Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
View 3 Replies1990 Ford Aerostar. When I start runs really rough and has excessive fuel consumption and the exhaust smells like gas and has a misfire my friend says its the coil pack going bad im not sure. I love my ford aerostar dont wanna get rid of it.
View 5 RepliesI have an 03 F350 with the 6.0L. It has 210,000 miles on it and the injectors are beginning to be suspect. Its very hard to start when its cold, smokes and runs like crap untill it warms up.
I've found a set of injectors out of a 2005 truck with 8000 miles on them. The truck was overboosted and blew a head gasket.
Now finally to my question.....Can the overboost damage the injector? Would it be safe to buy these and install them or rebuild them before install or just leave them alone?
2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
Well today I was happy go lucky on my way to work everything was going fine then all of a sudden this car in front of me slows down. Okay then I go to speed back up and my car was still crunk but I lose power I could not accelerate at all. So I had to coast to the side of the road and I put the car in park to see if it will allow me to accelerate in a different gear and when I do that.
The car shuts off then I go to crank it back up the first time and I got nothing then I wait a couple of seconds then try it again. It cranks up but still cant accelerate until I raise the engine then I can finally move. I was able to do about 65 mph to get to work but this happened two more times before I got back home that night. The car is a 2000 and has 220,000 miles on it.
I took the car to a part store to see why the service engine light was on. They told me it was a bad or faulty EGR valve but this was the first time the service engine light has flashed before.
My fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
View 2 Replies2004 4.7 liter runs out of power at 5000 rpm, stays in gear cause the shift point at wot is more like 6000. No codes, runs fine otherwise.
View 9 RepliesMy 98 Maxima won't idle without dying, it sputters when you accelerate, and it tries to die while coasting. I've changed two O2 sensors (AutoZone gave me the code for bank 1 sensor 1 & 2) changed spark plugs, tried fuel injector cleaner, oil change, and cleaned MAF sensor & checked the wiring. It;s still spitting out the black exhaust. Although after changing the O2 sensors it quit for about a day or two but started again (I'm guessing the other sensors need to be changed to) But the main problem is once it warms up, it really runs like crap, and is a major gas hog. I'm getting about 12 Mpg.
View 19 RepliesI was wondering if fuel injectors throw a code when it goes out. I have a 02 7.3 been running rough when you accelerate bogs down and looses power not sure but sometimes gas light would come on knowing I have gas in it could that be a sign of the sending unite and that's why it runs rough..
View 3 RepliesMy friend has a 1996 or 1997 Pontiac Bonneville with over 130K miles on it and its been in her family for several years and she says the "Check Engine" light on it has never turned off. She's taken it to different shops to have it looked at and none of them can tell her what's wrong with it. As far as she can tell, the car runs fine, she keeps up with the service on it but I wonder what would be causing this? I once owned a 1999 Chevy Malibu with the V-6 3.1 liter engine and I had the same thing happen to me but when I had it serviced, the mechanic hooked a little code reading device to it and turns out the spark plugs were misfiring so he changed the coil pack in it....problem solved. So obviously my friend is having issues with fuel emissions system in it but I wonder why the mechanics in the City she lives in can't seem to figure out the problem. Not saying her car has the same problem my old malibu once had, there's a number of reasons why that light turns on and from what I've learned it usually involves the fuel emissions system in it. So what could be wrong with it?
View 4 RepliesMy engine codes as a no 3 injector miss. sometimes it misses more severe than others. When accelerating it doesn't seem to be missing. I have changed out injectors, ignition control modules, spark plug wires etc. Sometimes it doesn't miss or code out at all but this is rare.
View 9 RepliesEvery year at this time I get check engine code about either the temp. sensor or the thermostat. I replace the temp. sensor every year, and last year I replaced both the temp. sensor and the thermostat and flushed the cooling system and replaced the coolant. but not this year, no I'm not doing it! For there has to be some other reason other than the temp sensor failing each year! 2005 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8 V6....
View 6 RepliesI was surprised this morning by my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville not starting. All the other devices and systems activated but the engine made no attempt to turn over at all. It's a rebuilt title but the car has shown no signs of difficulty except a small bit of sputtering last night when it was unfortunately running on fumes and the service light activating after the gas tank was filled. My limited experience and lack of funds makes me hope this is a blown fuse as that would be relatively quick and painless (so I understand it) to fix but a friend has suggested it may be the starter and I am not foolish enough to believe it couldn't be something even worse. Of course I want to be appraised of more serious concerns in case I need to start making long term plans to restore my mobility.
