Pontiac - Grandam :: Gas Pedal Vibration During Acceleration Post Engine Work
Jun 25, 2014
The car is a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4 L V6, 223K miles.
I had a major coolant leak and my normal repair shop couldn't handle it due to lack of equipment. So to a local dealership I went. The following is the assessment and work performed. "Cylinder head gasket leaking coolant. 12.80 Pressure tested coolant system and found the rear bank cylinder head gasket leaking coolant down the front of the engine. Replaced both head gaskets as well as intake, front engine cover gasket, valve cover gaskets and upper plenum gasket required for repair. Topped with coolant and performed LOF. Cleaned engine compartment area and road tested. Verified condition corrected".
When driving the car off the lot after the repair, I nearly stopped and went back in to complain. The gas pedal was vibrating on acceleration and its never done that before. I figured I'd drive it around for a while and see if it shook out and it didn't. I did drive back to the dealer the same day and rode with the mechanic who agreed that the vibration is there but didn't realize it was new. He went step by step through the repair with me. All work was done from the top of the engine down so the transmission and CV joints were never touched. The only idea the mechanic had was there is a small crack in the shielding on the throttle cable along with rust. I'm tempted to replace this anyways from a safety standpoint but could this cracked housing/rusted cable be causing the vibration? During the course of the repair, this is the only part that was touched that is related to the throttle. The throttle itself is fine.
The vibration only occurs when accelerating from a complete stop. It evens out once a speed over 40 mph is reached. It does not seem to be dependent on the AC compressor running.
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My wife has a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, as seen above. The car recently started having issues, especially when cold, where the RPMs will rise when in gear but the car will not accelerate. It happened from 25 mph and lower while in a subdivision as well as around 45 mph on city streets. I have a feeling this is a transmission issue, but don't have much experience when it comes to transmissions.
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It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
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I recently had my rear engine mount replaced on my 2004 Acura TSX. It was originally identified by the original dealer as requiring replacement and when I took it to anther Mechanic he also verified this and during the replacement he showed me the original engine mount which had a definitive crack.
After installation the Mechanic indicated that the car would feel a little stiff for a while and would smooth out over time. What I found after the first couple of days is that the engine seems to have a significant vibration when I am in idle or after I brake. When the car is in motion there is still a vibration but it is not very noticeable. I just remember from prior feel of the vehicle. This vibration did not exist prior to replacing the rear engine mount.
Is this expected to be normal until I put miles on it. The Acura is a 2004 but only has 75,000 miles. I don't drive it very much but I am concerned that the vibration I feel when I brake may be creating additional damage.
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So, a couple weeks ago, while driving down the highway, my '99 Grand Am had the oil lamp come on, and the engine was running rough. I pulled over and stopped the car, and then went to try to start it, to no avail. The engine wouldn't crank. After getting it home via tow truck, I charged the battery as first aid.Now, with the charged battery, the engine will start, and run very roughly, as in shaking the entire engine bay. Further, the oil lamp is on now. After a minute of running like this, the engine dies off. Stepping on the gas expedites the stalling out. I've checked and filled the oil, and the coolant (which was low). My next guesses are fuel filter and timing belt.
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I have a '95 pontiac grand AM with about 208,000 miles on it. About a week ago, i noticed it was getting harder to start when the engine is cold. When the engine has warmed up, it starts up right away, however, the engine begins to sputter and sounds as if it is going to die. The engine still sputters while driving and the car begins to jolt back and forth. When I come to a stop, the car sounds as if its going to shut off. Today, I started the car and it was sputtering so I turned it off and then wasn't able to start it for about 40 mins. I let the car sit for about 20 mins and then tried it, started right up. What could be causing the sputtering and engine throbbing? What's wrong?
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT with 151,000 miles (I have had the car for 6,000). I recently just changed the oil with 5w-30 which is the 3rd oil change I have done and have used the same brand and viscosity. It seems the oil is a little overfilled this time (maybe 1/4-1/3 of an extra quart). I noticed a knocking coming from the engine (closer to bottom of engine than top) on a cold start. It sounds like a rock being knocked against a hard surface. I can only hear the knocking if I am outside of the car, if I am in the car I can't hear it at all. The knocking lasts for maybe 20-30 seconds. If I press the accelerator (when in park) the knocking goes away, and if I let off the accelerator then it comes back. I can't really test to see if the knocking persists while driving since I can't hear it from the cab.
I know I should do all the routine maintenance when getting a used car (spark plugs, etc), but I bought from a friend who put spark plugs on maybe 25,000 miles ago.
