Plymouth :: 1963 - Overheated When Driving / Coolant Loss
Sep 13, 2011
Several years ago my '63 Valiant had some overheating issues, which I resolved with some stop-leak. This weekend, feeling neglectful, I washed her, added a quart of oil, and added some premixed coolant. That evening when I drove it, it overheated. I know, if it ain't broke, don't fix it, but now what do I do? It's obviously lost coolant. I'm leaning towards putting more stop leak and more coolant, but I don't want to make things worse. I'd rather not have to replace the radiator right now, but I will if I have to.
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I lose power in my 97 Plymouth Breeze when driving up hills. Drives fine everywhere else but I lose power going uphill. Replaced the plugs and wires.
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I got my 40k service and many other things done Friday. I was super happy until monday my car got hit in the driver rear quarter panel and bumper. then wednesday teh car has a message saying coolant overheated. Today they told me the coolant got all over the engine and that the timing belt needs to get replaced because of this and that the reason was the thermostat got stuck shut. NOw its about $900 repair.
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-We have a 99 Buick with 38,000 miles. At 30,000 miles the car overheated and we had to find a mechanic in unfamiliar area. He told us car was unsafe to drive unless we had new radiator system installed (water pump, radiator flush, pressure test, radiator system flush, radiator kit (premium), anti-freeze - 2 gallons, lower and upper radiator hoses) at a cost of almost $1200.
FYI the car is in Florida full time - under cover.
Recently the "low coolant" signal has come on and after checking with a local mechanic, he said the manifold gasket was leaking and it could be fixed for about $600. We are reluctant to spend that money unless we can feel somewhat certain that the main problem is solved. We understand that at some point there was a class action suit against GM because of problems with Dex-Cool which is the required coolant for GM cars. In the meantime, we have been adding plain water to the reserve tank but are very concerned that this may cause additional damage. There is never any leakage under the car.
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Today was the first time my wagon has stranded me due to a mechanical issue. During city driving my coolant temp light came on so I pulled over to check it out. The fans appeared to be working, the coolant was a fair bit above the normal mark, but I'm not sure the water pump was running. I couldn't feel anything when I squeezed the top radiator hose. This is an '03 with about 50k miles on it.
I'll be taking it in Monday morning so I was curious what people's thoughts were. If it's the water pump is there anything else I should consider getting replaced while I'm at it? I'm still on the original timing belt, a change I've been delaying a long time since I drive so little so it might be time to bite the bullet and do it.
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I have a 2001 Plymouth neon and the coolant fan cuts on and off about every 30 seconds .
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I work for for a non-profic organization. We have a 95 nissan 2.4L pickup, and one of the guys drove a fair distance while overheating because of a coolant leak. He did not quite make if back before the truck died. At first I offered to do the work on it thinking maybe it just needed a new head gasket and some machining on the head surface. But I did a compression test and 2 cylinders were around 30 and the other 2 around 40psi. Also there is coolant in the oil.
Given that the pressure is so low do you think there is much of a chance that the head is not completely warped and needs to be replaced. Is it unlikely that there would be damage to the bottom of the engine, cylinder walls, pistons or warped block? I know one cannot say for sure until the head is removed but I would like to avoid wasting the time because if the truck needs a new head or worse they are gonna just junk it.
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I drove an Avante 09. Recently, my car was breakdown due to engine overheated, as radiator coolant is dry out and noticed there is a hole in in the pipe and hence cause leakage in the system. As the breakdown was happened in johor bahru, I have no choice but towed my car to hyundai msia dealer workshop in JB. However, after they check, they refuse to repair it due to the reason they do not have the spare parts, as my version is 1600cc and msia version is 2000cc.
Thereafter, I towed my car to the workshop in JB, recommend by my friend in JB. After they checking, the said my engine block is made of aluminum, very easy get out of shape when overheated. They say by changing the headset parts will not completely solved the problem, said to completely solve the issue must changed the engine block. To me, by changing the engine block equivalent changing the whole engine, am i correct?
Any bro here facing engine overheated due to dry out of coolant? Can cause such a big issue? In fact I am a bit doubt on their diagnosis. I don't really think the overheat will cause the engine block damage.
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I have a 92 Plymouth Voyager, which I just got back from my son. He was driving it in Seattle for awhile, until it overheated. He had a new radiator and new thermostat put in, but it still overheated. I towed it back to my place to see if my daughter and I could get it running. The new radiator he had put in was leaking from a seam around the top. We replaced that with a new radiator.
I drove around for about 60 to 70 miles, into town and back. No problem. Today my wife and daughter took it to town and only made it about 2/3 of the way before it started to overheat. Daughter discovered a hole in the coolant reservoir. But I am still not sure what could be the reason for the overheating. I did replace the water pump about three years ago. What I can do to possibly repair this problem?
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My radiator gave way on the highway, and by the time I noticed it the temp had maxed out the gauge and all the coolent was gone. So, I only have 90k on my '94 Camry and I'm debating whether to tackle repairs and perhaps a rebuild if necessary. What's the likelihood that there's damage to the rings, bore, crank, valves, etc due to the overheat? How much repair am I potentially looking at and what can I check without a tear-down? I'd like to get it running again since I just invested in new struts, brake calipers and MS and tires (not to mention that it has been pretty-much worry-free until now), but I want to know whether it's even worth my while.
