Pontiac :: 2003 - Sudden And Intermittent Engine Stalling
Mar 11, 2011
I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix with only 32,000 miles and has been meticulously maintained. I am experiencing engine stalling both while driving and at rest. I have taken the car to both a diagnostic center and the GM Dealer and neither one can isolate the problem. I have replaced the fuel filter, the Throttle Pressure Switch, and the Idle Air Control Motor. When placed on the diagnostic computer there are no error codes and the car runs well until it randomly dies. I can sometimes recreate the problem when I climb a hill at about 35 MPH and when I reach the top release the accelerator and the engine will die. I can kick it into Neutral and it restarts right away. Sometimes, after driving it, it will be slow starting requiring a longer than usual starter crank. What about possible causes?
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Ok here's the problem. I have a 2003 grand prix se 3.1 and a 1998 grand prix gtp series II sc. Both have the exact same problem running and both had overheating issues prior to. I can start either one on a given day while cold and drive them as if nothing is wrong. But soon as either one hits operating temp, I start to hear what sounds like a rattling or sputtering like sound from under the hood, accompanied with a sudden loss of power and then the engine shuts off. Now yesterday I attempted further diagnostics with the se model GP. I let it idle rather than driving it this time, and it ran perfectly fine for about 20 mins, started to make the aforementioned noise, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm and it kept it from cutting off and smoothed, but the second I let up, it was off and wouldn't restart till it was cooled off. Same goes for the gtp. I'm really stumped on this one.
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Yesterday this thing died on me twice. 30mph to 0 in nothing flat. No problems with stalling before yesterday. It's at the shop now, but they tell me they aren't finding anything and probably won't if they can't get it to die on them too. It had only been driven for about 5 minutes before each occurrence, and each time I had just topped a small hill(if that matters). The second time, it did slightly hesitate to restart and seems to me there was some light smoke from the tailend.
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2003 Explorer Sport, 4.0 L, 84K miles. Car just fell out of extended warranty and has been serviced exclusively by the dealer.
While driving, I experienced a sudden bog down and inability to travel faster than 20 - 25 MPH. The more pedal you give, the less power. In neutral, free revs will not go above 3000 RPM at full pedal and will rise and fall between 2000 - 3000 RPM. The next day all is normal again. This happened twice now and I am not sure why. No CEL, no stored codes.
Plenty of pressure (felt by hand only) out the tail pipe except when fluctuating during free revs. There doesn't appear to be any vacuum leaks. What I can check to correct this? Could it be bad fuel or water in fuel?
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2001 f350. 7.3 has 350k on the engine. Last week it cut out and stalled it was about 15 degrees and though.. fuel had jeld... it warmed up.. didn't happen again. Then two night ago.. happened 4 times in a row then it was fine. yesterday a dozen times at least. It stalls but restarts itself (roll starting i guess) the water in fuel ,CEL and wait to start lights come on and then go off. We started with fuel filter, have changed the cam position sensor (yes with ford part not part stores) and now have also changed the Injection pressure sensor (also with ford part) while it needed changed as it was leaking oil the truck is Still stalling.
My dad is a technician He hooked his computer to the truck.. nothing. He was able to get the truck to recreate the problem with the scanner hooked up. When it stalls if he holds the throttle down the truck stays at an idle and the CEL, wait to start and water in fuel lights are on. It decelerates and puts along as nice as you please with the fuel peddle to the floor! let off the accelerator, lights go off and it recognizes the throttle again. No codes at all. hes thinking its the pcm telling the icp to shut off fuel. What would cause it to do that?
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Bought this car new and really haven't had any major issues until the last month. It's a 2003, six-speed, inline 4, 1.8L engine. When I came to a stop, the engine just died and would not restart until I let it "rest" for a couple of minutes. It restarted and ran fine. This same thing happened again a week or so later.
Then, just yesterday, I was doing about 65 on the interstate and the engine died, tach dropped to 0, but I didn't lose power steering or brakes. I was coasting for a few seconds and the engine came back. When I slowed down to pull into a parking garage, it died but I was coasting enough to pop the clutch and it restarted for a moment allowing me to almost get into a parking stall. As I slowed to get into the stall it died completely and had to be pushed into the stall.
I left it there for a few hours. When I got back, it started and ran fine. I feel this is just the beginning of some problem with the electronic control module/unit.