I read that maybe I should be using different viscosity of oil in the summer (even though the manual says 5w-30 all year, I live in North Central Nebraska)? Is the knocking maybe due to the slightly overfilled oil? Should I try to drain that excess out? Should I just go ahead and replace the spark plugs and wires as well?
I drive ~750 highway miles a month and hope I can get this car to last a few years. So far it seems pretty good, have only had to change the ECT sensor and thermostat on it, suspension bushings still look good. I just never heard this noise before and it kind of freaked me out. I probably would have never heard it but I just happen to start the car and needed to grab something from the garage.
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In my last thread about "eratic idle" it was suggested that it may be caused by water leaking into a cylinder. Apparently this is the case as the IAC is clean and functioning. Idle improves to normal after less then a minute after start-up. What should I expect the dealer to charge to repair this provided it just needs new head gaskets?
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I own a 2005 grand am se, (v6) this engine rattle has been going on for a while now (6 months+) the rattle really hasn't gotten any worse in that time, I uploaded a video to youtube as I'm kind of stumped as to what it could be, to me it almost sounds like something is lose..haha or maybe that's just wishful thinking, it would definitely be great if it weren't the engine itself making that noise.
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My wife has a 2003 Pontiac Grand am GT 3.4L V6. A few days ago my wife was out and tried to start the car and the service engine light came on and began to blink. (Prior to this the car was running well with no service engine light) The car was running very rough at this point so we shut the car off and I pulled the codes at witch four codes came up witch were: P0205, p0206, p0300, p0443. So I had the car towed to the shop and they said that they thought that it was the oxygen sensor but after that had been replaced they had concluded that the oxygen sensor was not the problem so they had placed the old one back in. Then they said that they restarted the car and it was running fine but then pulled it out of the shop and began to run rough again.
At this point they were thinking that there was a short so they checked the wiring from the ecm (?) back to the oxygen sensor and could not find any problems. And needless to say they started the car and it began to run fine again so they told me to come and pick it up and drive it for the weekend just to see if it was a lose connection that was possibly there. So needless to say once I picked it up the service engine light was still on but the engine sounded good so I figured I would drive the car home and maybe the light would shut off. Well upon taking off and getting a few miles down the road the engine started to idol at 2000 rmp when in park or neutral.
So I stopped and pulled the code and got P0443 again so while I had the scan tool connected I cleared the codes to see if the light would come back on with the same code or with multiple again. The service engine light stayed off. So the high idol continued for a few miles I also did try to restart the car and the problem did persist. About 5 more miles down the road the car started to overheat and the reservoir had overheated. So at this point the engine sounds good it is not running rough but is really high idol. The check engine light did not come on since I cleared the codes in that short drive but I do not want to drive it because of the overheating. I do know that the coolant level was good when we started the car.
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My car won't start and I'm trying to figure out why. What is going on. The kind of car I have:
2003 Pontiac Grand Am
2.2L, In-Line4, VIN(F) DOHC
Has about 160,000 on it
Issue I'm having:
Car turns but won't start
"Service Engine Soon" light is on
Tried to jump it (made sure to let it charge for awhile) to no avail
Was low on gas but was not empty -- we filled it up and it still won't turn
Specifically for this model, it is not the Security Bypass issue (where you reset it after 10 minutes)
Recent work history:
On 2/4/14, I took my car to the shop after the check engine light was blinking when I tried to go above 25mph:
Replaced Spark Plugs
Replaced Air Filter
Replaced Ignition Coil Pack
Replaced Spark Plug Boot (Coil to Plug)
Replaced Ignition Control Module
Replaced Fuel Filter
When I drove my car away, the "Check Engine Light" came on. Took it back, this is what they did:
Access computer for codes : "P0172 system to rich on bank 1"
They told me that there was a possible injector leaking down and recommended a fuel injector cleaning. They said I was ok to drive it for awhile and did not have to do it right that moment.
I did light driving on the car but left it in the burbs as I live in the city. When I moved five months later, I brought the car back to the city. I noticed my air conditioning was not working (will blow heat just fine but will not blow cold).
I changed my oil not long after bringing it to the city, in that same month. Besides the air conditioning, I haven't had any real issues and have done local driving through the city.
I took the car out on Friday, drove to Madison, and drove back the next day with no issues (300m trip). This morning we took the car out to the burbs to visit family (20m) -- now it won't start. What it could be?
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My check engine light started blinking on my 2000 grandam se last night and it was missing bad and now it wont start what is it.
