Pontiac :: 1990 - Won't Idle Below 60 Temp - RPMs Raises When Lights On?
Nov 3, 2012
1990 Lemans GSE 4 cyl 2 ltr gas. Starts quick but in temps less than 60 will not idle. When I turn lights, blower, wipers, flashers, fog lights etc on - it raises RPM's which allow this rascal to idle by itself. When warm, I can start turning off lights & stuff one at a time. Summer time it starts andidles normal. Once warm car runs smooth, although at times may chug (in witch case I just turn on my lights & it goes away). Have replaced: alternator (twice), idle speed control sensor (twice), spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotar, & computer box. This thing has been to 3 shops & 1 internet 'fixit' site.
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I have a 1990 Pontiac firefly with a 3 cyl automatic. It will not go into reverse and will shift 1st to 3rd when the car is cold. once it is warm it shifts fine. it is puzzling. When it is warm shifts are crisp solid. I am thinking it is not worn disks or band. I would like to get this fixed before winter sets in. I have a little more info now. If I shift into low it will shift into second, So I now have all three gears but still no reverse until it warms up. I don't seem to be getting any takers, and this is so odd.
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Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
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I just bought a second hand passat tdi se,1999, and need some pointers on a couple of problems/faults,the first is when I start up I get a beep and the temp light stays on until the car has warmed up, the second is no matter what I do I cant seem to get the blowers going, this model has the climate control and I was wondering if I am having a blond moment and missing the obvious or whether it's a fuse etc.
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My car has been having idling issues for about a year now. While idling the RPMs oscillate between 1 krpm and almost 0, with a frequency of about one oscillation per second. That got worse over time, and it started dying while idling too. I ignored the problem because it wasn't that bad, until a few weeks ago it died about 7 times on a 2 mile trip. (I developed a technique of using my right foot to press the gas and the brake simultaneously so I could come to a stop while keeping the engine going. But that only gets you so far.) I took it to a garage, they said I probably need a new IACV. Instead of having them do it, I just bought one and put it in myself. I'm not an experienced mechanic, but this seemed fairly easy; I'm pretty sure I didn't screw it up.
So, now it's displaying almost the exact same symptoms. It's not oscillating like it was before, but it's still dying pretty frequently, only on idle. I'd like to know if there's anything else I can try before I take it back to the shop.
A little more information about my car:- Replaced the motor about a year and half ago, put a few thousand miles since then. I don't know what other parts were replaced as part of the motor, but probably not many considering what I've had to replace. - Since the motor replacement, I've had the following replaced: rear main seal, clutch, distributor, distributor again, and water pump- The odometer reads 223k miles, but I don't know how many miles the new motor has. - 1990 Honda Civic LX 1.5L
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2003 Pontiac grand am 3.4 car cranks has great fuel pressure and spark will not start when ambient temp under 75 deg without hot shot then fine the rest of day..have replaced fuel pump map sensor cam sensor air temp sensor.
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With summer heating up so is the engine. Temp stays normal at freeway speeds but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic it shoots up. Water pump is two years old. I flushed the radiator and didn't get much gunk out. Both fans are running when the AC is on. If I shut the car off but leave the key on the fans do not run when the car is not. I can't remember if they used to or not.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1
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My wife has a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am, as seen above. The car recently started having issues, especially when cold, where the RPMs will rise when in gear but the car will not accelerate. It happened from 25 mph and lower while in a subdivision as well as around 45 mph on city streets. I have a feeling this is a transmission issue, but don't have much experience when it comes to transmissions.
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I have a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix. The needle on the temp gauge will float up and down after about five mins. of drive time...after a short period of time, however, it will settle around 200 degrees or so. (The heater will not blow warm air while the needle is floating.) The only time the needle starts to rise is when the vehicle is stopped in traffic, but even then, it never gets into the "red." The car never overheats and I have yet to see any coolant on the driveway.
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Why does my hyundai accent 2004 engine revs on motion by itself to the point of burning my clutch plate?
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Just acquired a 1990 celica gt at a steal lol and needing some troubleshooting answers. tonight was the first night we really had drove it, but my husband drove it to work which is an hour away and he noticed that when he comes to a stop the oil pressure light comes on. as soon as he starts to go again it goes off. the engine does not make any noises other than the typical 2200 lifter chatter and it does not leak oil.
We plan on doing an oil change so we are not sure if that could just be the issue or if it's something else. we had this issue with a dodge ram we had and it ended up being the oil pressure sending unit. he took the one off the car and it did need some tightening up but however when he put it back on the issue was still there.
We do not believe it's any low compression as the car cranks fine and normal with no rising of the cranking as you would get for a cylinder with low compression. we aren't really sure about the bearings because well that's not one of those things easily tested but the engine doesn't make a noise which I know at times you won't have one.
