Prizm - Chevrolet :: 1998 - ABS Light Comes On When Start The Car And Then Turns Off In Few Seconds
Oct 3, 2016
The ABS light on my Chevy Prizm 98 comes on when I start the car and then turns off in a few seconds. The last few days the light does not go off the entire time the car is running. The light does not flash it just stays on. It's never done this before. Does this mean I have an issue with my brakes? I replaced the front brakes last year but I'm fearing/dreading rear brake replacement. I have no signs that they need to be replaced but am wondering if the ABS light is telling me I'm reaching the rear brake replacement day.
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I own a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with ~150,000 miles. It has the three speed automatic transmission. It generally runs very well, but occasionally when pulling away from a stop it will hesitate for 2-5 seconds. I'll push the gas, but it will basically just creep forward slowly, as if I'd only taken my foot off the brake. If I keep my foot on the gas for a few seconds it will start to accelerate, although it seems to surge a little bit (although this could be because I probably end up pushing the gas harder than I normally would, hoping that it will go).
This problem was happening very intermittently, although its been happening more lately. Its been going on over the past year or so, but it would only happen maybe a few times a month. Over the past month, though its been happening more and more. Probably every other day for the past month. However, it doesn't happen at every stop. For example, if I leave for work (about a 15 min drive on city streets) it will usually make it through a few traffic lights before it happens. Then after 5-10 minutes driving I might pull up to a stoplight and it will hesitate pulling away. It might make it the rest of the way to work without incident, or it might do this at 1-2 more stoplights. On longer trips the car seems fine; it runs well on the highway and behaves normally otherwise.
Some maintenance history:-bought the car 5 years ago with 110k miles; it had just had a rebuilt engine installed-about 3 years ago I had the catalytic converter and O2 sensors replaced (got a check engine code)-about 2 years ago I had the in-tank fuel pump replaced-about 10 months ago I replaced the mass airflow sensor (the car was stalling on start-up and the check engine light was on - this fixed the stalling problem, but not the intermittent hesitation problem)-I have not had any transmission service done, but the car shifts smoothly. I checked the fluid and the levels seem fine and it doesn't smell burnt.
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I have a Chevy Prizm 1998 and I drive about 250 miles a week. Recently I started going through a quart of oil in 2 weeks. My engine sounds good. I am religious about changing my oil and filter every 3,000 miles and I check my oil every time I fill up my gas tank. There is no blue smoke and no oil spots on the garage. Could it possibly be a small leak that only occurs while I am driving or a am I dreaming?
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Check engine light emissions evap system code comes up when the system is scanned what could be problem? 1998 chevrolet prizm...
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I have a 1998 Chevrolet Prizm that will not fast idle when it is started in cold weather the first thing in morning. what could be the problem?
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I have a Chevrolet Prizm 1998 and the heat and cooling system only works on the highest setting which is actually the fan setting. When I have it on any of the other settings such as low or med nothing comes out, it doesn't work. I can hear it click on but nothing comes out. So when I'm driving depending on the weather I have the heat or cold air blasting out of the fan until it gets annoying and I turn it off. I've checked the fuses and they're good. I have not checked the relays because I'm not sure how to do that. I haven't taken it to a shop because I'm poor and don't have a trustworthy mechanic and it works just not on low or med. Should I have this looked at? I don't want to be causing any damage but it seems like it could be something simple.
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While driving my 1998 Chevy Prizm, my car lost the ability to accelerate but the car never lost power. I managed to pull over and let the car run for a bit before trying to accelerate again..the car only got up to 30 mph and wouldn't go any faster.....after a couple of hours the car run okay. What could be going on? I got new spark plugs, oil change, and an idle air control valve........
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I could not get my car to start yesterday so I had my friend jump it and we got it started. took my daughter to school this morning no problem car started right up ran fine 2 hours later car wouldn't start again but this time when we tried to jump it the horn was honking from the car alarm. disconnected the terminal took the battery to the shop had it tested battery is good cleaned the terminals with a wire brush hookef it back up and the horn startef honking again disconnected the battery to stop the Horn.here's where it gets really weird #1 my horn hasn't worked in months #2 I have never used the alarm didn't even know it was activated.I inherited the car last year from Grandma who did not like the keyless entry and had it removed she paid big money to Chevy to have it removed so I have no keyless entry to my car and from what I can find online that is the only way to stop this! its a 98 Chevy Prizm I only have 49 thousand original miles car is in beautiful shape have never had a problem until now. it has the original cassette deck no CD, it doesn't even have electric windows, what can I do.
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I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and have had issues with the air conditioner for a while (see my other post: [URL] ....).
Lately, if the car is stopped in traffic or at a red light, I cannot get any cold air. The compressor will turn on, but only 2-3 seconds, then it shuts back off. It will cycle like this, on and off, about every 10-15 seconds while I am stopped. Each time this happens, the RPMs jump and the car lurches forward a little as well. As soon as I start moving at a decent speed (20 mph or so), the air gets cold again.