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My 2003 Pontiac Grand Am often doesn't start in warm weather. The engine will crank but not start, but if I then leave the key in the run position for exactly ten minutes, the security system seems to calm down and I can switch it off then start the car (a kind tow driver taught me that trick). This doesn't happen in the winter in Pittsburgh, but might happen one start out of six in the summer.
I had the ignition cylinder replaced once, and it took care of the problem for about a year. After it came back, I was told to do exactly the same thing again. At first I decided to punish the dealer by spending another summer loafing in parking lots, but this year I can't take it any more. Should I replace it again? Should a dealer warrant the longevity of the repair?
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About a week ago I was driving my Pontiac 2003 Grand Am V6 and it began to violently shake and the "check engine light" came on and started blinking. I then immediately took it to the mechanic It has been with the mechanic for 6 days and they were unable to locate the problem. They called me today and I was told that I have no compression in one of the cylinders (I have done business with them before and felt comfortable in that I wasn't being taken advantage of). Also, is there any problems in the future with getting a cylinder replaced i.e. other parts of the engine that might correlate?
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Car: 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GTPEngine: 3.8L SuperchargedMileage: 94,300 miles
Issue : Usually after driving the car for a long period of time (approx 20 miles or more), Ill begin to hear a grinding coming from the front of the car. The grinding/ groaning can be felt in the gas pedal as well. Depending how hard I hit the gas the frequency increases. I am not sure if this is associated with the grinding, but i noticed that when I turn sharply and go easy on the gas and progressively add pressure the car will cut out until i cut straighten the wheel. Then all the power I requested is applied all at once.
What the locals think :
CV Shafts - Sears told me the first time i went to get them checked that my CV shaft boot was a little loose, suggested changing it. Then I went back two weeks later and they denied saying that and said my cv shafts were fine. (talk about confusing)
Wheel Bearings - Someone I know said my wheel bearing could be slipping or my traction control could be on its way out, so i replaced both front bearings.
Tune up - Someone suggested it could be mis-firing, with it coming up on 100,000 miles, i did a tune up. (plugs, wires, coil packs)
Transmission - Someone said the transmission could be going bad. So i did a flush and inspected the fluid, no shavings or any sign of extreme wear. (car shifts great too.)
Clogged Catalytic converter - the cat was clogged, two new 02 sensors and a new cat didn't even solve the issue I am describing, but it does have more power now.
Throttle Body - Someone said it could be a dirty throttle body....so i had that cleaned also.
And finally, some electric temperature sensor - someone said it wasn't getting the right fuel mixture, so i replaced the sensor to remedy that.
Fuel pressure was also tested to ensure the fuel pump was doing its job, everything checked out great
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I have a 2009 LX and I have been experiencing a vibration in the gas pedal on acceleration. Its not horrible, however it would be great if I could find the culprit and get it fixed. What was the cause. The LX has 96K
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Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I know there have been issues with the Electronic Throttle Control on these drive-by-wire trucks, particularly on the Super Duty trucks.
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Last night when I was driving home, I noticed that all of my "night lights" were off. The lights on the speedometer, gas gauge, gear shift, etc. did not seem to be working, but all of my system warning lights (Traction, Brake, etc) seemed to be fine. I tried to turn the car on and off a few times and also tried fiddling with the lights manually. Nothing seemed to be working.
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I have a 2000 grand am Gt with 3400 motor it started up just fine went to turn around in the drive way the dash lights came on where the ABS sensor is bad, but if u shut it off and started it back up they would go out so i shut it down and went to start it back up and all it does is click, so i thought it was the starter and replaced it, still only clicks. I called GM dealership they said more then likely it is the plastic piece the ignition switch goes in to so i just replaced it and does the same thing.
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This is on a 2004 Pontiac Grand AM.
The old GM ABS light problem. The lights were on a month ago and the left front hub was replaced, the light went out. They just came back on all of a sudden (coincided with the temperature dropping to 15F). The next day they were out. Then the next day they came back on. I couldn't get a code read with the basic scan tool.
Where should I start? I'm thinking of cleaning the speed sensor connectors and reseating with dialectic grease. Maybe they're dirty or a bit brittle due to age and the cold?
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with about 130k miles on it. For some reason my car has been dying lately. It did this a few times so the obvious thing was to buy a new battery- oct 2011. Everything was good for a couple months but I recently went on a trip for the weekend and when I came home the car was dead. I jumped it and everything was good until this week. I had a work conference and left wednesday at 8am. When I got home Friday at 5pm the car was dead again. I had an alternator test done before but could it be the alternator? I love my little car and would like to get a couple more years out of her!!!
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