Pontiac - Grandam :: 1994 - Ignition Fuse Keeps Blowing
Jun 2, 2010
I have had this car for sum yrs never had any problem a couple months back while driving it would just shut off. Well come to find out my ign fuse would be blowing. I would replace it and it would start up and run just fine. Since then my daughter owns the car and it happened again and she replaced the fuse and it started up fine but while out of town it just shut off and now even if you replace the fuse it just blows. Just as you turn the key, it blows. So i did sum research and replaced the ignition switch. Tryed to start it and it still blows so im at my wits end. If I knew what every component that fuse ran , i could figure it out by process of elimination. I have the Chilton book but i still can't seem to find what all components that one ign fuse runs. It is a 94 grand am 3.1 v6....
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I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am it will start once but after that if you turn off ignition it will not start again until it has sat for a long time.
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My granddaughter's 1999 Pontiac Grand Am is overheating & blowing the antifreeze. Radiator was checked out OK, engine was replaced with 69000 miles, and check out OK - still overheating.
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My grand am began shaking (shuddering) consistently yesterday morning and I ran a diagnostic reading on the car. It told me that there was a misfire. I replaced the spark plugs and still no change. This car has been a nightmare to do maintenance work on since everything is either within a case or impossible to access on a regular car jack - so what could be causing this reaction in the car? Is it definitely the ignition coil? I would just hate to attempt to replace that (not to mention the fact that it's $100+ for the part) if I didn't survey other options. 2003 Pontiac Grand Am 2.2....
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Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
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I replaced the ignition key lock cylinder on my 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE. I performed the re-learn process by cranking the engine over, then releasing to the ON position for about 9 minutes. During the 9 minutes the SECURITY light blinked the whole time, then at the end it went solid for a few seconds, then off. On the next cranking cycle I was able to start the engine and thought all was good. But now when I open the door the car beeps as if the key is left in the ignition and the automatic locks are disabled with the door opened.What is the problem and how do I fix it?
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My car has had issues with the "low coolant" light coming on for over a year. No one could ever find a leak, the coolant level was always pretty good, and I never had a puddle.
Recently, my mechanic suspected it was the heater core. Since I earn early childhood teacher wages, I couldn't afford to have it fixed. As a temporary solution, he bypassed the heater core in order to buy me some time. Now, I have no heat or defrost. But also, the leak has gone out of control! I have to put coolant in daily, and I always have a puddle under my car when I am leaving work at the end of the day.
My car's newest trick is smoke, coming from under the hood, and the fresh smell of burning coolant. However, temperature is fine, at least that's what the gauge says.
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Ok so I just bought this car, 1993 pontiac grand am se, from a neighbor. When I test drove it, the back seat was all unscrewed so I thought no biggie and it drove really nice for being a 1993. Ended up buying the car. I get the car home, husband puts seats back together and we go to leave for town and the fuel pump fuse blew. Put a new one in, go to start the car, fuse blows again! Tow the car home. Husband checks the wires to make sure there is no faulty wires. Has to reground the ground wire. Car then starts. Go to drive down my driveway and the dang fuse blew again! Mind you there is a new fuel pump in the car so we know this isn't what is wrong with it.
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I've been trying to work out why my 94 Camry isn't starting, and was hoping I could run a few things by you all and see if you think I'm headed in the right direction. So, here's the situation so far.
No leading-up issues of any kind. Just passed a (real) PA inspection and runs great. The car was parked just overnight, running fine the day before. The next day, it wouldn't start at all. Strong turn-over. No attempt to start. I tested a working spark plug by connecting it to the car (pulled out), and then connecting the threads to the negative terminal of the battery. While turning over, there was no spark. I then pulled the distributor cap and rotor. It appears some oil (definitely engine oil) had gotten inside from a previous known leak. The rotor contact was not super clean and looked to have some burnt up oil on it. I cleaned up all the contact points and reassembled. Nothing. Took the cap back off and tested the coil with an ohmmeter, which was all within spec. I have not tested individual terminal from the distributor, because a) I'm not entirely sure of a good way to do this and b) I doubt all four cables went bad at the same time, and if some were firing, it should be attempting to start, no? I suspect it's an issue from the distributor or before.
I had read that a coil with good ohmmeter readings may still be bad, so I ordered a new one. Should be here tomorrow.
