Pickup - Nissan :: Jerk-feel Like Trying To Start In 3rd Gear Instead Of First
Apr 27, 2011
We have a Nissan Pickup that anytime (in every gear) that the truck reaches 2700 rpm it begins to jerk-feels like you're trying to start it in 3rd gear instead of first. We have had it in a shop with someone who just repairs Nissan's and have been unable to find the problem for over a year. Have looked at the catalytic converter, fuel pump, and air flow meter...nothing has worked...
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I have a 91 Nissan pick up that is just making a clicking noise upon trying to start it. I replaced the battery. The inside light works, radio works, dash clock works, but still just clicking upon trying to start. Is there a clutch safety switch that could cause this, or starter, or ???
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I have a 95 nissan pickup V6 hardbody and speedometer goes in and out when it is out i just pound on dash and it will work. I took it apart and put white gauges on it and cleaned the connectors with electric spray. Put back together and it's still doing the same thing. But now when I hit dash it dosent work. Check engine light does come on if it don't work. But it did before till I pounded the dash then it went out.
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have a 1997 nissan pickup 2.4 liter engine check engine light came on code say number 2 cylinder misfiring put in shop. they say that they can't get to misfire.truck run great.just that light keep coming on with code (p o 302)
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(code p.o.302) number 2 cylinder misfiring. 1997 nissian pickup 2.4 liter automatic. when I take truck out on highway check engine light come on with code p.0.302.when I get back to town. and cut truck off for maybe 20 minute. check engine light go off automatic I do not have to use a scan tool to erase. As long as I am in town light. say off. when I get back on highway check engine light come back on. have had 3 mechanic look at this they can't get it to misfire. they tell me the fuel and spark are doing what they support to do..do you think maybe computer bad. has 255,000 miles
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Coolant temperature gauge bounce up and down.
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I have a 95 nissan pickup V6. The speedometer stopped working today and engine light came on. truck sat there while I was working and went back out to it. Started truck back up and engine light was still on. As soon as I put it into gear the engine light went off and speedometer started working again. What it could be. It's a 2wd not 4wd
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I have an 86 Nissan pickup with a z24 motor in it, yes the weird 4 cyl. With 8 plugs. It has been lurching when I let off the throttle or sometimes when I accelerate. Its been doing it for a year and won't do it all the time it is intermittent but does it more then it doesn't.
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My AC blows cold for a little while, then it blows warm. If I wait and turn it back on the cycle repeats it self. I had the freon filled. Not sure what to do? 1997 nissan pickup....
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1995 pickup truck 2.4 liter 4 cal 4WD. I have a new problem- I drove out to a favorite spot in the mountains (up a dusty road) and when I got to the end of the road my truck was suddenly idling REALLY rough. I was able to drive it home and it runs "OK" as long as you stay on the gas (I say OK but it does want to die and especially wants to die after it warms up and then harder to restart until it cools)- as soon as you let off the gas the idle is on the extreme side of rough. It did not act like a fuel filter has historically (hesitate when giving gas), but I had a filter so I replaced the fuel filter anyway.
I also pulled the air duct work and cleaned it all out, put a new air filter in and used CRC MAF sensor cleaner on the MAF sensor. I did pour in a Chevron fuel system cleaner but it would likely take a tank full at least to work and it does not run good enough to run a tank full through. I put in all new plugs (gapped) and checked resistance on the plug wires and cap- all seems to be acceptable. I checked all the vacuum lines and did replace a couple that were dry and crumbly. I am now at a loss,
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I work for for a non-profic organization. We have a 95 nissan 2.4L pickup, and one of the guys drove a fair distance while overheating because of a coolant leak. He did not quite make if back before the truck died. At first I offered to do the work on it thinking maybe it just needed a new head gasket and some machining on the head surface. But I did a compression test and 2 cylinders were around 30 and the other 2 around 40psi. Also there is coolant in the oil.
Given that the pressure is so low do you think there is much of a chance that the head is not completely warped and needs to be replaced. Is it unlikely that there would be damage to the bottom of the engine, cylinder walls, pistons or warped block? I know one cannot say for sure until the head is removed but I would like to avoid wasting the time because if the truck needs a new head or worse they are gonna just junk it.
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Have air trap in coolant after water pump replace.cannot get it out. Do I need to drain coolant again and start over. 1997 nissan pickup 2.4 liter.
