Pontiac - Grandam :: 2003 - Shaking / Shuddering Consistently - Ignition Coil?
Nov 6, 2011
My grand am began shaking (shuddering) consistently yesterday morning and I ran a diagnostic reading on the car. It told me that there was a misfire. I replaced the spark plugs and still no change. This car has been a nightmare to do maintenance work on since everything is either within a case or impossible to access on a regular car jack - so what could be causing this reaction in the car? Is it definitely the ignition coil? I would just hate to attempt to replace that (not to mention the fact that it's $100+ for the part) if I didn't survey other options. 2003 Pontiac Grand Am 2.2....
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am it will start once but after that if you turn off ignition it will not start again until it has sat for a long time.
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I have a '95 Pontiac Grand AM. The Heater Coil/Core is leaking onto the passenger side floor. Bad Core. In addition, the car keeps over heating intermittently, whether it's stopped at a light or driving over 35mph out on the road. The gauge goes into the red, but then after a minute it goes back down. We replaced the Thermostat thinking that it was sticking. Drove it around a good 10 mile run. Didn't over heat. Next day, it over heats. Just took it to the garage where they ran it and did compression check.
For over 4 hours they tried to get it to overheat. It wouldn't. They replaced an old radiator cap. They said if that doesn't work, it could be the head gasket (no sign of any fluids mixing - oil cap is clean. No milky residue) or replace the thermostat, which we said we already did. Drove it 2 miles. Started to get hot again. Going to bypass the core to see if this might be the problem. Could there be air bubble from bad core? Not sure if this is the right direction, but I am at a total loss as to what it could be. Pump is running. Radiator fan running.
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Need to diagnose:
- Truck idles a little rough sounds a little like " puff , puff ", when put in reverse - still sounds the same ( looping hesitation )
- When accelerating feels pretty good until about 40-45 then it starts to shake , shudder and loose power. Shakes and shudder pretty violently.
Did a full ATF fluid service - no improvement
Aside from that it does not seem to have any other shifting issues at all. Problem is intermittent. Throughout the day it may run fine, and then at another point in the day it runs like poop when hitting 45+.
Could it be a bad Ignition Coil Pack ? Car has ZERO codes appearing - would either TC or COP set one off ?
Here is a pic of the one COP that I found does have a crack on the top ( passenger side ) - not sure if that could cause the truck to act the way it does.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with a 3.4L engine. When I start my car after it has been sitting for a while, especially in the morning, the engine shutters making the car shake when it is put into Reverse and Drive. Plus a horrible gas smell come from the hood and into the heating vents. So to alleviate the shaking I let the car run for several minutes which in turn makes the gas smell worse. The smell continues to get worse when the car is stopped at a alight or stop sign. to eventually go away as the car heats up. The check engine light blinks with the shaking then disappears but eventually stayed on with a cylinder misfire code. I took it to a shop who told me that was the head gaskets.
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I have had this car for sum yrs never had any problem a couple months back while driving it would just shut off. Well come to find out my ign fuse would be blowing. I would replace it and it would start up and run just fine. Since then my daughter owns the car and it happened again and she replaced the fuse and it started up fine but while out of town it just shut off and now even if you replace the fuse it just blows. Just as you turn the key, it blows. So i did sum research and replaced the ignition switch. Tryed to start it and it still blows so im at my wits end. If I knew what every component that fuse ran , i could figure it out by process of elimination. I have the Chilton book but i still can't seem to find what all components that one ign fuse runs. It is a 94 grand am 3.1 v6....
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About a week ago I was driving my Pontiac 2003 Grand Am V6 and it began to violently shake and the "check engine light" came on and started blinking. I then immediately took it to the mechanic It has been with the mechanic for 6 days and they were unable to locate the problem. They called me today and I was told that I have no compression in one of the cylinders (I have done business with them before and felt comfortable in that I wasn't being taken advantage of). Also, is there any problems in the future with getting a cylinder replaced i.e. other parts of the engine that might correlate?
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I replaced the ignition key lock cylinder on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE. I performed the re-learn process by cranking the engine over, then releasing to the ON position for about 9 minutes. During the 9 minutes the SECURITY light blinked the whole time, then at the end it went solid for a few seconds, then off. On the next cranking cycle I was able to start the engine and thought all was good. But now when I open the door the car beeps as if the key is left in the ignition and the automatic locks are disabled with the door opened.What is the problem and how do I fix it?
