I have a 98 chevy truck and shortly after the mechanic put brakes on my truck, when I start it you cannot get it out of park. In fact sometimes when I can't get it out of park when I shut it off I have trouble removing the key from the ignition. I've found that when I want to start it I turn the key one notch put the truck in neutral and continue starting. At this point all works correct.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1996 Chevy pickup with a 5.7 motor. I pulled the plug, oil is draining and I usually lift the hood; but this time I didn't (don't know why). Something came up and we had to leave quickly and we jumped in the truck and got 1/8 mile down the road, I pulled the plug on the oil. Turned around and parked it - the oil filter was still in - so there should of been some oil in there!?!? Do I need to be concerned that I damaged anything?
View 10 Replieshaving problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
I was driving down the interstate and sped up to pass a car once I started to slow down the CES light came on and the truck started to shutter really bad. I got it to a scanner and it said misfire Cylinder 6 and he suggested that i change the cap rotor plugs and wires since it has been a long time since it had been done. I did so and and the problem has continues. It idles real rough acts like it is going to die, then under power it smooths out a little but you can still tell it it where. Above 3000 the CES blinks until you slow down and the the scanner still says misfire cylinder 6.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Chevrolet Prizm that will not fast idle when it is started in cold weather the first thing in morning. what could be the problem?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Chevy K1500 4x4 which is experiencing issues on two fronts: brakes and general operation.
For the brakes, over the last couple years, we have replaced just about every part of the system, including - master cylinder - calipers - brake lines. In addition, in the last week, I worked with a local mechanic to bleed the lines and he turned the rotors as well. The result is that while the truck does stop, the pedal height is still really high and feels like there's no pressure until the pedal's nearly to the floor. I get the feeling that if I needed to stop abruptly or at a higher speed than 35mph, I wouldn't be able to. I'm not sure what needs to happen next.
As to the general operation: the first time I start the truck on any given day, it fires up and runs smoothly. If I take it across town, however, and put it in the park, it gasps, sputters, and dies. It is then very difficult to get the vehicle to start again--usually, I have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and grind the starter until the engine turns over. After that, I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for 15-30 seconds at around 3000 RPM as the truck shudders and lurches, until it smooths out. Once I put it into drive or reverse, however, it dies, unless I am quick to push the accelerator again. Until recently, the truck had only been driven four times in the last two years or so. So far, I have: - replaced the air filter - added fresh gas (to the old) - added an engine treatment (Sea-Foam) Everything I have done is stuff that needs to be taken care of anyway, and I want to take care of all the little things before I take it to a dealership to have a full diagnostic run on it. I also plan to have an oil change done on it this week.
When I start my truck, the headlights come on automatically. Because of this, they get alot of wear. Are they getting dimmer with wear or not? How often should I change the headlights .
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 Chevy S10 Extended Cab Pickup 4 Cyl 102K miles went dead immediately after pulling out of my parking space. Went about 10 yards and all of the sudden the engine, power, dash lights, everything shut down, requiring me put into Neutral and push to side of the road. One minute later, it started up just fine and got me through the day with no further problems. The NEXT day, on first attempt, I turn the key half way and all power and dash lights come on, but as soon as I try to turn the engine over, everything went dead and remains that way. It is currently in this state. I replaced the battery 4 months ago.
View 2 RepliesSo my dads truck is a 87 2.2 throttle body 4cyl and it cuts out and dies while accelerating and I have no clue what is going on we are thinking bad fuel filter or starving for air....
View 1 RepliesI am trying to understand why my truck will not accelerate until it has warmed up some...
View 5 Replies1995 pickup truck 2.4 liter 4 cal 4WD. I have a new problem- I drove out to a favorite spot in the mountains (up a dusty road) and when I got to the end of the road my truck was suddenly idling REALLY rough. I was able to drive it home and it runs "OK" as long as you stay on the gas (I say OK but it does want to die and especially wants to die after it warms up and then harder to restart until it cools)- as soon as you let off the gas the idle is on the extreme side of rough. It did not act like a fuel filter has historically (hesitate when giving gas), but I had a filter so I replaced the fuel filter anyway.
I also pulled the air duct work and cleaned it all out, put a new air filter in and used CRC MAF sensor cleaner on the MAF sensor. I did pour in a Chevron fuel system cleaner but it would likely take a tank full at least to work and it does not run good enough to run a tank full through. I put in all new plugs (gapped) and checked resistance on the plug wires and cap- all seems to be acceptable. I checked all the vacuum lines and did replace a couple that were dry and crumbly. I am now at a loss,
Our 18 yr old grandson has a 1998 Dodge Ram pickup that dies when he turns. Was told that
1) either the wiring harness to the oil pressure sensor is rubbing OR
2) the oil pressure sensor needs to be replaced -
QUESTION: Where is this located? Is it hard / expensive to replace?
