Pontiac - G6 :: 2007 - Steering Stick While Turning Sharply At Slow Speed?
Jan 14, 2013
2007 G6 Problem occurs at slow speed with sharp turning, such as coming out or into the driveway. As the steering rack moves slowly it tends to stick and release 3 or 4 times when turning sharply at very slow speed. It makes a sound so loud even the passenger cam hear it and the driver can feel it in the steering wheel. Does occur while driving normally. The dealer says its a GM problem with no real correction. They greased the rack and said the problem would return soon, but it is not a safety problem. So far they have been right on both counts. Are there any real cures?
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I own a 2002 Pontiac Montana van with 36,000 original miles. The past year it started making a loud whining noise that seems to come from the rear of the vehicle. It seems to be worse in summer than in winter. It iis really loud when turning into a parking lot or when turning sharply to go thru a drive thru at a restaurant. I have taken it to several mechanics and also to a dealership, and no one seems to be able to find the problem.
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Immediately after putting new tires on my '02 Taurus SES, steering is really hard at the pullout, or turning at slow speed just after startup. After several seconds, steering is back to normal. I did have the steering pump flushed out with new fluid several months ago, and fluid is up to level now.
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I have a 2009 3.3L santa fe integral transmission and for the second time they have a really bad shacking in the steering wheel and in the stick shift when I'm on the road the same thing like your drive on the side road bump to wake you up. I stop two times on the side of the road to find if they have anything abnormal but with no resolute.
My oils are all ok and no loss of performance of the car except they consume a little bit more gas (around 10L/100Km. The last time this happened the arm shifter vibrated.
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I've gotten it a couple of times lately while turning at slow speed. The first guess is always the CV joint/boot - but wouldn't that be multiple pops?
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So, I just noticed this happening about a month ago and it's been occurring more frequently. Whenever I'm turning (left or right) and moving at a very slow speed (1 - 5mph), I feel a binding and sometimes I hear a slipping sound (that's the best that I can describe it). When I hear this sound, it feels like the Touareg's gears or center differential is slipping. What it is? If so, was the dealer able to resolve it quickly?
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For a little while I have been noticing an odd noise from the front driver side tire. About a year ago on two different occasions I heard a sound when I turned the wheel somewhat sharply that sounded like a clacking noise almost like gears slipping. It only happened for a few seconds and stopped but has never done it other than those 2 times that I am aware of. This is my wifes everyday driver, so I don't always hear the noises.
Recently it started making a sound that to me sounded very similar to a wheel bearing going bad. I looked into it a little and drove it and decided to change it even though it didn't have all the "symptoms" of a wheel bearing (louder when turning away from that side, quieter when turning towards that side, play in the wheel). After replacing the hub assembly it didnt make the same noise, but made a different noise that was from the shield on the back side of the rotor rubbing against it. Took it for a drive thinking that I fixed it only to have it start doing it again. After listening closer it sounded like a metal rubbing against metal sound, sorta like a brake pad dragging on a grooved or rusty rotor. I inspected the rotor and all i saw as an issue was on the inner side of it there was a ring of rust on the inner and outer edges, and it was wearing the pad to have beveled edges. I replace the pads and rotor, and it still makes the sound.
I am down to two options that I can think of trying but do not want to really try either one because of the amount of money I have already put into it.
1) I have thought about replacing the brake caliper.
2) I have thought about replacing the CV Axle, BUT the boots are in excellent shape.
It doesn't make the noise all the time, and sometimes it is worse when turning to the right, and other times there is no change regardless of the direction you turn. When it does do it, it feels almost as if the car is dragging and pulls to the drivers side.
I am really at a loss here and don't want to keep narrowing it down because I have misdiagnosed the problem twice now, and was really confident in it being the wheel bearing.
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Noticed the front suspension makes some "flexing" noises when turning the wheel during slow speed maneuvers? (e.g. during parallel parking). The best way I can describe it is it sounds like the suspension is being compressed as I turn the wheel as the car has almost come to a complete stop. (yes I know we should avoid turning the wheel when stationary). I realize it's probably normal. I'll just add it to the list of other noises my car likes to make. My car is bone stock btw.
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Will start with the back story, i have a 2007 G6 V6 that had a slow leak in the radiator. I kept it full and it only went higher than normal once but i noticed it right away and didn't let the needle peg at hot so I've kept it full, checking it every time I went somewhere. the other day on my way to work the needle pegged at hot and the temp light came on so i pulled over right away and shut the car off and let it cool for an hour and added some more coolant. started it up again and the temp stayed normal for a minute so i tried to get it back to the house when the needle pegged, i lost power and the check engine light came on. i stopped the car and called a tow and while waiting on the tow truck my battery died and all i had running was the hazards. the only thing I noticed was the leak in the radiator had gotten worse.
After I got it home and let it sit for 5-6 hours i got a jump from my neighbor and I noticed I wasn't getting any circulation, the reservoir was still full, the check engine light came on and stayed on, and within a minute or two the temp was rising fast so i shut it off and haven't touched it since except to check the oil which looks, smells, and feels fine and is at the proper level and didn't see any oil floating around the overflow tank. and while the car was hot I didn't see any smoke or steam coming from anywhere aside from the leak in the radiator, the water pump pulley was spinning fine, no whining or whirring sounds. i did notice that the plastic piece where the metal overflow line attaches to the engine was badly cracked but wasn't leaking.
