Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
My car has had issues with the "low coolant" light coming on for over a year. No one could ever find a leak, the coolant level was always pretty good, and I never had a puddle.
Recently, my mechanic suspected it was the heater core. Since I earn early childhood teacher wages, I couldn't afford to have it fixed. As a temporary solution, he bypassed the heater core in order to buy me some time. Now, I have no heat or defrost. But also, the leak has gone out of control! I have to put coolant in daily, and I always have a puddle under my car when I am leaving work at the end of the day.
My car's newest trick is smoke, coming from under the hood, and the fresh smell of burning coolant. However, temperature is fine, at least that's what the gauge says.
I have had this car for sum yrs never had any problem a couple months back while driving it would just shut off. Well come to find out my ign fuse would be blowing. I would replace it and it would start up and run just fine. Since then my daughter owns the car and it happened again and she replaced the fuse and it started up fine but while out of town it just shut off and now even if you replace the fuse it just blows. Just as you turn the key, it blows. So i did sum research and replaced the ignition switch. Tryed to start it and it still blows so im at my wits end. If I knew what every component that fuse ran , i could figure it out by process of elimination. I have the Chilton book but i still can't seem to find what all components that one ign fuse runs. It is a 94 grand am 3.1 v6....
View 7 RepliesMy granddaughter's 1999 Pontiac Grand Am is overheating & blowing the antifreeze. Radiator was checked out OK, engine was replaced with 69000 miles, and check out OK - still overheating.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 pontiac grand am that sometimes won't start and lately it is cutting out when I am stopped and idling at stop lights/signs. And today it just died when I was driving, it started right back up, then died again about three times, then it seemed to be fine, I drove it for about 2 miles and it just died and won't restart. We have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition switch, fuel relay fuse twice, air filter, and some sort of module.
View 5 RepliesFor months now, my 99 Grand Am,just over 100k, has been flashing "low coolant" light and chiming - only when stopped at red lights (idling), and then as soon as I put my foot back on the accelerator it stops and turns off. This doesnt happen at every red light, or everytime I drive the car - but often enough that its concerned me. At first I immediately checked the coolant & took it to be checked for a leak...apparently everything looked fine and it wasnt low on coolant.
The second time (took in for tune up) I mentioned it again and they claim nothing is wrong but said they cleaned/checked electric connectors in case it was due to faulty misfiring. Seemed okay for awhile, but now light has been flashing again. Im also not sure if its related, but Ive been noticing a tendency for the car to sometimes idle very rough as well. At one red light the car starting rocking/jerking - only to stop once I started driving again. Other than these problems when idling, the car runs like a dream. Where to look for this problem or what I should be watching for?
The issue is intermittent. Sometimes when I turn on the ignition, the DIC does not light up. There is a delay of two to three seconds and then everything on the DIC works and the Service Vehicle Soon (SVS) light comes on. The HVAC console will not work during all of this. Rear defroster and AC button do not work. Day-Time running lights, head lights, high beams, radio, windshield wipers all work. I do feel hot air coming through the vents, but not fan driven. Replaced ignition and computer in July 2011 with GM dealer flashing the computer. New battery December 2012. I have had it in to a mechanic but they were not able to get a code from the computer re: SVS light. Low coolant light now coming on in the AM (cold mornings), but turning off. Checked coolant and it is full.
View 1 RepliesI have an issue with the air conditioner of my prius. It just works while I am driving, but it does not work when I stop for a short while, such as waiting for signal. The fan is working fine. I visited a dealer and they told me the gas is leaking... but, they are wrong. I cannot believe them. The gas is fine and there is no leak and no problem exists at any other parts. Need to know about it? Should I replace the compressor?
View 3 RepliesThis is on a 2004 Pontiac Grand AM.
The old GM ABS light problem. The lights were on a month ago and the left front hub was replaced, the light went out. They just came back on all of a sudden (coincided with the temperature dropping to 15F). The next day they were out. Then the next day they came back on. I couldn't get a code read with the basic scan tool.
Where should I start? I'm thinking of cleaning the speed sensor connectors and reseating with dialectic grease. Maybe they're dirty or a bit brittle due to age and the cold?
I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with about 130k miles on it. For some reason my car has been dying lately. It did this a few times so the obvious thing was to buy a new battery- oct 2011. Everything was good for a couple months but I recently went on a trip for the weekend and when I came home the car was dead. I jumped it and everything was good until this week. I had a work conference and left wednesday at 8am. When I got home Friday at 5pm the car was dead again. I had an alternator test done before but could it be the alternator? I love my little car and would like to get a couple more years out of her!!!
View 7 RepliesHave a 2004 Grand am that was having some problems starting:
1) The last 10 times it would start cold, but it would take about 5-10 seconds of turnover before actually starting.
2) After it started, it would start fine the rest of the day.
Now it will not start at all. Today is the coldest day of the year so far... 43 degrees. It tries to turn over. The security light came on once, but did not come on again (i know that's a common problem). (note: I have not seen it in person, but will later today). Either fuel or spark.
My thought: either fuel pump, fuel pump relay, sensor, wires/plugs, etc.