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I have a 1997 Audi A4 that has been acting a little bit strange lately. When it is started up and left to idle all of a sudden the RPMs drop from around 600-800 to 100-200 sometimes rebounding back up and sometimes the car just dies. This also is happening while I am driving and stopped at a stop light for a short time. It will idle fine then suddenly drop RPMs and if I don't give it any gas then the car usually dies. I have just had some work done on it to try and fix this problem thinking it was the air flow sensor (or something like that) but apparently that is not the case.
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So my car keeps just dying while i'm driving..my car was running just fine until i got gas one morning and then started to sputter while i was driving and didn't want to accelerate very well...read a multiple misfire code when my check engine light was on..changed the coil packs and now isn't reading anything but now it takes a lot of cranks to get the car to start and while i am going down the road it will just die...normal engine dying lights will come on the dash when it dies..have changed the fuel filter..checked the catalytic convertor...checked plugs and wires..once in a while i do get a funny gas smell on the outside of my car but it's not leaking anywhere..checked the battery and still does it with a new battery..changed the fuel pump about 3 years ago..
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Nothing but trouble lately with this thing. All the big stuff is done and just switched to Synthetic oil too. Now I have these intermittent RPM drops of about 200 - 400 RPM. Seems worse under load.
I've been advised to check the ICP pigtail which I can't do without taking it apart. I did program the ICP volts into the SGII. See the video.
Power stroke video - YouTube
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My daughter drives a 1996 sunfire 2.2. car started stalling while driving about a year ago. No apparent pattern, would go weeks even months in between. Last summer it became more frequent and noticed it would only do it when engine was warm. After stalling it will restart after what seems to be a cooling down period. Now it does it at idle as well. (Replaced fuel pump and filter) would like a good guess before I start putting money into it.
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The grand prix is stalling at different times when driving, I cleaned mass air flow sensor. still has same issue, car stalls and have to put in neutral and start while driving.
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I have a 95 Pontiac grand am with a 98 motor. Everything is factory, no modifications. I just recently starting having an issue with the car attempting to stall out while driving over bumps and on some hard turns as well. Haven't replaced anything yet but would like to know what is causing this? I have shook wires, checked for broken ones and found nothing.
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I've got a 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT. A few days ago, my battery went dead when parked and listening to the radio. The terminals looked corroded but we jumped it and it was fine. Monday, my friend removed the connections and cleaned the terminals. The next day, I noticed that upon starting it, there was a noticeable rattle coming from the rear area of the car. Once I hit the gas, it's fine, and after a 50 min interstate drive it seemed fine. However, leaving work today it happened again-- a rattling when stopped at red lights or stop signs. Once I hit the gas it goes away, but starts on again as I slow to a crawl. Is the battery issue a red herring? What could be the cause of this?
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My 2008 Grand Prix has developed an intermittent starting issue. The car always starts in the morning. On some days after I have driven to work, grocery etc it refuses to start. Dead. No sound, no "click click". If the car sits for 15 minutes it will then start. The dealership has replaced the relay in the transmission that tells the car what gear it is in, replaced the battery and cables, suggested I try using my husband's key instead of mine. It still happens. It has done this about 7 times since October.
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I have owned this 96 k1500 5.7L Vortex Suburban for 3 years.
Problem: Intermittent stalling upon coming to a stop. When it stalls and I try to restart the engine, the starter can barely spin the motor. The timing is thrown so far advanced that it will literally fire the engine backward and grind the starter gear on the flywheel. I have killed about six starters so far. I took it to the dealership and after two weeks they are clueless.
So far we have replaced: TPS, Ignition Module, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, ECM, and perhaps a few other things I don't recall at this time. If it would stall and simply restart, I could cope with it. The only way I have found to get it to start is when it stalls, pop hood, unplug the power source to the ignition coil, turn key and spin engine over for a few seconds, replug the power source to the ignition coil, and attempt a restart. Usually I don't have to do this more than once or twice.
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2000 Jetta 2.0. 140k miles. Cranked, but would not fire. Sprayed starter fluid... nothing. No spark. Checked fuel pump and fuel pump relay, all is well. I let it sit over night. I tried starting it, ran for 4 to 5 seconds shut off. Disconnected MAF sensor, it ran. Put in a new MAF sensor, back to cranking no fire. Let it sit over night, started up again. Tried to drive, stalled. Unpliged MAF sensor, now its running. Drove around parking lot. Afraid to take it out, don't want to be stranded.
