Plymouth - Voyager :: Vibration In Front End At 40 To 50 Speed
Apr 13, 2011
Vibration in front end at 40 to 50 new tires have been balanced and checked 4 times can run up past 50 and put in neutral and no vibration as it slows down...
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We have a 1999 Plymouth voyager that is wobbling bad, we have new tires all around and it's been aligned. Still can not get it to stop wobbling, what do we do now? We also replaced one wheel cylinder on one side too.
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My 1999 Plymouth Voyager smells like gas, really bad. I have taken it to my "car person" and he has tried everything he knows to find out what may be causing this. He has checked all the lines and even run pressure thru the lines to try and find a leak but hasn't. Yet the smell remains. It is really strong on the drivers side near my door. As my husband 90 ford ranger just recently caught fire while he was driving down the road and burned completely up I am more that worried about this happening to me. I am even afraid to park it in the garage most night. My mechanic did say he didn't find any leaks and especially any in the engine....so why does the smell stay???
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My voyager stalls when rpms are low--turns, backing up, stop signs etc.., RUNS FINE WHILE COLD!!!!!
Replaced fuel filter, iac, whats next!??? nothing shows up on computer - no error codes etc etc....
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The vehicle is a Plymouth Grand Voyager Expression, year 1999.
So we've tried to get this fixed in the past, we know a mechanic who has tried multiple times to fix this himself.
So here's the issue: All of the meters, lights, everything on the dashboard very rarely work(if they do they go back off while driving). If you hit the top of the dash hard enough, they will all sometimes come on and then go back off after an unpredictable amount of time.
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I have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager se about a year ago the transmission started acting up, for no reason, it would just go it to First and never come out I would stop turn it off turn it back on again and it would be fine..then days later it would go by, it would do it again. it did this for a while and the good days would turn in to a mile or two then it just decided not to come out of first ever, during this, i took it to a trany shop and rebuilt the transmission it worked for a bout a half hour.
Final a mechanic friend checked the computer again and changed it out with another and it fixed it beautifully!!! ok well about a week ago a very odd loud obnoxious squeal started that sounded like a bottle rocket but not all the time, more often than not though. Before I got a chance to take it to my mechanic friend i was driving along and the transmission slipped in to first and wont that's it. i have been doing emergency trips in first gear and also the horrid squeal is gone. the thing have to be linked what should I try and i don't think its the computer, I really don't want to lose my van
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I have a 96 Plymouth voyager my husband was driving it to work and he heard a knocking sound he pulled into a gas station where he put oil in it and had to fill up on gas when he went to turn it back on it wouldn't crank over didn't even. Make a sound like it was trying to crank I know I am due for a oil change but im not that much over..
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I am looking for some engine code one is 35,21,32,and 55 it a grand voger 1995. I been having transmission problem it will not shift up I been told it might be a speed sensor. My rpm seem to jump up down when it idle.
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My 1992 Plymouth voyager 3.3 won't start it turns over but no start days before it was stumbling and it would dye out when I got to a stop
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My 1992 Plymouth voyager 3.0 looses power when it gets hot I put a straight pipe thinking it was the catalytic converter and still doing the same thing also it backfires
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I have a grand voger 1995 and my transmission is not shifting up it stay in one gear. Why does it not shift and is it a easy fix?
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I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager with 230,000 miles that will quit running doesn't matter if I'm going slow through a parking lot or on the interstate. When going slow like backing up or through a parking lot I put it in P and restart it. Sometimes the engine light comes on, sometimes not. When traveling on road or interstate I mash on the gas and it restarts with turning the key. Some days it happens a lot, some days it doesn't happen at all.
I took to shop and they replace the MAP sensor but the next day it did it again. I took it back and they put replaced it thinking it was just a bad sensor. It still didn't fix the problem so I took to another shop and left it there for a week so they could drive it hoping that it would happen for them but apparently it not. They did replace the ground wire in the wiring harness but two days later it quit running again as I was rolling down the interstate.
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1st problem is shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd though, 2nd to 3rd is not as bad as from 1st to 2nd. It stumbles and gets really bad if I don't let up on the gas. After the initial shudder it will go into 2nd just fine. I also have to gun the gas a little bit when I first start the car, or it will just sit there and idle and never go into gear.