View 2 RepliesI have an '89 Pontiac Bonneville that has a new fuel pump and filter, computer, starter, ignition, battery and oxygen sensor! Our car will crank up, but then shut off and lose all power within 30 secs. What could be wrong?The ignition still won't work. I was told that it may be the anti-theft. Does this car have one? If so, where is it?What else could be wrong with the car? We are having a very hard time!!!!!
View 2 RepliesAll at once my power locks and windows on all doors and the power mirrors quit working. The Driver Info center also says "Unknown Driver" when I start the car. After that happened the check engine ligth came on and when I went to get that checked there was no power to the ODB port (not sure if it is related or separate). Also, the brake, ABS, and traction control lights are on...they have been so I'm sure that is a separate issue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1994 Ford F-150 pickup with a 4.9 litre fuel injected inline six. Truck ran fine and took me to my destination but after sitting for 4 hours the truck would not start. Engine would turn over normally and could hear fuel pump running (didn't seem to stop) but truck would not start.
I changed fuel filter but truck would still not start. I removed air filter assembly and poured starting fluid in the air intake and engine started but idled roughly. Engine will rev up but runs very rough and lacks power when driven. Also the check engine light stays on.
I have a problem with my 01 santa fe. When I start it the engine runs rough and when u try to give it gas it pops or backfire through throttle body and air intake tube? Checked the timing belt its ok hasnt slipped.so im stuck at this point.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 F350 with the 7.3 standard trans. The previous owner put a toggle switch to control the EBPV as an engine brake, I've never used it. It blows white/blue smoke when cold but has for the last 4 years and doesn't seem any worse now.
Last fall I ran the truck the lowest on fuel that I ever have, the light was on for a long time and I thought I would run out. I made it to the gas station and filled it up then drove home. The next time I drove it I went about 25 miles and it started to buck while going up hill. This got worse and eventually the check engine light came on and it stalled.
It wouldn't start again so I had it towed home. I got it started a couple hours later but it would run really rough and only for a minute or so then stall. It will usually start again once or twice and stall, then it wont start again until it has sat for an hour or so.
I didn't have a code reader at the time so I started reading threads. Here's what I've done to date.
Changed the oil and filter, it was way over do. New fuel filter.
The oil level in the HPOP stays about an inch from the top, I've checked it a few times after its stalled.
Dropped the tank and cleaned the screens in the pick up, no change.
The ICP had oil on it so I replaced it and a new connector, no change.
Changed the CSP with a grey one, no change.
Changed the IPR valve with one from a buddy that was on an engine that was running. The truck ran rough for a min then settled down and ran smooth. I let it idle for 20-25 minutes with no problem so I thought the problem was solved. After sitting for a month or so I fired it up and its back to running rough then stalling.
I bought a Vgate ELM327 connector and downloaded FORScan on my laptop. (I'm still not sure what I'm doing). These are the stored codes P1281, P0475, P1316, P0478, P0470, P1211. I cleared all the codes. I did a buzz test cold and the Injectors all sounded the same.
I monitored the truck while running (rough) the IPR is staying around19.92%, ICP is 701.4psi. After 5 seconds the ICP starts to climb and so does the IPR, at 12 seconds the IPR is 37.11 and ICP is 1835.1 psi the it stalls. The fuel pw,ms is around 2.50-3.0 until before it stalls, then its 1.66. The only codes that come up are P0475, P0470, B1473.
2001 Grand am 2.4. Runs fine when the engine is cold but when it warms up the idle is rough. When throttle is added from idle, RPM's drop, it hesitates, then either stalls or goes. Car runs just fine when there is a load on the engine (highway speeds). Sometimes it will even stall coming onto off ramps off the freeway. It intermittently shifts hard. SES light is on p0108. Have replaced the MAP sensor and checked for vacuum leaks, still have the light and the same problems.
View 7 RepliesMy 90 lumina euro 3.1 has idle surge after it warms up. fluctuates between 600 and 1200 rpm when in drive. When you first get on the throttle it wants to die. Once you get past that it runs smooth while driving. Ive also notice that it tries to "buck" when its at lower rpm and barely on the throttle while pulling.
I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks, has recient tuneup, had a egr code and that has been replaced. I've cleaned the throttle body also. Previous owner had intake gaskets replaced as well as fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump.
I have a '90 Bonneville SSE and after coming to a stop at a red light on the highway, when the light turned green the car wouldn't move forward. There were no odd noises, the car had been in cruise control and there had been no problems up to that point. The car shifted crisply, there was no obvious slippage or hesitation going into gear.
I can feel the car engage in both drive and reverse, but it won't move at all.