I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with a 3.4L engine. When I start my car after it has been sitting for a while, especially in the morning, the engine shutters making the car shake when it is put into Reverse and Drive. Plus a horrible gas smell come from the hood and into the heating vents. So to alleviate the shaking I let the car run for several minutes which in turn makes the gas smell worse. The smell continues to get worse when the car is stopped at a alight or stop sign. to eventually go away as the car heats up. The check engine light blinks with the shaking then disappears but eventually stayed on with a cylinder misfire code. I took it to a shop who told me that was the head gaskets.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 Grand Am and a month or so ago, I started it up and all the dashboard functions failed. RPM, speedometer, odometer, fuel, temp all stopped working. The dials read zero and the odo did readout but did not advance. Some of the idiot lights also came on. The radio is also dead and is either totally blank or reads "LOC", but the air blows fine. Also the key fob will not lock/unlock and neither will the door controls lock the doors but the windows work. It was fine the next day. Now it has returned and has lasted 2 days so far.
Full disclosure: I did replace the PCM in December because something in the Passlock system was failing and not letting me start the car. The replacement PCM is an exact replacement that has had the Passlock code commented out. There have been zero problems with the PCM since then.
I own a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am V6... recently it has developed a rough idle - kind of like the car is hiccuping - and it hesitates when I accelerate from a stop. Now, it doesn't have issues changing gears so I'm not inclined to believe its a transmission issue...thought it might be the fuel filter, but I changed it and that did nothing.. I'm not getting a check engine light, which is frustrating because if I try to pull the codes it won't throw me any... so it's a guessing game now. I've gotten mixed reviews - anything from a bad catalytic converter to a faulty O2 sensor or idle air controller or a bad head gasket.. but my exhaust is completely clean...others say maybe its bad spark plug wires or other electrical issue (which is a whole other ball game) or possibly bad fuel injectors causing a misfire?
View 14 Replies2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour. I did a bunch of tests without first disconnecting the battery: The fuel bar is pressurizing properly, the crankshaft position sensor works, the ignition control module has power, the plugs and wires are in good condition and have the right resistance. The coils are fine.
I did an OBD-II scan as well, no codes. However, unless I go through the disconnect-wait-reconnect procedure, there appears to be only a weak spark. I don't think it's the ignition security feature. There's no security light, performing a security reset does not fix anything, and the car starts repeatedly and reliably as long as the block is hot. I was wondering if it might be a failing sensor that has a thermal dependence? Should I look at the powertrain control module? The ignition control module?
I have A 2004 Pontiac grand am and am trying to install a non factory stereo. The previous owner cut the adapter wires to the original radio and had them taped together so I had to wire the new CD player directly to my car and run an ACC wire to the fuse box. Well now after I have done this my blinkers don't work nor do my wipers and my car won't start.
View 17 Replies2004 pontiac grand am, after driving and shutting off the car, it will not restart or stalls out while waiting at traffic lights. When I try to restart the car, all I get is clicking sounds, only does this on warm or hot humid days. The dealer told me to just hold down the gas pedal and crank the engine till it restarts. I have tried the turning on the key for a minute, wait, then turn the key back off, and then to restart, but that doesn't work either. If I wait for a good ten minutes, the car usually starts. When I turn on the key I do hear the fuel pump kick in. I have replaced the fuel regulator, ignition switch, keys, computer chip in the ignition system, battery, and starter- twice. I have heard that it could be a crankshaft sensor? No codes are showing up when this happens.
View 16 RepliesI will try my best to describe the problem:When the car sits for quite a few hours it basically will try to fire up , but can take 4,5,6 seconds before it will actually start. It is a fast turn over just as if your car was going to start normally, but it just takes time. This is not a slow turn over as in a battery problem, or a very cold weather thick oil problem.After the car starts the initial time, you can turn it off and start it and it fires right up.
When I turn the key to the on position, I can hear the Fuel Pump. I have tried doing this a few times in a row, but it doesn't work for the initial start.
This has been going on for about 8 months, and I have basically ignored the problem. The last few starts the same issue persisted except instead of firing up after 4,5,6 seconds it just shuts off. After this I turn the key over and it still fires right up.
The A/c stopped blowing cold on my 06 Passat 2.0t. I checked the pressures on the low side of the system and it was 100 psi with a cold engine and 130 when hot. Obviously this is too much. It seems as if the compressor is always engaged even when the a/c is off (every part of the a/c pulley is always spinning the little nut sticking out of the center of the pulley spins as well not but im not sure if that's how it is when the compressor isn't engaged).
View 17 RepliesI have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
99 Jetta VR6... 190k
So the heat doesn't really work on my car- and its getting cold outside.
I read the DIY on fixing the resistor pack, but there is a lot of hooptiness to my ride, (not sure if that's the issue).
All the fan control speeds work, but the most I ever get is vaguely warm air- it never gets fully hot.
The temperature gauge does not work most of the time- it does occasionally (but randomly) work as expected.
The defrost doesn't work either due to an issue with the AC (it keeps blowing the fuse for the AC compressor- like, right away)
There's a multitude of issues happening here I know, but need to narrow down the suspects for the heat, that would be very useful.