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My wife and I recently bought a 2003 Pontiac Vibe, a Toyota Matrix with slightly different skin, and shortly after we got a check engine light. When I inspected the car before purchase I noticed that there was black soot in the exhaust pipe. The owner told me that he'd put a cat back exhaust but I suspected I'd probably be replacing the O2 sensors soon and we negotiated the price accordingly. So now it's a month later and I bought an OBD II checker. I followed the instructions and after the checker and the cars ECU linked it showed no stored codes. I turned off the CEL and we went shopping. Mid way on the drive home, we live out in the country, the CEL came on again. Went through the procedure again, still no codes stored. I've read the instruction manual twice and I don't think I'm doing anything wrong. Is it possible to have a check engine light on and there to be no codes stored for the OBD tester to find? I could have bought many rolls of black tape for what the tester cost and I kept the receipt just in case.
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My wife has a 2003 Pontiac Grand am GT 3.4L V6. A few days ago my wife was out and tried to start the car and the service engine light came on and began to blink. (Prior to this the car was running well with no service engine light) The car was running very rough at this point so we shut the car off and I pulled the codes at witch four codes came up witch were: P0205, p0206, p0300, p0443. So I had the car towed to the shop and they said that they thought that it was the oxygen sensor but after that had been replaced they had concluded that the oxygen sensor was not the problem so they had placed the old one back in. Then they said that they restarted the car and it was running fine but then pulled it out of the shop and began to run rough again.
At this point they were thinking that there was a short so they checked the wiring from the ecm (?) back to the oxygen sensor and could not find any problems. And needless to say they started the car and it began to run fine again so they told me to come and pick it up and drive it for the weekend just to see if it was a lose connection that was possibly there. So needless to say once I picked it up the service engine light was still on but the engine sounded good so I figured I would drive the car home and maybe the light would shut off. Well upon taking off and getting a few miles down the road the engine started to idol at 2000 rmp when in park or neutral.
So I stopped and pulled the code and got P0443 again so while I had the scan tool connected I cleared the codes to see if the light would come back on with the same code or with multiple again. The service engine light stayed off. So the high idol continued for a few miles I also did try to restart the car and the problem did persist. About 5 more miles down the road the car started to overheat and the reservoir had overheated. So at this point the engine sounds good it is not running rough but is really high idol. The check engine light did not come on since I cleared the codes in that short drive but I do not want to drive it because of the overheating. I do know that the coolant level was good when we started the car.
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My car won't start and I'm trying to figure out why. What is going on. The kind of car I have:
2003 Pontiac Grand Am
2.2L, In-Line4, VIN(F) DOHC
Has about 160,000 on it
Issue I'm having:
Car turns but won't start
"Service Engine Soon" light is on
Tried to jump it (made sure to let it charge for awhile) to no avail
Was low on gas but was not empty -- we filled it up and it still won't turn
Specifically for this model, it is not the Security Bypass issue (where you reset it after 10 minutes)
Recent work history:
On 2/4/14, I took my car to the shop after the check engine light was blinking when I tried to go above 25mph:
Replaced Spark Plugs
Replaced Air Filter
Replaced Ignition Coil Pack
Replaced Spark Plug Boot (Coil to Plug)
Replaced Ignition Control Module
Replaced Fuel Filter
When I drove my car away, the "Check Engine Light" came on. Took it back, this is what they did:
Access computer for codes : "P0172 system to rich on bank 1"
They told me that there was a possible injector leaking down and recommended a fuel injector cleaning. They said I was ok to drive it for awhile and did not have to do it right that moment.
I did light driving on the car but left it in the burbs as I live in the city. When I moved five months later, I brought the car back to the city. I noticed my air conditioning was not working (will blow heat just fine but will not blow cold).
I changed my oil not long after bringing it to the city, in that same month. Besides the air conditioning, I haven't had any real issues and have done local driving through the city.
I took the car out on Friday, drove to Madison, and drove back the next day with no issues (300m trip). This morning we took the car out to the burbs to visit family (20m) -- now it won't start. What it could be?
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I have a 2003 grand prix. Sometimes when i am completely stopped at a light, then put my foot on the accelerator as it turns green, the engine will start accelerating but the car wont move for a second. It then jumps forward in a frightening way. It feels like the brakes don't completely disengage or maybe a belt is slipping. I also notice when I am driving and take my foot off the gas for a second and put it back on the RPMs will jump up about 1000. Im not an aggressive driver or anything at all.
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2005 Bonneville SE. 3.8 liter V6 46,000 miles.
I just purchased the car in September of 2013 and it's in great shape. Over the past couple of months, I have noticed every once in a while, it won't fire right away after turning over. To get it to start, I have to press down on the accelerator once or twice while cranking. The problem seems to occur when the engine is relatively warm. It seems to have no issues after the car has been sitting over night.
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