Pontiac - Grandam :: 2000 3.4 V6 - No Acceleration And High RPMs
Nov 18, 2012
My wife has a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, as seen above. The car recently started having issues, especially when cold, where the RPMs will rise when in gear but the car will not accelerate. It happened from 25 mph and lower while in a subdivision as well as around 45 mph on city streets. I have a feeling this is a transmission issue, but don't have much experience when it comes to transmissions.
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The car is a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4 L V6, 223K miles.
I had a major coolant leak and my normal repair shop couldn't handle it due to lack of equipment. So to a local dealership I went. The following is the assessment and work performed. "Cylinder head gasket leaking coolant. 12.80 Pressure tested coolant system and found the rear bank cylinder head gasket leaking coolant down the front of the engine. Replaced both head gaskets as well as intake, front engine cover gasket, valve cover gaskets and upper plenum gasket required for repair. Topped with coolant and performed LOF. Cleaned engine compartment area and road tested. Verified condition corrected".
When driving the car off the lot after the repair, I nearly stopped and went back in to complain. The gas pedal was vibrating on acceleration and its never done that before. I figured I'd drive it around for a while and see if it shook out and it didn't. I did drive back to the dealer the same day and rode with the mechanic who agreed that the vibration is there but didn't realize it was new. He went step by step through the repair with me. All work was done from the top of the engine down so the transmission and CV joints were never touched. The only idea the mechanic had was there is a small crack in the shielding on the throttle cable along with rust. I'm tempted to replace this anyways from a safety standpoint but could this cracked housing/rusted cable be causing the vibration? During the course of the repair, this is the only part that was touched that is related to the throttle. The throttle itself is fine.
The vibration only occurs when accelerating from a complete stop. It evens out once a speed over 40 mph is reached. It does not seem to be dependent on the AC compressor running.
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I have a 2000 grand am Gt with 3400 motor it started up just fine went to turn around in the drive way the dash lights came on where the ABS sensor is bad, but if u shut it off and started it back up they would go out so i shut it down and went to start it back up and all it does is click, so i thought it was the starter and replaced it, still only clicks. I called GM dealership they said more then likely it is the plastic piece the ignition switch goes in to so i just replaced it and does the same thing.
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My car is idling high while driving and when coming to a stop. I do not have a rpm meter so i don't know what my rpms are reading. What could be the problem?
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I m having trouble figuring out why the radiator fans wont turn on, Even when the ac is turned on it still doesn't turn on, I changed the coolant temp senser. still nothing, i also ran a whire from the battery to the fan and they both turned on. I also stitched around relays and checked fused still nothing. 2000 pontiac grand am 2.4L engine 4dr auto trans.
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I have just replaced an almost new oxygen sensor on my 2000 Grand Am. After about 40 miles, the check engine light came back on again. I have not had a chance to check it, but I assume it is the oxygen sensor again. What am I missing?
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My wife's 2000 grand am 2.4L engine is acting really funny. this is the first problem we've had with it. i was driving it to pick up my kids from school. on the way i stopped and got some gas from the marathon then drove about 5minutes and it started running really ruff lose of power wouldn't go above 30mph seemed like the transmission took longer to shifter to.
i made it to the school as i was about 2 1/2 blocks away. got my kids check the oil and it was really low so i got 2 quarts as it was a gas station in walking distance. i thought it was a lil better but i started driving it and it had the same results. i got it home about a 10minute trip regularly and parked it.
the next day day it ran then stumbled hard. and every time i tried to start it got the same think was like a lock up. it did crank but when it tried to start it stumbled or locked up. i pulled the plugs had some wet threads oil was on the first on and the threads and around the spark plug b4 i pulled it out.
2 of the other plugs had red stuff on them not on the threads though. here are some pictures also i will show a vid of what its doing. i did a compression test and here are the numbers starting with the first one with oil on threads.
190-194-200-190+ compression test with cold engine.
Also smoked puffed up not sure from where yet..
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The Change Oil light was illuminated for a short time on my 2000 Grand Am. This morning, on the way to get the oil changed, the Service Vehicle Soon light came on also. After the oil change, the Change Oil light went off, but the Service Vehicle Soon light stayed on. I stopped by my mechanic, who doesn't like to change oil, since it does pay enough, and he said that there was something else that they should have done to reset this other light. He said it was in the manual, but I don't find it. How to turn it off?
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I have a 2000 Grand AM cylin. Recently I was driving when my car started to shake violently. I drove it to the side of the road to a parking lot then it died. I started it up again and is ran but shacking a lot again. Once I got home, 3 blocks away the car died again. I tried to start it again but it would only turn but not start the engine. I have checked the gas pump, motor mounts, oil and anti freez for oil. I did check the timing chain but I don't know much on how it should be.
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My check engine light started blinking on my 2000 grandam se last night and it was missing bad and now it wont start what is it.
