetons can burn up to 0.2quarts/600miles, and this would be considered normal.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 passat when I drive it constantly to turn the engine off immediately because the oil is low, it even did this right after having the oil changed. I had the oil pumped changed at the dealer per their recommendation and even after that the car still gave me warnings about low oil every time I drive it. it's to the point now that I am afraid to drive the car. I had the car chipped at 1500 miles there is now 77,000 on it so I've basically had it chipped since new.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 BMW 330xi with 115,000k. Over the past few years I have to put oil in the car frequently. Four years ago it was every 1500-2000 miles, but It has now gotten to the point where it needs a quart of oil every 400 miles. There are no leaks under the car.
There is no smoke coming out of the back. The BMW dealer has no clue. They've replaced some gaskets and a few other things but nothing works. Another mechanic recommended changing the oil from the regular synthetic to a blend and driving the car at higher rpm's. That didn't work either.
Where is all this oil going? I am worried that something is really wrong and I'm going to loose the engine. Hoping I don't have to get rid of this car. It's in great shape...
I bought a new Audi A5 with a 2.0 liter turbo engine in August 2010. From the very beginning this car has been using in excess of a quart of oil every 850 miles. I have done some research and it appears that this happens to a small minority of their engines. Audi seems alternatively unwilling or unable to solve the problem. They have performed 3 extensive repairs replacing 2 different engine seals-one of them twice. The consumption has now actually worsened to about a quart every 800 miles. Now they are starting to tell me that my consumption is really not all that far from Audi's "minimal acceptable limit of a quart every 1,000 miles". Why does the oil consumption vary so widely in their new engines? Why can't they fix the problems? Why do they act like we are unreasonable to expect the same consumption of all the lucky A5 drivers?
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