I have a friend that has a Grand Am. Not sure of the year, somewhere in the early 2000's. When she parks her car and shuts the engine off, the power stays on. It takes several times of repositioning the car in the parking space to be able to turn off everything and remove the key. What is causing this and is there a temporary solution to it as she accumulates money to have it repaired?
View 9 RepliesWhy the passat engine stays very hot after hours on turn off? We have a Touareg and the engine does not get that hot and cools faster.
View 2 RepliesCheck engine light issue. For the past 3 months, my check engine light has been turning on. The first time it happened, the garage replaced the EVAP Purge Solenoid (which includes the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid). Of course, a few months later, the check engine light turned on again. The second time, the garage replaced the gas cap. Then the check engine light turned on again the next day.
So, the third time, the garage performed maintenance/repair on the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid. Of course, three days after driving my car, the check engine light turned back on. I've contacted the garage for the fourth time now. I explained that their diagnostics have obviously been exhausted, and they aren't really sure what the problem is. I'm going back in a few days to speak to the lead mechanic hoping to be compensated for their guess-work or at the least to be given an honest "I don't know" answer.
I got my car from an auction and I apparently had to do work to it and we got most problems fixed but now when i saw my fuse box i saw their wasn't a fuse in the radio so i put on in there and it can on so I thought cool it works so i turned my car off and the radio stayed on and i thought, bad fuse so i got a new fuse put it in and my car was still off and the radio stayed on. So i can't have a radio because my battery will drain. The ignition works i got a new one installed it perfectly my car is a 2000 Pontiac grandprix gtp supercharged. I've only had it for about 3 weeks ...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Pontiac grand prix, when I turn off my car my heater fan motor stays on... What could be the cause of this?
View 12 RepliesMy 1999 GMC Sonoma has a occaisonal problem--the tail lights stay lit after the light switch and the ignition are turned off. The brake pedal does not appear to be sticking. The cure has been to remove both light bulbs, wait a few minutes, plug them back in, and all is well. This might happen an average of once a month, seems more common in hot weather.
View 1 RepliesOk, so I'm working on a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, 93,000 miles. The vehicle runs great! So great that you cant get it to stop running!! The problem is intermittent and generally happens after the vehicle has been running for at least 3 minutes. I turn the key off and she keeps on running (not dieseling, but running at 340-450 rpms!) I have already removed the aftermarket remote start that was installed on the vehicle thinking that was the problem, it was not. Then I went to the ignition switch and unplugged that, also to no avail! I plugged my scan tool in and can communicate with the computer and view pids while the key is on. When I turn the key off, I should loose communication. When everything acting normal and the car actually shuts off with the key, I loose communication with the computer upon turning the key off. When I turn the key off and the veh. keeps running, I do NOT loose communication with the pcm. The only way to shut the car off is to step on the gas pedal. Otherwise it'll run at 400 or so RPM for an hour or so!!
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am it will start once but after that if you turn off ignition it will not start again until it has sat for a long time.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Pontiac Montana van, when i drive i feel like there is just not enough power there. Most of the time when i hit 30mph the engine drops in power, hard to explain so I will try my best. I get in turn the key starts right up with out any hesitation what's so ever! I leave for work, while driving when I come to a stop sign and stop and take off its gets sluggish so while my speedometer is going up my movement is not changing as it should so needless to say I have to do 80 85 mph just to keep up with the average moving can at 70mph.
Once in a while I will give it some gas and let go of it and it would back fire a little not sure why. Recently I had new head gaskets put on cause temperature was not staying where it was suppose to be, they smooth out the headers and did a tune up, not sure about the timing, New fluids, once in awhile the temp would climb but that cause of the fans. Took it to AutoZone they did a obd code check came back with O2 senser and nothing else, so if I replace this will it bring my van back to normal running operation? And would it be anything I could check to rule out?
After I turn the car off the "PARK" light in the Dash stays lit for about 6 seconds after all the other lights have turned off. Is this normal?
I will advise, I have the parking brake set to auto and the car seems to be functioning normally.
My sons 98 F150 4x4. First off he had a head light go out and replaced the bulb. Then a day or so later his tail lights would not go out after he turned the truck off. I had him to replace the pressure switch(I think that's what it is called ) anyways, that didn't work. So now he takes out the fuse every time he turns off the truck, just so the lights will go out. But, when he puts the brake fuse back in, the brakes work fine, but his windows will not roll down. I am totally confused with what is going on.