2nd and more annoying is that it stalls after driving around a bit. It happens on freeway or city. It doesn't stutter or anything the rpm's drop to 0 and it just stalls and won't start up for a 5 - 10 minutes or so.
Codes pulled are P0731, & P0736. The transmission was replaced about 2 years ago with a refurbished one. Could it be going out again already? The guy at Autozone suggested replacing the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor?) to see if that was the problem. I have not done this yet, but plan to.
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I have a 1991 Grand Voyager 3.3liter AWD minivan. It only has 80k original miles on it. It works totally fine sometimes, and then for no apparent reason, begins to lose power, as if it's not getting fuel. I can put my foot into the accelerator hard and it will likely correct itself in a few miles. If the cruise control is on, it will lose power...then regain it....then lose it....and so on, for many miles. The problem does not happen every time I drive, but most times. I have changed the fuel pump twice. each time it seemed fixed, but then the problem comes back. Most recently, It quit altogether, and I had to be towed home. I can start it now with starting fluid, but i suspect the fuel pump is out again. Another strange aspect of the problem is that this is my 2nd 1991 voyager, and the first had the same identical problems. I use it as a delivery van, and need to get it reliable...I've considered the ASD relay, or the fuel pump relay. I changed the fuel filter today to no avail. It currently won't start without ether.
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1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager - all the gauges tach, speedo, fuel, etc., do not function on a restart after about a drive of 20 miles or so. Where I should start looking?
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In cold weather the starter on occasion hesitates and acts like the timing is off. It has a new starter, new battery, new injectors, new head, new timing belt. Vehicle runs excellent, no coolant usage, no antifreeze vapor in the exhaust, excellent compression. Coolant system has been pressure checked. What could cause this?
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I have a 92 Plymouth Voyager, which I just got back from my son. He was driving it in Seattle for awhile, until it overheated. He had a new radiator and new thermostat put in, but it still overheated. I towed it back to my place to see if my daughter and I could get it running. The new radiator he had put in was leaking from a seam around the top. We replaced that with a new radiator.
I drove around for about 60 to 70 miles, into town and back. No problem. Today my wife and daughter took it to town and only made it about 2/3 of the way before it started to overheat. Daughter discovered a hole in the coolant reservoir. But I am still not sure what could be the reason for the overheating. I did replace the water pump about three years ago. What I can do to possibly repair this problem?
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I recently bought a used 1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager. The other day I went to start the van, and nothing happened- it clicked, and all the lights and horn were functioning, but it wouldn't turn over. I got under the car and found that the starter was hot, so I went to the auto parts store and bought a new starter. I put it in, and drove it home, and all was well. The next day I got on the highway and discovered that the van would not get out of limp mode- it wouldn't shift into a higher gear and the RPMs were building higher. I got off and took side streets home.
I disconnected the battery for a good while and re-connected it, and things were fine for a short while, but it developed the problem again.
I intend on checking the relays under the hood, checking electrical connections, and getting a trans fluid change soon. Is replacing the starter at all related to the limp mode issue?
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My grand voyager 1997 plymouth 3.3 looses fuel pressure overnight... It won't start until I crank it for 5 min or longer... I checked with fuel gauge tester, and while it runs it reads 50lbs, after hours it drops to 0 ... Injectors don't leak ... What's up with this van?
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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I'm hoping to see if there is another solution here. I just hit 100k on my .:R and it has developed a vibration that increase with speed front right. I have done a few things already including the following: swapped out winter wheels for summer, had summer wheels re-balanced (both are hub centric). Both lower control arm bushings on L&R side (both were original), new ball joint front right (it was wiped), new hub assembly/wheel bearing front right, re-torqued all the sub frame bolts to spec, inspected tie rod end - appears OK, inspected strut mount - appears OK, strut and coil appear OK, neither CV boot is not torn. replacing the wheel bearing made it quieter but the vibration is still there. It feels like the worst possible unbalanced wheel and the vibration is exaggerated under a load. I'd try a CV next but I'm having a hard time sourcing a front right CV.
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