Pontiac - Grandam :: 2004 Will Not Restart On Warm Or Hot Humid Days
Mar 31, 2014
2004 pontiac grand am, after driving and shutting off the car, it will not restart or stalls out while waiting at traffic lights. When I try to restart the car, all I get is clicking sounds, only does this on warm or hot humid days. The dealer told me to just hold down the gas pedal and crank the engine till it restarts. I have tried the turning on the key for a minute, wait, then turn the key back off, and then to restart, but that doesn't work either. If I wait for a good ten minutes, the car usually starts. When I turn on the key I do hear the fuel pump kick in. I have replaced the fuel regulator, ignition switch, keys, computer chip in the ignition system, battery, and starter- twice. I have heard that it could be a crankshaft sensor? No codes are showing up when this happens.
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I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand Am that won't start. It was working fine. Then one day, it half started and stalled and won't restart. It will crank over and there is fuel getting to the injectors. If I shoot in starter fluid, it will start for a second and die.
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My 2003 Pontiac Grand Am often doesn't start in warm weather. The engine will crank but not start, but if I then leave the key in the run position for exactly ten minutes, the security system seems to calm down and I can switch it off then start the car (a kind tow driver taught me that trick). This doesn't happen in the winter in Pittsburgh, but might happen one start out of six in the summer.
I had the ignition cylinder replaced once, and it took care of the problem for about a year. After it came back, I was told to do exactly the same thing again. At first I decided to punish the dealer by spending another summer loafing in parking lots, but this year I can't take it any more. Should I replace it again? Should a dealer warrant the longevity of the repair?
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This is on a 2004 Pontiac Grand AM.
The old GM ABS light problem. The lights were on a month ago and the left front hub was replaced, the light went out. They just came back on all of a sudden (coincided with the temperature dropping to 15F). The next day they were out. Then the next day they came back on. I couldn't get a code read with the basic scan tool.
Where should I start? I'm thinking of cleaning the speed sensor connectors and reseating with dialectic grease. Maybe they're dirty or a bit brittle due to age and the cold?
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with about 130k miles on it. For some reason my car has been dying lately. It did this a few times so the obvious thing was to buy a new battery- oct 2011. Everything was good for a couple months but I recently went on a trip for the weekend and when I came home the car was dead. I jumped it and everything was good until this week. I had a work conference and left wednesday at 8am. When I got home Friday at 5pm the car was dead again. I had an alternator test done before but could it be the alternator? I love my little car and would like to get a couple more years out of her!!!
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Have a 2004 Grand am that was having some problems starting:
1) The last 10 times it would start cold, but it would take about 5-10 seconds of turnover before actually starting.
2) After it started, it would start fine the rest of the day.
Now it will not start at all. Today is the coldest day of the year so far... 43 degrees. It tries to turn over. The security light came on once, but did not come on again (i know that's a common problem). (note: I have not seen it in person, but will later today). Either fuel or spark.
My thought: either fuel pump, fuel pump relay, sensor, wires/plugs, etc.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with a 3.4L engine. When I start my car after it has been sitting for a while, especially in the morning, the engine shutters making the car shake when it is put into Reverse and Drive. Plus a horrible gas smell come from the hood and into the heating vents. So to alleviate the shaking I let the car run for several minutes which in turn makes the gas smell worse. The smell continues to get worse when the car is stopped at a alight or stop sign. to eventually go away as the car heats up. The check engine light blinks with the shaking then disappears but eventually stayed on with a cylinder misfire code. I took it to a shop who told me that was the head gaskets.
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I have a 2004 Grand Am and a month or so ago, I started it up and all the dashboard functions failed. RPM, speedometer, odometer, fuel, temp all stopped working. The dials read zero and the odo did readout but did not advance. Some of the idiot lights also came on. The radio is also dead and is either totally blank or reads "LOC", but the air blows fine. Also the key fob will not lock/unlock and neither will the door controls lock the doors but the windows work. It was fine the next day. Now it has returned and has lasted 2 days so far.
Full disclosure: I did replace the PCM in December because something in the Passlock system was failing and not letting me start the car. The replacement PCM is an exact replacement that has had the Passlock code commented out. There have been zero problems with the PCM since then.
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I own a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am V6... recently it has developed a rough idle - kind of like the car is hiccuping - and it hesitates when I accelerate from a stop. Now, it doesn't have issues changing gears so I'm not inclined to believe its a transmission issue...thought it might be the fuel filter, but I changed it and that did nothing.. I'm not getting a check engine light, which is frustrating because if I try to pull the codes it won't throw me any... so it's a guessing game now. I've gotten mixed reviews - anything from a bad catalytic converter to a faulty O2 sensor or idle air controller or a bad head gasket.. but my exhaust is completely clean...others say maybe its bad spark plug wires or other electrical issue (which is a whole other ball game) or possibly bad fuel injectors causing a misfire?