View 1 RepliesWhile pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
View 11 RepliesThis started today, when I turn off the ignition and remove the key the radio stays on and the steering column does not lock. The guy at the dealership suggested spraying wd 40 into the ignition. No go.
2008 sonata.
My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
View 2 RepliesAfter the cold hit last night I turned my car on and it starts to shake a lot, also white smoke so I drove it to work while driving it takes forever to pick up speed and jumps speeds on rpm while shaking a lot and then I got off work and now its so hard to turn the wheel now(I put in steering fluid) and still shakes badly. I smelt burning kinda before work and I no I'm due for oil change so I just put oil in atm bcuz I have no time to take it any where atm since I work to full time jobs. Also the Trac off light is on and my service engine light is blinking.
View 2 Repliesmy 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
View 10 RepliesMy airbag light flashes six times when I turn my car on. Then it remains on while I'm driving. I have no clue what this means.
View 4 RepliesWell today I was happy go lucky on my way to work everything was going fine then all of a sudden this car in front of me slows down. Okay then I go to speed back up and my car was still crunk but I lose power I could not accelerate at all. So I had to coast to the side of the road and I put the car in park to see if it will allow me to accelerate in a different gear and when I do that.
The car shuts off then I go to crank it back up the first time and I got nothing then I wait a couple of seconds then try it again. It cranks up but still cant accelerate until I raise the engine then I can finally move. I was able to do about 65 mph to get to work but this happened two more times before I got back home that night. The car is a 2000 and has 220,000 miles on it.
I took the car to a part store to see why the service engine light was on. They told me it was a bad or faulty EGR valve but this was the first time the service engine light has flashed before.
Here are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
For a little while I have been noticing an odd noise from the front driver side tire. About a year ago on two different occasions I heard a sound when I turned the wheel somewhat sharply that sounded like a clacking noise almost like gears slipping. It only happened for a few seconds and stopped but has never done it other than those 2 times that I am aware of. This is my wifes everyday driver, so I don't always hear the noises.
Recently it started making a sound that to me sounded very similar to a wheel bearing going bad. I looked into it a little and drove it and decided to change it even though it didn't have all the "symptoms" of a wheel bearing (louder when turning away from that side, quieter when turning towards that side, play in the wheel). After replacing the hub assembly it didnt make the same noise, but made a different noise that was from the shield on the back side of the rotor rubbing against it. Took it for a drive thinking that I fixed it only to have it start doing it again. After listening closer it sounded like a metal rubbing against metal sound, sorta like a brake pad dragging on a grooved or rusty rotor. I inspected the rotor and all i saw as an issue was on the inner side of it there was a ring of rust on the inner and outer edges, and it was wearing the pad to have beveled edges. I replace the pads and rotor, and it still makes the sound.
I am down to two options that I can think of trying but do not want to really try either one because of the amount of money I have already put into it.
1) I have thought about replacing the brake caliper.
2) I have thought about replacing the CV Axle, BUT the boots are in excellent shape.
It doesn't make the noise all the time, and sometimes it is worse when turning to the right, and other times there is no change regardless of the direction you turn. When it does do it, it feels almost as if the car is dragging and pulls to the drivers side.
I am really at a loss here and don't want to keep narrowing it down because I have misdiagnosed the problem twice now, and was really confident in it being the wheel bearing.
Ok here's the problem. I have a 2003 grand prix se 3.1 and a 1998 grand prix gtp series II sc. Both have the exact same problem running and both had overheating issues prior to. I can start either one on a given day while cold and drive them as if nothing is wrong. But soon as either one hits operating temp, I start to hear what sounds like a rattling or sputtering like sound from under the hood, accompanied with a sudden loss of power and then the engine shuts off. Now yesterday I attempted further diagnostics with the se model GP. I let it idle rather than driving it this time, and it ran perfectly fine for about 20 mins, started to make the aforementioned noise, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm and it kept it from cutting off and smoothed, but the second I let up, it was off and wouldn't restart till it was cooled off. Same goes for the gtp. I'm really stumped on this one.
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