I'm thinking maybe the water pump went out and/or the thermostat is stuck closed and caused the overheating issue. as far as the check engine light goes, could that cracked plastic piece cause the check engine light to stay on?not sure if there's a sensor involved in that or not. or could it be the low coolant sensor causing it as the block has no coolant in it?
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Getting a creak sounds like near struts at slow speeds and turning , it stopped when it got cold, but on the first warm day today its back . I did replace the struts, bearings and seats, but have to admit I used the cheapos . I just cant find where its creaking from...
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I recently bought an'08 Base model. It is making a creaking noise in the front end on the left side either behind the wheel or under the motor. It only does it when taking off from a stop and/or turning mainly to the right during slow speed, seems to be when the body weight is shifting. To me it sounds as though something needs greased or maybe a strut.
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Mazda5; 2010; 105,000 miles.
Recently, our Mazda has started making a subdued grinding sound. It happens only when accelerating from idling to 10 miles per hour. It does not occur over 10 mph, in neutral, or park. It doesn't happen when starting the car or in reverse either. according to my wife, it does happens when turning right at slow speeds, but not left.
We have just driven it to our mechanic but it may take a couple days before they are able to look at it.
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I own a 2009 VW tiguan 2TSI 4WD. Lately i am experiencing undercarriage low tone grinding noise as i made turns at slow speed. i am not sure if the noise is coming from the rear or front. Why and what should i do about it.
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The ignition locks up continually. the manual says to turn the steering wheel which is impossible! It has a floor transmission so I try pushing the button in with no success. After 2 or 3 minutes of trying to turn the key(s), cussing and building panic it finally starts. He tried spraying WD40 in it and that didn't work at all. I'm about to trade this thing off for this simple problem!
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I purchased my .:R last summer with just over 100k miles on it. Two prior owners, car was fully stock and in great condition except for one thing:
Humming/vibration ("brrrrr" sound) coming from the back of the car when turning at a slow speed with the wheel fully cranked, e.g. moving out of a parking spot. It only occurs when moving, and with the wheel fully or almost fully turned in one direction.
The guy I purchased it from brought it to a local VW dealership when he noticed this and they (obviously) did not find anything wrong with the car, and blamed it on the tire wear.
So I changed all four tires. Still made the noise.
Haldex oil had been changed by the original owner but not by the second owner (who owned the car for two years prior to my purchase). So I had the Haldex oil changed and my mechanic said it was dirty AND at a low level, and might be the source of this problem. The noise did diminish for a bit, but it is still present.
So, I'm afraid my transmission or differential are fried from running on too little oil. It does not affect anything but it is definitely worrying me.
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i have a Subaru legacy rs 1996 twin turbo, about 6 months ago now i replaced both front outer CV joints and boots due to a grinding when turning at slow speed e.g a car park. the grinding had gone and its was all fine until now the same grinding as come back. its it normal for the CV joint to wear out that fast or could there be a different problem?
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My brakes work well enough while going straight. However, when I am sharply turning the car and braking at the same time (like when I'm pulling into a parking space), the brakes don't work.
This is potentially dangerous for the pedestrians/other cars near me when I'm parking (but no accidents yet). A quick brake check by my mechanic while the car was in for something else showed nothing out of the ordinary in there. It's a 1995 Chevy Beretta.
Questions: What is causing it? How is it fixed? Is this something that a tinkering amateur can do, or should I go to a professional.
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So yet I found out about another common issue but not that publicized. This is the grinding sound when turning at full lock (left or right) in slow speed. I've read several people in the forum who has encountered this. I read different remedies but the most common one is to have the CV boots lubricated.
I have a 2014 Wolfsburg with almost 5k miles. I am really now worrying about my water pump crapping out on me but I heard this grinding sound yesterday.
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6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
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2005 Malibu LS 3.5L (Epsilon Body) with rear disk brakes. Do the rear disk brake pads have the wear indicators just like the front pads?
Car started making an intermittent low pitch whistle noise (sounds like an old steam locomotive whistle, just really low muffled) but it only does it while turning sharply on right turns. It doesn't come on while turning left or driving straight.
At first I suspected the fuel pump but I'm not sure. I've owned the car since 2008 and never replaced the rear brakes, so it might be time!
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I have a 2001 Toyota Echo which developed severe vibration feedback to the steering wheel when the car was driven at low speed or stopped at a traffic sign or signal.
I took the car to the Toyota dealer and they checked the brakes, replaced the front rotors. They also checked the fuel pump and other engine components. The spark plugs and PCV vale were replaced, as well as the crank seal.
When I left the garage, the vibration reappeared after driving about five minutes. I immediately went back to the garage and waited while the mechanic checked the car. He came to the waiting room and said I would not believe what they found. I went to the garage with him and the hood on the car was raised. He started the car and there was no unusual vibration.
He closed the hood and the vibration started again. The problem was that the underhood reinforcement panel had come unwelded (or unglued) and it was vibrating. A mechanic came from the body shop and put a sealer/filler at the loose spots, we let the car sit for a while, the mechanic said the sealer/filler would expand to close the gap, and I drove the car home. The vibration had stopped.
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