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2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
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I have A 2004 Pontiac grand am and am trying to install a non factory stereo. The previous owner cut the adapter wires to the original radio and had them taped together so I had to wire the new CD player directly to my car and run an ACC wire to the fuse box. Well now after I have done this my blinkers don't work nor do my wipers and my car won't start.
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I will try my best to describe the problem:When the car sits for quite a few hours it basically will try to fire up , but can take 4,5,6 seconds before it will actually start. It is a fast turn over just as if your car was going to start normally, but it just takes time. This is not a slow turn over as in a battery problem, or a very cold weather thick oil problem.After the car starts the initial time, you can turn it off and start it and it fires right up.
When I turn the key to the on position, I can hear the Fuel Pump. I have tried doing this a few times in a row, but it doesn't work for the initial start.
This has been going on for about 8 months, and I have basically ignored the problem. The last few starts the same issue persisted except instead of firing up after 4,5,6 seconds it just shuts off. After this I turn the key over and it still fires right up.
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Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
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My car has had issues with the "low coolant" light coming on for over a year. No one could ever find a leak, the coolant level was always pretty good, and I never had a puddle.
Recently, my mechanic suspected it was the heater core. Since I earn early childhood teacher wages, I couldn't afford to have it fixed. As a temporary solution, he bypassed the heater core in order to buy me some time. Now, I have no heat or defrost. But also, the leak has gone out of control! I have to put coolant in daily, and I always have a puddle under my car when I am leaving work at the end of the day.
My car's newest trick is smoke, coming from under the hood, and the fresh smell of burning coolant. However, temperature is fine, at least that's what the gauge says.
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I've got a 2004 wagon and occasionally, when it's warmed up, if I shut it off it's hard to start again. When I turn the key it fires up, but when I release the starter it dies, like I've shut the car off. Giving it throttle makes no difference. I have to do this several times, and then it keeps running. Never does it cold. No codes.
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This weekend was a nice high 80's low 90's. My AC is usually ice cold. However now that the weather hit that high, when we are in stop-and-go traffic, the AC starts blowing warm humid air. I do see the temperature need creep a bit higher than the normal range.
Once we start driving, after a few minutes, the climbs back down and the cold AC returns. Turning the fan speed down, or turning the compressor off, then on again, seems to work.
What could be causing this? A friend said he has this issue with his car claiming the engine is the issue, not being powerful enough to keep the compressor running right, is that possible?
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I have a 91 Mitsubishi gto TT. I love my car and i was really hoping to repaint it soon but this problem is becoming more apparent. My car runs fine for the first 15 minutes, runs like a beauty! but then once it is warmed up it starts to struggle. I cant accelerate hard because it hesitates alot. The problem im having is pin pointing the problem. Ive searched a lot of stuff on the web and some people have similar problems.
Could it be bad spark plugs and wires causing some cylinders not to run properly? If so then why does does it run fine for the first 10-15 minutes?
I'll probably have my plugs and wires changed to see if that changes anything.
I just dont understand why my car accelerates great when cold but when hot starts to run sluggish.
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Recently when I drive for a while in traffic (stop and go) and then park my car for a quick errand and try to restart it won't start. This has only happened on extremely hot days ( over 90 degrees). I replaced the battery after the first time which was in April. It is now June and its happened 2 times in 2 weeks again. I have been able to start it after letting it sit for over an hour or with a jump. I'm getting nervous to run errands and the weather isn't getting any cooler.
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I just bought a 2000 f250 diesel truck and am having problems with the ac. When I first turn on the ac it blows very cold and works perfectly but after about 5 or 10 minutes it will start blowing warm and slightly humid air for probably around 5 or 10 minutes and then suddenly the very cold air will come back. This cycle repeats over and over again and I'm not sure what is wrong.
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Last night when I was driving home, I noticed that all of my "night lights" were off. The lights on the speedometer, gas gauge, gear shift, etc. did not seem to be working, but all of my system warning lights (Traction, Brake, etc) seemed to be fine. I tried to turn the car on and off a few times and also tried fiddling with the lights manually. Nothing seemed to be working.
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I have a 2000 grand am Gt with 3400 motor it started up just fine went to turn around in the drive way the dash lights came on where the ABS sensor is bad, but if u shut it off and started it back up they would go out so i shut it down and went to start it back up and all it does is click, so i thought it was the starter and replaced it, still only clicks. I called GM dealership they said more then likely it is the plastic piece the ignition switch goes in to so i just replaced it and does the same thing.
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