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I have a 2000 Pontiac grand am coupe GT with the 6 cylinder engine. It has been a very good car to me. I really like it and it "fits" me well ... and yet... it is now testing me. About a year ago the check engine light came on. The codes were P0327 and P0336 for bad Knock sensor and Crank sensor respectively. The were both replaced multiple times, the light still stays on... and the codes are still coming up. I have have been to different experts, and after the computer resets... there they are again. (someone even thought that the computer needed updated codes for those sensors... so he installed them.. with no better results). The code P1189 for an oil switch is now coming up too.Here in California, the car cannot pass smog with the check engine light on... so I'm not able to re-register it, and I don't think I can sell it for much because no one can register it now. So, what this can be? Is there some common thread between all these sensors (or a recall of some kind) that would explain this? My fear is that the computer will have to be changed at about $1000. My even greater fear is that that will still not solve the problem.
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Was driving on the highway and all of a sudden my mph gauge just drops and my car slows down. This is the first time it happened and it didn't do it again after I got off the highway. Other things it has been doing: eating gas, shifting hard, and doesn't want to get up to speed. Not sure if they are related to this new problem or not.
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I have a 2000 V6 3400 engine. I had the intake gaskets repaired with the "good metal ones" according to the mechanic I had do the job. Cost me $600. Car still has coolant leak it overheats every 3 days or so. Leaves no puddles under car when parked. Can smell coolant when stopping at stop light or stop sign or when parking car. No obvious coolant running down or pooling on the engine. Sometimes it seems like smell is coming from heat vents but no wet spots on carpet or liquid coming out of vent. Took to mechanic again and he said it was the head gasket leaking. Wants $1100 to fix it. Don't have the money. Was wondering if any of these additives you can get at Autozone Etc. may work. It wouldn't be my first choice but financially it's about all I can do right now.
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I replaced the ignition key lock cylinder on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE. I performed the re-learn process by cranking the engine over, then releasing to the ON position for about 9 minutes. During the 9 minutes the SECURITY light blinked the whole time, then at the end it went solid for a few seconds, then off. On the next cranking cycle I was able to start the engine and thought all was good. But now when I open the door the car beeps as if the key is left in the ignition and the automatic locks are disabled with the door opened.What is the problem and how do I fix it?
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,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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2010 Mazda Speed 3 ....My car has about 62,000 miles on it and has recently been having acceleration issues. 1-3rd gear seem under powered and what I am giving on the gas does not equal the power that should be coming forth, the RPMs seem to shoot up really high with no power transfer. When i am in 3-5th gear my acceleration is again funky with the slightest touch on the gas again causing the RPMs to jump high with no return of power to actually accelerate. I recently replaced the battery and changed the oil??
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Last night when I was driving home, I noticed that all of my "night lights" were off. The lights on the speedometer, gas gauge, gear shift, etc. did not seem to be working, but all of my system warning lights (Traction, Brake, etc) seemed to be fine. I tried to turn the car on and off a few times and also tried fiddling with the lights manually. Nothing seemed to be working.
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This is on a 2004 Pontiac Grand AM.
The old GM ABS light problem. The lights were on a month ago and the left front hub was replaced, the light went out. They just came back on all of a sudden (coincided with the temperature dropping to 15F). The next day they were out. Then the next day they came back on. I couldn't get a code read with the basic scan tool.
Where should I start? I'm thinking of cleaning the speed sensor connectors and reseating with dialectic grease. Maybe they're dirty or a bit brittle due to age and the cold?
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Recently I was driving on the highway, about 70 miles into my trip, when all of a sudden my cruise control kicked out and the rpms went high and then I lost acceleration. I pulled over to the berm and tried to take off. Problem is I could not get the car past 30mph because the accelerator pedal could. not be pushed down more than an inch or two no matter how hard I pushed. What could be wrong???
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with about 130k miles on it. For some reason my car has been dying lately. It did this a few times so the obvious thing was to buy a new battery- oct 2011. Everything was good for a couple months but I recently went on a trip for the weekend and when I came home the car was dead. I jumped it and everything was good until this week. I had a work conference and left wednesday at 8am. When I got home Friday at 5pm the car was dead again. I had an alternator test done before but could it be the alternator? I love my little car and would like to get a couple more years out of her!!!
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Have a 2004 Grand am that was having some problems starting:
1) The last 10 times it would start cold, but it would take about 5-10 seconds of turnover before actually starting.
2) After it started, it would start fine the rest of the day.
Now it will not start at all. Today is the coldest day of the year so far... 43 degrees. It tries to turn over. The security light came on once, but did not come on again (i know that's a common problem). (note: I have not seen it in person, but will later today). Either fuel or spark.
My thought: either fuel pump, fuel pump relay, sensor, wires/plugs, etc.
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