My 1970 chevy c10 pickup is a 350 with automatic transmission 2wd. It doesn't get driven frequently and when I do the first time I put it into gear, fwd or reverse, it is slow to engage. Shortly after it has warmed up however, this problem goes away. What this sounds like?
View 6 RepliesA friend is stumped by a problem with his truck, so I thought I might get some insight here. I haven't actually seen the truck, all that follows is from what he described, I'm just the messenger here.
The truck had been running fine on a used engine installed about six months ago. Then he ran it out of gas, it hasn't run properly since. It cranks fine, but won't start. He says it WILL start when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body, but only while the starting fluid is supplied. He also says he disconnected the fuel line somewhere near the engine, cranked the engine, and got good fuel supply (but no fuel pressure gauge reading). He's done some logical things: new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. No luck. Figuring that he'd sucked something ugly into the injectors, he decided to replace those with no change (yes, I cautioned him about throwing expensive parts at it with no clear reason).
He reasons that he must be getting spark based on the engine running with starter fluid, and there must be fuel based on his test with the open fuel line, so he thinks it's an electronic problem, presumably the signal to the injectors. This is out of my league...and my friend is a carpenter, not a mechanic. If he could get a scanner would this kind of problem register a code?
My husbands GMC truck has an occasional ticking noise coming from the engine area. The noise happens when you crank up although it doesn't always happen. It will sometimes go several weeks without ticking/clicking. When it does start, the sound usually goes away after the truck "warms up" for a minute. The ticking/clicking does not change pattern when you accelerate. The mechanic said it just needed an oil change, but my husband has made sure to check the oil.
View 2 RepliesMy 1985 Toyota Pickup (manual shift) is stalling out when I put the truck in neutral or don't shift quickly enough. The battery light comes on after stalling followed by the oil light. After stalling, it does start back up and repeats the same problem. If I keep my foot on the gas and the truck in gear, it runs. I'm new to DIY repairs, and bought this truck for the purpose of learning more. I know the basics, am mechanically inclined, have a repair manual, and am a quick learner.
View 4 RepliesMy 94 truck (Toyota 6 cylinder 3VZ engine) is currently idling at ~2000 when I first start the engine. After warming up or driving for a substantial amount of time, this eventually drops to ~1000-1100. I had the throttle body removed and cleaned (twice). This stopped some up-and-down revving which was happening, but not the high idling. This is a relatively recent development, and I've gone to 3 mechanics AND the dealer, all of whom say, 'it's fine'. They say it should run 'a little higher when it's cold'.
I think some of these assessments were based on the simple lack of engine error messages (no codes from the computer = no problem). I admit that I'm no expert, but I've had the truck for a decade; I know what's 'fine' and what's not. The usual idle was ~800 (in agreement with specs) and I've driven this truck in temps down to -30F. It has never idled this high before. Since it gets close to normal RPMs after warming up, I don't want to turn the idle adjustment down. I moved from a very cold, very dry climate at 6000 ft to a very wet, moderately cold climate at sea level - is there some other adjustment I need to make? Or is it normal for this engine to run so differently in these two climates? I'm at the end of my rope since no one thinks it's a problem except me.
My father passed down his 1973 Chevy C-10 pickup truck to me and my family. It's been our 'runner' truck for many years going to the mountains for wood, lumber from the store, garbage and yard debris...etc. Unfortunately, it recently has been starting and warming up just fine, but once it's running as I'm driving away from stops or even holding speed on the highway the power 'fades' from the engine and it lugs like it is in gear, but flooded and lurches as the engine seems to 'catch up'. I have replaced the carb(holly quadrajet), fuel pump, fuel filters, battery, fuel lines, throttle cable, distributor cap (ceramic piece too), alternator and more...we still can't get it figured out. NOW the truck won't start or turn over - have we reached the end of it's life no matter what we do? What is left to replace? I don't think we can afford much more $ to fix it. We also found that somehow water was in the gas tank, which we think was from a kid in the neighborhood messing around. Could that have made a permanent issue?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 Santa Fe with only 8k on it and the suspension sounds like a 10 year old pickup truck when I drive on any uneven surface under 30mph. I took it to the dealer who said that sounded normal. After going on a test drive with me he said that he did hear something on the passenger front clunking. He replaced the end link on that side and said that they normally wear out at around 15k. He checked the torque on all the other suspension bolts and said that was all he could do. It seems a little bit better, but it still sounds horrible at low speeds. I don't hear the knocking at highway speeds when I hit any bumps. What it can be? It feels like the struts are hoping or crashing over the bumps instead of absorbing them. My 10 year old Ford Explorer drove nicer than this. When I told the tech that my cheapo 2010 Nissan Versa doesn't make this noise when driven on the same roads he said that the Nissan was a much better car than the Hyundai. Did we make a horrible choice buying this thing?
View 41 RepliesMy '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.