Pickup - Chevrolet :: 1973 - While Driving Away From Stops / On Highway Power Fades?
Oct 25, 2011
My father passed down his 1973 Chevy C-10 pickup truck to me and my family. It's been our 'runner' truck for many years going to the mountains for wood, lumber from the store, garbage and yard debris...etc. Unfortunately, it recently has been starting and warming up just fine, but once it's running as I'm driving away from stops or even holding speed on the highway the power 'fades' from the engine and it lugs like it is in gear, but flooded and lurches as the engine seems to 'catch up'. I have replaced the carb(holly quadrajet), fuel pump, fuel filters, battery, fuel lines, throttle cable, distributor cap (ceramic piece too), alternator and more...we still can't get it figured out. NOW the truck won't start or turn over - have we reached the end of it's life no matter what we do? What is left to replace? I don't think we can afford much more $ to fix it. We also found that somehow water was in the gas tank, which we think was from a kid in the neighborhood messing around. Could that have made a permanent issue?
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I have a 1996 Chevy pickup with a 5.7 motor. I pulled the plug, oil is draining and I usually lift the hood; but this time I didn't (don't know why). Something came up and we had to leave quickly and we jumped in the truck and got 1/8 mile down the road, I pulled the plug on the oil. Turned around and parked it - the oil filter was still in - so there should of been some oil in there!?!? Do I need to be concerned that I damaged anything?
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My 2001 Chevy S10 Extended Cab Pickup 4 Cyl 102K miles went dead immediately after pulling out of my parking space. Went about 10 yards and all of the sudden the engine, power, dash lights, everything shut down, requiring me put into Neutral and push to side of the road. One minute later, it started up just fine and got me through the day with no further problems. The NEXT day, on first attempt, I turn the key half way and all power and dash lights come on, but as soon as I try to turn the engine over, everything went dead and remains that way. It is currently in this state. I replaced the battery 4 months ago.
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I am having trouble with my Chevrolet Aveo 2009 A/C. After driving for a while on the highway, the A/C stops blowing much air at low fan and when I increase the fan speed, it blows more air while making a whistling noise but not as much air as it usually does on that same fan speed. The noise starts going away after a while and it blows as much air as it should.I noticed that it happens more when I keep accelerating every now and then on the highway.
It does not happen as much when I am driving on a constant speed. I took it to the dealership and they said the filter was dirty and they found a leak on the vaporizer cap, fixed those but nothing changed! What might be the cause? I was researching the issue and came across this ""TPS (throttle position sensor) gives the WOT (wide open throttle) signal to the PCM to momentarily cut off power to the A/C clutch which disengages the A/C"...Could that be the issue?
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Have a 2007 jetta. A/C works well. However when highway driving the air stops blowing into cabin as if someone had shut all vents. When slow down, problem goes away. Took it to dealer and they have no clue.
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97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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So I have a very confusing problem. In my 92 Chevy Astro the battery occasionally stops charging runs down and dies while I am driving and will not restart via jump but must be fully charged. This first happened a couple months and several thousand miles ago but has occurred 3 times in the last two weeks. Both the battery and the alternator have checked out good, and the alternator belt is tight as a drum. What could this possibly be?
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My husband has a 2009 Chevy Aveo, he's had several issues lately, split radiator hoses, an oil pan issue and now he says it's decelerating when he's driving on the highway, the engine doesn't rev when he presses the gas pedal, we can't afford a new car but he's afraid to drive an iffy car through the winter on a somewhat long commute?
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I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer LS 4WD 95K miles that had an incident in 2008 where the oil pressure dropped to zero while driving down the highway. I immediately pulled over and had the vehicle towed to a dealership. They pulled the oil pan off and let me know the lower part of the motor was "toast." (crankshaft had turned blue due to heat from no oil.) Mysteriously it has oil pressure now, why that is. It started last time I tried about 4 years ago.
I dearly loved this vehicle. It was first car I bought and paid for myself and I planned on repairing it one day. It's been sitting in My garage for the last 8 years. Recently, my daily driver died and I was faced with repairing the Blazer or buying a new vehicle. Since I don't know how well the Blazer has fared sitting in the garage all these years, I decided repair wasn't worth it at this time for a vehicle I needed to be dependable and I just bought a new vehicle.
So here's the thing. I kept the Blazer really clean. Washed it all the time, no damage, Regular oil changes, the works. It still smells like a new car inside. I really don't want to see it get crushed and I'd like to see it go to a good home. It might need more work than a new motor since it's been sitting so long, but I can't imagine it would be more than someone mechanically inclined could handle. I'd get a new engine, but I don't have the cash and I need the garage space.