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2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT, 3.4L V6...It only starts if the battery has been disconnected for at least an hour and then is immediately reconnected prior to use. Once the block is hot, however, it starts flawlessly and repeatedly every time. When the block cools, it won't start again unless I disconnect the battery and wait an hour.
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2003 Grandam turn signal flashes fast on drivers' side...
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2003 Pontiac grand am 3.4 car cranks has great fuel pressure and spark will not start when ambient temp under 75 deg without hot shot then fine the rest of day..have replaced fuel pump map sensor cam sensor air temp sensor.
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4L V6. The engine runs perfectly as long as it is kept hot. If allowed to cool completely it will crank and crank all day but never fire. However, if I disconnect the battery for at least 30 minutes and reconnect it, it fires right up every time. I have good fuel pressure when it will not fire, but it seems as if the injectors will not fire. Suspecting the injection driver, I replaced the ECM/PCM. The exact same problem still exists.
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My wife has a 2003 Pontiac Grand am GT 3.4L V6. A few days ago my wife was out and tried to start the car and the service engine light came on and began to blink. (Prior to this the car was running well with no service engine light) The car was running very rough at this point so we shut the car off and I pulled the codes at witch four codes came up witch were: P0205, p0206, p0300, p0443. So I had the car towed to the shop and they said that they thought that it was the oxygen sensor but after that had been replaced they had concluded that the oxygen sensor was not the problem so they had placed the old one back in. Then they said that they restarted the car and it was running fine but then pulled it out of the shop and began to run rough again.
At this point they were thinking that there was a short so they checked the wiring from the ecm (?) back to the oxygen sensor and could not find any problems. And needless to say they started the car and it began to run fine again so they told me to come and pick it up and drive it for the weekend just to see if it was a lose connection that was possibly there. So needless to say once I picked it up the service engine light was still on but the engine sounded good so I figured I would drive the car home and maybe the light would shut off. Well upon taking off and getting a few miles down the road the engine started to idol at 2000 rmp when in park or neutral.
So I stopped and pulled the code and got P0443 again so while I had the scan tool connected I cleared the codes to see if the light would come back on with the same code or with multiple again. The service engine light stayed off. So the high idol continued for a few miles I also did try to restart the car and the problem did persist. About 5 more miles down the road the car started to overheat and the reservoir had overheated. So at this point the engine sounds good it is not running rough but is really high idol. The check engine light did not come on since I cleared the codes in that short drive but I do not want to drive it because of the overheating. I do know that the coolant level was good when we started the car.
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My car won't start and I'm trying to figure out why. What is going on. The kind of car I have:
2003 Pontiac Grand Am
2.2L, In-Line4, VIN(F) DOHC
Has about 160,000 on it
Issue I'm having:
Car turns but won't start
"Service Engine Soon" light is on
Tried to jump it (made sure to let it charge for awhile) to no avail
Was low on gas but was not empty -- we filled it up and it still won't turn
Specifically for this model, it is not the Security Bypass issue (where you reset it after 10 minutes)
Recent work history:
On 2/4/14, I took my car to the shop after the check engine light was blinking when I tried to go above 25mph:
Replaced Spark Plugs
Replaced Air Filter
Replaced Ignition Coil Pack
Replaced Spark Plug Boot (Coil to Plug)
Replaced Ignition Control Module
Replaced Fuel Filter
When I drove my car away, the "Check Engine Light" came on. Took it back, this is what they did:
Access computer for codes : "P0172 system to rich on bank 1"
They told me that there was a possible injector leaking down and recommended a fuel injector cleaning. They said I was ok to drive it for awhile and did not have to do it right that moment.
I did light driving on the car but left it in the burbs as I live in the city. When I moved five months later, I brought the car back to the city. I noticed my air conditioning was not working (will blow heat just fine but will not blow cold).
I changed my oil not long after bringing it to the city, in that same month. Besides the air conditioning, I haven't had any real issues and have done local driving through the city.
I took the car out on Friday, drove to Madison, and drove back the next day with no issues (300m trip). This morning we took the car out to the burbs to visit family (20m) -- now it won't start. What it could be?