The recommendation from my other thread was to replace the heater control module.
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with check engine light showing PO420 and PO446 codes, what could be the problem?
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I have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
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My 96 Town and Country won't start. It turns over and fires for about 1-2 seconds max. After that it only turns over, no fire. The key sign/symptom is that the odometer and PRNL do not light up. This is very sporadic. Sometimes months and months apart. I unhook the battery in an effort to reset the computer. Sometimes it works in 1/2 hr. Sometimes several hours. So I don't think it resets but I still do it anyway. I have replaced the computer but no luck. Could it somehow be the dash cluster?
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I have a 2000 Intrepid. I start the car and turn on the cruisecontrol. The light comes on for 10 seconds then turns off. I have to turn the car off and on to get the light to come on again. But it still goes out after exactly 10 seconds. If I push the brake pedal before the light goes out then it stays on until I release the brake. I am never able to set the speed even when the light is on. I assume some check is going on during those 10 seconds and something is failing and that's why the light goes off. What part of the cruise control system is failing and how do I test for this failure.
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My 98 corolla has set for a year plus and the serpentine belt is stuck and will not let the motor turn over fast enough to start. The battery is fully charged, the gas tank is full, the belt is in good shape. The car ran just fine the one year I owned it before sitting so long. I sprayed the belt with belt dressing. Could the alternator or something else be stuck? Should I remove the belt and then reinstall it?
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I have a 2007 GS350 AWD with about 110,000 miles right now. For almost the last year or so it has been burning off some oil. By the time its up for an oil change, it occasionally gives me the engine oil low light. It stays on between a few seconds to a minute and then turns off.
I've been telling this to the local Lexus dealership where i've had all my maintenance done, and they eventually did an oil consumption test. They said it was losing about 1.5 liters after 3,000 miles. They say that is within spec.
This issue came up several times while i was still in my 100,000 mile warranty, but they wouldn't do anything as it was in spec. I don't see how i should get a low engine light warning every 3-4k miles and have been pushing them to do something and cover under warranty since it has been documented as an issue before the warranty ran out. Lexus corporate asked for a compression test (which i had to pay for), the results are below:
Cyc#1: 205 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#2: 200 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#3: 190 dry; 215 wet
Cyc#4: 200 dry; 225 wet
Cyc#5: 205 dry; 210 wet
Cyc#6: 190 dry; 220 wet
After Lexus received the results they asked for, they still said: well the oil consumption is in spec so won't do anything.
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My carmy had run for 82000 miles now, and never had a problem til now. When I start the car, the "check engine light" turns on. When I go driving, after 2 seconds the car slip warning light turns on.
Both warning lights keep on blinking all the time. Here's a photo of the warning lights: [URL] .... I mean the photo at the row in the middle, with the car sign on it.
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It was running fine. tried to start and it just turns over. Also the fuel gauge doesn't move from an 1/8th of a tank. I took the filter line off, turned the key, and gas shoots out but the injectors don't spray at all. I poured some gas in the tbi and still just turns over without even trying to start.
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I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
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A few days ago I went to start my car and nothing happen I saw no dome light so I went and purchased a new battery. I replaced the battery and saw I had a dome light. I went to turn over the car and nothing happened. No sound no nothing, I did notice my radio (( Stock still )) was not able to be turned on..
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I have a 98 1.6L Honda Civic DX with 200,000 miles and standard transmission. It was running great. Then I was going up a steep hill and it lost all power plus no rev from gas peddle. after tapping the gas it started powering again. CE light was flashing and staid on. The next day the light went off but the problem kept happening and sometimes the light would come on. It started stalling in 1st gear sometimes(not having power when I first hit gas)but then it would catch and pick up. then when shifting into 2nd or third gear it would loose power again but then catch. I got codes read p0302 and p1399. problem got worse and worse. now car won't start. it turns over and almost sounds like it will, but doesn't, ignite. I also noticed there's too much oil in tank from last oil change. My mechanic has no idea.
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I have a very weird thing going on with my car. It all started about 3 month ago. The car will not accelerate and it left me broke down on the side of the road. It will start but it will not move fwd. So i took it to a mechanic, he told me it was the ignition coils, so he replaced them with some used ones that he got from the car junk yard. It worked for a like 2 months. About a month ago its stared doing it again! So i thought that since the mechanic replaced the ignition coils last time with some used one, i out to try some new ones. so i went ahead and bought some new one and the spark plugs and replaced them, $100 later it still doing it.
Mind you that this time around, the car will take a bit to accelerate once i get enough speed the car will only go 70mph, then the car starts to feel like its going shut off but it doesn't. Also it feels like the car is being held back, and every now n again will have a little burst of energy. I also see the gas consumption its a bit faster, i guess since I'm pressing the gas pedal all the in but can not go more than 70mph.
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