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Okay....I have an 01 blazer 6 cylinder 4.3. For a while it was missing fairly bad until I had the distributor replaced and the problem went away for about 2 months. Now it seems to have the same problem again so I am wondering if that wasn't the real problem. Here is what is going on. The tac needle bounces and it feels like the engine is misfiring. When I am driving on the highway sometimes the CEL starts flashing. Sometimes it stops and sometimes it doesn't. Plus now it feels like when it changes gears it's lurching. It only does that sometimes. The odd part is there seems to be no distinguishable pattern to the lurching. I think the misfire could be just the timing needs to be adjusted.
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I have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
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'98 Chevy Lumina. Driving at Highway speed, I hear a short rattle. Makes me think of linkages vibrating, from the passenger area. Few minutes later I hear it again. Few minutes later I look down to see me thermostat at 240+. I watch it redline, hold for a few minutes, then the rattle again and my temp goes down to 160 or so. All of this happens at 60 mph, in 45 degree weather.
Rinse, repeat about every 10-15 minutes. I notice that while the engine temp is climbing, I have no hot air from the vents and after the rattle and temp drop I do have hot air. Check the block when I get home and I see the familiar green puddles. So is this: Water pump, the apparent source of the leaks, heater core causing back pressure to leak at the hose, or the ever dreaded head gasket?
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I have recently purchased a 1973 dodge sportsman motorhome. I went to change the battery because the one in it was too small. After replacing the battery I have no power to anything at all and it wont even try to crank. When I put the new battery in I noticed a smaller red wire with a flat plug on one end hanging loose. Where does this go and what is it for? the new battery has full juice but I have no power to anything. No lights no radio....nothing!
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When I start my truck, the headlights come on automatically. Because of this, they get alot of wear. Are they getting dimmer with wear or not? How often should I change the headlights .
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So my dads truck is a 87 2.2 throttle body 4cyl and it cuts out and dies while accelerating and I have no clue what is going on we are thinking bad fuel filter or starving for air....
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I have a 98 chevy truck and shortly after the mechanic put brakes on my truck, when I start it you cannot get it out of park. In fact sometimes when I can't get it out of park when I shut it off I have trouble removing the key from the ignition. I've found that when I want to start it I turn the key one notch put the truck in neutral and continue starting. At this point all works correct.
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My 1970 chevy c10 pickup is a 350 with automatic transmission 2wd. It doesn't get driven frequently and when I do the first time I put it into gear, fwd or reverse, it is slow to engage. Shortly after it has warmed up however, this problem goes away. What this sounds like?
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A friend is stumped by a problem with his truck, so I thought I might get some insight here. I haven't actually seen the truck, all that follows is from what he described, I'm just the messenger here.
The truck had been running fine on a used engine installed about six months ago. Then he ran it out of gas, it hasn't run properly since. It cranks fine, but won't start. He says it WILL start when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body, but only while the starting fluid is supplied. He also says he disconnected the fuel line somewhere near the engine, cranked the engine, and got good fuel supply (but no fuel pressure gauge reading). He's done some logical things: new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. No luck. Figuring that he'd sucked something ugly into the injectors, he decided to replace those with no change (yes, I cautioned him about throwing expensive parts at it with no clear reason).
He reasons that he must be getting spark based on the engine running with starter fluid, and there must be fuel based on his test with the open fuel line, so he thinks it's an electronic problem, presumably the signal to the injectors. This is out of my league...and my friend is a carpenter, not a mechanic. If he could get a scanner would this kind of problem register a code?
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So I was driving down highway when I lost power. Engine was still running just had no power and would blow black smoke when I got on the accelerator. I pulled the EGR valve and noticed it had rocks stuck keeping the valve open. Cleaned it all up and put it back in. Went for test drive and seemed good again until few miles in same problem. Took it apart again and same thing.. rocks. I did this 3 times with same results...rocks getting stuck in my valve.
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The truck is a 2002 F450 7.3 diesel with about 120k Miles.
While driving from 45-70Mph the truck engine stops for about 1 second and starts back up by itself. I thought the problem was the cps so I replaced it with a ford CPS. Today the problem still persists. The truck engine turns off and comes back on, the tach drops to 0 rpm and so does the speed.
The Check Engine Light comes on and so does the water in fuel light and so does the Check Gage light. After I turn off the truck and start it back up the truck does not show the lights.
I believe I found the issue, but can't look into it today. While I was moving some of the wires on the truck I found out that if I move the red/black bunch just a little bit the truck shuts off and comes back on when i let it go.
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