Is there anything else I should test or look into? Oh, and is it weird that the headlight fuse keep blowing when I attempt to start the car? Does that give any clues as to the source of the problem?
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I purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
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I have a 1996 geo metro that I have been working on for the last couple days. The problem that I have been running into is the ignition fuse keeps blowing the instant that the key is turned.
This kills the power to the fuel pump as well as the power to the ECM. (killing all the idiot lights). The engine still cranks over and all the accessories still work.
I have tried disconnecting the fuel pump wires as well as the ECM and the ignition module to try and narrow down the problem but the fuse still blows about 2 seconds after I turn the key.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Sante Fe 2.4L that keeps blowing the ECU fuse under the hood when the ignition is turned on. We have replace the fuel pump and the inertia switch. I have tested the relay, ignition failure sensor, both coils and O2 sensor wiring.
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I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
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Last night when I was driving home, I noticed that all of my "night lights" were off. The lights on the speedometer, gas gauge, gear shift, etc. did not seem to be working, but all of my system warning lights (Traction, Brake, etc) seemed to be fine. I tried to turn the car on and off a few times and also tried fiddling with the lights manually. Nothing seemed to be working.
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I have a 2000 grand am Gt with 3400 motor it started up just fine went to turn around in the drive way the dash lights came on where the ABS sensor is bad, but if u shut it off and started it back up they would go out so i shut it down and went to start it back up and all it does is click, so i thought it was the starter and replaced it, still only clicks. I called GM dealership they said more then likely it is the plastic piece the ignition switch goes in to so i just replaced it and does the same thing.
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This is on a 2004 Pontiac Grand AM.
The old GM ABS light problem. The lights were on a month ago and the left front hub was replaced, the light went out. They just came back on all of a sudden (coincided with the temperature dropping to 15F). The next day they were out. Then the next day they came back on. I couldn't get a code read with the basic scan tool.
Where should I start? I'm thinking of cleaning the speed sensor connectors and reseating with dialectic grease. Maybe they're dirty or a bit brittle due to age and the cold?
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with about 130k miles on it. For some reason my car has been dying lately. It did this a few times so the obvious thing was to buy a new battery- oct 2011. Everything was good for a couple months but I recently went on a trip for the weekend and when I came home the car was dead. I jumped it and everything was good until this week. I had a work conference and left wednesday at 8am. When I got home Friday at 5pm the car was dead again. I had an alternator test done before but could it be the alternator? I love my little car and would like to get a couple more years out of her!!!
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Have a 2004 Grand am that was having some problems starting:
1) The last 10 times it would start cold, but it would take about 5-10 seconds of turnover before actually starting.
2) After it started, it would start fine the rest of the day.
Now it will not start at all. Today is the coldest day of the year so far... 43 degrees. It tries to turn over. The security light came on once, but did not come on again (i know that's a common problem). (note: I have not seen it in person, but will later today). Either fuel or spark.
My thought: either fuel pump, fuel pump relay, sensor, wires/plugs, etc.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am with a 3.4L engine. When I start my car after it has been sitting for a while, especially in the morning, the engine shutters making the car shake when it is put into Reverse and Drive. Plus a horrible gas smell come from the hood and into the heating vents. So to alleviate the shaking I let the car run for several minutes which in turn makes the gas smell worse. The smell continues to get worse when the car is stopped at a alight or stop sign. to eventually go away as the car heats up. The check engine light blinks with the shaking then disappears but eventually stayed on with a cylinder misfire code. I took it to a shop who told me that was the head gaskets.
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I just got a 96 Grand Am for second vehicle, but it won't blow any air (hot or cold), I checked fuses they all look good. I'm thinking possibly blower motor, but wanted to get some feedback before I start plugging away.
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So, a couple weeks ago, while driving down the highway, my '99 Grand Am had the oil lamp come on, and the engine was running rough. I pulled over and stopped the car, and then went to try to start it, to no avail. The engine wouldn't crank. After getting it home via tow truck, I charged the battery as first aid.Now, with the charged battery, the engine will start, and run very roughly, as in shaking the entire engine bay. Further, the oil lamp is on now. After a minute of running like this, the engine dies off. Stepping on the gas expedites the stalling out. I've checked and filled the oil, and the coolant (which was low). My next guesses are fuel filter and timing belt.
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