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my mechanic is stump have a 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto tranny. number 2 cylinder misfiring.my mechanic say it have fuel, spark. and he did a compression check say compression is good. code (p. o 302) keep coming on. he change spark plug and wire and distributor cap and rotor. but light keep coming on. he say the only other thing he can think may be is. to change the whole distributor he say the cam sensor is in the distributor. tuck have 264,000 mile on it.
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Two wheel drive, small engine with two spark plugs per cylinder...clutch with five speed transmission. Over two hundred thousand miles on it. Drove it thirty miles on a rainy evening. Shut it off for about one hour and when I tried to restart, it just went click. Got towed thirty miles home. Replaced starter with brand new one and also new battery. Still nothing but click-click. Does start from clutch engagement when rolling. The trouble seems to be somewhere between the starter and the battery. What to do?
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The accelerator pedal on my 1993 Nissan pickup occassionally "sticks". Mainly when I'm leaving a (stop-sign/red light, etc) or if I let off pedal (in traffic etc) then push on it again to accelerate. I've changed the throttle cable (had a brand new one from brother in law...still in packing). I took it to Nissan dealership few years ago and they couldn't figure it out, same with a (highly recommended) local shop.
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I have a 95 Nissan pick-up truck that is blowing white smoke from the tail pipe, sounds like a choo-choo train, and has visible liquid dripping from the same. What is the problem???
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I have a 1996 Nissan Pickup that has been making a clanking noise (that's progressively gotten worse over time) in the steering column every time I go over a bump in the road. The sound is coming from the area between the steering wheel and the dashboard. It sounds like metal hitting metal. The steering seems to be functioning normally, other than the annoying noise. What's causing this?
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97 Nissan Pick Up, 5 speed manual, 192k. The specified oil is 75w90. When it was new, I drained to factory fill out and refilled it with Mobil one 75w90 synthetic and a bottle of Slick 50 for Manual Transmissions (I do not use Slick 50 in the motor). This has worked very well for me in past transmissions. Anyway, at around 160k, I would hear an occasional whine when at a steady 55 mph on level ground. If the road grade changed or I changed speed, it would go away.
At the 180k oil change, I decided to check the the transmission oil level. It was bone dry. The capacity is 2.1 qts and it took 2.1 qts to fill it. I filled it with Mobil One 75w90 again. I have checked it at each oil change and so far, it hasn't lost any oil since I filled it. I still have the whine at 55 mph on level ground and it still goes away with any pitch or speed change.
Now my question, would there be any benefit to switching to a synthetic 75w140 or a conventional 85w140? I'm thinking that the 75w140 wouldn't change anything but the 85w140 might.
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1997 King Cab XE Pickup... Over the last couple of years, a noise comes from the dash of my pickup at speeds above about 30MPH, especially during acceleration. It is especially bad when I drop from 5th to 4th gear to pass someone (worse on a hill, extra load) but quiets some when going back to 5th gear (never completely goes away). What is making this noise??
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I'm trying to resolve a nagging brake problem on my 98 Pathfinder. In short, braking power is weaker than it should be, but I do not have sponginess in the brake pedal. I've bled the whole system a few times, and even changed the master cylinder - to no avail.
While performing a few tests lately, I noticed the following behavior: if I drive up a steep hill and start pumping the brake pedal with the left foot while keeping the right foot on the gas (to keep moving uphill), the pedal gets progressively harder to press and braking action diminishes accordingly. If feels a bit like when you switch the engine off with the car still moving (in neutral) and try to brake: as the vacuum in the booster gets expended, the pedal gets harder and braking action diminishes dramatically.
I don't think this is related to the act of going uphill; it's just that this is the only way the engine can develop enough vacuum for the symptom to occur.
This leads me to wonder if I have a vacuum leak somewhere (either in the line or in the booster itself) that only happens at higher vacuum pressures...
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My 2010 SL rogue's brakes seem to be extremely spongy/floaty. When stopping I need to push the brakes pedal all the way down before it'll come to a complete stop. It feels like I'm pushing air out. Just got her back from bthe repair shop, and had been driving a rent a car(2015 Ford focus) and the difference between the braking is night/day.
Checked the brakes fluid and its just a hair under max line. Was under the impression that the break pads were replaced a year ago. Best obvious answer I can figure out(google) is possibly air in the brake lines?
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