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My 2003 Pontiac Grand Am often doesn't start in warm weather. The engine will crank but not start, but if I then leave the key in the run position for exactly ten minutes, the security system seems to calm down and I can switch it off then start the car (a kind tow driver taught me that trick). This doesn't happen in the winter in Pittsburgh, but might happen one start out of six in the summer.
I had the ignition cylinder replaced once, and it took care of the problem for about a year. After it came back, I was told to do exactly the same thing again. At first I decided to punish the dealer by spending another summer loafing in parking lots, but this year I can't take it any more. Should I replace it again? Should a dealer warrant the longevity of the repair?
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Found out today that my third ignition coil is bad, it's a Honda civic 03' my question is, do I have to buy a new ignition coil. I had a clerk tell me I could switch the coils and it would run fine? Is this right? could I just switch the ignition coil with another ignition coil? This doesn't sound right. Well If I do buy new one which would be the third ignition coil? is it counted from left to right or right to left? Are there any telltale signs of a bad ignition coil on sight?
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I have a 2003 passat 1.8 and I just started having a misfiring problem. I googled it and ran across a 2003 press release that VW had recalled them. I am going to call tomorrow, but I did a little testing myself. Probably not the best thing to do, but this is what I did. I had my wife start the car and I pulled off the coils until I hit the one that didn't make the car shake any more than it already was. It is the second one from the front. I pulled the spark plug out. It is the original, but didn't look too bad.
My question is: How do you test the ignition coil to see if it is faulty or if it could be the distributor? The coil that attaches to the plug looks a little burnt around the rim where it connects to the plug. Its not an expensive part, but I don't want to go buying another one just to find out it is the main distributor or something else...
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Can a problem elsewhere in the system cause ignition coils to go bad? I have an '03 Mazda 6s, 147k miles, owned it since new (Dec '02). 3 1/2 ~ 4 years ago, over a period of 6 months I had to replace 4 of the 6 coils. A month ago, one of the replaced coils went bad so I had all three rear bank coils replaced (cheaper to do all three at once rather than one at at a time since half the engine needs to be disassembled to get at them). This week, I started to get the initial symptom of a coil going bad on me: Occasional stuttering in the engine.
This issue always starts when it's wet outside. The first few times it started when going through a car wash, this last time was right after Super Storm Sandy dumped a lot of rain (I am not in one of the flooded areas, NH just got a lot of rain).
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1999 Ford F-150 4WD
5.4L Triton V8
114k miles
So my check engine light came on a few days ago and I went down to Autozone to check it out with the code reader. The result was "Cylinder 4 Misfire" (the guy said that was as far as the diagnosis would go...) and since I just replaced the spark plugs under 1,000 miles ago, I figured it must be the ignition coil (I replaced coils 1, 7 and 8 about 100 miles ago too).
When I removed the coil, the outside was fully covered in rust, the spring had a tiny bit of rust, and it smelled a little like gasoline. After replacing the coil, the check engine light went off, however the engine still runs rough and doesn't sound much different than before.
What the issue might be? Would a compression test or a better code reader diagnosis give me more insight? I live in Louisiana where we get a decent amount of rain and humidity, so I'm worried there might be a moisture issue down around the spark plug. Also, the exhaust seems hotter than normal and the engine gets pretty hot in a short amount of time.
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I was replacing my spark plugs and one screw holding the ignition coil stripped while another snapped. I have change 3 plugs (the easy one) and could have more problems. I spent half a day trying to drill the screws out to no avail and also noticed the intake manifold is plastic. I was thinking of swapping it out. This would alleviate the broken screw problem and make pulling the plugs easier. It also looks like it's just 8 bolts. Would swapping a new intake manifold in add any performance gains? Is there a manifold others recommend?
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I've had a noise coming from my rear end since I got the car and usually it stayed consistently bad. A year or more ago (I barely ever drive this car) I had the fluid changed in the differential, and that made the noise significantly better barely noticeable at all. Now, however, the noise is back and seemingly worse than ever. It's a low pitched grumbling noise almost a grinding and really only does it when I reverse or am turning one way or the other. Since this is such a high performance car, I'm worried the rear end is just going to blow out on me one day. What might be going on and what's causing the noise? Also, there's no play In the drive shaft for it to be a U-joint or anything.
2005 Pontiac GTO with a 6.0 L LS2 engine and a T-56 6 speed manual transmission.....
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