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I have a cold start problem with my camry. The engine has clocked 100k now. When ever i start the car in cold weather; it never starts for the first time. The second time when i start it, the engine stalls a bit and then the rpm raises upto 2. Also the rpm when the engine is cold remains less then 1.5.
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A few days ago the 12V battery of my Prius II went flat. We got the car to start by connecting it with the 12V battery of another car.
Since then we have got a problem when we raise the front glass on the driver side automatically: if we trigger it so that it automatically goes all the way to the top it will no longer stop at the highest position. It will instead raise to the top, then go back down and stop at the middle.
We can still raise the glass by manually using the button and stopping manually at the right moment.
I am guessing that the car does not "remember" what is the correct "highest position" of the glass, and that this memory was lost because of the battery discharge. Any way to "teach" this to the car again ?
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I noticed today that when im sitting still and i turn the wheel the car raises up a noticable amount in the front on the passenger side, Im not sure if the drivers side was moving or not. I have never noticed this before but maybe i just wasn't paying attention? FYI I have coilovers, I'm not sure that matters or not.
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My 90 lumina euro 3.1 has idle surge after it warms up. fluctuates between 600 and 1200 rpm when in drive. When you first get on the throttle it wants to die. Once you get past that it runs smooth while driving. Ive also notice that it tries to "buck" when its at lower rpm and barely on the throttle while pulling.
I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks, has recient tuneup, had a egr code and that has been replaced. I've cleaned the throttle body also. Previous owner had intake gaskets replaced as well as fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump.
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I recently acquired a 4.0 Ranger 4X4 Auto for my use in Costa Rica. It runs fine but it'll illuminate the CEL within a few seconds of starting and whenever revs fall below approx 1000. When pulling off the line or accelerating, the light will go out but comes back on when the throttle closes. The previous owner has replaced the MAF and idle air valve. I've corrected a lot of issues with the vacuum system and think it's back where it ought to be. I know I am going to need to pull the codes but I'm back in Dallas now and can't do it yet. Need general list of affected parts that I could buy here and take back down.
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I can not resolve a rough idle in gear when engine is warm problem. I've replaced plugs, wires, mounts, isc, o2 sensor, ecu, have no codes.
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1990 Buick Century w/3300 V6, fuel injection, less than 80,000 miles ... Vehicle may have had 200 miles p/yr put on it last 3 - 4 yrs. Was still regularly serviced. No previous problems no fluid leaks, clean motor.
Hesitated on hwy twice, wouldn't start after second hesitation, but did later & ran good. Wouldn't start for about 15 mins. after fueling once, but ran good when did start, had fuel pressure at sharder valve both times. Next trip after about 10 miles, started loosing power, finally quit, NO pressure at sharder valve. Towed in. Mechanic said ECM bad, changed it, ran idle, but would not accelerate, chk'd everything. Put different ECM in, same thing, idle, but won't accelerate, has chk'd fuel pressure, fuel regulator, ICM, CPS, everything can think of...
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Over the past month I've notice the idle speed increasing. Yesterday I had to turn the idle adjustment screw to lower the idle speed, as the high idle speed was making it difficult to drive in stop and go traffic. Especially if I took my foot off the gas while in gear, it would jerk rather than slowing down smoothly as it used to. I think the jerking was related to how the ECM stops the injectors completely when slowing down in gear, to improve mpg, then before the rpms gets too low, fire the injectors back up again. Anyway, lowering the idle speed with the adjustment screw fixed the jerking problem, for now.
But in 20 years, I've never had this occur before. The only time I've fiddled with the idle adjustment screw was during tune-ups, and then only had to adjust it 5-15 degrees. This time I had to turn it in 45 degrees. I expect there is unwanted air getting into the intake manifold somehow. And it will probably get worse. Here's some ideas -- in order of most likely to least likely -- I've had what could be causing it.
Throttle valve sticking in throttle body and needs a cleaning.
Throttle linkage needs a lube.
Canister purge valve is open during idle and allowing fumes from the canister into the intake manifold, when it shouldn't be.
Throttle position switch has failed.
Vacuum hose or device leaking.
IAC valve (part of throttle body in this car) is sticking.
ECM is bumping the idle speed through the vacuum controlled actuator (VSD). Unlikely, b/c the idle speed still increases when I turn the headlights on or I turn the steering wheel, both of which use this mechanism (I think).
Thermostat -- unlikely as it happens even when the coolant has reached 195 deg F (when the fan turns on).
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My truck out of nowhere will start to idle low and die when put in reverse or drive then on other days sometimes it will start and run right. I got the code 44 witch it could be a o2 sensor but tomorrow I'm getting my catalytic converter took off and run straight pipe do I still need a o2 sensor without a catalytic converter or what's causing lean exhaust?
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I picked up a 90 f150 with the 302. it wont idle without a little throttle, so after a quick look under the hood i noticed alot of broken torn and missing vacuum lines. Where I can get some sort of diagram for routing?
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