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I have a 1996 Plymouth Breeze and its been a pretty trustworthy car for the last few years. Lately however I have noticed a gurgling sound coming from the coolant reservoir whenever it the thermostat gauge hits about 50%. It cools right back down to a little over 25% and the sound goes away. I don't think its a leak in my head gasket as there is not any oil in my coolant or coolant in my oil, and its not over heating.
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My '97 F250 5.4L is pumping coolant on to the top of the motor which is burning off causing it to smoke like it's overheated but the temp gauge is operating in normal range. I'm losing coolant but can't see where. It's not going to the ground. It just pools up on the top of the motor. I've already replaced the water pump in the last 2 weeks because of the same issue. It stopped for a few days but now it's back again. Bad water pump from O'Reily's or is there some other issue here? I've checked while the motor's running and can't see where the coolant is coming from and there's no coolant coming out of the bleed hole in the top of the new water pump. I need this truck up and running.
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Traveling down the freeway doing about 80 the truck starts to sputter and then cuts off lose all power and gauges then Cuts back on rap back smoked out the back huge amount as I never seen before engine fully cuts off and lose all power no restart pull over the side pop the hood Reservoir has a blown coolant everywhere engine very hot get it towed home engine won't crank very well let it cool off more recharge batteries engine it only spent about 60 80 RPMs.
I have a fail CPS/ cam motion position sensor code coming up. Pull the valve cover and all rails off the both sides to check lifters and rods and everything seems normal and in place. My question is have I spun a bearing or is there something I went out worse checked EGR sensor and everything seems normal hasn't been steamed out or anything so I don't think it's a EGR or cooler. Also checked oil normal color no water. Also could it been a water pump going bad that made my reservoir let go and not egr or cooler?
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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My '01 Super Duty 5.4 has an overheating/heater problem that the dealer can't seem to fix. I noticed my heater was blowing cold then a few miles later it overheated pushing coolant out of cap. Next day drove fine to Ford dealer who replaced my heater core, thermostat, reservoir cap and a hose. Drove it for a day till the exact original symptoms occurred again with a gurgling sound in dash. Dealer kept for a week pressurizing system but no leaks found. Replaced my thermostat again and gave it back. I drove it 300 miles over a week before the exact same symptoms occurred. Brought back to dealer who said that air was in the system, added a bunch of coolant and supposedly got all the air out. Same symptoms still. Brought back to dealer that finally changed the water pump they said had a leak. Guess what, same symptoms. Heater will work fine for days then it will blow cold, then hot, then cold and sooner or later truck will overheat then just as fast cool down and heater will work again. Still hearing gurgling. Dealer said I don't have a HCV.
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I have a 96 Plymouth voyager my husband was driving it to work and he heard a knocking sound he pulled into a gas station where he put oil in it and had to fill up on gas when he went to turn it back on it wouldn't crank over didn't even. Make a sound like it was trying to crank I know I am due for a oil change but im not that much over..
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I have a 96 Plymouth Voyager with 230,000 miles that will quit running doesn't matter if I'm going slow through a parking lot or on the interstate. When going slow like backing up or through a parking lot I put it in P and restart it. Sometimes the engine light comes on, sometimes not. When traveling on road or interstate I mash on the gas and it restarts with turning the key. Some days it happens a lot, some days it doesn't happen at all.
I took to shop and they replace the MAP sensor but the next day it did it again. I took it back and they put replaced it thinking it was just a bad sensor. It still didn't fix the problem so I took to another shop and left it there for a week so they could drive it hoping that it would happen for them but apparently it not. They did replace the ground wire in the wiring harness but two days later it quit running again as I was rolling down the interstate.
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My mechanic put in a button starter which works pretty good. It is "touchy" and I need to hit the gas just right to get it to catch. Once it starts it runs beautifully but the battery seems to drain instead of charge while driving. When I turn the car off,and then try to start it again, the battery sounds really low, and often dies before I can get it to turn over again. It fires right up with the first sign of a jump. The mechanic has looked for an ignition (says he cant find the right one). Other people have suggested an alternator or voltage regulator....or a short somewhere.
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I have a 95 neon SOHC that drives with a very high Idle. Not all the time, but 85% of the time witch i find strange. This has been going on for the better part of a year and the car is almost undrivable. Its putting a hurting on my breaks for sure.
I had replaced the PCM 5 years ago. Replaced the timing belt 2 months ago. I have searched all around for vacuum leaks but am not able to find anything. I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned it very well. I replaced the IAC.
The car continues to idle out of control as if the IAC is wide open. The only way to get the car to idle correctly is to cover the idle hole in the throttle body 90% up with my finger. The guy at Auto Zone said if its not IAC or vacuum hoses, then I should start replacing sensors. How do I diagnose this problem?
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Do I buy an engine or sell the car for parts? My son’s car overheated while driving down the hwy due to a radiator leak. After a first and second opinion, two separate mechanics told me the engine has no compression so basically was shot. The car was in good shape with 102k miles and everything worked. Internet surfing has some used engines with 80-100k miles from $800-$1200, some guaranteed some not. Is it better to rebuild the original engine or buy another used one? Labor cost on top of an engine wont be cheap. Are other parts under the hood expected to be replaced too as a result of the engine overheating?
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Took 1963 GT Hawk in for front end alignment and check and check tightness of all suspension tightness; now power steering does not work. no problems before.
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